GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3

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qorax

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Q, that was an awesome video, felt like I was there with you!! Your videos have become so "professional"!! Do you have your own camera man/producer at your side? LOL!! What build was in that Spheroid rocked on the Paps v4? Was really producing lots of vapor with short draws!! I dont have the v4 as of yet but I cant seem to get that much vapor out of my spheroids but flavor is awesome!! I use them in microsticks and on a Piccoloid!!
Very nice my man, where is our next trip!
Hi Zee, thanks for those appreciative words dear! Ah cameraman, my 12yr old daughter ;) and the rest is me. And yes, I get sufficient vapor out of my Spheroid V4s. Much more than their earlier iterations. My builds are usually around 1.2 Ohms, same was in that video. I just replied yesterday to someone's Youtube comment re: the V4 ~ "+Colin Benfield : The V4 actually is many-folds better (and worth our interest) over its earlier iterations, including the V3. juice capacity, airflow, ease of build, easy refilling, simplified maintenance, hybridizability, name engraving etc. are a few worthy considerations for this version."
Qorax was big pimpin in that one! Love it! I need to go back there. I live 20 minutes away and do not go there enough.
Thanks dear! It's an hour away from me too, 80 Kms, pretty close. Thus we visit frequently. Next time we should meetup and have a vape-chat.
 

MsLoud

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Hate to throw out a blast from the past with all the new gorgeous offerings that are out now but...
I've been looking for the best cargo tank out there for my Sophias. I have been given an opportunity from the sweetest person to finally have my Unicorn and I need a splendid topper for her! I love the look of the SnP - in my research I saw whispers about a Titanium version but have not ran across one for sale. Were they never made?
Also, if anyone has a P3 ProVari - which version SnP would you recommend? 22, 23 short caps, long caps? I would just buy the 22/23 complete v2 set with both size caps but being as they are in the Outlet now and sold out, I guess I'll need to stalk the classes!

I just need to get prepared and know what to look for if anyone can help!

Thanks!
 

perseas

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Hate to throw out a blast from the past with all the new gorgeous offerings that are out now but...
I've been looking for the best cargo tank out there for my Sophias. I have been given an opportunity from the sweetest person to finally have my Unicorn and I need a splendid topper for her! I love the look of the SnP - in my research I saw whispers about a Titanium version but have not ran across one for sale. Were they never made?
Also, if anyone has a P3 ProVari - which version SnP would you recommend? 22, 23 short caps, long caps? I would just buy the 22/23 complete v2 set with both size caps but being as they are in the Outlet now and sold out, I guess I'll need to stalk the classes!

I just need to get prepared and know what to look for if anyone can help!

Thanks!

The 23 mm version of the SnP will be larger by 0,07 mm from each side, while the 22 mm version will be smaller by 0,43 mm from each side. The SS version looks better in 22 mm in my opinion. The Ti version unfortunately didn't come out, because we discontinued the product.
 

perseas

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Regarding the requested black PTFE (teflon) drip tips.

image001.jpg


We're trying to find black or coloured teflon rods 2 weeks now, but no luck. Below is a conversation we had with the PAR Group in UK about it. All the companies we approached have given us the same answers.

- We can supply this material, but is does not have food approvals.
The natural/white virgin un-filled material has food approvals.

- Thank you, Wayne,
How about pigmented teflon without filler with food approvals?
The colour is needed for aesthetic purposes.

- Sorry no there isn’t a pigmented ptfe with food approvals.
It would need to be virgin natural/white.


So, we shall stay with the white ones, but if someone has a source for coloured PTFE with food grade specs, I'll be glad to check it out.
 

Junny89

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Sorry not sure if I'm posting in the right section lol
Been a long time user of the v3 spheroid, and have to bow down to perseas for the v4. What a beauty!!!
I just wanted to ask, after weeks of beautiful vapour, i just get lots of dry hits now. I don't understand what's different to my previous builds. Every drag is just dry. Checked the cotton, it's all good aswell. Just not sure about when you put the metal piece back on.
I follow Qorax tutorials :)

Any suggestions please?

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perseas

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Sorry not sure if I'm posting in the right section lol
Been a long time user of the v3 spheroid, and have to bow down to perseas for the v4. What a beauty!!!
I just wanted to ask, after weeks of beautiful vapour, i just get lots of dry hits now. I don't understand what's different to my previous builds. Every drag is just dry. Checked the cotton, it's all good aswell. Just not sure about when you put the metal piece back on.
I follow Qorax tutorials :)

Any suggestions please?

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Hello Junny,

Every section here is right , no worries :)

I suppose you use it without any filler inside. The chamber lid, the topper is placed with the 2 slots at their shortest distance from the side of the coil and you cut the wick as close you can to them. The density of the cotton has to be average, not too thick and you'll be fine. The topper is used with builds without fluff. If you put fluff around the bell, you don't need the topper, you have to check the density and the length of the fluff though to avoid dry hits.
 
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qorax

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Sorry not sure if I'm posting in the right section lol
Been a long time user of the v3 spheroid, and have to bow down to perseas for the v4. What a beauty!!!
I just wanted to ask, after weeks of beautiful vapour, i just get lots of dry hits now. I don't understand what's different to my previous builds. Every drag is just dry. Checked the cotton, it's all good aswell. Just not sure about when you put the metal piece back on.
I follow Qorax tutorials :)

Any suggestions please?

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Dry hits suggest that there's a 'feeding' problem, right? And that problem could arise due to one single factor ~ the setup is being choked. Which could occur at:

1) Inside the coil: Too much wicking material. Which could block the smooth flow of juice thru the coil.
2) Around the wick slots of the chamber cup: Too much wicking material there (if not inside the coil) will create a bottleneck.

I believe, for some reason, during your subsequent builds you are inserting more wicking material. Pls try and revisit that aspect. Take extra precaution in keeping a minimal amount of wick tails passing thru the two wick slots of the chamber cup.

There is one more factor which gives dry hits. It's not usually the case nowadays, since we have all become matured rebuilders, but occurs nonetheless infrequently. It is "too little wick" in the coil. This especially happens with rayon, b'coz rayon shrinks when moist. And if the wick doesn't make proper contact with the coil ~ there'd be dry burns ~ which'd obviously be a lousy vape.
 

Junny89

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Hello Junny,

Every section here is right , no worries :)

I suppose you use it without any filler inside. The chamber lid, the topper is placed with the 2 slots at their shortest distance from the side of the coil and you cut the wick as close you can to them. The density of the cotton has to be average, not too thick and you'll be fine. The topper is used with builds without fluff. If you put fluff around the bell, you don't need the topper, you have to check the density and the length of the fluff though to avoid dry hits.
So you put the cap on towards the coil right? That's what I'm doing...
Dry hits suggest that there's a 'feeding' problem, right? And that problem could arise due to one single factor ~ the setup is being choked. Which could occur at:

1) Inside the coil: Too much wicking material. Which could block the smooth flow of juice thru the coil.
2) Around the wick slots of the chamber cup: Too much wicking material there (if not inside the coil) will create a bottleneck.

I believe, for some reason, during your subsequent builds you are inserting more wicking material. Pls try and revisit that aspect. Take extra precaution in keeping a minimal amount of wick tails passing thru the two wick slots of the chamber cup.

There is one more factor which gives dry hits. It's not usually the case nowadays, since we have all become matured rebuilders, but occurs nonetheless infrequently. It is "too little wick" in the coil. This especially happens with rayon, b'coz rayon shrinks when moist. And if the wick doesn't make proper contact with the coil ~ there'd be dry burns ~ which'd obviously be a lousy vape.
Awesome thank you for both responses!
I've tried different amount of cotton at the ends, stil no luck?
However how do you place the little bit of overflowing cotton? Spread them out? Or push back in the middle?
Yup im using no filler material.

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Junny89

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Take a closer look at the topper's slots when it is seated around the posts, before you put the cotton and you'll notice that the quantity of the required cotton is trivial, if you put more it will choke the wicking, less is more :D
Ahh i see so it's just better to thin the edges out.
I'll try that then and see how it goes. Many thanks!
Also do you have the hybrid adaptor in stock for picolo?

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qorax

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Ahh i see so it's just better to thin the edges out.
I'll try that then and see how it goes. Many thanks!
Also do you have the hybrid adaptor in stock for picolo?

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For some reason I never have wicking issues with the Spheroid V4 (didn't have any with it's earlier versions as well). I usually cut it close to the deck's boundary, which makes the wick tails ever so slightly peeking out of the Chamber Cup's wick slots into the juice holding tank.

I have also tried keeping the tails a li'l longer, li'l more protruding outwards into the tank ~ no issues. Similarly I have also cut it close to the coil ends, making the wick tails sit inside the chamber cup completely ~ no issues with that as well.

The only factor we need to keep under consideration is that (besides choking the insides of the coil) while placing the chamber cup - ensure that it is:
1. Not pressing down the wick tails and creating a blockage,
2. The tail ends are not super tight fit within the wick slots.

Slight thinning, if need be, or flaring them out (if the ends are dense) is wise.
 

perseas

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Ahh i see so it's just better to thin the edges out.
I'll try that then and see how it goes. Many thanks!
Also do you have the hybrid adaptor in stock for picolo?

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Captain Stan covered everything, I haven't anything to add and yes, the GPin adapter is in stock.
 

Fyla

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... if you put more it will choke the wicking, less is more :D

This. My findings as well (started with to much cotton (KGD) with first builds). You just need to find out the proper length of wick. At cup walls should be perfect. And when you put cup on, just slightly spread cotton around wick hole with toothpick or something similar. Just dont stuck the cotton. Spread it gently
 

Junny89

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Ahh i see. I got it now, I beleive too much cotton in the wick holes. I need to trim slightly and flare them. As right now i think they are tightly packed.

Also awesome review Qorax, ive been a few times to Niagra Falls and its amazing. You should go during December time, lots of Christmas displays and stuff with lights. Looks so beautiful!

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