GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3
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You're a part of this story too with your artistic photos, comments, and most with your presence. Life is fun as Cucco says 
As you can see in my signature photo, I have a few "other" devices by "other" modders.
But out of all of them my #1 favorite mod is this. I use her mostly in her SS tube, but she looks great in this too. Every atomizer performs better than any other (even better than on my one reg box). If I had to get rid of all but 1 it would be my PAPs 2.5 with the 3.0 top cap. THE best for my needs by far.
But out of all of them my #1 favorite mod is this. I use her mostly in her SS tube, but she looks great in this too. Every atomizer performs better than any other (even better than on my one reg box). If I had to get rid of all but 1 it would be my PAPs 2.5 with the 3.0 top cap. THE best for my needs by far.
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Cucco! I heard you travelling through the posts like dancing steps approaching to the current date, it is surreal
Much love to you!
Hello my dear friend! I got a bit behind. I have been a little busy. One of my very elderly cats, had a stroke-like incident. And then, something else on top of that. The vets were ready to count her out. I knew she wasn't ready to leave me yet. My kids tell me these things. Lots of love, and she is back to walking, talking and eating again. The vets are shocked. I'm not. I knew she was going to do it. Her gait is a little off, but so is mine since my stroke. It's all good.
Much love to you, and the rest of my GP Family.
BTW: Have I mentioned lately, how much I love my Xs?
Hello my dear friend! I got a bit behind. I have been a little busy. One of my very elderly cats, had a stroke-like incident. And then, something else on top of that. The vets were ready to count her out. I knew she wasn't ready to leave me yet. My kids tell me these things. Lots of love, and she is back to walking, talking and eating again. The vets are shocked. I'm not. I knew she was going to do it. Her gait is a little off, but so is mine since my stroke. It's all good.
Much love to you, and the rest of my GP Family.
BTW: Have I mentioned lately, how much I love my Xs?
Another life miracle for the blind sciontists (no typo here), I am glad she made it with your love, the ultimate medicine! Did you take a look at Spooky2? I use 2 generators the past 6 months and it works for anything I can imagine, infections, colds, moods, pains, bugs, etc.
Got my Heron in! For the life of me I can't get the screw out of the negative post though so I'm out of luck with my first build for awhile.
Got the pliers out and that's the only way I could get it out. Now it's kind of marred and jaggedy, hope there's some spare posts for sale
edit after first build: Master P, this is great stuff! the taste and throat hit is quite excellent in my first fluffless build. I may have to adjust my wick though as I'm getting some dry hits. I suspect I have too much cotton in there (I didn't want to flood it).
Definitely worth the wait!
I only have one small concern: if my build floods (which happens occasionally if I don't get my wick right) or there's condensation, the only option I have for clearing it is blowing the liquid out of the Heron's air hole because I can't remove the gpin/insulator without destroying my coil.
I'll probably need to make some adjustments to accommodate ... like rebuilding the coil more often instead of the regular wiping of the inner chamber.
Got the pliers out and that's the only way I could get it out. Now it's kind of marred and jaggedy, hope there's some spare posts for sale
edit after first build: Master P, this is great stuff! the taste and throat hit is quite excellent in my first fluffless build. I may have to adjust my wick though as I'm getting some dry hits. I suspect I have too much cotton in there (I didn't want to flood it).
Definitely worth the wait!
I only have one small concern: if my build floods (which happens occasionally if I don't get my wick right) or there's condensation, the only option I have for clearing it is blowing the liquid out of the Heron's air hole because I can't remove the gpin/insulator without destroying my coil.
I'll probably need to make some adjustments to accommodate ... like rebuilding the coil more often instead of the regular wiping of the inner chamber.
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You could remove the tank since you don't need to drain to get access to the coil, then blow through the air hole and have the excess juice go into the chamber. Fire it a couple times upside down to burn off extra juice, put tank back on and go.
Got my Heron in! For the life of me I can't get the screw out of the negative post though so I'm out of luck with my first build for awhile.
Got the pliers out and that's the only way I could get it out. Now it's kind of marred and jaggedy, hope there's some spare posts for sale
edit after first build: Master P, this is great stuff! the taste and throat hit is quite excellent in my first fluffless build. I may have to adjust my wick though as I'm getting some dry hits. I suspect I have too much cotton in there (I didn't want to flood it).
Definitely worth the wait!
I only have one small concern: if my build floods (which happens occasionally if I don't get my wick right) or there's condensation, the only option I have for clearing it is blowing the liquid out of the Heron's air hole because I can't remove the gpin/insulator without destroying my coil.
I'll probably need to make some adjustments to accommodate ... like rebuilding the coil more often instead of the regular wiping of the inner chamber.
The disassembling of Heron v2 is similar to Spheroid v4 regarding the posts and the housing internals. In a case of a tight post, I pinched it with a rubber band and I unscrewed it easily with a quick flick of the screwdriver.
If you have dry hits, the answer is : LESS IS MORE. Put a medium amount of cotton and remove any excess fibres if you have dry hits. I believe that after a week or so, you'll enjoy even more this new atomizer.
We haven't put spare negative posts at the store yet, but if you want any, send us an email from next week.
Thank you very much for the feedback
Thanks, P! I think I've got my fluffless build working about as well as I'm going to and it's a very nice vape (once my coil is a bit seasoned). I had to find the balance between too much wick and too little wick as I've experienced both flooding and dry hits. I'm still using a slightly tight draw for comparison's sake but I like the option of being able to open it up even though I prefer mouth-to-lung vaping. I haven't owned a 1.5 so going from a v1 to v2 is an even bigger step up than normal.
I need to remember to turn the tank upside-down when removing. I've spilled out the entire contents of my tank several times by mistake!
I'm going to run this build for a few days the go with the fluff. How long is the shaft inside the bell? (so I can gauge my fluff width)
Has anyone done a fluff build that can say whether the new bell needs approximately more/less/the same length of fluff as the previous Heron? I'm not opposed to figuring it out from scratch but a starting point may make things a bit easier ;-)
btw, I was positive I was going to prefer the old SS Heron drip tip but these Teflon tips are quite nice!
I think I've got my fluffless build working about as well as I'm going to and it's a very nice vape (once my coil is a bit seasoned). I had to find the balance between too much wick and too little wick as I've experienced both flooding and dry hits. I'm still using a slightly tight draw for comparison's sake but I like the option of being able to open it up even though I prefer mouth-to-lung vaping. I haven't owned a 1.5 so going from a v1 to v2 is an even bigger step up than normal.I need to remember to turn the tank upside-down when removing. I've spilled out the entire contents of my tank several times by mistake!
I'm going to run this build for a few days the go with the fluff. How long is the shaft inside the bell? (so I can gauge my fluff width)
Has anyone done a fluff build that can say whether the new bell needs approximately more/less/the same length of fluff as the previous Heron? I'm not opposed to figuring it out from scratch but a starting point may make things a bit easier ;-)
btw, I was positive I was going to prefer the old SS Heron drip tip but these Teflon tips are quite nice!
If it helps anyone, I'm using the Heron v2 with the shortest of the gpins and my paps v4.
It auto-fires with the new AW18650s but instead of using the short switch screw the taller delrin switch spacer works fine for me and now works perfectly with all my VTC4/5, efest, and AW batteries
It auto-fires with the new AW18650s but instead of using the short switch screw the taller delrin switch spacer works fine for me and now works perfectly with all my VTC4/5, efest, and AW batteries
Thanks, P!
I need to remember to turn the tank upside-down when removing. I've spilled out the entire contents of my tank several times by mistake!
I'm going to run this build for a few days the go with the fluff. How long is the shaft inside the bell? (so I can gauge my fluff width)
Has anyone done a fluff build that can say whether the new bell needs approximately more/less/the same length of fluff as the previous Heron? I'm not opposed to figuring it out from scratch but a starting point may make things a bit easier ;-)
btw, I was positive I was going to prefer the old SS Heron drip tip but these Teflon tips are quite nice!
You need more fluff, we have increased the internal diameter of the tube. The length is depending on the viscosity of your liquid. You need to laid it out evenly as before, with a medium density without gaps.
This seems to have been the culprit I just noticed the same problem with misfires, disssembled and the square nut was backed into a snug position!! Can constantly turning the switch, move the square nut back into the housing?? Or do I have something still going on with my assembly? I just backed the square nut out a complete 2 turns and it is working fine! Comments?Hello buddy
I have the same question with Sedge, have you cleaned recently? Remember during assembling NOT to screw the square locking nut all the way down, leave 0,5-1 mm protruding off the switch housing (1-2 threads), before you place the button and the negative post.
Thanks
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You do it just once during assembling, to give enough space for the locking function to work properly.
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