GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3

[anavidfan]

I seem to have the same thing happening to my X's. Used to be something I had to do once a month or so. Now I have to take my switches apart a couple times a week and preposition the square nut.

I use mine a LOT. Could the delrin insulator be worn or misshapen after so much use?

 

[perseas]

I seem to have the same thing happening to my X's. Used to be something I had to do once a month or so. Now I have to take my switches apart a couple times a week and preposition the square nut.

I use mine a LOT. Could the delrin insulator be worn or misshapen after so much use?

No, I assume you need to extend a bit your spring to hold its position, or replace it with one of the spares.

 

[anavidfan]

Thanks, will try the spring. I do like the softer one, maybe it gets compressed from all the use.... I will give that a try.

 

[Spydro]

Been forever, but came by to wish you all a great holidays and happy new year.

I'm not going to hang out here, but will stop by again sometime maybe.

Cheers

 

[stillnotsmoking]

I am having nothing but trouble from heron v2 I have watched qorax video and built and wicked this thing at least 2 dozen times and it's either dry hits or flooding no matter what I do. What's the secret?!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Firestorm]

I don't know what the secret is, but I've been thoroughly enjoying my Heron v2 without any problems. Like in my Spheroid v4s, I've been using a 2mm microcoil with KGD in my Heron v2 - I feel like with this size coil that the KGD wick is the perfect diameter to block the holes in the topper without strangling it. I cut my wicks at the deck, juice them, and then carefully get them to protrude through the holes in the topper before I press fit it down. I've gone through a few tanks full of juice since receiving it on Friday morning and it's been great so far. Aesthetically I like it better than the GP Heron v1.x (I like that it's shorter and I love the look of the stock bell and sometime soon I'll take pictures of the experimental bell which is also very nice).

 

[qorax]

I am having nothing but trouble from heron v2 I have watched qorax video and built and wicked this thing at least 2 dozen times and it's either dry hits or flooding no matter what I do. What's the secret?!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Brother, pls ensure the following few aspects:

1. Build a coil no more than 3mm in diameter. Between 2mm to 2.5mm is the best.
2. If using rayon, then tight fit the wick into the coil. If using ... Cotton, let it move smoothly in the coil.
3. With either of the materials above - do not tight block the wick slots of the Chamber cup (topper).
4. If using high VG ~ flare out the wick ends at the slots.
5. Do not let the coil touch either of) the posts. Double ensure that.
6. Ditto for the coil and the base's airhole. Maintain between 1.2-1.5mm gap.
7. While clicking in the Chamber Cup - ensure that it doesn't smother (trap in) the wick tails.
8. The Chamber ring must be fully thereaded in tight. Else, there'd be a gap between the bell and the tank.
9. While press fitting the 'filled' tank - ensure that the AFC is "open".
10. Do not over saturate the wick while test firing. Let it be slightly dry - to soak in when the tank is put on.

As stated by @Firestorm above - I too have nothing but success and good vibes for this amazing atty.

 

[stillnotsmoking]

I seem to have better luck if I push the tails back inside the slots a bit after assembky, but that leads to a bit of gurgling. I guess I will just have to keep at it :/

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[anavidfan]

No, I assume you need to extend a bit your spring to hold its position, or replace it with one of the spares.

I replaced my spring with one that is stiffer and so far it seems to be performing better. I will see how it goes before I have to re-assemble.

I love my X's.

 

[hobbes4]

I'm not getting dry hits or flooding but i'm not getting the same smooth/dense vape i get from my Spheriod V4 either. On the Heron V2, i'm getting more crackling and popping, and vape seems thinner. Same coil in both, 8/7 wraps 2mm id 28g kanthal wicked with Rayon. I think i was just too excited and rushed it on my first attempt. Will take more time with it tonight.

 

[perseas]

I'm not getting dry hits or flooding but i'm not getting the same smooth/dense vape i get from my Spheriod V4 either. On the Heron V2, i'm getting more crackling and popping, and vape seems thinner. Same coil in both, 8/7 wraps 2mm id 28g kanthal wicked with Rayon. I think i was just too excited and rushed it on my first attempt. Will take more time with it tonight.

The Spheroid has a smaller chamber, so for a similar result you need a lower resistance or a build with fluff and cotton & without the topper - the latter is my personal preference for all versions of Spheroids and Herons. I haven't found yet a tank system that can beat the Spheroid principle (fluff) in flavour delivery and vapour density for my favourite GVC

 

[anavidfan]

I'm not getting dry hits or flooding but i'm not getting the same smooth/dense vape i get from my Spheriod V4 either. On the Heron V2, i'm getting more crackling and popping, and vape seems thinner. Same coil in both, 8/7 wraps 2mm id 28g kanthal wicked with Rayon. I think i was just too excited and rushed it on my first attempt. Will take more time with it tonight.

Ive found that this is common with atomizers that have same design but larger capacity.

The difference in diameter affects the way the liquid is vaporized a lot. I will usually lower my resistance on the larger one to get the same experience.

ITs happened when I get the larger one first and have that build just right, then do the same on the slimmer one and vape feels warmer and stronger.

Vise versa on slim atomizer to the larger version. Same build you are used to on the slim one seems kinda "meh" on the larger version. I lower my resistance and then I will usually love it the same.

I tend to do my slim atties at around 1.0 to 1.2 resistances and my larger ones at about .80 ish. You might try either a bit smaller diameter coil combined with a lower resistance build.

Not having the new Heron or the Spheroid V4 I cant say for sure but try playing with your build.

 

[anavidfan]

Sorry Mr P, guess we had similar thoughts at the same time...

 

[perseas]

I seem to have better luck if I push the tails back inside the slots a bit after assembky, but that leads to a bit of gurgling. I guess I will just have to keep at it :/

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Play with the density of your wick plus the suggestions of Firestorm and Qorax, and keep the tails out of the chamber.

 

[perseas]

Sorry Mr P, guess we had similar thoughts at the same time...

Great minds think alike

Forum rule: every question deserves at least 2 answers (learning by repetition)!

 

[perseas]

Been forever, but came by to wish you all a great holidays and happy new year.

I'm not going to hang out here, but will stop by again sometime maybe.

Cheers

Spydro!
I was thinking about you yesterday evening and you came!
My kind friend, I wish you a happy new year and all the best

 

[cliffy15]

My impressions of the Heron v2.

Let me get this out of the way. I'm a huge Heron fan. It is the only atty I use all-day, everyday, so I may be biased towards this product although I do buy other atties from time to time just to try something new and I still use drippers when I want to do multiple-coil/sub-ohm builds. It has been my mainstay from release day (still have #23 going strong!).

So I've been playing with several different builds since I received it three days ago and today has been the first day that I haven't brought another paps/Heron v1 with me to fall back on, if necessary.

Kudos to all those who love their fluffless builds (I DO like having that option). First off, I spent most of the time fiddling with the fluffless build/topper to get it just right. It took me two days (and a lot of eliquid) to decide that this just wasn't the direction I wanted to go in. Using it in the fluffless/standardRTA style build reminded me why I gave up all my other RTAs (from rebuilding clearos, to carto-shaped RTAs):

• There's a fine line between having too much wick (dry hits) and too little wick (flooding) and that changes with other factors (below).
• Can't blow out floods without removing the tank and/or closing the juice flow control (n/a on the Heron)
• Susceptibility to air pressure changes/temperature swings/vacuum in tank (I typically go from 65F to 90F during the course of an average day and it definitely affects the viscosity of my 50/50 liquid)

Thus ... I went back to the fluff. THE fluff. THE FLUFF.

Everyone is familiar with the fluff. I don't have to explain it. The Heron and the fluff just works and works well.

For anyone curious, I used a 18mm x 80mm size fluff in my Heron v1 with great success with my 50/50 liquid. In my Heron v2 I am using a 18mm x 110mm sized piece of fluff and it seems to be working quite well for the last 24 hours or so. I'll be giving it a couple of more days to evaluate but I don't think I will need to adjust those dimensions.

So if the Heron works well in both incarnations, why would I need to buy a new one? Well ... here are the things I like better:

• It's shorter. (I didn't like the height of the v1 with an 18650 so I used 18490 with it exclusively. Now the shorter Heron with the shorter teflon tip and 18650 battery is only a little bit taller than that)
• It's bigger. More capacity! Even the bell cap has a bit of capacity (which is why I didn't change the width of my fluff dimensions)
• Teflon tip. I didn't think I'd like this at all. But I do! Sure, you can buy one without the included Heron but why would you? I have a preference for small-bored tips. It gives me better flavor than wide/wide-open tips.
• Airflow is better than the v1. I typically vape mouth-to-lung but I like having the ability to open it up a lot more than what I have it set at now.
• I much prefer the coil being to the side, rather than between, the build posts.
• I like the tried-and-true single-loop method to wicking my coil and using the wick tails to dip onto the deck/well so sop up any flooding or condensation that might occur. I have a picture where you can see the general direction of my juice flow as my looped end is clean and my tail end seems to be darker from the unvaporized parts of my eliquid flowing away.

All these things make the Heron even more satisfying to use.

There is one thing that is different but can't decide if which version is better:

• I like the way that the positive post pops out. However, this also means that I can't just remove the insulator to wipe any flooding or condensation that might be inside the inner chamber without replacing the coil (and I dislike brand new coils).

There is one thing I would like:

• The option for a cotton topper (similar to the previous Heron) with a hole on the top. It would hold my floppy wick better. *grin* It helps safeguard accidental flooding (I overfill sometimes - especially when I drink). It also helps preserve the fluff from the brown stuff that spits out from the coil. I can literally go for months on the same piece of fluff on my Heron v1 (with topper) unless I change flavors.

I've been trying to think of a way to plug up the side holes of the topper cap that came with my Heron v2 and drill a hole on top but couldn't come up with anything elegant. Maybe I have to figure a way to spring load a piece of wire on the deck ring to hold the wick in the exact position I want.
​

Am I really one of a few that actually LIKE the cotton topper?

...

Master P, I'm loving this new atty and it was worth the wait to get it! =D

Here's that pick. Yes, that's a loop even if it's a like too long. It's okay, I guess as I've rested it along the deck ring.

and here's another pic before priming because the last pic made me realize I had one too many turns of the coil (this one is a bit ugly as well because of a small gap in the coil) but I rebuilt this without the aid of my glasses so I will have to correct later.

 

[hobbes4]

Maybe try resting both sides so you get fresh juice to each side of the wick. The left side is only getting back flow juice from the coil.

 

[cliffy15]

Maybe try resting both sides so you get fresh juice to each side of the wick. The left side is only getting back flow juice from the coil.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try it in the future but historically this is the same build I use in the V1 and it seems to work fine with only the looped end in contact with the fluff. I'm starting to think the tail-down method helps keep the coil/wick lasting longer. I can go anywhere from 4-6 days without rewicking (depending on how much I vape) and over 4 weeks with the same coil (I do dry-burn on rewick).

 

[perseas]

My impressions of the Heron v2.

Let me get this out of the way. I'm a huge Heron fan. It is the only atty I use all-day, everyday, so I may be biased towards this product although I do buy other atties from time to time just to try something new and I still use drippers when I want to do multiple-coil/sub-ohm builds. It has been my mainstay from release day (still have #23 going strong!).

So I've been playing with several different builds since I received it three days ago and today has been the first day that I haven't brought another paps/Heron v1 with me to fall back on, if necessary.

Kudos to all those who love their fluffless builds (I DO like having that option). First off, I spent most of the time fiddling with the fluffless build/topper to get it just right. It took me two days (and a lot of eliquid) to decide that this just wasn't the direction I wanted to go in. Using it in the fluffless/standardRTA style build reminded me why I gave up all my other RTAs (from rebuilding clearos, to carto-shaped RTAs):

• There's a fine line between having too much wick (dry hits) and too little wick (flooding) and that changes with other factors (below).
• Can't blow out floods without removing the tank and/or closing the juice flow control (n/a on the Heron)
• Susceptibility to air pressure changes/temperature swings/vacuum in tank (I typically go from 65F to 90F during the course of an average day and it definitely affects the viscosity of my 50/50 liquid)

Thus ... I went back to the fluff. THE fluff. THE FLUFF.

Everyone is familiar with the fluff. I don't have to explain it. The Heron and the fluff just works and works well.

For anyone curious, I used a 18mm x 80mm size fluff in my Heron v1 with great success with my 50/50 liquid. In my Heron v2 I am using a 18mm x 110mm sized piece of fluff and it seems to be working quite well for the last 24 hours or so. I'll be giving it a couple of more days to evaluate but I don't think I will need to adjust those dimensions.

So if the Heron works well in both incarnations, why would I need to buy a new one? Well ... here are the things I like better:

• It's shorter. (I didn't like the height of the v1 with an 18650 so I used 18490 with it exclusively. Now the shorter Heron with the shorter teflon tip and 18650 battery is only a little bit taller than that)
• It's bigger. More capacity! Even the bell cap has a bit of capacity (which is why I didn't change the width of my fluff dimensions)
• Teflon tip. I didn't think I'd like this at all. But I do! Sure, you can buy one without the included Heron but why would you? I have a preference for small-bored tips. It gives me better flavor than wide/wide-open tips.
• Airflow is better than the v1. I typically vape mouth-to-lung but I like having the ability to open it up a lot more than what I have it set at now.
• I much prefer the coil being to the side, rather than between, the build posts.
• I like the tried-and-true single-loop method to wicking my coil and using the wick tails to dip onto the deck/well so sop up any flooding or condensation that might occur. I have a picture where you can see the general direction of my juice flow as my looped end is clean and my tail end seems to be darker from the unvaporized parts of my eliquid flowing away.

All these things make the Heron even more satisfying to use.

There is one thing that is different but can't decide if which version is better:

• I like the way that the positive post pops out. However, this also means that I can't just remove the insulator to wipe any flooding or condensation that might be inside the inner chamber without replacing the coil (and I dislike brand new coils).

There is one thing I would like:

• The option for a cotton topper (similar to the previous Heron) with a hole on the top. It would hold my floppy wick better. *grin* It helps safeguard accidental flooding (I overfill sometimes - especially when I drink). It also helps preserve the fluff from the brown stuff that spits out from the coil. I can literally go for months on the same piece of fluff on my Heron v1 (with topper) unless I change flavors.

I've been trying to think of a way to plug up the side holes of the topper cap that came with my Heron v2 and drill a hole on top but couldn't come up with anything elegant. Maybe I have to figure a way to spring load a piece of wire on the deck ring to hold the wick in the exact position I want.
​

Am I really one of a few that actually LIKE the cotton topper?

...

Master P, I'm loving this new atty and it was worth the wait to get it! =D

Here's that pick. Yes, that's a loop even if it's a like too long. It's okay, I guess as I've rested it along the deck ring.

I am totally with you about the fluff and regarding an optional cotton topper for fluff builds with one top hole, it's something I try to convince George, since we made the new topper, for the exact same reasons you described so well

"The option for a cotton topper (similar to the previous Heron) with a hole on the top. It would hold my floppy wick better. *grin* It helps safeguard accidental flooding (I overfill sometimes - especially when I drink). It also helps preserve the fluff from the brown stuff that spits out from the coil. I can literally go for months on the same piece of fluff on my Heron v1 (with topper) unless I change flavors."