Hcigar HB DNA 40 anticipation thread

[Technonut]

I wouldn't. At least the hcigar has magnets for battery swaps.

To each their own.. I would take the 1 year in USA warranty (6 months for S.I units) the V3 Pack dna 40 offers over the HB's any day. Magnets be damned. At the suggested retail price, the HB is still a great deal! (When finally corrected)

EDIT: Perhaps not as good as I thought.. With some digging, I found:

HANA MODZ dna 40 devices
carry a One-Year Warranty

HANA MODZ DNA 30 devices
carry a 90 Day Warranty

HANA MODZ (S.I.) Units: (I assume the "S.I." = Sent-In for exchange / refund, which the blems are)

DNA 40 (S.I) units carry a 6 month warranty.
DNA 30 (S.I.) units carry a 3 month warranty

6 month in-USA warranty still isn't bad @ $149.00 IMO though..

Sorry for veering Vapenstein..

 

[Woofer]

FWIW to anyone thinking about the small screen DNA40, I have both and donèt find the larger screen to be much benefit over the small screen.

 

[Vapenstein]

FWIW to anyone thinking about the small screen DNA40, I have both and donèt find the larger screen to be much benefit over the small screen.

wait til you're pushing 50 and need your reading glasses to make out the 0.69" display
actually most of that is due to the smoked plastic

 

[Cotay]

FWIW to anyone thinking about the small screen DNA40, I have both and donèt find the larger screen to be much benefit over the small screen.

I too prefer the large screen, but at $40 cheaper it's hard to argue with the small screen version if price is important.

 

[retird]

To each their own.. I would take the 1 year in USA warranty (6 months for S.I units) the V3 Pack DNA 40 offers over the HB's any day. Magnets be damned. At the suggested retail price, the HB is still a great deal! (When finally corrected)

Agree.... and for a few dollars over the Hcigar you have access to Hana's update services in the US in addition to the 1 year warranty service in the US (mod specific warranty length depends on the mod)..... https://www.hanamodz.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=69 ... note shipping... example..... https://www.hanamodz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69&products_id=188

 

[Woofer]

wait til you're pushing 50 and need your reading glasses to make out the 0.69" display
actually most of that is due to the smoked plastic

Pushed 50 sometime ago
Truth be told I do not look at the screen much anyway.

 

[retird]

Pushed 50 sometime ago
Truth be told I do not look at the screen much anyway.

I vaguely remember 50... lol

 

[jchisholm]

Some of this is over my head and this is why I'm going to start building a DIY mod, need to learn a lot of this.

According to the evolv wiring diagram there is only one ground on the board and everything else is grounded internally?

I've built a few of them, there's a chassis ground to the atty, a battery negative connection and paired with that a negative connection for the USB charge board
which oddly enough didn't appear to be in use in your video (unless it's just tacked on with the common battery negative point.
So yes only one main chassis ground off the board separate from the battery negative. The output is a negative voltage.

 

[Ian444]

This is my simplified understanding of it, maybe a pic will help.

 

[Genghis]

I didn't find time to try any fix today. But I was able to purchase a spool of 18GA and the sales person cut me off a piece of 20GA testing wire. The 18GA doesn't fit into pin 12, but the 20GA does. I guess I should have known that from the DNA40 information pdf (for some reason the 18GA wire looked like it would work while I was at the store. I didn't have the HB with me to compare). So my choices are now to trim the 18GA wires down to make it fit, use the 20GA testing wire that he gave to me, or go back and purchase a spool of 20GA. 25ft spool of 18GA was about $7.25, and the 20GA was about $5.50. I'll decide on what to do tomorrow after work. Nothing like buying 25ft, when all you need are 4 inches.

Summary for those who are looking to do the ground fix. Buy either 20GA or 22GA. Don't be like me. I still have to try and dig up my old soldering iron. I think the last time I saw it was about 6-7 years ago.

 

[u8myufo]

I have just been asked by Vapegeek if I could post this pic up of their fix.The unit now works as by Evolv specs.The unit was also tested and the battery drop has been measured under load as well, they are now spot on.

 

[Rado]

Yep, my fix is exacly the same, and it works a treat

 

[Ian444]

Thanks for posting that pic u8.

That's a fairly amateur effort for a vendor.

A solid copper wire running under one side of a washer is a poor way to make a reliable contact. Also the solid copper wire is a rigid fixing point to the pcb (vs a flexible stranded copper wire for all other connections) so every jar or vibration of the mod, like every time you put the mod down on a hard surface, is going to go through this solid wire to the pcb and stress the solder joint, more than likely leading to an early failure.

 

[Technonut]

Thanks for posting that pic u8.

That's a fairly amateur effort for a vendor.

A solid copper wire running under one side of a washer is a poor way to make a reliable contact. Also the solid copper wire is a rigid fixing point to the pcb (vs a flexible stranded copper wire for all other connections) so every jar or vibration of the mod, like every time you put the mod down on a hard surface, is going to go through this solid wire to the pcb and stress the solder joint, more than likely leading to an early failure.

It's the same fix that I was originally going to do using 22 gauge wire until I wrapped my head around this:

Good job.... you have now provided a solid ground to the board and bypassed the case ground screw #1. The only case ground left is screw #2 (closest to the 510 connector) and now it only effects the connector should it become loose.

The way realbriguy did it in his pic would be the best way in that the battery negative is no longer connected to the case (by removing the battery neg wire from the lower screw). If the battery neg wire is not removed from the lower screw (case ground) its just a band-aid fix IMO and not really addressing the real issue. The reason I'm saying that is because if the atty grounding screw point (the upper screw in that pic) is not 100% good, the electrical path for the atty will be via that lower grounding screw, and you're back where you started.

Edit - sorry missed your post retird. "What he said!" then...

It will work, it's just not ideal... Like you and retird recently posted..

 

[Ian444]

It will work, it's just not ideal... Just like you and retird recently posted..

Yes I know, even how its wired standard from HB Cigar works, my comments were about how it was done, not what was done. Specifically that a round solid copper wire attached under one side of a washer is a poor way of making a connection. As opposed to rado's post where he used stranded copper wire and soldered it at both ends. I didn't enjoy pointing it out either. The DNA40's need all the help they can get as far as solid electrical connections go

So I guess you missed the wiring diagrams I posted on the previous page? I was hoping that might help clear up the grounding thing a bit, one can try

 

[Rado]

Ian444
Yes you are right
I have my unit from vapegeek, and after contacting them about the problem, they were very helpfull in every way.
They offered to do the fix for me, but i honestly cant be arsed send it back, wait for it, and so on.
I spoke with them today about your post, and what they say is" the ground on the washer will be solded to all units, this is just an example".I also mention your advice about the soft wire, and they were more than happy to take the advice
Good bunch

Edit: i have that fix since monday morning, and it seems to be holding up very nicely

 

[Technonut]

Yes I know, even how its wired standard from HB Cigar works, my comments were about how it was done, not what was done. Specifically that a round solid copper wire attached under one side of a washer is a poor way of making a connection. As opposed to rado's post where he used stranded copper wire and soldered it at both ends. I didn't enjoy pointing it out either. The DNA40's need all the help they can get as far as solid electrical connections go

So I guess you missed the wiring diagrams I posted on the previous page? I was hoping that might help clear up the grounding thing a bit, one can try

I did notice it... Nice diagrams, thanks! It's good info concerning the use of solid copper wire.. I was just throwing in the previously written explanations.

Here is a larger version of your diagrams (without needing to click), if you don't mind..

 

[Rado]

And now the advice from you.
What i did, is it safe and good? Obviously is not a neat job, but is that ok for operation?

 

[Technonut]

And now the advice from you.
What i did, is it safe and good? Obviously is not a neat job, but is that ok for operation?View attachment 415319

It will work... It's just not ideal. It would be better to run a wire from the board, directly to the battery negative. You would totally eliminate the wire from the screw to battery negative that's there now.

 

[retird]

I have just been asked by Vapegeek if I could post this pic up of their fix.The unit now works as by Evolv specs.The unit was also tested and the battery drop has been measured under load as well, they are now spot on.

I did notice it... Nice diagrams, thanks! It's good info concerning the use of solid copper wire.. I was just throwing in the previously written explanations.

Here is a larger version of your diagrams (without needing to click), if you don't mind..

It will work... It's just not ideal. It would be better to run a wire from the board, directly to the battery negative. You would totally eliminate the wire from the screw to battery negative that's there now.

Yes the "fix" applied by "Vapegeek" can work but also adds yet another contact point that can become an issue also. Why not fix it right instead of just a patch? If they are going to use this patch at least solder the copper jumper wire to the black wire thus eliminating a pressure connection at the screw...