Hcigar HB DNA 40 anticipation thread

[scaredmice]

So... I think the next major issue for this device is the "will-fail-eventually" 510 connection... Take a look at the 510 from inside the case when you screw an atomizer on, specifically one with a slotted positive pin at the end (like a Lemo).

In addition this main issue, there may be another: When I remove a Lemo, I have copper shavings all over the bottom of it. Are there different softnesses of copper? I'm not tightening this thing down really tight (not that it would matter, again, see video) ... but mostly, the 510 is spinning WITH the atomizer. I typically have enough copper shavings after unscrewing my Lemos that I need to clean them/blow them off. Unsettling in the best case...

Anyway ... 510 replacement anyone? Would a Fat Daddy 510 fit in here and work OK?

This device is turning in to one of those semi-professional R/C cars you buy... they "say" they're ready to run (RTR), but still need quite a bit of work to get up and going. Not a bad thing in the R/C world as it forces you to learn some important and vital specifics about the vehicle. In the vaping world ... well, I guess it depends on your expectations from the manufacturer. Luckily in this case, I I wasn't expecting much so I'm not terribly upset, but definitely something worth discussing. The thing looks so nice on the outside ... if it weren't for the evil, or soon-to-be evil lurking within. In other words: I would never travel long distances with this mod unless I had a backup with me. I was hoping I wouldn't have to say that about this mod.

My Fasttech's/Hotcig clon of the Hana DNA30D mod had that very same issue. It had the same 510 (in brass). And eventually it ended up with the soldering point of the red positive wire which feeds the atomizer broken, because those unexpected turns as you screw/unscrew the atomizer makes a typical case of stress fatigue.... over the soldering tin.

I put a FatDaddy 22 mm V3 long (for wood mods) connector, and solved the issue in that way, but in the Hana (and its clones) the thickness of the aluminium wall in that area forces you to discard the nut and connecting washer. As I had to clean up the entire 510 with a 10 mm draw bit, I was also forced to put a thin copper plate, curved along the inside 10 mm drilled channel, as a 'dry internal sleeve', and then screw down the connector using its M10 threads. It ended up quite well, but a carefully planning about your 'surrogate 510' would be even better....

The key, in my case, was to move away the remnants of the former crappy 510, which refused to get out by any torture means I applied. If you manage to move away the original 510 without extra drilling, perhaps it would be far easier.

 

[MidwestGuy]

So... by the time I end up getting this thing in appropriate working order, it will be about the same price as a regular high end DNA40 mod. Just a fair warning for those monitoring this thread thinking about buying one. May want to wait for version 2, as some others have suggested.

ETA for any HCigar reps: This would be a near perfect device with three simple fixes:

1. A properly wired (to specification) DNA40 with NO case grounding. Eliminate all case grounding!
2. A clear (non-smoked) screen cover.
3. A higher quality 510 connector, also wired properly (see #1).

I can't imagine any of those would add much to the price. Make it happen and you have a winner.

The device has a high end Ferrari engine, a tinted windshield, and a transmission made of duct tape.

 

[Eric Auer]

So... by the time I end up getting this thing in appropriate working order, it will be about the same price as a regular high end DNA40 mod. Just a fair warning for those monitoring this thread thinking about buying one. May want to wait for version 2, as some others have suggested.

Thanks.

Eventually I want a DNA device but for now I'll wait.

Hope you get yours fixed and that it will serve you well from then on.

Eric

 

[T4T3Z0R]

Ive already sent mine into sweet vapes to see if theyll do anything for me so i cant just look myself, but can somone get a good pic of the underside of the 510?

 

[MidwestGuy]

Ive already sent mine into sweet vapes to see if theyll do anything for me so i cant just look myself, but can somone get a good pic of the underside of the 510?

Here you go...

Spun "up" to the left side (typically after tightening an atomizer) :

Spun "down" to the right (typically after removing an atomizer) :

 

[Croak]

And that right there is why the Chinese love them some hot glue.

 

[T4T3Z0R]

Here you go...

Spun "up" to the left side (typically after tightening an atomizer) :

Spun "down" to the right (typically after removing an atomizer) :

Thanks! Trying to think of a fix that wouldnt require replacing the entire 510 but with the looks of it i dont see how. The top of it is slotted is it adjustable in any way? the only fixes i can think of would require the bottom not moving down. on a side note where did they solder the ground on it?
ETA i guess you could cut a short slot on the plastic that covers the circuitry and epoxy a non conductive rod to the side of the 510 that is just long enough to fit into the slot. allows for downward movement and keeps it from spinning

 

[MidwestGuy]

Thanks! Trying to think of a fix that wouldnt require replacing the entire 510 but with the looks of it i dont see how. The top of it is slotted is it adjustable in any way? the only fixes i can think of would require the bottom not moving down. on a side note where did they solder the ground on it?

They didn't solder a ground... that's another issue. They're using the case as ground for the 510. I don't see any quality fix options for this 510. It's a cheap piece of [censored]. Perhaps some hot glue to stick the wire to one of the sides, but that wouldn't eliminate the constant stress on the solder joint.

Restating my edit from my post above:

ETA for any HCigar reps: This would be a near perfect device with three simple fixes:

1. A properly wired (to specification) DNA40 with NO case grounding. Eliminate all case grounding!
2. A clear (non-smoked) screen cover.
3. A higher quality 510 connector, also wired properly (see #1).

 

[MidwestGuy]

Thanks! Trying to think of a fix that wouldnt require replacing the entire 510 but with the looks of it i dont see how. The top of it is slotted is it adjustable in any way? the only fixes i can think of would require the bottom not moving down. on a side note where did they solder the ground on it?
ETA i guess you could cut a short slot on the plastic that covers the circuitry and epoxy a non conductive rod to the side of the 510 that is just long enough to fit into the slot. allows for downward movement and keeps it from spinning

So, another funny thing... they make it look as if it's adjustable by putting a slot in it on the top side. All that does is spin the copper pin, thus spinning the wire around on the underside. Do NOT spin that 510 around with a flathead, thinking you're adjusting it ... the second the wire hits it's stopping point on either side and you keep spinning, you could snap the joint, especially if tightening. If loosening, the wire will stop it but the upper portion of that pin (apparently it's two piece) will then start to back out independently of the bottom copper piece.

But, as long as no one looks inside ... it may last just up to the (limited) warranty period.

I hope this makes sense, I've edited it a couple of times but I'm really tired. Time for bed.

 

[jmarkus]

i think its spring loaded, not screw adjusted

 

[T4T3Z0R]

They didn't solder a ground... that's another issue. They're using the case as ground for the 510. I don't see any quality fix options for this 510. It's a cheap piece of [censored]. Perhaps some hot glue to stick the wire to one of the sides, but that wouldn't eliminate the constant stress on the solder joint.

Restating my edit from my post above:

The only issue i could really see with grounding the 510 to the case is an increase in the resistance the board is reading the coils to be at. is this the case? if not im just going to wait till the soldier point on mine breaks and pop a fat daddy in there.

 

[Genghis]

So... by the time I end up getting this thing in appropriate working order, it will be about the same price as a regular high end DNA40 mod. Just a fair warning for those monitoring this thread thinking about buying one. May want to wait for version 2, as some others have suggested.

ETA for any HCigar reps: This would be a near perfect device with three simple fixes:

1. A properly wired (to specification) DNA40 with NO case grounding. Eliminate all case grounding!
2. A clear (non-smoked) screen cover.
3. A higher quality 510 connector, also wired properly (see #1).

I can't imagine any of those would add much to the price. Make it happen and you have a winner.

The device has a high end Ferrari engine, a tinted windshield, and a transmission made of duct tape.

Agreed. This is so close to being a good product, but it's negatives are pretty bad. And yes, if anyone is considering this mod, you will probably want to wait for the next version. And regarding the smoked screen cover. I remember seeing a video that the DNA boards have a tinted sheet, like a screen protector, over the LED screen. It made it sound like if you wanted the screen to be brighter, all you had to do was remove that sheet. I wonder if this one has it or not.

So I finally did the "fix" tonight. Re-screwed in the top screw for hopefully better connection for the 510 ground. And replaced the bottom ground wire from the battery negative terminal to the bottom screw. It was pretty simple. The only issue I had was my soldering skills, or lack of. When I was trying to solder the 20 gauge wire to the board, I ended up with a bigger blob of solder than I expected. I accidentally bridged the two negatives on the -B- pins. I'm not sure what affect this will have long term, but after I was done, I put a battery in and it works exactly like it did before I "fixed" it. I will probably never use the USB charger (as I have an external charger), and I'm not sure if this device allows for pass through, but I don't use that function on any of my devices, so I think I'll be ok. So now I only have to worry about the 510 connection. I'll just have to make sure, going forward, that I only use atties with a flat center pin, and to just be extra careful when screwing on the atty.

Anyhow, good luck to everyone who attempts to go down this road. It certainly has been interesting being a guinea pig. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow if I can find the time. But it basically came out the same as the earlier pic with a straight wire from the negative terminal to the board. Well that and the horrible blob of solder on my pin. But it's still functional, so that's all I care about for now.

 

[Ian444]

And replaced the bottom ground wire from the battery negative terminal to the bottom screw. It was pretty simple. The only issue I had was my soldering skills, or lack of. When I was trying to solder the 20 gauge wire to the board, I ended up with a bigger blob of solder than I expected. I accidentally bridged the two negatives on the -B- pins. I'm not sure what affect this will have long term, but after I was done, I put a battery in and it works exactly like it did before I "fixed" it.

I don't think bridging the two -B- pins will be a problem, I believe they are the same connection point. The charging circuit should still work fine too. As long as the solder is shiny, as opposed to a dull grey, you are looking good.

 

[Maka]

I wonder how hard it is to remove that 510 connector and out a new/better one on there?
If anyone does this, please update this Thread with pictures, info and what 510 connector you replaced it with

 

[Vapenstein]

FWIW
I emailed Evolv a week ago via their contact form with several questions regarding this mod and Evolv's stance on honoring their warranty on the board in this device.

I received no response.

 

[Technonut]

FWIW
I emailed Evolv a week ago via their contact form with several questions regarding this mod and Evolv's stance on honoring their warranty on the board in this device.

I received no response.

My messages were sent through the help desk, and had ticket #'s. Both were answered by Brandon.

 

[Rado]

Maka
Very easy
Remove the screw pin, pop it out with the plastic bit, then pop out the spring, and then, you need to remove everything from under the hood
1 min job

 

[T4T3Z0R]

Maka
Very easy
Remove the screw pin, pop it out with the plastic bit, then pop out the spring, and then, you need to remove everything from under the hood
1 min job

I think it was bieng asked to remove everything incluting the juice well so you could replace it with a fatd daddy

 

[T4T3Z0R]

My messages were sent through the help desk, and had ticket #'s. Both were answered by Brandon.

mine too. because its not a board problem but a manufacturer error there is nothing they can do

 

[Technonut]

mine too. because its not a board problem but a manufacturer error there is nothing they can do

I think the reference was regarding the actual board being covered by Evolv's 1 year warranty.. I linked this thread, and a pic of the HB's internals.. Brandon replied that the board is covered by the 1 year warranty, but it would need to be removed from the device for service..

EDIT: I can't directly copy the entire contents due to forum rules, but here is the pertinent part of my question:


"Will Evolv honor a warranty on any defective DNA 40 boards in these devices beyond the 30 days offered from the Vendor? If so, what would the guidelines of the warranty be? They are reported to be from the current batch which includes the Celsius reading."


And the pertinent part of Brandon's reply:


"we will honor the 1 year warranty on the board regardless of the manufacturers stated warranty."