Hcigar HB DNA 40 anticipation thread

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Croak

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I'm not sure I like the fire button placement. I would need to handle one first I think.

Might be fine. Good way to see is to grab an old MVP and pretend the button is to the left instead of centered. Index firing with the left hand is going to require the display face the palm, but other than that, should be fairly comfortable to index or thumb fire, with some requisite tilting of the box.
 

Eric Auer

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Might be fine. Good way to see is to grab an old MVP and pretend the button is to the left instead of centered. Index firing with the left hand is going to require the display face the palm, but other than that, should be fairly comfortable to index or thumb fire, with some requisite tilting of the box.

I fire my MVP20W with the side of my thumb joint and I am very used to it.

About the HB DNA40:

I would have liked this with a built in battery, 4000mah or more.

I like the look of the screen placement.

If it was at say $80 with a built in battery.....That would have been sweet!

Eric
 

Genghis

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this is the HB-50. Go to 18:20 and take a look at the internals. I have high hopes for the HB dna 40.

Thanks for the link. I checked out the video and the other one to HCigars earlier attempt at box mods (the little mini that burned up). It appears that they've made huge improvements on their assembly of their boxes. If you go over to vapetriad's website, on the page for this box, the last picture shows the internals for this box. Looks just as good and clean.

I had just found last night that SV was going to have these and signed up for notification. And to my surprise this morning I received the email that they had them in stock. Mine should be here by Friday. I've only recently started researching the new temperature limiting feature and am excited to try it out.
 

MidwestGuy

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Saw Todd's shot of the internals and instantly ordered. Very well put together/seems to be wired well and the price is freakin' amazing. This is a very similar configuration I was thinking about trying to build on my own, but HCigar seems to have already taken care of that for me. Will report back once received. I have a brand new Sony VTC4 waiting for it.
 

Technonut

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From what Mark Todd said, the batch of DNA 40's Hcigar used in the device also reads in Celsius, so they're the most current, and hopefully will not have issues. :)

I just caved on this one, and have it on the way.. I'm a sucker for a neat, clean, build.. Especially at the price-point. ;) I'm looking forward to comparing the difference in temp-protection between this, and the SXminiJ M Class that I have on pre-order due to arrive next month. :vapor:


EDIT: I just remembered that I have a 100ft roll of 30 gauge Ni200 around used for my NR / R builds.. I'm good to go for some temp-protection action when the device arrives. :2cool:

EDIT: Just had to post a pic of the build on this.. :) (The stuff that looks like rust on the divider is glue residue from the anti-tamper sticker)


HB%20DNA_zps0cghavke.jpg
 
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Technonut

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Just caught this in another thread... Doesn't overly concern me.. Have a screwdriver handy just in case though... ;)

This was posted in another forum about the Hcigar HB-DNA40....... just passing along FYI:


Just came across a few units of the HB-DNA40 that are showing up with the "Weak Battery" error fairly early on. Units may work fine right out of the box, but when running high drain setups (multi coil, low resistance), it may create arcing at the grounding contact points, which create enough impedance to show the error. The higher the drain of the atomizer, the faster this error seems to occur. More tests need to be done to confirm this for certain, but the half dozen units or so that I've tested so far that bring up this error, it's beginning to show this to be the case.

From what I can tell, the anodization used on the casing is a dielectric, and the grounding screws for the 510 and the battery's negative terminal is screwed in a single time and not tight enough. This may not be enough to break through enough of the anodization in the casing's screw holes to create a proper connection. The small gaps of contact may be small enough to create some resistance, which results in an electrical arc during firing of high drain setups. The arcing results in carbon build up, which creates more resistance, and messes with the DNA40's sensitive readings.

The best preventative solution I've found so far, is to back out the screws and screw them back in a couple of times to break through more of the anodized layer to get better contact to the enclosure. Also, the factory did not screw the grounds in very tight, so it's recommended that they be made a bit tighter to create a better contact. Doing this seems to have solved the problems so far.

14 mins · Like

EDIT: I'm thinking about running the screws in / out a few times, then take them out, apply a thin coating of Noalox, and run them back in tightly.. Should do the trick.. :)

Of course this is not for folks who are concerned about voiding their warranty by removing the anti-tamper sticker..
 
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