High drain batteries, talk to me...

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Drozd

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I think 14500s are on the fence in this way too.

I use the 16340s. I've chosen to use the IMRs for LR attys and won't use the ICRs with them. For cartos and 901s, I choose to use the ICRs (longer runtime). Std 510s... I'm on the fence.

Aye...but there are IMR 14500 in the works from AW....a couple places already have them but they're from a company called BDL which from what I've read is pretty much less reliable in their QC than *fire....
 

nicnac

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New_World

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Drozd

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Is that the max drain rate for joye 510?
The reason i'm asking this is because you have listed the ego max drain rate at about .65A

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/electronic-cigarette-reviews/87429-ego-love-4.html

Does the joye 510 have a higher max drain rate than ego?

these were two different things...

joye 510 is about 1.61A
(this should have been the amp draw of a joye 510 atty on a 3.7V battery)

the .65A was what should be the straight up max drain rate of a ego battery
 

nicnac

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these were two different things...

joye 510 is about 1.61A
(this should have been the amp draw of a joye 510 atty on a 3.7V battery)

the .65A was what should be the straight up max drain rate of a ego battery

Lets say I'm using a joye 510 atty which draws 1.61A on an ego battery that can only give .65A.
So what would be the amp that these two units interchange? 0.65A?
 

Drozd

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Ouch... that ....s!

So the eGo is really a 3.2v (RMS) device. Given a 2.2ohm atty, that calls for 1.45amps. A far cry from .65.

exactly...they're on borrowed time from the get go as far as being over stressed...and a LR will just compound that...

hence my excitement and pleasure that the AW 14500 high drains are now out...
 

North Shore

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My 801 LR atomizer croaked yesterday. So, I popped on one from another manufacturer. This allowed me to get an accurate idea of its potential. When combined with the nhaler 14500 LIMN battery, the results are very, very impressive.

To get proper contact and no rattle I had already added every brass washer supplied to the switch, and the longer spring. When I first did this, I got little power and almost no hit on the old atty. Then an idea occurred. I removed the switch screw, cleaned it and the washers added silver grease to the screw hole and put it back together. It was worth it. I got pretty good performance even with the original SLB stamped atty.

This new atty does not touch down on the O ring, but that may be o.k. as it allows more air flow, which this atty makes good use of. I get big clouds of flavorful vape and more consistent overall battery performance.

My first impression of these batteries was wrong and I am glad that I waited, and tested some more, before writing this.

I look forward to trying out the unopened pack of 16340 LIMN's with the new Precise model soon.

I am not sure who makes nhaler's high drain batteries, and how they compare to AW, but I will try AW next and let you know if I observe any noticeable difference.
 
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KonaNeil

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....I am not sure who makes nhaler's high drain batteries, and how they compare to AW, but I will try AW next and let you know if I observe any noticeable difference.

I would guess that they're both made by the same OEM. I don't think Andrew claims to have his own factory making the AW's. Its their tight QC and experience that people trust in. Regardless of what we think of Drew or any of the e-cig vendors, the flashlight and airplane battery guys have many more years of experience than anyone in our sector.

Once you have good examples of both, I'd be interested to know if you perceive a difference.
 

BrockJ

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NHalers look to be AW Brand Batts

I don't think AW would relabel their batts for NHaler. I'd guess them to be BDL's or some other copy company.

The AW IMR's are labeled so..
thumbnail.asp
pic from LightHound
 

Drozd

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Those are not protected. are they?

depends what you mean by protected...

no they don't have a PCB...they dont need one...

all better Lithium batteries (high drains included) have internal protection against over pressure and over heating...(that's the ventholes you can see in the positive end and the metal strip you see running down the side)...

protected Li-Ions have a PCB to brotect against over discharge, over charge, and shorts.... *however it's been reported that PCBs can often be damaged by charer malfunction or static electricity without any visible signs making them essentially unprotected..

the high drain LiMN is a more stable chemistry, does not produce it's own oxydizer (so if for some reason it did vent it would vent without flame), can withstand higher temperatures than Li-Ion without ill effect...yes you do have to watch that you don't overdrain them to the point where they will no longer take a charge...

and they don't get overstressed like the standard Li-Ions do...
 
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