That's what I thought, I just wanted to check. I'm getting kind of Old you know, and forget a lot of stuff that I didn't used to. 
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Hohmtech Slice
- Thread starter Lorenzo Morchio
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Out of stock at the other link but I can highly recommend Liion as a supplier. They must have got them in recently because they didn't have the Ijoy when I bought Basens from them a while back. I've heard good things about the Ijoy, Mooch gives them pretty high marks iJoy 40A 4200mAh 26650 Bench Test Results...overrated but a great 30A battery!
fasttech has them for $9 with free shipping but you know the story there.
A better 26650 would definitely be a good thing, the Basens don't seem all that great but that might be unfair since I'm comparing perfomance to dual 18650 devices. I like the Slice mods I have, or perhaps it's more accurate to say I like the FSK chip, but battery life of a single 26650 leaves much to be desired for me, at least compared to the G2's. YMMV
If you do get the Ijoys let us know how you like them.
fasttech has them for $9 with free shipping but you know the story there.
A better 26650 would definitely be a good thing, the Basens don't seem all that great but that might be unfair since I'm comparing perfomance to dual 18650 devices. I like the Slice mods I have, or perhaps it's more accurate to say I like the FSK chip, but battery life of a single 26650 leaves much to be desired for me, at least compared to the G2's. YMMV
If you do get the Ijoys let us know how you like them.
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I ijoys are awesome. I use them in my lux, slice, and rage unregulated series box.
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Just got a set from lithium ion wholesale ... have heard too many good things about them to pass it up. They were a good price too , at about 10 bucks a piece
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Nice! glad to see liion is stocking them now. they are a really good battery site. most of my batteries come from liionwholesale.com or illumn.com
When I first got my Basen's I thought that they were Great, but 3 to 4 cycles later I started to notice that they were not giving me the same performance (longevity at the same settings) as when new. I have been comparing the Basen's to my MNKE's, and now it seems that there is not that much difference between the two different batteries in either my Slice or my Presa TC 100, I make notes on the battery life of each so I can keep track. My G2, on the other hand, is far and away THE Best dual 18650 mod that I have, the batteries last longer, by far, than my other dual 18650 mod's (at the same settings). As soon as I can I will be getting those IJoy's for my Slice's and Presa's.
Evolv finally released more the of the carcinogen graphs.
Mike Petro opened a new thread here: New studies find carcinogens in vg and pg at high temps, even in tootle puffers
Temp Control is no longer a luxury, but a necessity. New data shows vaping at temps above 470 can release drastically more carcinogens than stinkies even in unflavored Ejuice.
Mike Petro opened a new thread here: New studies find carcinogens in vg and pg at high temps, even in tootle puffers
Temp Control is no longer a luxury, but a necessity. New data shows vaping at temps above 470 can release drastically more carcinogens than stinkies even in unflavored Ejuice.
Thanks for the post Tpat. I watched both video's with keen attention. Good stuff there for sure.
Just an FYI, I have lately been setting my G2 and Slice Temp's to just barely fire, then bump my XxX Temp Curve up a couple tenths and set my Temp to 380°F or 390°F at 12 watts ramp-up power for a cool vape with my Menthol Mix (using Twisted 30g Kanthal or 28g NiCr). Kanthal and Nichrome are the only wires I TC with. I think that I'm in a good place though after watching that video. Thanks for that Tpat.
Just an FYI, I have lately been setting my G2 and Slice Temp's to just barely fire, then bump my XxX Temp Curve up a couple tenths and set my Temp to 380°F or 390°F at 12 watts ramp-up power for a cool vape with my Menthol Mix (using Twisted 30g Kanthal or 28g NiCr). Kanthal and Nichrome are the only wires I TC with. I think that I'm in a good place though after watching that video. Thanks for that Tpat.
Note that with the way your tcing on the hohm tech you don't really know what temperature you're at. The best you can do is to use regular tc on a reliable tc device and compare the results to the kanthal tc on your slice. And even that is an approximation.Thanks for the post Tpat. I watched both video's with keen attention. Good stuff there for sure.
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It is though. I can try to use another term if that makes you happy (and if you're aim is to only disrupt the conversation, not add to it, please stop). "Conventional" perhaps. Feel free to suggest something else. The point here, which is actually very important in the context, that the DNA-style of tc does actually read the temperature of the coil (reasonably accurately), whereas the hohm tech kanthal tc doesn't. That's not criticising hohm tech mods - from everything I've heard I have no doubt that they do a very good job - but if actual coil temperature is important, they won't be much help.
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To be perfectly fair, if you look at DJLSBs charts the DNA is inaccurate enough that it's more fair to say none of the mods do a true temp control but more of a flavor control. sometimes off by close to 100F
personally i love the TC functionality of both the DNA and FSK chips, But i think most of us know that no chips are nearly 100% accurate and that it's mostly "close enough" even in power mode. What the mod is saying it's doing vs what it's actually doing are 2 separate things. its more flavor control and dry hit protection then anything.
plus when using fancier coils like fused claptons and aliens and such, it seems to throw mods off even more
First, I take exception to you ordering me, or anyone for that matter, on what to do.
Next, since this is the second time today you've used this phrase in this exact context, I thought it comical and hence attempted humor commenting on it a second time, particularly given your choice of repeating it on a mod specific thread.
You can use any phrase you like but don't be surprised if someone in the larger world ask what the hell it means. I suspect it is used to denote only DNA chips are 'regular', eliminating any other option, so you'll probably be on your way. I do find it amusing though, if I garner correctly from your post, your opinion is being instructed sans benefit from actually having tried the FSK board
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True, but the hohm tech kanthal tc doesn't really read temperature at all. If I'm not completely mistaken, which I could be. Ben spouts so much pseudo-scientific bs that it'll confuse anyone (still, not putting down hohm tech devices, but I do hate Ben's talk about them).To be perfectly fair, if you look at DJLSBs charts the DNA is inaccurate enough that it's more fair to say none of the mods do a true temp control but more of a flavor control. sometimes off by close to 100F
personally i love the TC functionality of both the DNA and FSK chips, But i think most of us know that no chips are nearly 100% accurate and that it's mostly "close enough" even in power mode. What the mod is saying it's doing vs what it's actually doing are 2 separate things. its more flavor control and dry hit protection then anything.
plus when using fancier coils like fused claptons and aliens and such, it seems to throw mods off even more
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To be perfectly fair, if you look at DJLSBs charts the DNA is inaccurate enough that it's more fair to say none of the mods do a true temp control but more of a flavor control. sometimes off by close to 100F
personally i love the TC functionality of both the DNA and FSK chips, But i think most of us know that no chips are nearly 100% accurate and that it's mostly "close enough" even in power mode. What the mod is saying it's doing vs what it's actually doing are 2 separate things. its more flavor control and dry hit protection then anything.
plus when using fancier coils like fused claptons and aliens and such, it seems to throw mods off even more
Thx for the post Ant. Could you point us to the source thread for the chart/data. Particularly any discussion on the methodology used to derive the cited real temp. Grateful if you can link to it.
Good luck.
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in all honestly, the answer is we don't know how it does it exactly. Ben has discussed it as much that it doesn't work in the same traditional sense and that it would likely fail DJLsb testing, that doesn't mean though that it's still not just as close to the actual temp as the DNA because every device fails DJLsb temp testing. it's why I don't even bother testing actual temp. I test smoothness, consistency, and usability.
Thx for the post Ant. Could you point us to the source thread for the chart/data. Particularly any discussion on the methodology used to derive the cited real temp. Grateful if you can link to it.
Good luck.
it's from DJLsb vapes review of the nomad DNA250 mod.
he uses actual temp probes on the coils
here is the full review
charts come in at the 28min mark
Technically both @KenD & @Anthony_Vapes are right in that there really is no way to know for sure what temp we are at no matter what mod you use including a DNAs without calibrating it properly. DNAs tend to be closer than other mods to a true temp, but differences in wire metallurgy and other factors cannot guarantee accuracy without thermocouples in coils. Hohmtech mods you have no way of actually knowing you are close without comparing it to a DNA or doing a water test. Even thermocouples can become inaccurate due to improper calibration.
A good way to get things as close as possible is to set up your build, and use water on a saturated wick to insure it boils @ 212f or 100c and adjust the TCR or FSK% until the mod reads correctly at 212f or 100c from a calibration standpoint before rewicking & using it with you juice.
Is it a PIA that no one wants to bother with - YES! But it is the only way I can think of to be reasonably sure your mod is properly calibrated to temp for your build no matter what mod you use. It is important that we all understand the risks and how to manage them IMHO.
A good way to get things as close as possible is to set up your build, and use water on a saturated wick to insure it boils @ 212f or 100c and adjust the TCR or FSK% until the mod reads correctly at 212f or 100c from a calibration standpoint before rewicking & using it with you juice.
Is it a PIA that no one wants to bother with - YES! But it is the only way I can think of to be reasonably sure your mod is properly calibrated to temp for your build no matter what mod you use. It is important that we all understand the risks and how to manage them IMHO.
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