Help me decide a mech mod please.

[Bad Ninja]

Lmfao! Hot sauce! That's awesome. I am not buying the whole oxgard idea tbh I'm getting a .3 drop on a .3 ohm dual coil so that's good enough for me. I also use a SS nemesis and it hits hard. I might grab a copper one just for the hit factor .
Lol hot sauce

Ox guard just slows oxidation, without hindering the flow of current.

 

[javyn]

I only use Noalox for sticky lock rings, switches, etc. I never noticed any performance increases with it.

And yeah, ketchup and hot sauce works great! The tarnish rubs right off brass and copper using it. Only thing is, you have to really rinse the hell out of the contacts because if there's any leftover sauce on them, that will make them tarnish faster.

BTW, don't grease your switch threads! LOL I made that mistake on mine. Now I can't just spin the switch a few times to unscrew it, I have to turn...and turn....and turn...and turn

 

[Adam harris]

I have 2 copper nemesis on the way

Microfiber clothes seem to be doing good at keeping things on the mod good and clean. I'm not using any kind of cleaner at all. Basically whatever natural oils are on the microfiber cloth is what I've been using and its keeping my SS nemmy looking good and running suzzzperb.

I appreciate the advice and helpful information I've been given in this thread. It really is awesome to see people responding with general interest in helping others.
I've learned alot about mechs and I wish to learn more.
Thank you and god bless y'all

 

[Donnie Alexander]

I soak my copper mods in distiller vinegar, then wash them off in water.

Before I polish them.

I also use one of those rubbery nail files to polish off the contact end of my switch as well as the positive and negative terminals on my batteries.

Gets rid of all the oxidisation

 

[sig-cmt]

I drop my copper in a bowl of distilled vinegar + salt. Tarnish comes off within minutes. Rinse. Dry. Done.

 

[Donnie Alexander]

I drop my copper in a bowl of distilled vinegar + salt. Tarnish comes off within minutes. Rinse. Dry. Done.

I used to use a lemon and salt solution

 

[Adam harris]

I built a dual parallel 24 gauge today thinking it was going to make massive clouds but I was sadly disappointed. I used 100% VG but to no avail because it wasn't making any clouds but the flavor was out of this world.
It was .13ohm on the meter so I didn't chance it in the mech and tyred it on the regulated.
It Was an extremely warm vape even on the velocity rda at wide open air flow.
Flavor was killer though. I guess the added surface area helped the flavor but oddly did nothing for the cloud.
Any suggestions for a build with a cooler vape with flavor and dense vapor?

 

[Donnie Alexander]

I built a dual parallel 24 gauge today thinking it was going to make massive clouds but I was sadly disappointed. I used 100% VG but to no avail because it wasn't making any clouds but the flavor was out of this world.
It was .13ohm on the meter so I didn't chance it in the mech and tyred it on the regulated.
It Was an extremely warm vape even on the velocity rda at wide open air flow.
Flavor was killer though. I guess the added surface area helped the flavor but oddly did nothing for the cloud.
Any suggestions for a build with a cooler vape with flavor and dense vapor?

I choose flavour over clouds any day, amd yes the added surface areas goes a long way to help with flavour.

Am surprised to hear that you aren't getting much in the way of clouds with that build. What battery are you using?

 

[duc916]

Ox guard just slows oxidation, without hindering the flow of current.

Exactly. Since the OP is new to mechs, the need to obsessively tinker with it will be there for a while , so he probably won't want to deal with the mess. However... when the time comes to prioritize reliability over tinkering, you can't beat a good anti-oxidant grease for a mech mod... and isn't that the point of a mech anyway? Reliability. Your mod will oxidize whether you "buy into" it or not.

 

[Adam harris]

I choose flavour over clouds any day, amd yes the added surface areas goes a long way to help with flavour.

Am surprised to hear that you aren't getting much in the way of clouds with that build. What battery are you using?

I'm using a Samsung 25r single battery. I don't put the .13 ohm on that though

I use the istick50 for the .13 ohm build.

 

[Adam harris]

Exactly. Since the OP is new to mechs, the need to obsessively tinker with it will be there for a while , so he probably won't want to deal with the mess. However... when the time comes to prioritize reliability over tinkering, you can't beat a good anti-oxidant grease for a mech mod... and isn't that the point of a mech anyway? Reliability. Your mod will oxidize whether you "buy into" it or not.

, ok when I see my copper nemesis patina I will get some oxgard lol

 

[mhertz]

Sorry, I hope it's OK for the OP that I use his nice thread to also ask a similar question...

I'm new to mechs and have two on the way from china(nikita and smpl clones). I always knew the contacts where good to have in the most conductive material possible(silver/cooper/brass etc), but didn't until recently learned that also the body makes a change and so hence, why many prefer full copper mechs.

However, all this with "that hits harder" and "this hits hardest" etc, is imho making me feel as i'm in an audiophile forum

I have e.g. an SS smpl clone coming in soon and then was wondering if I did a bad move and needed to order the same in copper, but if comparing the same mod with same brass or copper contacts, then does ss body vs. coppy body really makes for a noticeable lower voltage drop in your opinion? I very much suspect that peoples differences more comes from the battery voltage level and builds and not copper vs ss bodies of the same mod etc.

I mean hasn't it been measured allready in other circumstances that the difference is maybe a half watt or something along that at most?

I just wanna sort the pseudo-science from the real facts on this, please...

(Again, i'm talking about comparing the same mod in different body materials and not different mods as there's obviously switch and contact differences there)

Thanks a lot in advance guys!

Note, I know about ohms law, battery safety(amps) and hybrid's protruding 510 pin needs etc, so you don't need to warn me on the smpl

 

[duc916]

I just wanna sort the pseudo-science from the real facts on this, please...

I got some good responses on this subject a while back, in this thread....

Metal conductivity, at a glance

Bottom line in my opinion is that the cost:benefit ratio isn't good enough to use a copper mod as a daily driver. Doing 3-4x more frequent cleanings for a placebo performance improvement isn't for me. Moonreef's real-world math is indisputable and pretty much ends the discussion.

 

[Susaz]

I'm going to be running an original lemo tank with a 2ohm coil. I will be using 25r batteries.
Which mech clone is the safest and durable. IM Looking for a stainless steel type.
I've thought about the stingrays,nemisis,kingz v2, but I also want adequate vent holes. If I have to drill holes I will. Safety is top priority.
I've done a lot of research on ohms law and amp limits as well as battery safety. Still though I'd want a mech with a locking ring. I've heard recessed buttons are safer but I don't want the negative side of the battery to come into contact with anything until I unlock the ring and push the button to fire it. This will be my first mech so I don't want any hybrids too start out.
I'm not particularly just fixed on the mechs I mentioned but I AM 100% NOT wanting a mech that has an extremely close contact to the negative side of batteries UNLESS I unlock the ring and then I still want a little room just in case it does random fire because of negative contact with button.
I hope this makes sense.
I'm open for suggestions.

Has anybody suggested Vapour Art GP? Any of those are wonderful, pricey, but you'll have a mod for the rest of your natural life.

 

[Adam harris]

Sorry, I hope it's OK for the OP that I use his nice thread to also ask a similar question...

I'm new to mechs and have two on the way from china(nikita and smpl clones). I always knew the contacts where good to have in the most conductive material possible(silver/cooper/brass etc), but didn't until recently learned that also the body makes a change and so hence, why many prefer full copper mechs.

However, all this with "that hits harder" and "this hits hardest" etc, is imho making me feel as i'm in an audiophile forum

I have e.g. an SS smpl clone coming in soon and then was wondering if I did a bad move and needed to order the same in copper, but if comparing the same mod with same brass or copper contacts, then does ss body vs. coppy body really makes for a noticeable lower voltage drop in your opinion? I very much suspect that peoples differences more comes from the battery voltage level and builds and not copper vs ss bodies of the same mod etc.

I mean hasn't it been measured allready in other circumstances that the difference is maybe a half watt or something along that at most?

I just wanna sort the pseudo-science from the real facts on this, please...

(Again, i'm talking about comparing the same mod in different body materials and not different mods as there's obviously switch and contact differences there)

Thanks a lot in advance guys!

Note, I know about ohms law, battery safety(amps) and hybrid's protruding 510 pin needs etc, so you don't need to warn me on the smpl

NO YOU CAN NOT STEAL MY THREAD!! relax.
Welcome to the world of mechs and yes I myself do notice a difference in the hit on a copper mech more then I would a SS mech.
There both nemesis mechs but the copper has a .25 drop and then SS is .35. It's not enough to notice much difference.
We aren't audiophiles but I'd rather have a JBL sub over a centerline Sony. YMMV.
I enjoy mechs excessively like a enjoyable hobby and conforming to battery limits and voltage to get the best coil is really fun. I love the tinkering aspect of mechs.

You didn't make a mistake getting a SS mech at all. There sturdy and not soft like copper. You can pocket it and not worry about damaging it unlike soft copper.

 

[mhertz]

Thanks a lot for both of your replies, duc916 and Adam, much appreciated guys!

Now if taking the link duc916 kindly posted and using Moonreef's nice resistivity calculations from said link, then for a regularly sized tube mech, then the difference between copper vs SS bodies equals about 0.1w!

 

[Donnie Alexander]

I'm using a Samsung 25r single battery. I don't put the .13 ohm on that though

I use the istick50 for the .13 ohm build.

Well there in lies your problem. Get a LG HE4 battery and run that build on your mech mod. Totally different experience.

I am even surprised that your istick 50 can fire a .13 build. 50watts won't cut it for that build. If you want to run your RDA on an istick stick to the .5 range.

 

[Donnie Alexander]

Sorry, I hope it's OK for the OP that I use his nice thread to also ask a similar question...

I'm new to mechs and have two on the way from china(nikita and smpl clones). I always knew the contacts where good to have in the most conductive material possible(silver/cooper/brass etc), but didn't until recently learned that also the body makes a change and so hence, why many prefer full copper mechs.

However, all this with "that hits harder" and "this hits hardest" etc, is imho making me feel as i'm in an audiophile forum

I have e.g. an SS smpl clone coming in soon and then was wondering if I did a bad move and needed to order the same in copper, but if comparing the same mod with same brass or copper contacts, then does ss body vs. coppy body really makes for a noticeable lower voltage drop in your opinion? I very much suspect that peoples differences more comes from the battery voltage level and builds and not copper vs ss bodies of the same mod etc.

I mean hasn't it been measured allready in other circumstances that the difference is maybe a half watt or something along that at most?

I just wanna sort the pseudo-science from the real facts on this, please...

(Again, i'm talking about comparing the same mod in different body materials and not different mods as there's obviously switch and contact differences there)

Thanks a lot in advance guys!

Note, I know about ohms law, battery safety(amps) and hybrid's protruding 510 pin needs etc, so you don't need to warn me on the smpl

I find that copper provides the best overall consistent vape. Actually dislike the look and smell of copper but can't deny that when comparing my like for like mods the copper versions perform better.

 

[Adam harris]

Well there in lies your problem. Get a LG HE4 battery and run that build on your mech mod. Totally different experience.

I am even surprised that your istick 50 can fire a .13 build. 50watts won't cut it for that build. If you want to run your RDA on an istick stick to the .5 range.

Ok ill check out that battery thanks!
It fires on the istick because on the istick it's reading .2 ohms lol. It will fire it about 3 hits and cut off. I tried the build on my friends 80w mod and it was chucking and flavor was great. I'd guess it would even handle 100-120w.

 

[sonicbomb]

The overall design of a mech has more influence over it's voltage drop than the material it is made from, and SS is more practical. The amount of vapor ultimately produced is down to the way you build your atty way more than the voltage drop.