Interested in a backup mech. Suggestions?
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On loose magnets, I've been using this with consistent success:
Scuff the magnet if it's overly shiny. 1 -2 drops total in the hole the magnet sits in. Wear a nitrile glove. Push the magnet in. Hold it in place for 30 seconds.
Important: If it's a magnet-to-magnet connection you have to get the poles right. If you put it in upside-down it will act to open the cover rather than hold it closed.
Scuff the magnet if it's overly shiny. 1 -2 drops total in the hole the magnet sits in. Wear a nitrile glove. Push the magnet in. Hold it in place for 30 seconds.
Important: If it's a magnet-to-magnet connection you have to get the poles right. If you put it in upside-down it will act to open the cover rather than hold it closed.
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I used gorilla glue.. I was surprised it didn't hold longerOn loose magnets, I've been using this with consistent success:
Scuff the magnet if it's overly shiny. 1 -2 drops total in the hole the magnet sits in. Wear a nitrile glove. Push the magnet in. Hold it in place for 30 seconds.
Important: If it's a magnet-to-magnet connection you have to get the poles right. If you put it in upside-down it will act to open the cover rather than hold it closed.
Here are a couple of options.
dotmod Dotsquonk
dotSquonk - dotmodretail
Arctic Dolphin Soul
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3...authentic-arctic-dolphin-soul-18650-bf-squonk
Hugo Squeezer
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3011/10044088/9450104-authentic-hugo-vapor-bf-squeezer-squonk
Another couple to look for would be the lost vape Furyan. With that one, spare bottles are the weak point. If you can find some, it would be a good mod to get, but LV stopped making spare bottles for it so you are likely going to be stuck with only what comes with it.
Anchor Nano is a great option. Super tiny, very lightweight, smooth rounded edges. But I can't find their website anymore. They may only sell on Facebook now.
For RDAs, semi restricted single coil that will support the .4+ ohms that you plan to use very nicely.
Haku Venna (clone)
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10053417/9658642-sxk-haku-venna-styled-rda-rebuildable-dripping
Krma (clone)
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10051985/9651768-krma-styled-rda-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer
GR1
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10049180/9633488-authentic-gas-mods-g-r-1-gr1-rda-rebuildable
Each of these have great flavor properties. The Venna and KRMA are easier to build, but the GR1 makes up for the building learning curve with slightly better flavor. But all three are excellent options, especially for simple single wire builds at mid range sub ohm.
dotmod Dotsquonk
dotSquonk - dotmodretail
Arctic Dolphin Soul
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3...authentic-arctic-dolphin-soul-18650-bf-squonk
Hugo Squeezer
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3011/10044088/9450104-authentic-hugo-vapor-bf-squeezer-squonk
Another couple to look for would be the lost vape Furyan. With that one, spare bottles are the weak point. If you can find some, it would be a good mod to get, but LV stopped making spare bottles for it so you are likely going to be stuck with only what comes with it.
Anchor Nano is a great option. Super tiny, very lightweight, smooth rounded edges. But I can't find their website anymore. They may only sell on Facebook now.
For RDAs, semi restricted single coil that will support the .4+ ohms that you plan to use very nicely.
Haku Venna (clone)
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10053417/9658642-sxk-haku-venna-styled-rda-rebuildable-dripping
Krma (clone)
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10051985/9651768-krma-styled-rda-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer
GR1
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10049180/9633488-authentic-gas-mods-g-r-1-gr1-rda-rebuildable
Each of these have great flavor properties. The Venna and KRMA are easier to build, but the GR1 makes up for the building learning curve with slightly better flavor. But all three are excellent options, especially for simple single wire builds at mid range sub ohm.
I kinda like the looks of the Gripnade, but the one major turnoff for me is that stupid locking feature. To some it might sound cool in theory , but it's even more impractical in actual use than that silly lever from the original Pulse mech.
In the end it's a nice showcase item, but then again you can get fake (or even real) grenades for a lot less than 200 bucks.
A thought just occurred to me. OP wants something not prone to failure. Really, a squonker is adding extra failure points. A nice thing to have, perhaps, but not something to have to rely on in the toughest conditions.
A tube mech has a connector on top, and a switch at the bottom. Not much to fail, and some, like Kennedy, also offer replacement buttons/switches. I got an extra for my Vindicator. If the mod has a direct to battery connection, then heat sinks make cheap, and quickly replaceable, 510 connector. Most mechs that have 510 connectors have connectors that can be replaced by a $5 connector from Fasttech. A bit trickier to replace than a heat sink, though.
If I'm in an "Escape from NY" sort of situation, I would want a well made tube mech with me. But something lighter than a Vindicator. Maybe a 22mm that has extensions so you can use 18350/18500/18650. In most of these, you can also stack two 18350's. The classic is the Nemesis, but I don't like the button design.
I've bought like a couple of dozen or so clones in the past few months, as well as a few authentics. Many of the clones are good mechs (sometimes excellent) in their own right. One that really stands out is Tad's First Mod (also known as "First Mod"), by Footoon, a Korean company that makes top notch mods. I have the $10 clone, and it's one of the best built mods I own. Has a regular 510, mucho ventilation, and isn't too heavy. Stainless so polished it looks chrome plated. It even has a ring to lock your atty in place.
I have an authentic of another mod by Footoon, and the metalwork is stunning. Stainless is also much more durable than copper or brass. It just isn't as good of a conductor. Which I don't find to be a problem. The clone is $10, easily found on AliExpress. The authentics are out there, some at fire sale prices. $175 at Roadside Vapes, $50 at Delaware Vapor. A Google search will turn up a number of them at various prices.
Another one to consider is the CONSRVR mod by League of Scoundrels. I think Vaporrange still has some. For $40 it's a steal. The finish quality left something to be desired, but it's one solid mod. Solid copper or brass. It has the most ingenious 510 connector I've ever seen. It uses a copper ball to automatically adjust the 510 to your atty, but it's more solid and fixable than a floating pin (another weak point). Also means that battery adjustments and magnets are almost never needed. 18650 only. The bottom button/switch is very hefty, and uses a copper ball contact. It looks sort of weird, but the shape is really quite ergonomic. For $40 free shipping, it's a worthy addition to any apocalypse stash.
League of Scoundrels CONSVR Mechanical Mod Authentic
A tube mech has a connector on top, and a switch at the bottom. Not much to fail, and some, like Kennedy, also offer replacement buttons/switches. I got an extra for my Vindicator. If the mod has a direct to battery connection, then heat sinks make cheap, and quickly replaceable, 510 connector. Most mechs that have 510 connectors have connectors that can be replaced by a $5 connector from Fasttech. A bit trickier to replace than a heat sink, though.
If I'm in an "Escape from NY" sort of situation, I would want a well made tube mech with me. But something lighter than a Vindicator. Maybe a 22mm that has extensions so you can use 18350/18500/18650. In most of these, you can also stack two 18350's. The classic is the Nemesis, but I don't like the button design.
I've bought like a couple of dozen or so clones in the past few months, as well as a few authentics. Many of the clones are good mechs (sometimes excellent) in their own right. One that really stands out is Tad's First Mod (also known as "First Mod"), by Footoon, a Korean company that makes top notch mods. I have the $10 clone, and it's one of the best built mods I own. Has a regular 510, mucho ventilation, and isn't too heavy. Stainless so polished it looks chrome plated. It even has a ring to lock your atty in place.
I have an authentic of another mod by Footoon, and the metalwork is stunning. Stainless is also much more durable than copper or brass. It just isn't as good of a conductor. Which I don't find to be a problem. The clone is $10, easily found on AliExpress. The authentics are out there, some at fire sale prices. $175 at Roadside Vapes, $50 at Delaware Vapor. A Google search will turn up a number of them at various prices.
Another one to consider is the CONSRVR mod by League of Scoundrels. I think Vaporrange still has some. For $40 it's a steal. The finish quality left something to be desired, but it's one solid mod. Solid copper or brass. It has the most ingenious 510 connector I've ever seen. It uses a copper ball to automatically adjust the 510 to your atty, but it's more solid and fixable than a floating pin (another weak point). Also means that battery adjustments and magnets are almost never needed. 18650 only. The bottom button/switch is very hefty, and uses a copper ball contact. It looks sort of weird, but the shape is really quite ergonomic. For $40 free shipping, it's a worthy addition to any apocalypse stash.
League of Scoundrels CONSVR Mechanical Mod Authentic
Something else that occurs to me is--do you really want to carry an RDA in your pocket? Maybe some RDTA's. I think I could probably pocket a Kanger DOTA if it wasn't too full. Tanks are the most pocket friendly, of course, some more so than others. Squonkers are made for tube mechs as well.
No way. Much too fragile for that sort of use. Ever tried jumping a wall with a squonker in your pocket?
I can't jump a curb with nothing in my pocket ... but I'm sure the production company could find an appropriate stunt double that could do so (or creatively edit in post production).
Due to the round contacts, the contact point is very small, which results in terrible arching. I shelved mine because of it.
I agree that the contact points are small. Indeed, I don't see the point of round contacts unless they go into a cup.
But I've been using it for a couple of weeks now, and have had great performance, and no noticeable arcing. YMMV, though. I like it almost as much as my Vindicator.
But I've been using it for a couple of weeks now, and have had great performance, and no noticeable arcing. YMMV, though. I like it almost as much as my Vindicator.
This statement makes me think you may not have had any hands on time with an SQ. Nothing about it is fragile. Plus, with a mech squonk I can replace contacts with parts from a hardware store and not have to find special made parts such as most tube mods use for contacts.
I carry squonks in my pocket with no problems from the rda on top, but I have had tanks break in my pocket and embed glass into my thigh deep enough to require "pocket knife surgery."
I honestly think either a quality squonk or tube mech would be a fine choice, both can be durable and last for years of hard use. But since the OP asked for no top or bottom fire buttons and a non hybrid connection, that particular tube mod may not even be available (I can't think of one). A squonk just fits his requirements a bit better.
Speaking of arching, do you guys use any sort of dielectric, de-oxy etc sort of things on the contacts before using to prevent arc marks?
I use deoxit on my contacts to help keep arching down. I also clean my contacts with either a pencil eraser or a rag depending on how bad the carbon build up is.
Holy smokes!
I broke out my Purge squonk and the battery DOES interfere with the door, juuuuust barely enough to be in the way. It’s so minor that it’s easy to overlook. If you put the battery strap in there you can notice it more but without the strap even if you look at it from the side the door is still flush so we’re talking like .2 of a mm, but it’s there so you’re right it does get in the way with a 21700 on mine.
You got me there. I've never used a squonker, and not likely I will, either. I'm pretty much a shut in, and have dozens of mods, rda's, etc. Not much use for squonking. I do like rdta's.
My suggestion was tongue in cheek, but it is absolutely true that squonkers have more points of failure. As for tubes needing specialized parts, I could build one from the parts available at Ace. In fact, the last time my wife drove me there, I picked up some copper contacts and springs to upgrade the fire buttons on some clones.
I've never had any problems at all with arcing. My battery bottoms are clean, no matter what device they've been in. Then again, I almost never build lower than .8 ohms
My suggestion was tongue in cheek, but it is absolutely true that squonkers have more points of failure. As for tubes needing specialized parts, I could build one from the parts available at Ace. In fact, the last time my wife drove me there, I picked up some copper contacts and springs to upgrade the fire buttons on some clones.
I've never had any problems at all with arcing. My battery bottoms are clean, no matter what device they've been in. Then again, I almost never build lower than .8 ohms
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