Help me decide a mech mod please.
- Thread starter Adam harris
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I went mechanical because 3 years ago a VV mod was running close to a hundred bucks and I had 3 in a row go bad....All of them failed at the 22 penney micro-switch we call the fire button.
Now, I am just alittle finicky about how my equipment is stored and used.....But when a 21 dollar copper mod gets vaped for 12 hours every day for 3 years 2 months and a couple of days (I've replaced 3 sets of batteries) without a single failure or hotspot, a grumpy old cheap-skate geezer grins.
I dont build below .6 ohms and always leave at least 40% headroom on the batteries ( Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators ) though cause I'm also an electrical engineer that spends his days fixing cheap Chinese electronics....And I dont trust these Chinese batteries to work any better then these Chinese Routers and switches I replace ALL day....
So, treat your mechs well and your face may reap the benefits....I clean and inspect EVERY time I change a battery.....The patina will go from black to green.....the black looks good till it turns green.....NO GREEN on a mod.....Disassemble the switch completely once a month (its a PITA the first 3 or 4 times, after that its a 2 minute evolution) and you wont get switch hot spots. (Never had one personally but have cleaned several for friends that were gnarly) And Enjoy.
Oh, keep it out of your pants pocket.....thats where folks get in the most trouble with them.....They get in a hurry and they put things in their pants that dont belong there!!!
Now, I am just alittle finicky about how my equipment is stored and used.....But when a 21 dollar copper mod gets vaped for 12 hours every day for 3 years 2 months and a couple of days (I've replaced 3 sets of batteries) without a single failure or hotspot, a grumpy old cheap-skate geezer grins.
I dont build below .6 ohms and always leave at least 40% headroom on the batteries ( Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators ) though cause I'm also an electrical engineer that spends his days fixing cheap Chinese electronics....And I dont trust these Chinese batteries to work any better then these Chinese Routers and switches I replace ALL day....
So, treat your mechs well and your face may reap the benefits....I clean and inspect EVERY time I change a battery.....The patina will go from black to green.....the black looks good till it turns green.....NO GREEN on a mod.....Disassemble the switch completely once a month (its a PITA the first 3 or 4 times, after that its a 2 minute evolution) and you wont get switch hot spots. (Never had one personally but have cleaned several for friends that were gnarly) And Enjoy.
Oh, keep it out of your pants pocket.....thats where folks get in the most trouble with them.....They get in a hurry and they put things in their pants that dont belong there!!!
If the mech is locked then what's wrong with it being in my pants pocket?
You'll tweak the tank and either fire it with the top pin out of alignment or it kills the threads in the top cap. My Neme travels locked in my shirt pocket (Old geezers always wear shirts with pockets....) or in my hand.
Never in my pants pocket....Ever........
I Killed the tops threads on #2 that way.#1 is in my hand right now.
Never in my pants pocket....Ever........
I Killed the tops threads on #2 that way.#1 is in my hand right now.
The 25r is better than the hg4 also when pushed hard... Check out Mooch's tests on the HG4 which specifically compares it against the 25r...
LG HE4 20A 2500mAh 18650 Bench Test Results...good, but not as good as the 25R
@All, When I before posted a calculated difference between copper vs ss bodies on a normal sized 18650 tube mech, then it wasen't a typo by me when I wrote 0.1w! I don't mean 0.1v, but 0.1watts difference calculated upon a 0.2 ohms build as example...
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Both the LG he4 and Samsung 25r are 20 amp batteries. A .13 build draws more than 30 amps. A dangerous recommendation.
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Locks can fail. I had a Stingray X locking ring work it's way loose in my pocket, mod fired continuously until it started burning my leg. I yanked it out, the atty was on fire and the mod too hot to hold. It's like keeping a pistol stuffed in your waist band, you may be all right but if not you're going to shoot your wedding tackle off.
True.
Please don't go below .25ohm on a single 18650 regardless of what brand or spec battery it is. Your face isn't worth a cloud of vapor.
I won't go below .25 that's for sure.
Interesting...
So the firing button was engaged and pushed in and on or did it start firing from another source?
Guys go over to general vaping discussion on this site and check out my thread about vape haters. You will love it and i would love to hear everyone's story!
Thanks and go check it out.
Thanks and go check it out.
Im fine by people sticking completely to cdr rates, but personally for a single 18650 with a 25r I would say 0.2 ohms is fine... Firstly it's only 21 amps very shortly and climbs down to 18 or below(4.2 / 3.7) and the 25r is pretty cool around the 20a spot. It reaches 100C btw at 30a continous(about 75C at 20a and 90C at 25a)... Mooch's safety sheet lists the cdr as 20a, and the max pulse(vape) amp used with a little headroom for accidents like stuck fire-buttons etc as 25a. In his new tests of the 25r5 he states very good 20a cell which he wouldn't recommend to use over 30a...
Of course Adam's build was lower than 0.2 and at 0.13 which is pushing it I agree. Also the voltage sag will be so big as you wont get the power you think on a single cell mech anyways...
Of course Adam's build was lower than 0.2 and at 0.13 which is pushing it I agree. Also the voltage sag will be so big as you wont get the power you think on a single cell mech anyways...
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How could it fire if the button isn't pressed..wouldn't the negative side of the battery have to be in contact with some sort of metal? How would that happen with the delrin insulator on the nemesis
you'll yank it out of your pocket after giving it a good jolt and try to hit it....Hopefully your eye happens to catch that the tank is now at about a 30 degree starboard list....Meaning you tweaked the threads (which are about 4 turns of fine and made of soft copper.)
If you dont notice your top contact is gonna hit the battery and dent it....and when you fire it might arc or spark....nothing explosive just not normal.
Or you sit down with it in your back pocket.......
If you dont notice your top contact is gonna hit the battery and dent it....and when you fire it might arc or spark....nothing explosive just not normal.
Or you sit down with it in your back pocket.......
7/8" vinyl end caps... Better than any lock-ring, but only good for recessed buttons (e.g. SMPL)...
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