How to: Build the Puck

[johnny bobcat]

rege... you should try it! Puck has made it very easy and it's fun to experiment from there. I've built a couple Puck SD's and worked on my latest version until the wee hours of the morning..... Ask for help if you need any!

I basically built a 4x AAA box inside of a 4xAA box so I'd have room for the pump spray bottle. The switch is oversized and was the only one I had on hand but it works out great! I rest my thumb on the pump button and activate the atty... every one in a while I press the pump to keep the filler nice and wet. It worked great all day and is going strong! I get about .8 volts dropped between idle and vaping....

Here's the stripped out AA box with the components soldered in place.

Here's the finished version! The white button is the top of the spray bottle. The red button activates the atty. The hose is from a gas grill lighter. The pump and fittings are beefed up with teflon tape so no leaks. The DVM comes on when the main power switch is turned on to show idle voltage and stays on while vaping to show voltage under load. I put a small piece of bubble wrap over the batteries until I can cut some foam.

Here's the inside. It's a Puck at heart... A Puck within a Puck....

definitely looks like some sort of binary explosive device

 

[BobTheKlown]

Yeah, not one I would try to take through airport security.... Very nice though...

 

[BiohazardVideo]

You are AWESOME!!! It's refreshing that your sharing this to help everyone Vape like crazy... Bookmarked to do my first mod.

 

[capecodjim]

You are AWESOME!!! It's refreshing that your sharing this to help everyone Vape like crazy... Bookmarked to do my first mod.

I agree! Thanks for putting mods into the hands of the common man... lol I would have tried mods eventually but your tutorial sure sped things up! This forum has been a great resource. Thanks!

Thanks BobTheKlown... glad you like it!

The latest touch on my current incarnation of the Puck within a Puck....

The slack in the tubing was bothering me because it seemed bound to get snagged on something the way it was wound around the atty... but it needs to be there so the cart can be removed from the atty. I solved the problem by putting the hose down a hole near the pump and back up another hole near the atty so the slack resides inside the unit and can be pulled out when needed. I also put the hole for the tube into the cart at an angle pointed down to lessen the bend. I didn't get rid of the hose but its a little more rugged. I like that the juice is a closed system and I don't have to worry about leakage if it's on its side or upside down....

Thanks again Puck. Hope I haven't posted here too much... I prolly should have started a new thread for my Puck variants...

 

[dragynfly]

Awesome tutorial, thank you

 

[ThePuck]

If anyone needs any help or has questions, please don't hesitate to ask. The Puck has enabled me to get off regular cigs and I want everyone else to be able to do the same. It's been over a year now, smoke free and vaping keeps me sane. I couldn't have done that on a regualr e-cig battery.

I want everyone to have the same life changing opportunity. That's why I have posted the tutorial. Everyone can build a battery box that can last a really long time with parts you can buy locally and produces great vapor. If you have questions, don't be shy

 

[Ramshaka]

If anyone needs any help or has questions, please don't hesitate to ask. The Puck has enabled me to get off regular cigs and I want everyone else to be able to do the same. It's been over a year now, smoke free and vaping keeps me sane. I couldn't have done that on a regualr e-cig battery.

I want everyone to have the same life changing opportunity. That's why I have posted the tutorial. Everyone can build a battery box that can last a really long time with parts you can buy locally and produces great vapor. If you have questions, don't be shy

Hey I've got a bit of confusion you could probably clear up real quick. You say in the tutorial to use a 274-1582 coaxial power jack for the 901 atty, but around page 5 here Pcore says that he used a 274-1583 for a kr808D-1 carto. Why this confuses me is because I thought the 901 atty and the kr808 carto were supposed to mate up to the same male thread, and I'd like to use both on my mod. So which one should I buy @ the shack? Or, am I just being dense about what matches up?

I'd sure would like to know cause the quicker I find out the quicker I get to make a mod that doesn't require duct tape and steady hands.

 

[ThePuck]

Hey I've got a bit of confusion you could probably clear up real quick. You say in the tutorial to use a 274-1582 coaxial power jack for the 901 atty, but around page 5 here Pcore says that he used a 274-1583 for a kr808D-1 carto. Why this confuses me is because I thought the 901 atty and the kr808 carto were supposed to mate up to the same male thread, and I'd like to use both on my mod. So which one should I buy @ the shack? Or, am I just being dense about what matches up?

I'd sure would like to know cause the quicker I find out the quicker I get to make a mod that doesn't require duct tape and steady hands.

I believe the simple answer you are looking for is, the threads are the same size on both jacks. You can also use one of their Chrome LED holders also but you have to fabricate the center contact with that, but it has the same thread size also.

Be careful though because they have been changing some of them around in the drawers.

 

[Ramshaka]

Cool, I'm having to order over the net, since I live no where near a "real" Radio Shack so thats helpful as heck.

Thanks

 

[Ramshaka]

Well, I managed to build a simple little puck, just got my parts today, and I don't have any glue. So I just made a quick rig to vape with, and I gotta say I like it a lot

One quick little thing though, I don't know about a 901 yet (I'm getting some they just aren't here yet), but to use a kr808 cartomizer you'll want the N size coaxial jack not the M size. The M size will fit but you'd have to add a bit of solder to the inner plug to get it to reach the contact on the cartomizer. Hope that helps I was lucky enough to go with my gut and get both, just in case.

 

[ThePuck]

Well, I managed to build a simple little puck, just got my parts today, and I don't have any glue. So I just made a quick rig to vape with, and I gotta say I like it a lot

One quick little thing though, I don't know about a 901 yet (I'm getting some they just aren't here yet), but to use a kr808 cartomizer you'll want the N size coaxial jack not the M size. The M size will fit but you'd have to add a bit of solder to the inner plug to get it to reach the contact on the cartomizer. Hope that helps I was lucky enough to go with my gut and get both, just in case.

View attachment 24866

Yeah, good thing but with the 901 I have used both and have had success. I use either one (which ever one the have stock for at the store). Good job on the mod. Looks like you won't even need any glue. Looks good the way it is

 

[capecodjim]

Well, I managed to build a simple little puck, just got my parts today, and I don't have any glue. So I just made a quick rig to vape with, and I gotta say I like it a lot

One quick little thing though, I don't know about a 901 yet (I'm getting some they just aren't here yet), but to use a kr808 cartomizer you'll want the N size coaxial jack not the M size. The M size will fit but you'd have to add a bit of solder to the inner plug to get it to reach the contact on the cartomizer. Hope that helps I was lucky enough to go with my gut and get both, just in case.

View attachment 24866

Nice job!! Your parts sure came in quickly!

You can't beat a puck!!!

 

[Ramshaka]

Nice job!! Your parts sure came in quickly!

You can't beat a puck!!!

Yeah on a side not I'm actually pretty impressed with the Shacks shipping diligence, got to me in three days, with standard shipping.

Also, in my stumbling, I came across this site:
Rechargeable Batteries & Battery Chargers - 6 RCR123A 3.0V 750mAh LiFePO4 Rechargeable Batteries with a Smart Charger -Specials
Which has some great batteries for anybody looking to do something a wee bit more extensive or experimental. I'm actually thinking of using some of the LiFe batteries in my next project and I think these RCR123A's would be great to play with.

 

[Para]

I wondered how much resistance is being pulled by and through the coaxial jack so I put my meter on my Puck; with and without load. The results were surprising.

I checked several sets of batteries, all fully charged, and the no load reading varied from 5.0 to 5.2, and 3.3 to 3.6 under load. That's a really big dropoff. I think I'll switch to an LR atty for this build and make one using a regular battery connection and check the readings.

 

[ThePuck]

I wondered how much resistance is being pulled by and through the coaxial jack so I put my meter on my Puck; with and without load. The results were surprising.

I checked several sets of batteries, all fully charged, and the no load reading varied from 5.0 to 5.2, and 3.3 to 3.6 under load. That's a really big dropoff. I think I'll switch to an LR atty for this build and make one using a regular battery connection and check the readings.

I'm not sure why you are getting that but I measure right on the back of the jack under load and with a fresh set of batteries and I get 4.74 volts under load. No load doesn't really matter here but I get about 5.23 volts. Try checking it with an actual voltmeter to be sure. Those little meters are not the most accurate meters. I have some. It even says that on the website where I buy them.

The little meters I use showed about 4.6 under load on "no so fresh" batteries the last time I had one hooked up.

If you use a regular voltmeter to test with and you are still getting 3.3 to 3.6 volts under load, then somethings wrong with your box somewhere whether it be the connector or the battery contacts (or even wire size even though that's never been a problem for me). I cannot see anyway you would get decent vapor production if it is running at 3.3 to 3.6 volts.

I have had some 901 attys, when starting to go bad, that would pull way too much current from the batteries which will knock down your voltage also. You may want to check it with another atty and compare resistance values.

 

[WillyB]

You could also check the resistance. From the switch contact, Vin, to the center post of the atty connector (pressing the fire button of course).

 

[Para]

It's not my meters...getting the same reading with my digital multimeter. Something is amiss somewhere.

First thing I'll change attys and see what it get

 

[Para]

If you use a regular voltmeter to test with and you are still getting 3.3 to 3.6 volts under load,

Help me...how do you hook up your multimeter to test with and without load?

Thanks

Clarify: What I'm wondering is where do you connect the probes with the atty in place to get the volt reading you mentioned.

 

[ThePuck]

Help me...how do you hook up your multimeter to test with and without load?

Thanks

Clarify: What I'm wondering is where do you connect the probes with the atty in place to get the volt reading you mentioned.

On the two contacts of the atty connector (or jack if that is what you used) that you solder the wires to. Just put your meter leads across those while hitting the button. If you cannot get to the connector leads, first just put the leads right across the battery + and - and see what you get there.

Sometimes a bad battery can cause this also if it is bad and cannot supply the load required. I've had that happen recently with a set of batteries where one went bad. It showed fine until it was under load.

 

[Para]

On the two contacts of the atty connector (or jack if that is what you used) that you solder the wires to. Just put your meter leads across those while hitting the button. If you cannot get to the connector leads, first just put the leads right across the battery + and - and see what you get there.

Sometimes a bad battery can cause this also if it is bad and cannot supply the load required. I've had that happen recently with a set of batteries where one went bad. It showed fine until it was under load.

That's w/o load...the voltage when fired. How do you check it, using a multimeter, with an atty attached?