Hussar Project X RTA Clone (by Coppervape)

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johnpalley

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Mine does the same most of the time. No hint of a dry hit tho...
Yeah I was Getting dry hits before but now I’m not but the flavor and hit isn’t the same. If only one bubbles for you also than it’s just me being a newbie probably. I’m gonna put a new coil in and take it from there. Thanks for the response
 

ShowMeTwice

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Great points my friend. So I’ve been using it today and it’s connecting just fine. It looks like I’m running into another issue though. Right now I’m not getting the same flavor and hit that I used too. I’m having some sort of wicking issue I think.

You know how there’s two places in the tank where the bubbles come out of? I’m noticing that there’s only bubbles coming from one area and not the second. Pretty much every time I take a vape I see big bubbles from only one of the black air holes. Only every now and then I see a small bubble from the second one. I just took it apart and cleared what looked like to be the one that was clogged but when I put it back together it’s still doing the same thing. This isn’t supposed to be happening is it guys?

The Project X has JFC (juice flow control) and I think that is what you are referring to.
On mine with the extension tank I see air bubbles regularly coming from both holes. On my other Project X without the extension tank it is too hard for me see. On my Project X MTL I can see air bubbles from both.

Flavor/TH/Wicking:

I get an excellent flavor and TH with mine. Can you post photo's of your build and wicking? That would help. If you are not able then I would suggest watching Todd's video and wicking the same as he does. On my first Project X build I did exactly as he did and it worked fine. Since then I've used a few different builds.

Video in AngeNZ's 1st page post here: Hussar Project X RTA Clone (by Coppervape)

What are the specifics of your build? What type of wicking are you using? How much did you trim?
I've used both cotton, Graham's rayon and Tidi rayon in mine. All work great for me.

I just snapped a photo of my X build deck that has a cotton wick. It's a crappy photo (sorry) but you at least can see how mine is. This wick is old as in 12 days. It still tastes and works great. I DIY my juices and am not heavy handed with flavors and that will play a role in how long a wick lasts.
I trimmed ~20% off the sides of the cotton before tucking it into the juice wells.
IMG_1135cr.jpg

You can clearly see near the outsides of the wick where the Project X JFC holes lay. I've done a lot of experimenting with how much wick can be used in my Project X's. Using too much versus too little. Like any RBA it is a balancing act and can take some time to find what works best. But once you get it it's awesome.

I hope that helps you some and please if you can post photo's it will help. Let us know. Cheers
 

ShowMeTwice

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@johnpalley , this talk of air bubbles got me watching them on some of my other RTA's. ;)

On my Kayfun Prime's and Atmizoo Tripod's bubbles come up from both sides just like the X. But there is no pattern to it. It can be from one side or the other and it is never the same. They pop from either side, or the same side, whenever they "choose" to. Same with the Dvarw. And with the Project X's.

Always after I build/wick or refill bubbles come up from both sides.

Never thought I would watch bubbles, but I do and did. :lol:
My dog and cat love it when I use those kid bubble kits. They chase and pop 'em.

That's about all I know about bubbles...
 

AngeNZ

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    Yeah I was Getting dry hits before but now I’m not but the flavor and hit isn’t the same. If only one bubbles for you also than it’s just me being a newbie probably. I’m gonna put a new coil in and take it from there. Thanks for the response

    Different wicking techniques work for the different way we all vape, different juices and so on. Try Todd's method first:


    I use the French method:


    and what works for @Janusz the best (and some FT users) is the German method:


    The beauty of vaping - is that we are all different :thumb:
     
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    johnpalley

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    The Project X has JFC (juice flow control) and I think that is what you are referring to.
    On mine with the extension tank I see air bubbles regularly coming from both holes. On my other Project X without the extension tank it is too hard for me see. On my Project X MTL I can see air bubbles from both.

    Flavor/TH/Wicking:

    I get an excellent flavor and TH with mine. Can you post photo's of your build and wicking? That would help. If you are not able then I would suggest watching Todd's video and wicking the same as he does. On my first Project X build I did exactly as he did and it worked fine. Since then I've used a few different builds.

    Video in AngeNZ's 1st page post here: Hussar Project X RTA Clone (by Coppervape)

    What are the specifics of your build? What type of wicking are you using? How much did you trim?
    I've used both cotton, Graham's rayon and Tidi rayon in mine. All work great for me.

    I just snapped a photo of my X build deck that has a cotton wick. It's a crappy photo (sorry) but you at least can see how mine is. This wick is old as in 12 days. It still tastes and works great. I DIY my juices and am not heavy handed with flavors and that will play a role in how long a wick lasts.
    I trimmed ~20% off the sides of the cotton before tucking it into the juice wells.
    View attachment 833937
    You can clearly see near the outsides of the wick where the Project X JFC holes lay. I've done a lot of experimenting with how much wick can be used in my Project X's. Using too much versus too little. Like any RBA it is a balancing act and can take some time to find what works best. But once you get it it's awesome.

    I hope that helps you some and please if you can post photo's it will help. Let us know. Cheers
    Mine doesn't look as wet as that after I take a few hits. I put in a brand new coil and cotton and im still getting burnt hits. Those coils in the pictures I posted, just so you know I added one more wrap to that to raise the ohms above .70. What I do is I cut the cotton to the exact length of the deck. It doesn't extend past the deck at all it goes right to the end of the oval holes and then I just lightly push it down so it touches the bottom. Before that I give it a good comb. Im always afraid im gonna choke the cotton that why I do it like that. I noticed in the first two videos you posted that there cotton extends past the deck a little. Maybe I should just do that and see what happens. Fyi my cotton does not extend up so there's no need to cut the top like in the 3rd video. Oh and im using cotton bacon. Theres still only one side that's bubbling too which im not liking. Hmm maybe I do just need to make the cotton longer I dont know.
    IMG_0362.JPG
    IMG_0363.JPG
    IMG_0362.JPG
    IMG_0363.JPG
    IMG_0362.JPG
    IMG_0363.JPG
    IMG_0364.JPG
    IMG_0365.JPG


    Sorry I have no idea why duplicate photos are posting. Fyi I just let the tank sit for 10 min and im not noticing it any wetter. Sorry if the pics are a little dark
     
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    Heartsdelight

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    @johnpalley , this talk of air bubbles got me watching them on some of my other RTA's. ;)

    On my Kayfun Prime's and Atmizoo Tripod's bubbles come up from both sides just like the X. But there is no pattern to it. It can be from one side or the other and it is never the same. They pop from either side, or the same side, whenever they "choose" to. Same with the Dvarw. And with the Project X's.

    Always after I build/wick or refill bubbles come up from both sides.

    Never thought I would watch bubbles, but I do and did. :lol:
    My dog and cat love it when I use those kid bubble kits. They chase and pop 'em.

    That's about all I know about bubbles...
    On my Tripod clone (I’m vaping on it right now) bubbles only come out of 1 jfc hole after every vape.
     

    Heartsdelight

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    Actually maybe it is wetter now. Heres some better lighting.
    I wouldn’t worry too much about bubbles coming out of both af holes. As long as it’s wicking well. Mine usually only comes out of one hole & I never get dry hits.

    For some reason your cotton bacon looks compressed. IMHO your cotton looks compressed perhaps that’s why you’re getting drier hits. I would rewick it & like you said make sure the cotton fills the juice ports but fluffier then I tap down the cotton on top as when you put the tank back on it will do that anyway. Good luck!
     

    johnpalley

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    I wouldn’t worry too much about bubbles coming out of both af holes. As long as it’s wicking well. Mine usually only comes out of one hole & I never get dry hits.

    For some reason your cotton bacon looks compressed. IMHO your cotton looks compressed perhaps that’s why you’re getting drier hits. I would rewick it & like you said make sure the cotton fills the juice ports but fluffier then I tap down the cotton on top as when you put the tank back on it will do that anyway. Good luck!
    Its crazy cause I comb the cotton alot. It gets to the point where I sometimes think too much is being stripped off. I haven't had alot of luck with this cotton bacon ive been using to be honest with you. Ive never had a wick last more than like 3 days and most of my wicks have problems. Ive never tried any other type of cotton and im thinking maybe I should. Im gonna give it another try today before work Thanks.

    Does anyone know what kind of cotton Tod used in his video? He didn't even have to comb it at all I like that. When he tested his wick before he put the tank on he gets a huge amount of vapor coming out. I never get nearly that much vapor when I do that and he's just using basic kanthal. The french guy also doesn't comb at all. I think if I did this with my cotton bacon it would be clogged like hell. Im gonna try it similar though and see what happens. I noticed the french guy is using Native Wicks. Maybe I should try some of that. For the record Im using cotton bacon prime to be exact. I want a cotton that I dont need to comb.
     
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    ShowMeTwice

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    Its crazy cause I comb the cotton alot. It gets to the point where I sometimes think too much is being stripped off. I haven't had alot of luck with this cotton bacon ive been using to be honest with you. Ive never had a wick last more than like 3 days and most of my wicks have problems. Ive never tried any other type of cotton and im thinking maybe I should. Im gonna give it another try today before work Thanks.

    Does anyone know what kind of cotton Tod used in his video? He didn't even have to comb it at all I like that. When he tested his wick before he put the tank on he gets a huge amount of vapor coming out. I never get nearly that much vapor when I do that and he's just using basic kanthal.
    I'm currently using claptons in my X's too. I've successfully used 2mm - 3mm ID's in the X. Kanthal + ss316L.

    Maybe try not combing your cotton bacon and see your results??? You might be surprised with the result and that may work better for you. There is no hard and fast rule that says you must comb. From what you said, perhaps you are combing way too much. It comes down to whatever you find works best for you. Experiment and you will find that happy place.

    I would try your wick a tad longer than where you are trimming.

    Sorry, I don't know what kind of cotton Todd uses.

    My wicks last ~14 days (cotton) and ~30 days for rayon (Tidi or Graham's/Sally's).
    I do not comb the Tidi rayon wicks. Tidi is much finer than Graham's/Sally's. Trim and tuck.

    For cotton I use Cottonmans Mavaton's Select (oils removed) and Carolina Blend 200mm (oils removed). He is a cotton farmer and seriously knows his cotton. It is not cheap but it is the silkiest/finest and cleanest cotton I know of. It lasts and wicks great with all build types. I've used his cotton for years because I was very unhappy with the performance of all the rest. And I tried most. I never comb Cottonman cotton. Again, trim and tuck.

    Mine doesn't look as wet as that after I take a few hits. I put in a brand new coil and cotton and im still getting burnt hits. Those coils in the pictures I posted, just so you know I added one more wrap to that to raise the ohms above .70. What I do is I cut the cotton to the exact length of the deck. It doesn't extend past the deck at all it goes right to the end of the oval holes and then I just lightly push it down so it touches the bottom. Before that I give it a good comb. Im always afraid im gonna choke the cotton that why I do it like that. I noticed in the first two videos you posted that there cotton extends past the deck a little. Maybe I should just do that and see what happens. Fyi my cotton does not extend up so there's no need to cut the top like in the 3rd video. Oh and im using cotton bacon. Theres still only one side that's bubbling too which im not liking. Hmm maybe I do just need to make the cotton longer I dont know. Sorry I have no idea why duplicate photos are posting. Fyi I just let the tank sit for 10 min and im not noticing it any wetter. Sorry if the pics are a little dark
    In one of my X's I have a 7 wrap 0.70Ω 2.5id 32*3/40 twisted fused clapton, nearly the same as you.

    I have a question ... after you fill your Project X are you opening the JFC all the way? I'm sure you are but the thought crossed my mind. Sorry.
    If you are not opening it all the way that will give you dry hits.
    The two "flat" sides of the Project X tank should be centered with the long vertical line for fully open. Like so...
    IMG_0846cr1.jpg

    After I build/wick or refill I don't let mine sit for any time because my wick is already saturated from priming and ready to vape. When I prime my wicks I don't go sparingly with juice but I also don't go heavy. Just enough to saturate the "entire" wick.

    More wicking thoughts ... If your wick is "too" tight in the coil you will get dry hits. If it is too loose it will flood. With cotton when you insert your wick you should feel some resistance moving it side to side. Not too much. If it is moving your coil a lot or distorting its shape then that is too much. If you see the coil move a little that is fine. With the wire you are using the coil will move more than say with 28g kanthal or ss316L.

    Hope that helps.

    Dupli photos: You can always go back and edit your post to delete the duplicate photo's. I've done that more than once myself.
     
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    ShowMeTwice

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    @johnpalley , looking at your second photo "IMG_0367.jpg" I would try more cotton than that in the wells. More fluffy as @Heartsdelight said and similar to my photo above. Try trimming a few more mm beyond the edge of the X deck. Like 2-3mm. Tuck and try. From my experience the wick should fill more of the juice wells. Again too much thickness in the coil and you run the risk of dry hits. Too little in the coil and at the ends it will flood. There is a balance you need to find through experimenting.

    Whenever I get an RBA I've never had I experiment a lot to find what works best with wicking (for me). Wicking is the most challenging part of building with an RTA. Anyone can roll a coil ... it always comes down to the wicking. Like with any learned skill once you get it down it's old hat.
     

    johnpalley

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    I'm currently using claptons in my X's too. I've successfully used 2mm - 3mm ID's in the X. Kanthal + ss316L.

    Maybe try not combing your cotton bacon and see your results??? You might be surprised with the result and that may work better for you. There is no hard and fast rule that says you must comb. From what you said, perhaps you are combing way too much. It comes down to whatever you find works best for you. Experiment and you will find that happy place.

    I would try your wick a tad longer than where you are trimming.

    Sorry, I don't know what kind of cotton Todd uses.

    My wicks last ~14 days (cotton) and ~30 days for rayon (Tidi or Graham's/Sally's).
    I do not comb the Tidi rayon wicks. Tidi is much finer than Graham's/Sally's. Trim and tuck.

    For cotton I use Cottonmans Mavaton's Select (oils removed) and Carolina Blend 200mm (oils removed). He is a cotton farmer and seriously knows his cotton. It is not cheap but it is the silkiest/finest and cleanest cotton I know of. It lasts and wicks great with all build types. I've used his cotton for years because I was very unhappy with the performance of all the rest. And I tried most. I never comb Cottonman cotton. Again, trim and tuck.


    In one of my X's I have a 7 wrap 0.70Ω 2.5id 32*3/40 twisted fused clapton, nearly the same as you.

    I have a question ... after you fill your Project X are you opening the JFC all the way? I'm sure you are but the thought crossed my mind. Sorry.
    If you are not opening it all the way that will give you dry hits.
    The two "flat" sides of the Project X tank should be centered with the long vertical line for fully open. Like so...
    View attachment 834053
    After I build/wick or refill I don't let mine sit for any time because my wick is already saturated from priming and ready to vape. When I prime my wicks I don't go sparingly with juice but I also don't go heavy. Just enough to saturate the "entire" wick.

    More wicking thoughts ... If your wick is "too" tight in the coil you will get dry hits. If it is too loose it will flood. With cotton when you insert your wick you should feel some resistance moving it side to side. Not too much. If it is moving your coil a lot or distorting its shape then that is too much. If you see the coil move a little that is fine. With the wire you are using the coil will move more than say with 28g kanthal or ss316L.

    Hope that helps.

    Dupli photos: You can always go back and edit your post to delete the duplicate photo's. I've done that more than once myself.
    After thinking about it maybe the cotton in the coil is too tight. Im gonna make sure its loose enough. I dont understand what your saying about the juice control. I thought as long as you can see the air holes than that means its fully open
     
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    ShowMeTwice

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    After thinking about it maybe the cotton in the coil is too tight. Im gonna make sure its loose enough. I dont understand what your saying about the juice control. I thought as long as you can see the air holes than that means its fully open
    The Project X tank uses juice flow control, or JFC. It needs to be open for juice to flow onto your wick and avoiding dry hits. The PEI tank section rotates to close and open the JFC. On your X there are two cut out tabs on each side of the PEI tank. Those line up with the two juice flow circular slots inside the tank that allow juice to flow onto your wick.

    You close it to fill the tank and then open it to allow juice to flow onto your wick. Take yours and hold it by the yellow tank section and also by the bottom metal base and twist. It should move from side to side. I have one where it is tight and another that moves more freely.

    Pics...

    On this one the JFC is closed. Meaning no juice will flow onto the wick. If you vape it like this you will get a few hits and then dry hits because no juice is flowing from the two holes inside the tank section onto the wick.
    IMG_1138cr.jpg

    Here the JFC is open allowing juice to freely flow onto the wick. You know the JFC is wide open when the tabs on each side line up with the middle of the tabs. Or the middle vertical line of the three.
    IMG_1139cr.jpg

    Here on an X with the extended tank section. In the closed position.
    IMG_1136cr.jpg

    And in the open position.
    IMG_1137cr1.jpg

    ETA: Yay, it's fixed. My stupid browser cache had to be cleared. Tech, gotta love it.
     
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    ShowMeTwice

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    Yes, on your first photo I can see the tab of the PEI tank section is clearly lined up with the middle vertical line on the base. Your JFC is wide open.

    Good to know it's vaping nicely for you. Hopefully you got it now.

    Let us know later on how its going.

    Cheers :)
     

    Zazie

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    Replacement Project X o-rings from the O-ring Store came today (4 days = fast shipping).
    Do o-rings qualify as shiny items? :confused: Right, probably not. o_O But they are shiny... :lol:
    View attachment 828463
    The o-rings in the two ziplock's in the upper left are what came with the Project X. I compared some to those to the ones from the o-ring store and had a hearty laugh. The o-rings that came with the X are pretty cheap versus decent ones IMO.

    I've had the ones that came with the Project X laying flat. As seen in the photo a few janky ones have not gone back to proper o-ring shape. :nah:

    I'm going to swap them all out on my next rewicking. Except the one under the positive insulator.
    Only because I don't want to pop in another clapton so soon. ;) That one can wait awhile.
    How did you know what sizes to get? Or did you just buy an assortment?
     
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