Okay, so I'm sitting down now with my brand spanking new Reo and getting everything ready. Atty is built (went with a 6/5 wrap, 2.5mm ID, 1 ohm coil, wicked with KGD) and ready. Bottle filled. So here come the questions again: cutting the inverted v in the bottle tube. How big does the cut need to be and do I only need to cut one side of the tube or do I need to make two cuts? I'm guessing one since making two cuts would pretty much eliminate the bottom of the tube but I want to make sure. Also, can I use any eraser to clean the top of my battery? I watched super_x's video and he said any eraser but I also read elsewhere that it has to be a specific type. He does seem to be the Reo guru so I'm not doubting him, just making sure. I have a Sony VTC4 fully charged so I guess I'm gonna go with that one. Really wish I had the AW batteries on hand instead of sitting at the post office but such is life.
If You are THINKING REOS, but don't know what to ask....
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I've only done one cut on a 45.. Really whatever you do to make sure the tube dont seal at the bottom. Any eraser most likely. I've never done that as I just clean them from time to time with rubbing alcohol and the same with the gold contact pin with a q-tip and 99% rubbing alcohol.
Should be fine with that bat at that ohms.
Now get at it as i'm sure you've already been hehe.
Should be fine with that bat at that ohms.
Now get at it as i'm sure you've already been hehe.
Heres the video on the tube v cut if you want to do it the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9uuD46nmZI&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9uuD46nmZI&feature=youtu.be
Have you adjusted the 510 and made sure the atty is in contact with the 510 pin?
Alright so I've bought my nuppin to top of the REO I do not own yet. I have been seriously mind blow by the nuppin atty for some reason. Now I have quite and extensive collection of vaping supplies however, when I do buy my new REO would there be any reason to believe I would need to buy new or different batteries? Currently I run MXJO 18650 IMR 35 amp batteries in all my mods they have always served me well and seem to have a pretty good life span on them.
35 amp ? That is one serious battery ! I've always just used the 'recommended' AW IMR 18650 3.7V batteries, 1600mAh. But then I stay in the 1.5 ohm range on my Grands. Maybe someone with a little more battery knowledge than myself will come along shortly to help out....
Papaw I posted some pics in the Reos Family Photos thread and the Reo Lounge thread.
Kinda just givin your question a bump since I don't know anything about those batts either. But wahooooooo on fixin to get your Reo!!! and welcome!! I kinda did the same thing......was buying everything I'd need for the Reo before planning to get the Reo. My plan got foiled a bit, but I am soooooo not complaining! lol
You don't mention if they are button or flat tops, because that will affect how hard you have to push the Reo firing button to get a contact. I use VTC4's mostly and they are 30A constant discharge button top batteries that don't suffer the same rate of counterfeiting as the lauded VTC5's.
Flat top batteries, especially the VTC5's have had reports of pitting occurring on the top. This is noticeable more on a Reo, because you can take the door off and see the contact as it's made, which of course you cannot with a tube mod. I find it happens with all batteries.
The reason i run 30A batteries is because my coils are typically in the 0.2-0.3Ω range. You really have to make sure you keep the Reo firing pin really clean and coated with Noalox.
At these relatively low resistances, i find the Noalox to have more staying power than other things like Deoxit, and i use both quite happily.
T
I have some paranoid dumb user questions. Two reos in with 6 BF atty's it might be a little late for the paranoid questions bit, but here I am anyway. So here goes.
1. super glue on the tube? I get that it should get inside the tube, but glue right near where the tube snugs up to the nipple makes me weary.
2. insulator gunk. watched Russ' video on reo rebuilding and noted the important gunk around the 510 pin insulator. How is juice not coming in contact with this?
3. dirt gunk buildup in the 510 / catch cup. How do you properly clean this area to ensure you're not vaping gunk?
As you can see there's a theme here. I'm paranoid about this BF world I find myself in naturally leading to juice moving all around a mod in places that are generally the parts of a mod where I wouldn't want juice. Any mod I've used builds up some gunk in the 510 and has bits and bobs held together with glue. This doesn't bother me because the juice I'm vaping doesn't go there. I clean any gunk in the 510 to keep the threads working well, but not the kind of cleaning that is probably merited when juice you're vaping is expected to pool up there.
Apologies in advance for the fire drill here. I'm sure these topics have been discussed before, and as far as I know Reoville has zero casualties. I just figured I would toss this out there since Papa was kind enough to kick off this thread looking for dumb questions like these.
1. super glue on the tube? I get that it should get inside the tube, but glue right near where the tube snugs up to the nipple makes me weary.
2. insulator gunk. watched Russ' video on reo rebuilding and noted the important gunk around the 510 pin insulator. How is juice not coming in contact with this?
3. dirt gunk buildup in the 510 / catch cup. How do you properly clean this area to ensure you're not vaping gunk?
As you can see there's a theme here. I'm paranoid about this BF world I find myself in naturally leading to juice moving all around a mod in places that are generally the parts of a mod where I wouldn't want juice. Any mod I've used builds up some gunk in the 510 and has bits and bobs held together with glue. This doesn't bother me because the juice I'm vaping doesn't go there. I clean any gunk in the 510 to keep the threads working well, but not the kind of cleaning that is probably merited when juice you're vaping is expected to pool up there.
Apologies in advance for the fire drill here. I'm sure these topics have been discussed before, and as far as I know Reoville has zero casualties. I just figured I would toss this out there since Papa was kind enough to kick off this thread looking for dumb questions like these.
Hi scratch
1. The glue is to seal the tube to the nipple. It does 2 things it helps keep the tube attached to the nipple, and it keeps juice from seeping out. Your not actually putting the glue between the tube and the nipple (think caulk around the seam between the bathtub and the tile wall).
2. The insulator gunk is to insulate the outside of the 510 from the body of the Reo. It's a silicone goo that sets up into a rubbery like gasket. When Rob first offered the upgrade contacts, some of the folks who chose to do the upgrade themselves saw that there and thought "oo yuck gunk" and dug it out not realizing that it needed to be there.
3. Gunk in the catch cup and 510... if running water doesn't get all the gunk off you can use a soft tooth brush. Be careful not to damage the gaskets by scrubbing to hard.
1. The glue is to seal the tube to the nipple. It does 2 things it helps keep the tube attached to the nipple, and it keeps juice from seeping out. Your not actually putting the glue between the tube and the nipple (think caulk around the seam between the bathtub and the tile wall).
2. The insulator gunk is to insulate the outside of the 510 from the body of the Reo. It's a silicone goo that sets up into a rubbery like gasket. When Rob first offered the upgrade contacts, some of the folks who chose to do the upgrade themselves saw that there and thought "oo yuck gunk" and dug it out not realizing that it needed to be there.
3. Gunk in the catch cup and 510... if running water doesn't get all the gunk off you can use a soft tooth brush. Be careful not to damage the gaskets by scrubbing to hard.
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I have some paranoid dumb user questions. Two reos in with 6 BF atty's it might be a little late for the paranoid questions bit, but here I am anyway. So here goes.
1. super glue on the tube? I get that it should get inside the tube, but glue right near where the tube snugs up to the nipple makes me weary.
You do not have to use the glue. Robert does on new REO's. The glue seals the tube but the tubing is so snug the juice does not go up that far.
2. insulator gunk. watched Russ' video on reo rebuilding and noted the important gunk around the 510 pin insulator. How is juice not coming in contact with this?
You were watching the rebuild of the old 510. The new 510 does not have gaskets.
3. dirt gunk buildup in the 510 / catch cup. How do you properly clean this area to ensure you're not vaping gunk?
Usually with the RBA's there is no juice in the catch cup. But it is up to the REO user to wash their REO and remove any that might collect. Metal REO's can be washed in hot water with dishsoap.
As you can see there's a theme here. I'm paranoid about this BF world I find myself in naturally leading to juice moving all around a mod in places that are generally the parts of a mod where I wouldn't want juice. Any mod I've used builds up some gunk in the 510 and has bits and bobs held together with glue. This doesn't bother me because the juice I'm vaping doesn't go there. I clean any gunk in the 510 to keep the threads working well, but not the kind of cleaning that is probably merited when juice you're vaping is expected to pool up there.
Apologies in advance for the fire drill here. I'm sure these topics have been discussed before, and as far as I know Reoville has zero casualties. I just figured I would toss this out there since Papa was kind enough to kick off this thread looking for dumb questions like these.
Answers above in red.
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