Depends on how much you vape what resistance devices you use @ what power level and what you call a day, for me, no. I use 2 ~ 2.5 18490's per day.
I'm new and headed down the provari road. Please help
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Depends on how much you vape what resistance devices you use @ what power level and what you call a day, for me, no. I use 2 ~ 2.5 18490's per day.
I think I have a 350 battery already for my crap k100 already. If I burn through those batteries I'll order more I guess. Seems like I'm going to be having a whole kit. I honestly don't like the huge e cigs which is what drew me to the mini.
Anyone weighing in on the straight or curved steel tank?
Anyone weighing in on the straight or curved steel tank?
You should get the finish that you like. I have satin silvers, black and polished, which are all very nice, but satin silver is my favorite.
Despite being very durable compared to the finishes on other mods, they will show wear, but they are designed to be workhorses, not to sit on a shelf. This one is a bit extreme, but it worked fine.
Scratches and wear are less obvious on silver satin, but it does happen, especially if Stormy gets ahold of it.
The polished finish has more of a potential to have hairline scratches from use, but the advantage with the finish is that it's stainless steel and marks can be buffed out.
There's about a half inch difference between the regular & mini (0.65" IIRC). The other thing I was just thinking concerning the VV/VW debate... they are the same thing with a little bit of simple knowledge. You can use a VW as a VV (or vice versa) with a tiny bit of basic arithmetic.
No opinions on the tanks besides I'm not all that happy with my LeakPro2 (but burping it does seem to be helping it a bit). I've got some cartotanks coming... sometime. Still waiting for the email from IBT. Been looking at the Phiniac's too, which I would've ordered first had I realized they were Montana based.
ETA: My first one was a mini. To save money at the time, I didn't get an extension cap, figured I'd get one later. It turns out that I like the small form factor and haven't bought an ext cap yet. I chain-vape, but usually around 7-8 watts. I get about 5-6 hours out of an 18350. I'd rather carry extra batteries, than make my mini any bigger.
Sometimes even the slightest mention of math scares people. One thing they often don't consider is that they will be using the same devices over and over. Once you know what you like, you don't have to calculate at all.
I know one of my tanks has a 3.0 carto in it. How do I know? I bought that resistance and put it in the tank. The first time I put it in I checked the resistance, but that was to make sure I got what I ordered. I know I like a cool vape with the juice I put in it, so I set it at 4.5 volts to begin with. Then I dialed up to see where I liked it. I like it around 4.8 volts. Unless my taste changes, which it does sometimes during the day, that tank set-up will always be set at 3.0Ω/4.8v until the tank is empty of that juice, no matter how many times I take it off to replace it with another device, and then put it back on.
Provape recommends using only AW IMR high drain batteries.
IMO, the standard size (not mini) isn't huge or even big, I carry a standard with an XL phiniac in my shirt pocket 6 7/8" from base to end of drip tip (oal).
Hard to know how much juice you have left in a tank you can't see into until it burns.
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Good to know. I'll carry my charger the first few days and if I need another battery I'll order one from the site
No. A coil is the heating element that vaporizes the liquid. Coils are a component of an atomizer, a cartomizer and a clearomizer.
ETA: For example, this is the "head" of a Protank. See the little wire coil wrapped around the wick? In a Protank, the liquid is held in the glass tube, the wick delivers the liquid to the coil where it is heated and become vapor. That is why these things are called "Juice Delivery Systems."
(This is a Protank V1)
When members talk about rebuilding, etc., they are referring to building or rebuilding coils and wicks. For example, Protank heads can be rebuilt, and this is a Kayfun clone:
It's worth noting that devices like a Protank don't have to have the heads rebuilt if you don't want to. I don't. Heads aren't very expensive, so I just put in a new one when needed.
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cob24
If you get the kit you get:
The ProVari™ Mini V2.5 Starter Kit Includes:
• 1 - ProVari Mini Variable Voltage Electronic Vaporizer with a 510 connection, in a satin silver finish
• 2 - 18350 AW high drain batteries
• 1 - Battery Charger - Charges two batteries at a time
• 1 - ProTank 2 (New Version) BCC Tank
If you get the kit you get:
The ProVari™ Mini V2.5 Starter Kit Includes:
• 1 - ProVari Mini Variable Voltage Electronic Vaporizer with a 510 connection, in a satin silver finish
• 2 - 18350 AW high drain batteries
• 1 - Battery Charger - Charges two batteries at a time
• 1 - ProTank 2 (New Version) BCC Tank
So I just ordered the starter kit. I'm about to order the steel tank that I've posted in the links.
https://www.cigtechs.com/mobile/product.asp?itemid=402
Underneath it it says I can order the head and cap for them so I'm going to do that. What is the thing on this tank that I'm going to have to replace once a week? I'd like to order it all at once. Is it this?
https://www.cigtechs.com/mobile/home.asp#page-122
https://www.cigtechs.com/mobile/product.asp?itemid=402
Underneath it it says I can order the head and cap for them so I'm going to do that. What is the thing on this tank that I'm going to have to replace once a week? I'd like to order it all at once. Is it this?
https://www.cigtechs.com/mobile/home.asp#page-122
A carto(mizer) also has a coil, but it is generally vertical . In a basic, single coil carto, the liquid is held in a metal casing filled with batting/filler where it comes in contact with the heat coil and produces vapor. A carto can be used by itself by just putting a drip tip in the top, but most of us use carto tanks.
A carto tank, such as an IBTanked, has a carto inside of a tank filled with liquid. The liquid is wicked into the carto through a small hole.
(see the hole?)
A carto tank, such as an IBTanked, has a carto inside of a tank filled with liquid. The liquid is wicked into the carto through a small hole.
Also if it's atomizers I'm going to be replacing what ohm is it that the provari uses?
ProVape recommends 3.0Ω for cartos, clearos, etc., however if that resistance isn't available, 2.5-3.2, whatever, is good,
With a variable voltage device you can use just about any common resistance. ProVape suggests medium/standard resistance to give more of a range of settings and better battery life.
I'm not sure what you mean by atomizers you will be replacing. I couldn't figure out what product you were referring to on the page you linked to.
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The Tatore tank you linked to is just a tube upgrade for a Protank - from glass to stainless steal. It takes the same heads as a Protank, which you can get from ProVape: ProTank Refill Heads - 5 Pack
They must have replacement heads on the Cigtech site somewhere, but I don't see them. Keep in mind that that the $34.99 is for the tube only, you will need to make sure you also order a cap and base.
If you don't mind me asking, why are you getting this tank?
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Cob - That tank you want looks nice and I'm sure it's more durable than glass and while I've never tried it, I've used other tanks that use the ProTank heads. I have over 100 heads as I was sure this was the type of tanks I wanted to use. They are easy to fill and the flavor is decent but could be better if the range of voltage was larger. If I turn up the voltage, the ProTank heads taste burnt. I had to keep my voltage lower than 4.0. Since Ocelot got me onto using cartos again, I wasn't noticing any flavor difference until I turned up the voltage. OMG, the flavor is awesome. It hooked me into changing over to cartos completely.
Another thing about the ProTank heads - with darker, thicker juices I'd only get a day or two out of them before having to change them. I was rebuilding them but it's kind of nice not having to rebuild heads every other day.
Another thing about the ProTank heads - with darker, thicker juices I'd only get a day or two out of them before having to change them. I was rebuilding them but it's kind of nice not having to rebuild heads every other day.
I posted this thread looking for the most rugged tough build that I could find as I keep destroying my e cigs. I've been vaping for about 3 months and I'm on my third e cig. The one I just ordered makes 4. Someone pointed out the ss tank and said there build was virtually indestructible.
That's along the lines that I was thinking. It is pretty, but pricy if one doesn't know whether or not they like a Protank.
ETA: I vape Protank 1s all the time, but I vape unflavored.
So anyone got a recommendation for a tank I'm not going to destroy all the time? I'm open to everything here
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