IPV4 preorder

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smacksy

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E-Cigarette Lobby had a killer coupon and they appeared to have black in stock. That was incorrect. My order has now been delayed twice and I have no idea when it will ship. There was nothing saying it was a preorder or would be backordered... I only found out after waiting 2 weeks and then inquiring about my order. I am dying from anticipation and wish I had just waited a cpl weeks and ordered from a US shop...
I never order anything from outside the US.. Never had a problem with on time deliveries either...good luck

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HDMontana

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Mine is out for delivery this afternoon! Can't wait...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

It's HERE! TaDaa! and it works great... so far!
Mine as well. I'm really liking this all black finish. Good fire button too. The button is a lot better than the one on my silver ipv4. I just hope I don't experience the problems, with the black one, that some other people have been experiencing.

HD
 

Nibiru2012

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Mine as well. I'm really liking this all black finish. Good fire button too. The button is a lot better than the one on my silver ipv4. I just hope I don't experience the problems, with the black one, that some other people have been experiencing.

HD

Ditto on that!
This kicks the Vapor Flask V3 by Kangxin all to pieces; the best MOD (so far) that I've ever used or owned.
Using my Kayfun V4 replicas by Tobeco this unit kicking out some serious vape and flavor.

I build my coils like this: 3.5mm ID coil (wound with a Duro Coiler) 10/11 wrap of 26ga. ni200 wire (very slightly spaced apart) @ .10 ohms and Ko Gen Do Japanese cotton. The Duro Coiler does a very neat precise coil tightly wound and snug, then I pull off the mandrel and gently space the wraps. I can do a coil from start to finish in about 4-5 minutes.

Sometimes I do a 9/10 wrap and get a 0.09 ohm coil.
I've noticed that using the 3.5mm mandrel on the coiler the number of wire wraps just about corresponds to the desired end resistance.

The 26ga nickel really holds its shape and spacing much better than the 28ga nickel. A strip of cotton a little wide than 3.5mm to give just a slightly snug fit.

Plus I'm able to do a burn-off if desired when changing wicks.
The wick last over twice as long as when I used Kanthal wire.

One thing I"ve noticed comparing the VF V3 to the iPV4 is that the iPV4 really kicks it.
At 20 Joules I'm getting a good hearty vape with lots of flavor and warm too. Temperature set at 420F
If I kick the Joules to the next memory setting at 30 Joules this puppy is cranking it.
For me the "sweet spot" is anywhere from 20 - 25 Joules, just wish I could save that 25 Joules setting.
Using a new matched set of the Efest Purple IMR18650 2500mAh 35A batteries. Will see tomorrow how the LG HE4 18650s do.
 
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chuckinclouds88

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Ditto on that!
This kicks the Vapor Flask V3 by Kangxin all to pieces; the best MOD (so far) that I've ever used or owned.
Using my Kayfun V4 replicas by Tobeco this unit kicking out some serious vape and flavor.

I build my coils like this: 3.5mm ID coil (wound with a Duro Coiler) 10/11 wrap of 26ga. ni200 wire (very slightly spaced apart) @ .10 ohms and Ko Gen Do Japanese cotton. The Duro Coiler does a very neat precise coil tightly wound and snug, then I pull off the mandrel and gently space the wraps. I can do a coil from start to finish in about 4-5 minutes.

Sometimes I do a 9/10 wrap and get a 0.09 ohm coil.
I've noticed that using the 3.5mm mandrel on the coiler the number of wire wraps just about corresponds to the desired end resistance.

The 26ga nickel really holds its shape and spacing much better than the 28ga nickel. A strip of cotton a little wide than 3.5mm to give just a slightly snug fit.

Plus I'm able to do a burn-off if desired when changing wicks.
The wick last over twice as long as when I used Kanthal wire.

One thing I"ve noticed comparing the VF V3 to the iPV4 is that the iPV4 really kicks it.
At 20 Joules I'm getting a good hearty vape with lots of flavor and warm too. Temperature set at 420F
If I kick the Joules to the next memory setting at 30 Joules this puppy is cranking it.
For me the "sweet spot" is anywhere from 20 - 25 Joules, just wish I could save that 25 Joules setting.
Using a new matched set of the Efest Purple IMR18650 2500mAh 35A batteries. Will see tomorrow how the LG HE4 18650s do.

I'm using LG HE4's in my black iPV4. They work exceptionally well. I'm getting all day life. Right now, I'm running a .127-ohm coil at 55.5 watts. I want to get a Derringer RDA for nickel for TC, but I don't have one yet. No nickel options currently so TC must wait. :(
 

sando7

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well i got my new replacement yesterday and i been using it.....have not gotten to the half mark yet on the batt reading; when i do i'll check the drainage...so far so good.....my screen is different on this one it's actually readable.

just for safety reasons i will not be leaving the batts in the device overnite, makes me sleep better.

and a very positive shout out to Vape Royalty for taking care of this situation in a first class manner and imo i would highly suggest them as a great Vendor to do business with. :)
 

stearic

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well i got my new replacement yesterday and i been using it.....have not gotten to the half mark yet on the batt reading; when i do i'll check the drainage...so far so good.....my screen is different on this one it's actually readable.

just for safety reasons i will not be leaving the batts in the device overnite, makes me sleep better.

and a very positive shout out to Vape Royalty for taking care of this situation in a first class manner and imo i would highly suggest them as a great Vendor to do business with. :)
Did you do the mirror fix on yours or did you wait to do it?
 

sando7

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the replacement came that way, i don't know what they did but it's not like the original.....a perfect spacing around the reading (not mirrored) & you can read it just fine & the rest of the screen is blked out....nice touch it must be a newer version.

edit: also a shout out @ Nibiru2012 for turning me on to deoxiT, this stuff does wonders on connections, you have to try it to believe the positive difference it makes.
 
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AgentZen

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I saw an old post from last tuesday about an IPV4 getting warm near the charging port. If your IPV4 is getting warm near the charging port, you need to file for a replacement or remove that thing before your IPV4 starts melting. I'm not kidding. It's been pretty well documented on reddit, but there is a clear issue with the balance board (chip that is used for the on-board charging) not being properly insulated on some IPV4s. This can lead to (from what I understand) your batteries venting, or your mod shorting out.

That said I got my black IPV4 yesterday. I verified that the thing worked and I pulled the balance board ASAP. I'm in love with the thing so far.
 
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Wraith504

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I saw an old post from last tuesday about an IPV4 getting warm near the charging port. If your IPV4 is getting warm near the charging port, you need to file for a replacement or remove that thing before your IPV4 starts melting. I'm not kidding. It's been pretty well documented on reddit, but there is a clear issue with the balance board not being properly insulated on some IPV4s. This can lead to (from what I understand) your batteries venting, or your mod shorting out.

That said I got my black IPV4 yesterday. I verified that the thing worked and I pulled the balance board ASAP. I'm in love with the thing so far.
Mine doesnt get warm at all, but I am wondering if i should remove it just to be on the safe side?
 
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smacksy

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Guess ill wait about a month or so before i do then. :thumbs:
Just for the record I've had my two IPV4's for awhile now vaping them everyday.. Not getting warm and no issues at all..still have the mirror display too.... I figure if it ain't broke don't fix it.. Lol

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sando7

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finally hit the half mark on the battery screen reading on my new IVP4 replacement & pulled batts out & checked with my DMM, draining perfectly as of now; man i'm very pleased...now back to the :vapor:

on an off topic thought, every-since i got my REO's i have sorta lost my enthusiasm in anything else, what a perfect vape/device that has totally spoiled me. :toast:

i do still wonder about the new Sig 75 tho, just might have to pick one up to satisfy my curiosity. :unsure:
 
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Nibiru2012

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Using my first set of batteries; the Efest 18650 2500 mAh 35A Purple ones, brand new and charged at .25 Amps on my Xtar VP1 charger.
(After purchasing these batteries I read where they may just be re-labled LG HE 4 units or similar. I saw on another website where a member had peeled the cover off the Efest Purple ones and sure enough they were LG HE2 units.)
So I'll wait and see. Don't know if I want to peel off the vinyl jacket just to satisfy my curiosity.

I've heard and read that it's best to charge new batteries at a low rate to ensure that they get the full charge.
It's been mentioned that fast charging may shorten the life of batteries over the long term.
Read about that on the Battery University website which is a vast storehouse of battery knowledge.
Put them in about 3PM Friday afternoon and they lasted till about 10AM Sunday morning. Really didn't change my vaping habits much either.

I used them until the screen said "Low Batteries" I believe. Put them back in the Xtar and they read respectively 3.06 and 3.03 vdc charge left. A 3/100th difference is not that big of a deal. Remember that 100ths of a volt or .01 volt. Quite minor in my opinion.

I now have my LG HE4 18650s in the MOD and will see what they come out as when I pull them down all the way. Right now it's about 5AM (yes I'm an insomniac) and the battery meter is reading approximately 75% battery life left. That's damn good! The iPV4 certainly seems to manage battery life much better than the Kangxin V3.
My LG HE4 batteries are a few months old, ordered them when I ordered my Kangxin. Kept them as labeled paired units and used and charged them as such.

Interesting to note that the Kangxin VF V3 replica MOD would stop firing at around 3.30 volts or so. So it appears the iPV4 is more efficient at handling battery life and usage.
 

Nibiru2012

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i always pull mine out around 3.7 to re-charge, takes less time to re-charge and supposedly increases battery cycles.

I was basically doing this the first time just to see where the iPV4's cutoff point is, it was not my intention to infer that I do this on a regular basis. :cool:

I usually pull my batteries when there's about a 20% level showing on the meter. I'll let you know where that's at with my iPV4 batteries voltage next time I pull them.

i respectfully disagree^^^^^^^^^
Whaaaa???
 
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