IPV4 preorder

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sando7

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well the new blackened window on the ipv4 that is described at vape Royalty is just a peel-on cause mine is already wanting to come off...i have a nice bubble with a small tear in it. :eek:.

HDM, no sweat and nothing i'm loosing sleep over, but yep i was cornfused myself, maybe just a newb thing going on.
some folks don't understand the process of elimination for prob solving.
 

Taowulf

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well the new blackened window on the ipv4 that is described at Vape Royalty is just a peel-on cause mine is already wanting to come off...i have a nice bubble with a small tear in it. :eek:.

HDM, no sweat and nothing i'm loosing sleep over, but yep i was cornfused myself, maybe just a newb thing going on.
some folks don't understand the process of elimination for prob solving.


Are you sure that isn't the protective film for shipping that all plastic screens have?
 
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iZEddie

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It does fire down to 0.05, there's confusion in the spec sheet - Yihi said something much higher, but then Pioneer4You recommended a range of 0.05Ω to 0.10Ω. It definitely fires to 0.05Ω and says Low Resistance below that.



No I have the opposite problem - Set Resistance usually reads a little lower than my other mods/DMM ohms reader. Like a 0.12 will probably read 0.10Ω, at least when I'm doing Set Resistance. I haven't checked the normal on-screen reading carefully but assume it's the same. This is not uncommon I've heard.

First thing you can do is carefully clean the 510 with alcohol (99% IPA preferably, 70% is OK too). As well as a big bottle I also buy little swabs, that are sold as pre-injection swabs for nurses. Little pads soaked with 70% IPA. I take one of those and then with the head of a screwdriver or tweezers I push it into the 510 and then all around it, rotating it. Often I get a lot of black stuff when I clean a 510 for the first time in a while.

I also have a couple of spare toothbrushes which are great for cleaning threads. I spray a little 99% IPA on the bristles and then scrub round the 510 heads and gently on the pin.

That said a difference of 0.15Ω sounds pretty high, too high for dirt alone in most circumstances. it might be the wiring inside the 510. If you're technical it's very easy to get the cover off and inspect the inside of the 510 - maybe a wire is coming loose or the pin has sunk so that you're not getting a firm connection.

If you're not comfortable doing that, a return is your only option.

The resistance reading is vital for accurate TC and reading 0.15Ω too high will make TC widely inaccurate - like hundreds of degrees out. It should be usable for non-TC Kanthal still.

Here's a couple of photos I took of the inside, around the 510, in case that helps give an idea of what's in there.



Thank you for the advice man, im going try it tonight when i get home
 
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Taowulf

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The one I got has the new blackened screen it had the clear protective sticker over it as most do. The new look is awesome with the silver and black.

Right, and that sticker is not meant to stay on like a screen protector you might put on a smartphone or tablet...they are there to protect it until received by the consumer and will of course be mangled by normal use.

Oh wait, you are not the guy originally commenting on how his had a tear.
 

TheBloke

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Ooh, IPV4 FW update coming in one week!

I emailed Piooner4 to ask why there was still no FW update for IPV4, as the IPV4 has had one already. They just got back to me to say :

yes,
the new ipv4 software will be upload one week later

In my email I specifically asked about Titanium support, because that has been added to the IPV43 already. I don't yet know if this reply confirms it will have Titanium or not. I have replied to ask for more details.

Anyway, good news - finally an update for the IPV4! I really hope it fixes some of the annoying bugs, as well as adding Titanium.
 

tehmidcap

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Nice! Extra glad I decided to go for it (IPV4) now...

I just got mine (my first one) and the temp control definitely works better than the shoddy chipset on the EHPro's that I hastily decided to pre-order. I did get the Silver with the mirrored screen but I figure that I'll pretty much be able to set it to how I like it and forget it so I can't imagine needing to fiddle with the menu much while outside anyway, and it looks easy enough to buff that finish off if I decide to do that.

And so now that I'm actually dealing with real temperature here, what's the temp limit that you guys set?

I tried a little cotton burn test at 300F and it wouldn't even attempt to fire, I thought that was cool (the EHpro and I know some other mods have that little ramp up "preheat" time before it's actually sensing or cutting back/off)... but then I just put my tank together and wanted to start vaping. Right now I have it set to 30J and 420F and it's vaping pretty nice, but I was just wondering how high I can actually push it and still avoid any dry hits/juice burning?

Also, if I turn the device off or swap batteries with the resistance that I made it lock into (by pressing + and -) stay locked in? Does it maintain that resistance until you read a new one?
 

tehmidcap

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I heard a couple people say something about a 120W upgrade, not sure if that came from reliable sources though.

FYI, I removed the mirror finish in front of my screen already (day one). Not because it was necessary but I just wanted to... It's nice and bright now. Simple enough to do with some iso alcohol and a cotton ball.... Eventually I think I'm gonna remove the finish from the entire thing and put a vinyl wrap or something behind everything but the screen.
 

TheBloke

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I know what you mean. I got a flask clone and then my 2 IPV4's. Only use kanthal coils at work. When I'm home, it's TP all the time.

HD

That's unusual, why Kanthal at work and TC at home? I would have guessed the other way around - at home you can be more vigilant about a Kanthal build, could use drippers etc if that's your thing, and you could have hotter/more vapour if you want it; at work one would tend to want a "vape and forget it" experience with, if anything, lesser heat/smaller clouds, and perhaps using a big tank so don't need to keep re-filling and so TC protection is more useful.

Just interested to hear what you don't use TC out? :)
 

Nibiru2012

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The iPV4 does remember the ohms settings when changing the batteries out, also it will remember the custom Joules setting such as say 23 Joules.
But, if you bump the Joules memory button or the (-) button it will change. Too bad we're still unable to store custom Joules settings as we do with
the wattage settings.

Maybe the next firmware update will take care of that issue, keep our finger crossed for that one though! :smokie:
 
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