Hi MV!I'm a newb and trying to understand this, But isn't that what TC is supposed to do? Fires up to your set temp and then hits Temp Protection and lowers your wattage to maintain that temp so the cotton does not burn?
Now I am wondering if you had the Ohm's locked in correctly (room temperature) prior to doing the Rayon wick burn? I read people trying to get higher temps by putting on a heated coil and then setting/locking the ohms.
Please NO offense here, I am trying to learn from you, before I go and try this! I bought the nickel Ccell coils and my first attempt at TC was horrible! 3 tank fulls of nasty and bland tasting vape! This last attempt in TC with the same coil was better, but still not great! So I am still trying to figure it out!
Also I noticed I have to hit the vape harder and longer to get the same result as in power mode, is this normal for TC?
I am just trying to learn before I go out and get both a RTA and a rda! Thank you for any input!
No offense taken at all and yes that is what TC is supposed to do. I fought with a VTC Mini FW 1.10 for a month before I took it back to the B&M to exchange for a iPV D2. I had higher hopes for the Cuboid thinking that Joyetech might have fixed the TC problems from the Mini but they seemed to have carried them on through.
I really hope the Vape Forward gear works better, since they are using a Joyetech chip as well.
The problem with the TC function of the Cuboid is a weak vape and the device hitting TP almost immediately. I put a 28g 0.09 ohm coil on the Flash e-Vapor VS (quick to coil and test) and mounted it on the Cuboid. Locked in the ohms at 0.09 and hit fire, got a half second of vapor then the TP screen kicked in and power dropped to 1.5W. When power drops below a certain level there is just no vape at all. I watched the screen and the power moved between 1.5W, 5W, 8W then back up to 13W for a split second and little vapor production, then back down to 1.5W again. The whole time it stays below 13W it might as well be the same as taking your finger off the power button, you will notice the drop outs in power reflected in your vape quality. Now I put the same atty on the iPV D2 and it vapes fine. The iPV D2 does not have the TP screen, it will kill all power to the coil when the wick is dry and put up a No Liquid screen, which works perfectly by the way. Unfortunately the D2 has no SS support and the TC resistance range for Ti is very tiny (0.05 - 0.3 ohms) and that severely limits your coil building options.
The resistance was locked at all times, room temp coil, everything let cool etc... I've jumped through all those hoops in the VTC Mini thread. I even had some users that thought they were "In The Know" tell me that:
1. This was normal operation just turn up the Temp to 600F for better vape.
(Cotton is not going to burn there now is it...)
2. It was because of a Clone Atty.
(I should spend $200+ to get an Authentic Flash e-Vapor V3 landed to put on a $35 mod...)
3. Should be using 30g Ni200 for better results.
(That is like building a coil out of thread, I'd rather slit my throat...)
4. I just basically didn't know how to build or what I was doing...
(This must be the case as everything working the way it should on the iPV D2, doesn't count.)
The Rayon scorched black immediately at 420, 400 and 380 so I didn't test any further.
Like I stated earlier I'll keep this mod as I like the size and it will put out 150W with the VTC4's, I picked it up cheap enough, unlike the VTC Mini which was not worth keeping as a single battery non TC mod.
I don't do any coil heads of any kind, all of my tanks have been rebuildable since I picked up my first Kayfun, so I can't offer and help with the cCells.