Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt

[Mrmik]

Been using Smok VCT with NI coil for a few hours today to compare to Ijust 2 tank. On a note, Herakles, Atlantis and Melo tanks share the same coils and are interchangeable.
540 degree and 60W setting was used on both incl Ego ONE MEga. Not so impressed since my first introduction to TC was with a Ego ONE Mega. It had a better more dense vapor than these two tanks with bigger coils. But, it seem that flavor is more consistent with them than the Ego ONE and I think I can conclude that it does not wick good enough. The juice ports on VCT coil are larger than Ijust 2 coil and Ego ONE CL coil the smallest. In a way I like the petite coil/tank better because of the density of vapor and flavor but for consistency, wicking and coil longevity, the bigger ones are better. However, I am now set on to try Ego ONE CLR coils since juice ports are much larger than the standard CL coils which I have been using.
Ijust 2 EC NI .15 ohm
VCT NI .20 ohm
Ego One CL NI .24 ohm
Ego One CL TI .40 ohm

I now have the Ego ONE Mega tank with a kanthal CLR coil at .5 ohm. Set the mod to 20 W and 3.1 V. It performs better and gives out more vapor/flavor than VCT and Ijust 2 tanks with TC.
Originally, I had the Ego ONE CLR coil on a XL tank paired with Ego ONE 1100 mah battery but it was too much since power is not regulated and therefore the coil got all the power it wanted. With some dry hits and short life as a result. 20W and 3.1V seem to do it very well.

Ego ONE coils are so frigging small for a subohm set up. Does the smaller coil design affect the performance with more dense rich vapor? How about the newly released Eleaf GS Air TC coils? They are very small too. Other coils?

 

[Bikenstein]

Been using Smok VCT with NI coil for a few hours today to compare to Ijust 2 tank. On a note, Herakles, Atlantis and Melo tanks share the same coils and are interchangeable.
540 degree and 60W setting was used on both incl Ego ONE MEga. Not so impressed since my first introduction to TC was with a Ego ONE Mega. It had a better more dense vapor than these two tanks with bigger coils. But, it seem that flavor is more consistent with them than the Ego ONE and I think I can conclude that it does not wick good enough. The juice ports on VCT coil are larger than Ijust 2 coil and Ego ONE CL coil the smallest. In a way I like the petite coil/tank better because of the density of vapor and flavor but for consistency, wicking and coil longevity, the bigger ones are better. However, I am now set on to try Ego ONE CLR coils since juice ports are much larger than the standard CL coils which I have been using.
Ijust 2 EC NI .15 ohm
VCT NI .20 ohm
Ego One CL NI .24 ohm
Ego One CL TI .40 ohm

I now have the Ego ONE Mega tank with a kanthal CLR coil at .5 ohm. Set the mod to 20 W and 3.1 V. It performs better and gives out more vapor/flavor than VCT and Ijust 2 tanks with TC.
Originally, I had the Ego ONE CLR coil on a XL tank paired with Ego ONE 1100 mah battery but it was too much since power is not regulated and therefore the coil got all the power it wanted. With some dry hits and short life as a result. 20W and 3.1V seem to do it very well.

Ego ONE coils are so frigging small for a subohm set up. Does the smaller coil design affect the performance with more dense rich vapor? How about the newly released Eleaf GS Air TC coils? They are very small too. Other coils?

I built a GS Air M coil at .065 and it vaped good with 75VG juice. It really needs the slots opened a bit though.

 

[Mrmik]

Someone mentioned using Subtank with stock nickel coils at the max 600 degrees and was not happy with vapor production.
Wonder if the low vapor production is the price for the peace of no dry hits?
Hey, coils are so low as .15 ohm so I think I would expect more vapor than a standard Kanthal .5 ohm?

In comparison:
Evic VT with Smok VCT, Nickel coil at .25 ohm. 560 degree 60 W. Long drags (hard work) is needed to get adequate vapor production but it is not that dense.
iStick 50W with Ego ONE Mega, Kanthal CLR coil at .5 ohm. 20W 3.1V. Short to medium drags (easy work) are fine to produce enough vapor with great density.

Can this be explained, anyone?

Note that I also have tried Ijust 2 tank and the results were similar to Smok VCT. Gets me to think that Atlantis, Melo, Herakles and Silo would be the same since they all share the same coils.

Oh yeah, before you ask, I did not try .06 ohm in a GS Air.... not yet.......

 

[Bikenstein]

Good vape .... Evod TC..

 

[skyboxer1968]

Someone mentioned using Subtank with stock nickel coils at the max 600 degrees and was not happy with vapor production.
Wonder if the low vapor production is the price for the peace of no dry hits?
Hey, coils are so low as .15 ohm so I think I would expect more vapor than a standard Kanthal .5 ohm?

In comparison:
Evic VT with Smok VCT, Nickel coil at .25 ohm. 560 degree 60 W. Long drags (hard work) is needed to get adequate vapor production but it is not that dense.
iStick 50W with Ego ONE Mega, Kanthal CLR coil at .5 ohm. 20W 3.1V. Short to medium drags (easy work) are fine to produce enough vapor with great density.

Can this be explained, anyone?

Note that I also have tried Ijust 2 tank and the results were similar to Smok VCT. Gets me to think that Atlantis, Melo, Herakles and Silo would be the same since they all share the same coils.

Oh yeah, before you ask, I did not try .06 ohm in a GS Air.... not yet.......

The only things I have found that cause poor vapor production is inadequate juice flow and a falsely low resistance lock.
You might try dripping some juice down the chimney and see if vapor production increases for a hit or two.

 

[cigatron]

Someone mentioned using Subtank with stock nickel coils at the max 600 degrees and was not happy with vapor production.
Wonder if the low vapor production is the price for the peace of no dry hits?
Hey, coils are so low as .15 ohm so I think I would expect more vapor than a standard Kanthal .5 ohm?

In comparison:
Evic VT with Smok VCT, Nickel coil at .25 ohm. 560 degree 60 W. Long drags (hard work) is needed to get adequate vapor production but it is not that dense.
iStick 50W with Ego ONE Mega, Kanthal CLR coil at .5 ohm. 20W 3.1V. Short to medium drags (easy work) are fine to produce enough vapor with great density.

Can this be explained, anyone?

Res has little to do with vapor production on regulated devices as long as you're operating within the voltage and current limitations of the device. Juice flow and airflow are the vapor makers.
In the case of tc, poor juice flow or airflow will result in the tc mod turning down the wattage to stave off burny hits. Watch the wattage display in a mirror while vaping in tc mode and you'll see which toppers and coils work best. None of the toppers you mentioned above are what I would consider cloud machines. A Subtank mini however will chuck some pretty decent clouds and flavor for days with a Ni or Ti build on the rba deck.

 

[JeremyR]

In Sweden some people have problem that the temp protection dont kick in. You guys dont have that problem?

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No, but theres a good possibility they have the incorrect wire. That would cause the temp curves to be way off...

They never said anything about dry hits did they?

 

[JeremyR]

The only things I have found that cause poor vapor production is inadequate juice flow and a falsely low resistance lock.
You might try dripping some juice down the chimney and see if vapor production increases for a hit or two.

Yeah that would cause it.. How do you get a low res lock?.. Well I guess with a partial short in the beginning that clears to the actual resistance.. But it will hold onto the lower resistance for a while I believe.

 

[Mrmik]

Res has little to do with vapor production on regulated devices as long as you're operating within the voltage and current limitations of the device. Juice flow and airflow are the vapor makers.
In the case of tc, poor juice flow or airflow will result in the tc mod turning down the wattage to stave off burny hits. Watch the wattage display in a mirror while vaping in tc mode and you'll see which toppers and coils work best. None of the toppers you mentioned above are what I would consider cloud machines. A Subtank mini however will chuck some pretty decent clouds and flavor for days with a Ni or Ti build on the rba deck.

Oh yeah, all the tanks I have (Subtank mini, 4 VCT, Ijust 2 and Ego ONE) might not fall into the category of "cloud machines" BUT they DO produce decent and satisfying vapors. That is, with a kanthal coil, whether stock or rebuild. That is what I am trying to point out as I expected better vapor production than what I am getting. No matter if I change the settings on the VT, unlocked or locked, it is still the same and I am thinking more and more that the NI and TI coils in Ego One are better even though the juice flow is not adequate. Gonna try the CLR variant of these. I also just got the newer version of Subtank RBA so will await to do a nickel build on it once I get the wire.

 

[Mrmik]

Res has little to do with vapor production on regulated devices as long as you're operating within the voltage and current limitations of the device. Juice flow and airflow are the vapor makers.
In the case of tc, poor juice flow or airflow will result in the tc mod turning down the wattage to stave off burny hits. Watch the wattage display in a mirror while vaping in tc mode and you'll see which toppers and coils work best. None of the toppers you mentioned above are what I would consider cloud machines. A Subtank mini however will chuck some pretty decent clouds and flavor for days with a Ni or Ti build on the rba deck.

I am also reluctant to state poor juice flow since I have had 2 of Ijust 2 and one of VCT nickel coils. Those have 4 large juice port holes and on the kanthal VCT coils, it is VERY RARE I get a dry hit. Airflow in the Ijust 2 tank is greater than the VCT but still no good. Oh yeah, I do see VT goes into temp protection mode after a short while and jumps back and forth to say 17W, 12W, 21W and so on, always below 30W.

 

[Bikenstein]

The VT flashes temperature protection every time it hits the pre-set. I'd like to see it give a temp reading all the way through the vape instead.

 

[cigatron]

Oh yeah, all the tanks I have (Subtank mini, 4 VCT, Ijust 2 and Ego ONE) might not fall into the category of "cloud machines" BUT they DO produce decent and satisfying vapors. That is, with a kanthal coil, whether stock or rebuild. That is what I am trying to point out as I expected better vapor production than what I am getting. No matter if I change the settings on the VT, unlocked or locked, it is still the same and I am thinking more and more that the NI and TI coils in Ego One are better even though the juice flow is not adequate. Gonna try the CLR variant of these. I also just got the newer version of Subtank RBA so will await to do a nickel build on it once I get the wire.

Did you ever try a Ni or Ti build on your V1 STmini rba? I have 3, one for each of my VTs. Nothing wrong with the original design imo, in fact I prefer them over the V2 rba ie. no leaking or inconsistencies in juice flow.
As far as factory coils go the clrs are pretty good. The kanger occ coils are good too but neither can hold a candle to the STmini rba. Now that I've learned how to dryburn Ti coils the whole dryburn and rewicking process is under 7 min long. I still keep a few occ coils around just in case but haven't had to use any of them in 4 months. Sorry if I sound like a Kanger rep, I'm just happier than ever with my vape these days.

 

[cigatron]

I am also reluctant to state poor juice flow since I have had 2 of Ijust 2 and one of VCT nickel coils. Those have 4 large juice port holes and on the kanthal VCT coils, it is VERY RARE I get a dry hit. Airflow in the Ijust 2 tank is greater than the VCT but still no good. Oh yeah, I do see VT goes into temp protection mode after a short while and jumps back and forth to say 17W, 12W, 21W and so on, always below 30W.

Yep, that's a juice and/or airflow limitation alright. My STmini rbas run at 30-35w while bouncing off a tp set at 480-530°f (juice dependent).

All of those factory wick heads have an inherent design flaw, the wicking blocks off the juice holes which then restrains the free movement of air into the tank after each vape. The tank pressure is lower (more vacuum) which restrains juice flow to the coil. The STmini V1 doesn't suffer from this problem because the wick tails don't interfere with the movement of air into the tank. As a result the tank pressure is higher (less vacuum) which allows for more juice flow during the vape. The higher pressure you can have in a tank (without causing leaks or flooding) the better.

To test my theory ( it's not) crack open your tank for ten seconds to break the tank vacuum and then vape. You'll see your wattage increase befor hitting tp and lots more vapor production for a pull or two. Once the tank redevelops vacuum your wattage and vapor will drop.

 

[AlaskaVaper]

Did you ever try a Ni or Ti build on your V1 STmini rba? I have 3, one for each of my VTs. Nothing wrong with the original design imo, in fact I prefer them over the V2 rba ie. no leaking or inconsistencies in juice flow.
As far as factory coils go the clrs are pretty good. The kanger occ coils are good too but neither can hold a candle to the STmini rba. Now that I've learned how to dryburn Ti coils the whole dryburn and rewicking process is under 7 min long. I still keep a few occ coils around just in case but haven't had to use any of them in 4 months. Sorry if I sound like a Kanger rep, I'm just happier than ever with my vape these days.

I agree with cigatron, that the stock coils on tank devices are not performing up to the expectations of many of us because juice flow is not adequate to provide the wick saturation necessary to keep TC performing at high levels and that the TC controls drive temp at the coils to lower power levels thereby reducing the warmth we have come to expect from prior Kanthal use. When using kanthal I find that the vape quality is as good as on using any other non TC device. I have come to my conclusion on this after using several RDA's on my Evics. For example, using a Velocity RDA with a Ti build on the Evic I get wonderful flavor and cloud production. However, this only occurs after a fresh saturation of the wicks and will only last for 6 or 7 pulls before TC begins to sense that the wicks are beginning to lose saturation and thus begins cutting back on power to the coils which is clearly noticably by me as a need to provide another 12 or so drops of fluid, If I do not add more fluid the vape continues to lessen in both flavor and volume until at the extreme there is only a weak cool vapor production. Therefore, I have to conclude that the wick saturation is the key as I am in literal control of that function. Adding another 12 or more drops of fluid returns the high volume vapor and flavor production. The only problem is that the amount of liquid consumed by this method required by an RDA is quite high thus a juice hog so to speak. I hope this provides some insight of my understanding of how TC is working for me.

 

[Mrmik]

Did you ever try a Ni or Ti build on your V1 STmini rba? I have 3, one for each of my VTs. Nothing wrong with the original design imo, in fact I prefer them over the V2 rba ie. no leaking or inconsistencies in juice flow.
As far as factory coils go the clrs are pretty good. The kanger occ coils are good too but neither can hold a candle to the STmini rba. Now that I've learned how to dryburn Ti coils the whole dryburn and rewicking process is under 7 min long. I still keep a few occ coils around just in case but haven't had to use any of them in 4 months. Sorry if I sound like a Kanger rep, I'm just happier than ever with my vape these days.

I used to be a Kanger guy so no worry there sounding like a rep.
Yeah, I do have one original V1 RBA but once wire arrives, I will then conclude what is what for the TC. If it is all a bogus, that would not surprise me as I am always wondering how the heck does the mod read the temp right at the coil? there is no probe or anything like that. My Ijust 2 tank got so really hot that I could not touch it and STILL the same flash on and off temp protection, SAME timing etc even though I got a very varm vape. I was expecting the temp protection to kick in earlier.

 

[Mrmik]

okay @AlaskaVaper and @cigatron. You have gone in good detail and I am now more impatient to try my own NI/TI builds. Then we will see.
Of course, I am aware that RDA and RTA's etc with custom builds provide good vapor but what I am still not getting is that stock Kanthal coils are performing better than stock NI coils. Heh......

 

[AlaskaVaper]

okay @AlaskaVaper and @cigatron. You have gone in good detail and I am now more impatient to try my own NI/TI builds. Then we will see.
Of course, I am aware that RDA and RTA's etc with custom builds provide good vapor but what I am still not getting is that stock Kanthal coils are performing better than stock NI coils. Heh......

It is because you are using nickel on temp control mode and the kanthal in the watts mode most likely. If you wanted to live dangerously try some brief pulls using the Ni coils in watts mode and you will find that the coils are not the problem but, rather is is the temp limiting in TC mode that makes this difference. I find that the Evic with kanthal performs in wattage mode just as well as any other regular non TC device.

 

[coilburner]

I know this has been discussed in this thread but I cant find it.
Im having the problem of it jumping out of temp mode when I use my rda with nickel wire. Sometimes I can go and mess with the screws and It will work for few puffs. I have spent hours trying to get it stay in temp mode by making sure all connections are good and building different coils but I cant get it to constantly stay in temp mode unless I build close to .2 ohms. If I go anywhere near .05 ohms then if refuses to stay in temp mode and jumps into watts mode. Has anybody found a solution to this?

 

[KenD]

Haha. We have 60 f and Sun. Its summertime (I tried an online converter... Its 20 degree celcius here)

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Värsta svenska sommarn jag har upplevt...

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

 

[JeremyR]

I know this has been discussed in this thread but I cant find it.
Im having the problem of it jumping out of temp mode when I use my rda with nickel wire. Sometimes I can go and mess with the screws and It will work for few puffs. I have spent hours trying to get it stay in temp mode by making sure all connections are good and building different coils but I cant get it to constantly stay in temp mode unless I build close to .2 ohms. If I go anywhere near .05 ohms then if refuses to stay in temp mode and jumps into watts mode. Has anybody found a solution to this?

Don't build to .05 .. Maybe, possibly, your rda can't handle it -and be stable.

For it to switch to vw a resistance of 1 ohm needs to be detected, even for a millisecond.

How is a .05 coil being detected at 1 ohm. Well, any issue with coil connections, atty construction, contacts, 510, ect. Can cause an intermittent loss of connection causing the ohms to jump over 1ohm when the connection is almost lost.

This was never an issue or even ever noticed on previous vw mods.

I would not build below .1ohms on the evic. The manual states that from .1 to .05 it is limited to 50w for safety. This means its more stressed than it likes, and your losing available power by building too low...

For best results and most power I recommend to stay at or above .1 ohm