Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt

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USMCotaku

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My current ni build is at .08 and working great. Usually set around 420-450 @40 watts. In the v1 sub tank rba....dense vape, big clouds, lots of flavor.
As to the dropping out of tc thing, on my evic, EVERY time it's dropped out of tc, it's been the builds fault.....now I don't fuss with it, if I drop out of tc, I scrap the build and try again. I'm also doing all my wraps on s machine screw now for perfect spacing every time.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
 
I know this has been discussed in this thread but I cant find it.
Im having the problem of it jumping out of temp mode when I use my rda with nickel wire. Sometimes I can go and mess with the screws and It will work for few puffs. I have spent hours trying to get it stay in temp mode by making sure all connections are good and building different coils but I cant get it to constantly stay in temp mode unless I build close to .2 ohms. If I go anywhere near .05 ohms then if refuses to stay in temp mode and jumps into watts mode. Has anybody found a solution to this?
I was having the same problem trying ni200 in my billow v2, until I started trapping the wire under the screw heads instead of in the posts. Running .06 rock solid for the past two weeks.... My guess is that my screws were cutting into the leads and causing them to be unstable....
 

cigatron

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I was having the same problem trying ni200 in my billow v2, until I started trapping the wire under the screw heads instead of in the posts. Running .06 rock solid for the past two weeks.... My guess is that my screws were cutting into the leads and causing them to be unstable....
Curious, are you running single or dual coils in your billow2?
 

cigatron

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My current ni build is at .08 and working great. Usually set around 420-450 @40 watts. In the v1 sub tank rba....dense vape, big clouds, lots of flavor.
As to the dropping out of tc thing, on my evic, EVERY time it's dropped out of tc, it's been the builds fault.....now I don't fuss with it, if I drop out of tc, I scrap the build and try again. I'm also doing all my wraps on s machine screw now for perfect spacing every time.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
And I'm willing to bet you've never had a problem with dropping out of tc with spaced winds within the res range of the VT? It's not really possible with a spaced coil to get varying res changes as long as the connections are solid. I've been in vaping bliss with spaced Ti builds for weeks. Also, I think Ti builds are less likely to jump out of tc because of the lower tcr values even with .2 ohm builds. I started using Ti over Ni200 for the durability but the benifits may prove to be more beneficial than originally thought; the Ti coils dryburn to near perfect cleanliness. After 9 dryburns and well over 200ml of Naturally Extracted Tobacco juice (dirty as hell) ; see pics for kanthal vs. Ti builds:

IMG_20150726_093036_523-1.jpg


24g Kanthal .25 ohm dual coil build. 2.8mm spaced. Running at 35w per coil in my Plume Veil rda.

IMG_20150726_092844_409-1-1.jpg


26g Ti .20 ohm build. 2.8mm spaced. Running at 30-35w in tc on my STmini at 520°f.

Illustrated here is the difference in coil pitting and scale deposits on Ti vs. the kanthal arrangement after 9 dryburns and over 200ml of net juice. That shown, I have to admit I've not run out Ni200 builds to this level of endurance as Ni200 just seems too flimsy for my liking; couldn't wick it heavy enough for speedy juice transport without distorting the coil . The 26g G1-Ti so far has been flawless, and with proper rinsing with water after dryburning at 25w seems to prove effective for removing juice deposit accumulation and doesn't seem to add excessive pitting or corrosion as with kanthal.

If you want to try Ti Grade1 wire it can be had here pretty cheap:

Pure Titanium Wire - 100% Guarantee - Specific for Jewelry Surgical Gr – Unkamen Supplies
 
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Mrmik

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And I'm willing to bet you've never had a problem with dropping out of tc with spaced winds within the res range of the VT? It's not really possible with a spaced coil to get varying res changes as long as the connections are solid. I've been in vaping bliss with spaced Ti builds for weeks. Also, I think Ti builds are less likely to jump out of tc because of the lower tcr values even with .2 ohm builds. I started using Ti over Ni200 for the durability but the benifits may prove to be more beneficial than originally thought; the Ti coils dryburn to near perfect cleanliness. After 9 dryburns and well over 200ml of Naturally Extracted Tobacco juice (dirty as hell) ; see pics for kanthal vs. Ti builds:

View attachment 475282

24g Kanthal .25 ohm dual coil build. 2.8mm spaced. Running at 35w per coil in my Plume Veil rda.

View attachment 475283

26g Ti .20 ohm build. 2.8mm spaced. Running at 30-35w in tc on my STmini at 520°f.

Illustrated here is the difference in coil pitting and scale deposits on Ti vs. the kanthal arrangement after 9 dryburns and over 200ml of net juice. That shown, I have to admit I've not run out Ni200 builds to this level of endurance as Ni200 just seems too flimsy for my liking. The 26g G1-Ti so far has been flawless, and with proper rinsing with water after dryburning at 25w seems to prove effective for removing juice deposit accumulation and doesn't seem to add excessive pitting or corrosion as with kanthal.

Thanks for sharing this in detail with pictures.

I see that you are using V1 of STmini RBA. I have it here along with the new V2. Just looked at them and the basic concept for deck build is the same except that the juice ports on V2 is much larger and is moved up on the housing, 2 of them. The housing is aligned with the coil by a small screw on the side of housing.

Do you not have wicking issues with the V1 since I see the juice port holes are so damn small and that is why I put that aside for so long, had some dry hits with it before?

Where do you get your titanium wires? Not many vendors carry them and I guess I should start out with 26, 28 and 30 ga for CLR, STmini and Goblin builds.
 

coilburner

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I was having the same problem trying ni200 in my billow v2, until I started trapping the wire under the screw heads instead of in the posts. Running .06 rock solid for the past two weeks.... My guess is that my screws were cutting into the leads and causing them to be unstable....
It definitely tricky when tightening down the screws, you can easily snap the wire off if your turn the screw too much. Ill have to try this method.
 

AlaskaVaper

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And I'm willing to bet you've never had a problem with dropping out of tc with spaced winds within the res range of the VT? It's not really possible with a spaced coil to get varying res changes as long as the connections are solid. I've been in vaping bliss with spaced Ti builds for weeks. Also, I think Ti builds are less likely to jump out of tc because of the lower tcr values even with .2 ohm builds. I started using Ti over Ni200 for the durability but the benifits may prove to be more beneficial than originally thought; the Ti coils dryburn to near perfect cleanliness. After 9 dryburns and well over 200ml of Naturally Extracted Tobacco juice (dirty as hell) ; see pics for kanthal vs. Ti builds:

View attachment 475282

24g Kanthal .25 ohm dual coil build. 2.8mm spaced. Running at 35w per coil in my Plume Veil rda.

View attachment 475283

26g Ti .20 ohm build. 2.8mm spaced. Running at 30-35w in tc on my STmini at 520°f.

Illustrated here is the difference in coil pitting and scale deposits on Ti vs. the kanthal arrangement after 9 dryburns and over 200ml of net juice. That shown, I have to admit I've not run out Ni200 builds to this level of endurance as Ni200 just seems too flimsy for my liking; couldn't wick it heavy enough for speedy juice transport without distorting the coil . The 26g G1-Ti so far has been flawless, and with proper rinsing with water after dryburning at 25w seems to prove effective for removing juice deposit accumulation and doesn't seem to add excessive pitting or corrosion as with kanthal.

If you want to try Ti Grade1 wire it can be had here pretty cheap:

Pure Titanium Wire - 100% Guarantee - Specific for Jewelry Surgical Gr – Unkamen Supplies
Great photos. I find Ti very good wire also. Seems like a slightly better flavor production compared with Ni as well.
 
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It definitely tricky when tightening down the screws, you can easily snap the wire off if your turn the screw too much. Ill have to try this method.

I was having problem even when I didn't break the wire... Seems the screws were cutting into the wire without breaking it and causing issues... I really prefer the flavor I get out of Ti wire, just waiting on some more...lol
 

USMCotaku

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And I'm willing to bet you've never had a problem with dropping out of tc with spaced winds within the res range of the VT? It's not really possible with a spaced coil to get varying res changes as long as the connections are solid. I've been in vaping bliss with spaced Ti builds for weeks. Also, I think Ti builds are less likely to jump out of tc because of the lower tcr values even with .2 ohm builds. I started using Ti over Ni200 for the durability but the benifits may prove to be more beneficial than originally thought; the Ti coils dryburn to near perfect cleanliness. After 9 dryburns and well over 200ml of Naturally Extracted Tobacco juice (dirty as hell) ; see pics for kanthal vs. Ti builds:

View attachment 475282

24g Kanthal .25 ohm dual coil build. 2.8mm spaced. Running at 35w per coil in my Plume Veil rda.

View attachment 475283

26g Ti .20 ohm build. 2.8mm spaced. Running at 30-35w in tc on my STmini at 520°f.

Illustrated here is the difference in coil pitting and scale deposits on Ti vs. the kanthal arrangement after 9 dryburns and over 200ml of net juice. That shown, I have to admit I've not run out Ni200 builds to this level of endurance as Ni200 just seems too flimsy for my liking; couldn't wick it heavy enough for speedy juice transport without distorting the coil . The 26g G1-Ti so far has been flawless, and with proper rinsing with water after dryburning at 25w seems to prove effective for removing juice deposit accumulation and doesn't seem to add excessive pitting or corrosion as with kanthal.

If you want to try Ti Grade1 wire it can be had here pretty cheap:

Pure Titanium Wire - 100% Guarantee - Specific for Jewelry Surgical Gr – Unkamen Supplies
You are correct.... Only dropped out of tc once with ti...... Turned out I had a leg sticking out a hair to much and touched the chimney :p
 
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USMCotaku

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Help me out...I have the same wire. so:
-do you anneal it?
-how do you dry burn it? I have read so much about not dry firing Ti I want to follow a known good path.

I am so so so tired of not being re-wick nickel.
I rewick my nickel builds.... Clean with a soft toothbrush.... And you can dry fire in tc mode, it will heat the gun up just enough that water and soft toothbrush can clean much of it off
 

mc8

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I rewick my nickel builds.... Clean with a soft toothbrush.... And you can dry fire in tc mode, it will heat the gun up just enough that water and soft toothbrush can clean much of it off
isn't it easier to just build a new one? Also, really curious why your dropping out of temp control. It still hasn't happen to me in 2 months..different attys with ni or ti..?

Btw., guys, just had a thought today, how cool would it be if joyetech would make a vt mini. I would really love that as a more pocket friendly device. I have no problems at all with the chip, so lets cut the battery capacity and make it half as big!? :D
 

USMCotaku

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isn't it easier to just build a new one? Also, really curious why your dropping out of temp control. It still hasn't happen to me in 2 months..different attys with ni or ti..?

Btw., guys, just had a thought today, how cool would it be if joyetech would make a vt mini. I would really love that as a more pocket friendly device. I have no problems at all with the chip, so lets cut the battery capacity and make it half as big!? :D
I'm not dropping out of tc....i learned what works build wise and what to watch out for....
Sure rebuilding is easier..... But I'm a cheapskate.... Still playing my guitar with 3 year old strings, cause they still "work" :p
 
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Stosh

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Might be less even.... This giant box of rayon cost $15.... And it's probably a lifetime supply, even after pif'ing some
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

I bought a small bag of rayon from a vendor to try it out, see if it was any better than cotton. It was a buck a bag so I bought 3 bags, seemed reasonable....still haven't used 1/2 of the first bag I opened. The giant box would last for eons....:lol:
 

AnsonJames

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My current ni build is at .08 and working great. Usually set around 420-450 @40 watts. In the v1 sub tank rba....dense vape, big clouds, lots of flavor.
As to the dropping out of tc thing, on my evic, EVERY time it's dropped out of tc, it's been the builds fault.....now I don't fuss with it, if I drop out of tc, I scrap the build and try again. I'm also doing all my wraps on s machine screw now for perfect spacing every time.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

Interestingly, I have a dual coil Nickel build in my Zephyrus that isn't the best.

The Evic fires it perfectly in temp mode every time but my DNA 40 keeps kicking it in to wattage mode - as far as I can see the VT is a lot more stable when it comes to Nickel builds, even the crap ones.
 
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USMCotaku

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I bought a small bag of rayon from a vendor to try it out, see if it was any better than cotton. It was a buck a bag so I bought 3 bags, seemed reasonable....still haven't used 1/2 of the first bag I opened. The giant box would last for eons....:lol:
Tis what I'm sayin :p
 
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