Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt

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USMCotaku

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Interestingly, I have a dual coil Nickel build in my Zephyrus that isn't the best.

The Evic fires it perfectly in temp mode every time but my dna 40 keeps kicking it in to wattage mode - as far as I can see the VT is a lot more stable when it comes to Nickel builds, even the crap ones.
I couldn't say... Though I would like to try one, I've never had a dna40 mod
 

Shawn Hoefer

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Doing the math, I've come up with around $.0325 per coil using 30 ga. Ni200 and $.0286 using 28 ga. I use either a tiny bit of the 400-feet of rayon figuring 1/3 of a 3-inch strip... 4800 wicks per box coming out to $.0031 per wick, or a small piece of the 200 pads of Labo Japanese organic cotton I picker up for $5.99... they're 50x60 mm and I get about 10 wicks per sheet or 2000 wicks at $.0029.

Titanium is quite a bit spendier at $.129 per coil.

I figured 6-inches of wire per coil...

But who's counting?
 
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Nailz

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    Is there a big difference between nickel and titanium?

    Did my 1st nickel build on my subtank mini rba last weekend and it worked great, ohms stayed at 0.9 all the time, never jumped out of TC and vaped great, but then yesterday I tried to re-wick it, and when got everything back together, it kept hitting temp protection and hardly any vapor, so said sod it and did a new coil, but still did the same thing.

    I tried the same coil on my vaporflask mini and has been vaping fine on it, so just threw a kanthal build back on the evic.

    I don't want to give up on it, as even though took me a long time to get into TC, I admit the flavor is awesome :)

    Hear more people saying they are liking titanium more over nickel, is it just easier to work with or is it just the way it vapes?
     

    cigatron

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    Thanks for sharing this in detail with pictures.

    I see that you are using V1 of STmini RBA. I have it here along with the new V2. Just looked at them and the basic concept for deck build is the same except that the juice ports on V2 is much larger and is moved up on the housing, 2 of them. The housing is aligned with the coil by a small screw on the side of housing.

    Do you not have wicking issues with the V1 since I see the juice port holes are so damn small and that is why I put that aside for so long, had some dry hits with it before?

    Where do you get your titanium wires? Not many vendors carry them and I guess I should start out with 26, 28 and 30 ga for CLR, STmini and Goblin builds.

    No probs with dryhitting on the V1 rba Mrmik. The juice channels are plenty big for up to 80vg at 30w with kanthal builds or 40w with Ni or Ti in tc. The key to getting these "kayfun style" build decks to rock is super heavy coil wicking with the wicktails just grazing the bottom of the juice well. Also make sure the wicktails are cleared away from the juice channels so that air can more easily enter the tank after each pull. When you get it right you'll see bubbles enter the tank after each vape or two.

    I get my Ti wire here:

    Pure Titanium Wire - 100% Guarantee - Specific for Jewelry Surgical Gr – Unkamen Supplies
     
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    cigatron

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    Help me out...I have the same wire. so:
    -do you anneal it?
    -how do you dry burn it? I have read so much about not dry firing Ti I want to follow a known good path.

    I am so so so tired of not being re-wick nickel.

    Yeah, I feel your pain on the flimsy Ni thing. Yes, I anneal the Ti wire with a bic lighter or torch before winding the coil.....just until it turns red....not too much or it will burn and develop heavy white colored Titanium oxides. The oxides are what some peeps are concerned about. Truth is, it washes right off with water. I dryburn in VW mode at 25w....not too much....just until it turns red...then wash and repeat. The Ti coil in the pic I posted a couple of pages back doesn't show any white oxides....all I did was dryburn and wash the oxides off with water and a soft toothbrush.
     

    AlaskaVaper

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    I was gifted some "bamboo rayon" to try from a member in Australia and used it for the first time earlier this week. I must say that I really like it. Seems equal, if not better than cotton. I find that I now need to put masking tape tags on my RDA's to keep track of what wire and wick is in which one.
     

    cigatron

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    cigatron

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    I find that I now need to put masking tape tags on my RDA's to keep track of what wire and wick is in which one.
    Lol, been there....now I have 3 STminis but they're all marked with different colored silicone tank seals instead of tape with scribbles.
     
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    Mrmik

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    No probs with dryhitting on the V1 rba Mrmik. The juice channels are plenty big for up to 80vg at 30w with kanthal builds or 40w with Ni or Ti in tc. The key to getting these "kayfun style" build decks to rock is super heavy coil wicking with the wicktails just grazing the bottom of the juice well. Also make sure the wicktails are cleared away from the juice channels so that air can more easily enter the tank after each pull. When you get it right you'll see bubbles enter the tank after each vape or two.

    I get my Ti wire here:

    Pure Titanium Wire - 100% Guarantee - Specific for Jewelry Surgical Gr – Unkamen Supplies

    Ah, great! Thanks!
    Yeah, I do always see the bubble come up in my VCT tanks after almost every or so vapes.

    Will be curious to do builds on both V1 and V2. Gonna get the Titanium wire first.
     
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    AlaskaVaper

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    Lol, been there....now I have 3 STminis but they're all marked with different colored silicone tank seals instead of tape with scribbles.
    I have been eyeing those colored vape bands but the are sure more pricy than masking tape. They would certainly be more pretty to look at however.
     
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    BlueridgeDog

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    I have been eyeing those colored vape bands but the are sure more pricy than masking tape. They would certainly be more pretty to look at however.

    I guess I am just weird...once I find a build I like it goes in all my atomizers.
     

    cigatron

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    I guess I am just weird...once I find a build I like it goes in all my atomizers.
    Lol, more like normal! Weird is when you land on a build and wicking combo that rocks hard only to tear it down the next day in the neverending search for vaping nirvana...also referred to by my wife as ocd.:D
     

    KenD

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    A percentage of a penny saved, is a percentage of a penny earned [emoji14]
    Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
    Put that in Swedish Crowns and it'll look more expensive. Been living here for more than five years and I still haven't gotten used to the extra zero in the prices (compared to Euro). For example, 100 euro isn't too bad for a bluray player, but 1000 sek sounds really expensive :)

    Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
     
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    KenD

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    Is there a big difference between nickel and titanium?

    Did my 1st nickel build on my subtank mini rba last weekend and it worked great, ohms stayed at 0.9 all the time, never jumped out of TC and vaped great, but then yesterday I tried to re-wick it, and when got everything back together, it kept hitting temp protection and hardly any vapor, so said sod it and did a new coil, but still did the same thing.

    I tried the same coil on my vaporflask mini and has been vaping fine on it, so just threw a kanthal build back on the evic.

    I don't want to give up on it, as even though took me a long time to get into TC, I admit the flavor is awesome :)

    Hear more people saying they are liking titanium more over nickel, is it just easier to work with or is it just the way it vapes?
    There's definitely a huge difference between ti and ni wire, even between tempered ni and ti. Ti is a lot sturdier. With (tempered) ni I have to be really careful when changing the Wick, not so with ti. On the other hand, with ti I have to slightly torch the wire before wrapping to make it useable (my ti is from zivipf).

    Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
     
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    cigatron

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    There's definitely a huge difference between ti and ni wire, even between tempered ni and ti. Ti is a lot sturdier. With (tempered) ni I have to be really careful when changing the Wick, not so with ti. On the other hand, with ti I have to slightly torch the wire before wrapping to make it useable (my ti is from zivipf).

    Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
    All too true kenD, have you noticed any diff in flavor between Ni and Ti? I haven't, which makes me wonder why anyone would want a Ni build. No benefit imo. So I have to anneal Ti to get good comformation to my winding mandrel, no big whoop, the benefits seem to outway the pita factor of Ni hands down. What you say?

    I might just add to that: The tcr curve of Ti is lower than Ni200 so my tc mod doesn't have to chase the res change all over the place. It makes for a smoother temp vape imo. Just sayn', don't hate.
     

    KenD

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    All too true kenD, have you noticed any diff in flavor between Ni and Ti? I haven't, which makes me wonder why anyone would want a Ni build. No benefit imo. So I have to anneal Ti to get good comformation to my winding mandrel, no big whoop, the benefits seem to outway the pita factor of Ni hands down. What you say?

    I might just add to that: The tcr curve of Ti is lower than Ni200 so my tc mod doesn't have to chase the res change all over the place. It makes for a smoother temp vape imo. Just sayn', don't hate.
    I don't notice any difference in flavour. I still use ni in single coil tanks from time to time, mostly because I'm a cheapskate and have plenty of nickel wire left :) The only real benefit of ni that I can think of is that it's low resistance might keep the VT from jumping into vw mode (if that's a problem at all, still waiting to get my VT).

    Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
     

    cigatron

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    I don't notice any difference in flavour. I still use ni in single coil tanks from time to time, mostly because I'm a cheapskate and have plenty of nickel wire left :) The only real benefit of ni that I can think of is that it's low resistance might keep the VT from jumping into vw mode (if that's a problem at all, still waiting to get my VT).

    Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

    I'm cheap too...lol. I have a bunch of unused tempered Ni200 layn' around tho. Ti just rocks for endurance. Something to consider with Ni is the high tcr values. It forces us to build with lower res; less coil winding options. With the lower tcr of Ti .25ohm coils are no problem....no fear of exceeding the max res for tc....so no fear of jumping out of of tc mode.
     
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