Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt

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cigatron

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He's just saying ohms law doesn't tell you what the amp draw will be on a regulated device....its a watts in=watts out, as your battery drains, to maintain watts out, the mod increases amp draw to make up the difference
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

I don't know too much about the chipsets in these newer devices but from my experience with voltage regulators there is no output current regulation going on per say. The voltage potential of the source, battery in this case, and the load resistance would determine output circuit current. The wattage value is merely calculated with max attainable wattage being determined by max attainable voltage; kicked in this case. Once the battery voltage drops below a certain point, max device wattage is no longer attainable. That said, I think the regulator uses increasing amounts of current from the battery to kick the voltage as the battery voltage potential decreases; becoming less and less efficient as the battery looses charge. Once the battery voltage potential and current reserves drop low enough the regulator can no longer kick the voltage high enough to reach max wattage; displayed or otherwise. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here. I'm always looking to be schooled.
 
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KenD

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I disagree.

Resistance, voltage, and current are real. Power is calculated.

Battery charge isn't a good factor either as the mod either bucks or boosts the current battery level. The math gets difficult for rough estimates when you use one part of Pout and one part of Pin.

Efficiency is the ability for the mod to put out exactly what is put in.

It can be calculated by:
Efficiency=Pout/Pin

1 is ideal. Most mods that I have looked at are around 94%+ (or 0.94+).

Not starting an electricity war but your statement is too general and leaves the reader to guess what you mean. Be technical and teach people something. If you generalize and sugar coat the theory you are doing them a disservice.

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Just saying that the ohms law calculation that works for mech mods doesn't apply to regulated mods. I use steam-engine as I'm no expert in these matters, but using the calculations on there it's clear that resistance change doesn't affect amp draw.

I believe the calculation goes like this:

Watts / battery charge = amps (modified by the device efficiency)

So,
42 watts / 4.2v = 10 amps

Battery drained to 3.2v
42w / 3.2v = 13 (or so) amps

...modified by the device efficiency of course.

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
 
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USMCotaku

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I don't know too much about the chipsets in these newer devices but from my experience with voltage regulators there is no output current regulation going on per say. The voltage potential of the source, battery in this case, and the load resistance would determine output circuit current. The wattage value is merely calculated with max attainable wattage being determined by max attainable voltage; kicked in this case. Once the battery voltage drops below a certain point, max device wattage is no longer attainable. That said, I think the regulator uses increasing amounts of current from the battery to kick the voltage as the battery voltage potential decreases; becoming less and less efficient as the battery looses charge. Once the battery voltage potential and current reserves drop low enough the regulator can no longer kick the voltage high enough to reach max wattage; displayed or otherwise. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here. I'm always looking to be schooled.
No, that's all still essentially true..... Some of the better chips are able to provide that wattage till end of battery life, but the rest is exactly what was being talked about.....amp draw on a regulated device is far more wattage dependent then resistance...... And ohms law won't tell you what that amp draw actually is, since battery level plays such a big part in it.
 
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cigatron

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Just saying that the ohms law calculation that works for mech mods doesn't apply to regulated mods. I use steam-engine as I'm no expert in these matters, but using the calculations on there it's clear that resistance change doesn't affect amp draw.

I believe the calculation goes like this:

Watts / battery charge = amps (modified by the device efficiency)

So,
42 watts / 4.2v = 10 amps

Battery drained to 3.2v
42w / 3.2v = 13 (or so) amps

...modified by the device efficiency of course.

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

Ok, I get what you're thinking but there's more to it than that. Resistance and voltage are the two factors related to current draw in both mechs and apvs. Look at the chart below to see the relationships. As atroph stated in his post voltage, res and current are real.....wattage is calculated. This is true for the mod but not the for coil. The mod provides voltage to the coil and the coil draws current from the mod based on that voltage and coil res. Wattage, in the form of heat is produced by the coil, not the mod. So wattage is real too in that sense.

So, if you get a handle on the ohms law formulas for mech mods it should become readily apparent to you that when you set a wattage value on your apv you are actually setting voltage; even though your apv is displaying the change in watts.

Ohm's_Law_Pie_chart.svg.png


So, in the end, your apv doesn't actually measure wattage or current draw even though it may display them. It only measures voltage.....even the res of your coil is a voltage measurement (voltage drop across a shunt resistor in the mod).

Of course it has been 30yrs since my formal electronics training, much has been developed in electronics since, but I'm pretty sure electrons still scurry around the same as back then.
 
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KenD

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Ok, I get what you're thinking but there's more to it than that. Resistance and voltage are the two factors related to current draw in both mechs and apvs. Look at the chart below to see the relationships. As atroph stated in his post voltage, res and current are real.....wattage is calculated. This is true for the mod but not the for coil. The mod provides voltage to the coil and the coil draws current from the mod based on that voltage and coil res. Wattage, in the form of heat is produced by the coil, not the mod. So wattage is real too in that sense.

So, if you get a handle on the ohms law formulas for mech mods it should become readily apparent to you that when you set a wattage value on your apv you are actually setting voltage; even though your apv is displaying the change in watts.

View attachment 480399

So, in the end, your apv doesn't actually measure wattage or current draw even though it may display them. It only measures voltage.....even the res of your coil is a voltage measurement (voltage drop across a shunt resistor in the mod).

Of course it has been 30yrs since my formal electronics training, much has been developed in electronics since, but I'm pretty sure electrons still scurry around the same as back then.
I totally trust you on this, but for someone who isn't an expert on this stuff it's far easier to base the calculations on what can be seen (particularly on tc mods where resistance, and thus voltage, fluctuates greatly - yes, watts do that as well, but at least there will be an absolute top level to use for amp draw calculations). I'm interested in making sure that my batteries can handle the abuse I put them to, and for that the wattage / battery charge level calculation is the best/simplest.

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cigatron

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Phil Brusardo did a review recently that said they were removing the firmware check feature. All the recently produced mods will have it disabled.

PB also originally did a vid giving the VT60 1.18's a thumbs down:rolleyes: I guess I disagree with that assessment as I now own three 1.18's....just say'n.....:p
 

AlaskaVaper

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PB also originally did a vid giving the VT60 1.18's a thumbs down:rolleyes: I guess I disagree with that assessment as I now own three 1.18's....just say'n.....:p
I totally agree with your assessment Cigatron. I have two Evics and feel that for TC they are very good devices. The method of operating the menu features, once getting accustomed to how to use the spring-loaded toggle, is a really wonderful feature and very simple to operate. This feature is a great advancement in my opinion. The temp control works very well even though it may not be quite as accurate as some other mods but the user soon gets accustomed to tailoring it to ones personal preferences. The LiPo built in battery is another great aspect as it gives plenty of power and does not run down as rapidly as 18650's. Recharging is reasonably fast and while charging it provides pass thru so one can vape while the battery charges. For the price without the tank at $45 you just can't beat it. Now that China has devalued its currency, who knows but, they may get even cheaper. I have a recently acquired X=Cube II that is also a great TC device that is right up there with the Evic. I have also recently obtained a ZERO TC mod from China that has a feature I have long wanted called "nickel purity" that allows one to customize the Temp coefficient for various wire and it uses an SXK chip that is now available in a number of Chinese clones. Lots of choices out there but for the starting TC user looking for a great performing device I don't think one can go wrong with the Evic.
 

Shawn Hoefer

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I totally agree with your assessment Cigatron. I have two Evics and feel that for TC they are very good devices. The method of operating the menu features, once getting accustomed to how to use the spring-loaded toggle, is a really wonderful feature and very simple to operate. This feature is a great advancement in my opinion. The temp control works very well even though it may not be quite as accurate as some other mods but the user soon gets accustomed to tailoring it to ones personal preferences. The LiPo built in battery is another great aspect as it gives plenty of power and does not run down as rapidly as 18650's. Recharging is reasonably fast and while charging it provides pass thru so one can vape while the battery charges. For the price without the tank at $45 you just can't beat it. Now that China has devalued its currency, who knows but, they may get even cheaper. I have a recently acquired X=Cube II that is also a great TC device that is right up there with the Evic. I have also recently obtained a ZERO TC mod from China that has a feature I have long wanted called "nickel purity" that allows one to customize the Temp coefficient for various wire and it uses an SXK chip that is now available in a number of Chinese clones. Lots of choices out there but for the starting TC user looking for a great performing device I don't think one can go wrong with the Evic.
I am torn between grabbing a "nickel purity" mod, the SMY TC60 (love that screen), or waiting on the Asolo or Wotofo... I'll be interested in your feedback on the Zero...
 
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