Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt

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BNEAT

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Ah ha well that's it then. 1.7V is more than enough to push the temp and resistance up. It's daft though that it shows the post-probe resistance. I would say let's hope it doesn't use that post-probe resistance for TC, but clearly it can't based on your using it at 240°C.

Does it have refinement? Someone was mentioning resistance dropping over time by about 0.02Ω. Is that common, or just his mod?
I hope it's not common, but mine is still doing it. The higher the resistance, the more it drops, but only after it sits idle for a while (5-10 minutes)
 
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TheBloke

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Hmm. How does this compare to other mods?

For example, you put a build on the VT, it reads - let's say - 0.40Ω then after 10 mins it reads 0.38Ω or whatever. What does it read if you put it on another mod, before and/or after it's read 0.40 - 0.38Ω on the VT?

I'm wondering if it's a similar thing to what Tony is reporting, where it boosts the coil up at the start of the vape and then it settles down. Except Tony's stays high and yours doesn't.

Hence knowing how these readings - the original and the later lower one - compare to other mods, preferably good ones (any dna 40 or SX Mini M ideally)
 

BNEAT

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Hmm. How does this compare to other mods?
For example, you put a build on the VT, it reads - let's say - 0.40Ω then after 10 mins it reads 0.38Ω or whatever. What does it read if you put it on another mod, before and/or after it's read 0.40 - 0.38Ω on the VT?
I'm wondering if it's a similar thing to what Tony is reporting, where it boosts the coil up at the start of the vape and then it settles down. Except Tony's stays high and yours doesn't.
Hence knowing how these readings - the original and the later lower one - compare to other mods, preferably good ones (any DNA 40 or SX Mini M ideally)

No, it not the topper/build. (I've swapped tanks out so much I'm going to wear out the 510s!) Toppers that run perfectly stable on my DNA40 VaporFlask are having issues on the eVic, then they're perfectly fine when I put them back on the DNA, so I'm sure it's a mod issue.

You must've missed my post from yesterday:
Bad news: Mine is still dropping resistance by .02ohms for no apparent reason.

Every single topper I put on it has done this, even when locked. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes and boom, it takes 50-70 degrees more to get the same vape. Nickel, Titanium, single or dual, within recommended specs, under or over specs, same thing: .02+ drop in resistance (it seems to be a percentage of the base resistance) A .77ohm Ti coil actually dropped to .73ohms after Vaping perfectly for 3-4 hours.

BTW, my VT reads very close to the same resistance as my DNA40 Flask: usually <.01 difference ....until my little gremlin screws things up!
 
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BNEAT

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This may have been going on from the start, but I didn't notice because my ADV tank is a relatively low resistance Nickel build, so sometimes the eVic only drops the resistance on that tank by .01ohms

I remember having to vape at a higher temp than with my DNA, but I guess I didn't notice the resistance dropping that small amount (or put the two together)

Playing with higher resistance Ti builds really made this noticeably. .02-.03 ohm difference makes for some really drastic differences in temp settings.
 

BNEAT

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PBusardo delayed his review on the eVic because of some issue he wanted to figure out first. I'm hoping whatever he's working on sheds a little light on my issue. (It may be one of those "duh" things I've been know to do)

Phil Busardo
44 min · Rochester, NY, United States ·
"Ok Gang, here's the deal...

The eVic VT review will have to wait till next week. The temp probe isn't in yet, and I experienced an issue that I want to expand on and show in the video.

Sorry, but I don't rush these videos. I don't personally care about being the first one out with a review video. I do my best to gain as much experience with the products and put as much information as possible in the videos. I do this to give YOU as much information as possible in order for you to make an educated decision as to where you put your money.

I did, however, build the Zephyrus last night and may be shooting that for you tonight"
 
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SheerLuckHolmes

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22 wraps? How do you figure that?

Titanium needs fewer coils than Ni200, about 3 times fewer for the same thickness of wire. More than for Kanthal, true.

But why would you need/want 22 wraps specifically? Are you sure you're calculating that right?

Putting that into Steam Engine, for 28G Titanium, that means you're trying to build a 1.5Ω coil? 0.3Ω - 0.5Ω is far more typical for Titanium. You'd have to check the VT will even do TC above 1.0Ω, no other TC mod will that I know of.

The Lemo 1 and 2 have a decent sized RTA deck for single coil - I'd only recommend the 2 though, as the 1 can have issues with TC unless you fix the 510 pin with an o-ring. The Taifun GT2 isn't bad. Squape R / Rs also OK.
Don't know how I screwed that up. Thank you, you are correct. I may have hit the dual coil selection by mistake.... something, but I screwed up the SteamEngine calulations.

I was actually trying for a .5 or .6 to be in the bottom range of the specs for Ti with the eVic VT.

I'll try it again tonight. Thanks I appreciate your straight information post without needing to beat me up.
 

TheBloke

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No, it not the topper/build. (I've swapped tanks out so much I'm going to wear out the 510s!) Toppers that run perfectly stable on my DNA40 VaporFlask are having issues on the eVic, then they're perfectly fine when I put them back on the DNA, so I'm sure it's a mod issue.

You must've missed my post from yesterday:

I didn't say anything about it being the topper - I asked what the resistance reads on the DNA before and after it it shows the drop on the VT. See the second part of my post for why:

Hmm. How does this compare to other mods?

For example, you put a build on the VT, it reads - let's say - 0.40Ω then after 10 mins it reads 0.38Ω or whatever. What does it read if you put it on another mod, before and/or after it's read 0.40 - 0.38Ω on the VT?

I'm wondering if it's a similar thing to what Tony is reporting, where it boosts the coil up at the start of the vape and then it settles down. Except Tony's stays high and yours doesn't.

Hence knowing how these readings - the original and the later lower one - compare to other mods, preferably good ones (any DNA 40 or SX Mini M ideally)
 

BNEAT

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I understood what you asked, I guess I didn't make it clear in my response. (I didn't try real hard in my English classes)

The DNA reads the resistance the same no matter how many times I switch them back and forth between the devices. The only time the resistance changes (on a screen) is when the eVic sits for 5-10 minutes, but it doesn't do it every time it sits idle.
 

becosemsaida

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This has been very interesting reading and i thank you all for your input.

I don't have much to "play" with but i'll try to sort things out. I don't know what the noises are in the VT since it isn't putting any power to the 510 connection, this is my first concern: why?. I made some builds in NI and i found out that the VT works best above the 0,10 Ohm, (awg 30, NI 200) . So with the current build i have on my modified mega tank (drilled the juice holes to 2.5mm, made a new coil and wicked with cotton) it gives me 0.13 Ohm on my VT. Just for test purpose i didn't lock the resistence and it stayed on the 0,13 so no fluctuations there. Locked the resistence and have been using it like this for the rest of the day. The only problem i have is in the mornig i screw on my mega tank and turn the device on and it reads as 100ºC at room temp (20ºC) so something is not doing it's job, i took it out of the sleeve (retaining heat) so all the mod was at room temp. So my usage on the VT starts at 100ºC, set at 220 gives me 120ºC to "play" with until it reaches the cut off. Just to be more precise, not that i don't trust my fluke, i put it on my sx mini (s-class) and it reads the same Ohms, 0.13....

All this is strange because we are all at V1.18, but we have some with res fluctuations, others with diferent problems ..... strange thing.

There might be some kind of conclusion: We all use diferent wire to make the coils from diferent vendors there may be better or worse quality ... since tc is very picky on it's readings we might have a point here... (just my opinion)

There is a possibility to recreate this "live" with two users, same wire, same atty and same res. and see what happens....

Beco
 

TheBloke

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The DNA reads the resistance the same no matter how many times I switch them back and forth between the devices. The only time the resistance changes (on a screen) is when the eVic sits for 5-10 minutes, but it doesn't do it every time it sits idle.

OK. This is interesting. You would appear to have something approximating the inverse of Tony's problem.

In Tony's case, the device shows a resistance too high, but then vapes as if it is normal.

In your case, the device shows normal resistance, then moves it down, and then vapes as if it really is down (that's right, yeah? You have to adjust the temp up after it 'refines' down?)

I'm wondering if these are two symptoms of the same problem. Something to do with this mysterious 1.7V probe it applies to the coil. In Ton'ys case it applies it and then doesn't correct the resulting resistance, showing the post-probe resistance on screen; but it vapes with the pre-probe, correct resistance.

In your case, it doesn't appear to show the result of the 1.7V probe - no higher resistance at start - but then it seems to factor it out later, as if it thinks "I pushed the resistance up, so it must be 0.02 lower" when in fact it either never pushed it up, or else it had already factored it out.

It might be completely unrelated of course, but there are interesting similarities.

Is anyone else seeing anything like refinement at any point? What if you take the device and stick it in a fridge or much colder place?

I'm starting to wish I just ordered the full kit today, I might have it tomorrow then. Oh well, I have plenty of other testing needing doing :)
 

BNEAT

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This has been very interesting reading and i thank you all for your input.

I don't have much to "play" with but i'll try to sort things out. I don't know what the noises are in the VT since it isn't putting any power to the 510 connection, this is my first concern: why?. I made some builds in NI and i found out that the VT works best above the 0,10 Ohm, (awg 30, NI 200) . So with the current build i have on my modified mega tank (drilled the juice holes to 2.5mm, made a new coil and wicked with cotton) it gives me 0.13 Ohm on my VT. Just for test purpose i didn't lock the resistence and it stayed on the 0,13 so no fluctuations there. Locked the resistence and have been using it like this for the rest of the day. The only problem i have is in the mornig i screw on my mega tank and turn the device on and it reads as 100ºC at room temp (20ºC) so something is not doing it's job, i took it out of the sleeve (retaining heat) so all the mod was at room temp. So my usage on the VT starts at 100ºC, set at 220 gives me 120ºC to "play" with until it reaches the cut off. Just to be more precise, not that i don't trust my fluke, i put it on my sx mini (s-class) and it reads the same Ohms, 0.13....

All this is strange because we are all at V1.18, but we have some with res fluctuations, others with diferent problems ..... strange thing.

There might be some kind of conclusion: We all use diferent wire to make the coils from diferent vendors there may be better or worse quality ... since tc is very picky on it's readings we might have a point here... (just my opinion)

There is a possibility to recreate this "live" with two users, same wire, same atty and same res. and see what happens....

Beco
My ADV is a .13ohm nickel build, and it NEVER reads close to room temp on the eVic. I thought maybe when I pushed the button to read the temp it was giving just enough power to the coil to warm it up to the 100 degrees that I usually see.
 

becosemsaida

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My ADV is a .13ohm nickel build, and it NEVER reads close to room temp on the eVic. I thought maybe when I pushed the button to read the temp it was giving just enough power to the coil to warm it up to the 100 degrees that I usually see.

If one single "check" boosts to 100ºC (talking about 0.5s or less) we couldn't use it for vaping.... I think just for testing purpose i'm going to let my atty in the fridge
tonight and check it tomorrow......
 

BNEAT

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Yeah, we're on the same page now, and it does seem similar to Tony's deal, but backwards.

Do you have a digital multimeter or any kind of volt reader, BNeat?

I stuck my Fluke on it, but didn't see near 1.7 volts. Mine bounced around .18 volts
 

BNEAT

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If one single "check" boosts to 100ºC (talking about 0.5s or less) we couldn't use it for vaping.... I think just for testing purpose i'm going to let my atty in the fridge
tonight and check it tomorrow......
ohhh, I was talking 100F!

See, I told you all I suck at English:D
 

mc8

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If one single "check" boosts to 100ºC (talking about 0.5s or less) we couldn't use it for vaping.... I think just for testing purpose i'm going to let my atty in the fridge
tonight and check it tomorrow......
The device doesn't read the temperature, it calculates it! Lots about it written here before.
 
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becosemsaida

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The device doesn't read the temperature, it calculates it! Lots about it written here before.

Ok, so if this calculates that room temp is about 5X more then the real thing i must be vaping at about 44ºC....... Never going to get burned wicking material that's for sure.
 
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atroph

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Yeah, we're on the same page now, and it does seem similar to Tony's deal, but backwards.



I stuck my Fluke on it, but didn't see near 1.7 volts. Mine bounced around .18 volts
You probably won't see 1.8v pulses on a fluke (77 model and similar) as it reads rms voltage in normal DC mode. You would need and oscope to see the 1.8v. Unless you have and 87 or one with the high/low function. Maybe then it will sample fast enough to catch the peaks.
 
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