I use the bases from my miniprotanks on my protanks; plus drill the miniprotank bases out for air.
Dang Boy... That is One Long APV.
LOL
Juice burning out my coils to quickly?
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Dang Boy... That is One Long APV.
LOL
I buy them at my local shop. I'm convinced that the extra cooling is allowing my coils to last. They are 2.4 ohm Kangers. We're using 1300 mah Ego-T batteries on PT2 tanks on all but 1 of 9. The 1 is a Nautilus with a 2200 mah Ego-T battery. One of the holes I bore out is the inlet piece on the coil. It pops right out with needle nose pliers. Hold it with regular pliers & run a 1/16" drill thru it. I also use Kanger Air Control valves & bore all 3 holes all the way to the center with a 1/16" drill. It's a little airy opened all the way but it's adjustable.
Just as a little update from my end. It seems to be the juice that has been causing my problems. I picked up a bottle of juice from my local shop and it's been 3 days now with zero issue. Also, did my first dry burn and worked like a charm.. sheesh, wish I knew of this years ago. I probably threw away hundreds of perfectly fine coils. Thanks for all the feedback and pointers everyone!
My local vendor bought huge quantities of Kanger and Aspire heads just before the Chinese New Year. She's stuck with a lot of bad coils and Kanger won't exchange them because they only admit to a problem with wick diameter being to small in MAY. If they weren't purchased in May, then they won't give credit.
The trouble is that there are no date codes on any Chinese products I've seen. How do they know what's good and what's bad, even if they admit a problem?
I ordered coils from a Connecticut vendor who makes it very plain that ALL of his coils come straight from Kanger, Aspire, and the original vendors. Same problem with the non resistive legs coming unsoldered within 24 hours. You can see the hole where the coil end wire came out of the solder blob. The non-resistive leg falls out when you remove the grommet. It's either low melting point solder or cold solder joints. They aren't shiny, they are dull gray, which is the signature of a cold solder joint.
Most vendors all make it plain that they don't warranty coil heads unless the vendor gives them credit. That doesn't happen often.
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So here is another quick update. Recently received another bottle from that vendor, unfortunately it had already been ordered before I connected the dots. To satisfy my curiosity, I tried one more time with a new bottle of the juice in question. As expected the coil was toast or gunked within 6 hours. The juice I normally get has been working just fine now for 4+ days on the same coil.
As far as the dry burning, I have had minimal luck with it. Do I completely dry the coil/wick prior to hitting it with the battery? Or, do I leave a little moisture in the wicks to help burn it? Thanks again for all the help guys.
-The new guy
As far as the dry burning, I have had minimal luck with it. Do I completely dry the coil/wick prior to hitting it with the battery? Or, do I leave a little moisture in the wicks to help burn it? Thanks again for all the help guys.
-The new guy
Dekang had a problem with too much starch and polysaccharides from Herbal extracts finding their way into the eliquid. This high level readily carbonises on the coil, in fact Dekang say it was three times higher than normal. The batch of Herbal extract was used in Eliquid starting in March 2014 and going into April. If your Eliquid date of manufacture is around this time then it is the eliquid not the coils. We are assured it is entirely harmless, if you have the bottle still can you confirm the date of manufacture?
Regards
H
PS This only applies to Dekang E liquid
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The bottles of Dekang in question have been re-branded from the vendor I purchased from, so there is no date stamp.
There are Hundreds of Threads about Dry Burning here on the ECF.
As to Drying the Completely Drying the Wick before Dry Burning? That is the Preferred Method. Not because it Makes the Dry Burn Better. But because it is Easier on your Battery.
I rinse in Hot Tap Water and then Wedge the Atty/Cleao into the Grille of a Fan. After an Hour or so the Wick is Pretty Dry.
Then I give the Atty/Clearo a Power Burst until I see a Wisp of Smoke come Off the Coil. Let it Rest for 3 or 4 Seconds. Then Repeat until the Coil Starts to Turn Red. Rest. Repeat if Smoke is Still Coming Off.
The Biggest Mistake people make is Dry Burning Too Long. Smashing Down the Power Button and making the Coil Glow like a Toaster is a Great Way to Pop your Coil. And Once there is No More Smoke, you Are Done.
Then Give your Atty/Clearo another Hot Rinse and Shake/Blow out as much water as you can. No Need to Completely Dry if you want to use the Atty/Clearo right away. Just Fill and Go.
WARNING: Dry Burning should Never be Done on Any Type of Atomizer Wick Except a Pure Silica Wick. And Should Never be Done on a Filler Type Carto.
well, first off you are not burning coils. The actual coil will last months if properly maintained. One can burn their wick, this is either done by running out of juice, wick dries out and burns, or you aren't wicking properly, and the wick can't keep up with the coil. Or, have a hot spot, loose wrap in coil, which is get to hot and drying out a portion of wick and burning.
Know on some changeables, over tightening them to the batt device can cause twisting of the coil, causing hot spots and dry hits. Also, not allowing sufficient time for juice saturation into the wick, before taking that first vape, can damage wick, decreasing it's wicking potential, shortening it's life, and promote flooding issues.
Understand you claim all thing remain the same, but that's not totally true. The weather, humidity, atmospheric pressure all have changed, add in possible changes in juice recipe and vg levels, lots of room for inconsistencies. Just saying.
Add in quality control issues of pre made coil and wicks, yeah, now we talking a recipe for disaster. I quickly learned early in my vape journey, that the best vape possible can be found in the world of rba's, re-buildable atomizers. This also, once competent at building, is the source for the most consistent and trouble free vape that there is to be found. But, takes time, knowledge and practice to get their. It's like building a hot rod and model rocketry all in the same hobby.
I gave up on changeables last September, just weeks after discovering the ecf. had a pt, that have give away, and never looked back. But the two things mentioned were instrumental on getting the most out of me coil heads. 2 or 3 weeks, still had 3 heads left when went rba. lol
Know on some changeables, over tightening them to the batt device can cause twisting of the coil, causing hot spots and dry hits. Also, not allowing sufficient time for juice saturation into the wick, before taking that first vape, can damage wick, decreasing it's wicking potential, shortening it's life, and promote flooding issues.
Understand you claim all thing remain the same, but that's not totally true. The weather, humidity, atmospheric pressure all have changed, add in possible changes in juice recipe and vg levels, lots of room for inconsistencies. Just saying.
Add in quality control issues of pre made coil and wicks, yeah, now we talking a recipe for disaster. I quickly learned early in my vape journey, that the best vape possible can be found in the world of rba's, re-buildable atomizers. This also, once competent at building, is the source for the most consistent and trouble free vape that there is to be found. But, takes time, knowledge and practice to get their. It's like building a hot rod and model rocketry all in the same hobby.
I gave up on changeables last September, just weeks after discovering the ecf. had a pt, that have give away, and never looked back. But the two things mentioned were instrumental on getting the most out of me coil heads. 2 or 3 weeks, still had 3 heads left when went rba. lol
One Other thing I forgot to Mention about Dry Burning.
If you have a VV Device, set it at about 3.5V to do your Dry Burn. Things Happen Slower and Lower Voltages. And it is Easier on your Coils than Using 5v and Making a Big, Angry Red Glow.
I'm still using the Kanger MT3S I started with. No matter what juice I used, my coils only lasted about one day. After going through a box of coils a week, I bought some 32ga and 30ga Kanthal and some 2mm and 3mm silica wicks. I rewound my own coils to suit my juice, which I mix myself now. I bought those coils for about a buck apiece (and kept every one of them), but even one a day was more than I wanted to spend. Now it costs me about 5 cents a day and that includes juice. A lot cheaper than a buck a day and a lot cheaper than two packs of analogs a day!
@ Dice and Zoid, Thanks for the tips, I'll give it another shot tomorrow.
@ Cigmund, nothing printed on the bottle except the vendor name. I've been speaking with the vendor and is working with me to try and figure this out. Hope this works out because they are real nice, price is right, and they ship really fast.
@ Cigmund, nothing printed on the bottle except the vendor name. I've been speaking with the vendor and is working with me to try and figure this out. Hope this works out because they are real nice, price is right, and they ship really fast.
Latest update... Vendor checked production date and it fell within the window of the wonky batches mentioned in that other thread. He sent me juice from the latest order and everything seems to be working fine. So, it was the juice causing coil junkage. Thanks again everyone for all the tips and help.
Sean
Sean
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