Just getting started, could use some advice here...

[mrcoolbp]

That's not a bad idea on the pre-oxidized mesh, I considered that at first too, and in Bubba's case he doesn't have a decent oxy method available. It would be a good start. Can't comment on any ceramic stuff personally.

Bubba: the only other advice I can give (I'm still a n00b but I've done a LOT of research) is the RSST is a good starter rba tank, for a few reasons. It's what I grabbed as my first genny, and second rba. Check pbusardo's video out for reasons why:

A PBusardo Review - Smoktech RSST Genesis Atomizer - YouTube

Oh and as for the multimeter, you can grab one for like $5 from harbor freight, but their lower quality. You'll have to check the internal resistance (by touching the "leads" to each other) and subtract that out from your test results. Also they are really useful for checking battery voltage! So it's a good investment.

 

[Bubba]

That's not a bad idea on the pre-oxidized mesh, I considered that at first too, and in Bubba's case he doesn't have a decent oxy method available. It would be a good start. Can't comment on any ceramic stuff personally.

Bubba: the only other advice I can give (I'm still a n00b but I've done a LOT of research) is the RSST is a good starter RBA tank, for a few reasons. It's what I grabbed as my first genny, and second RBA. Check pbusardo's video out for reasons why:

A PBusardo Review - Smoktech RSST Genesis Atomizer - YouTube

Oh and as for the multimeter, you can grab one for like $5 from harbor freight, but their lower quality. You'll have to check the internal resistance (by touching the "leads" to each other) and subtract that out from your test results. Also they are really useful for checking battery voltage! So it's a good investment.

Looks like I can get most of what I'll need on the cheap. I'll probably go ahead and get a chef's torch to oxidize with, plus found some good deals on ebay.

I thought about getting the pre-made ones, but that kind of defeats the purpose. Kind of like having someone else mix your DIY juice.

So my list so far:

32 ga. kanthal
400 ss mesh
multimeter
torch

I'll take a look at the RSST's too. Heard they leak a lot though. That would irk me to spend all this time/effort/money only to have my juice leak out

 

[pdib]

I bought a multimeter long enough to confirm that my VAMO was plenty accurate. I would suggest simply relying on your VV device ohm reading. (check ohms first thing, before firing). If I had to buy 400 or 500, I'd get 500 mesh, it really is noticeably better IMHO (I vape 50/50).

 

[mrcoolbp]

Yeah I'd trust pdib over me any day, and I am me.

 

[pdib]

Yeah I'd trust pdib over me any day, and I am me.

Everything you wrote in this thread was SPOT ON, mrcool

 

[evgeny131]

Aga t2s can be finnicky with reading resistances....they can jump all over the place for no apparent reason (problems with connection @ positive post hidden mysteriously deep within the bellows of the clone...lol) it can just get annoying cuz if u have a device set to watts it will change based on ohms....
RSST's are more stable and easier to take apart because of the spring loaded pos. post....and the silica fill hole....

 

[evgeny131]

like i said above, i havent tried 500 mesh, im sure its great, ive been vaping all types of juices with 400....
i reallly prefer ribbon k...the flavor is better imho, much easier to wrap...
LATER once all this crap makes sense and becomes autopilot, get a nice mech

 

[Bubba]

Ok so I have some 500 mesh on the way. Haven't got the ribbon yet since I'm getting wire with it.

Anyone use a torch they could recommend? From what I'm seeing, it looks like a lot of people use a chef's torch or a smaller butane refillable, kind of like a cigar lighter.

 

[flintlock62]

This one's good enough, but you can get fancier one's.

Butane-Powered Soldering Irons by WELLER - Butane Torches and Soldering Irons by Zoro Tools Industrial Supplies

Home Depot has some pretty decent one's, if you have one near by.

Ok so I have some 500 mesh on the way. Haven't got the ribbon yet since I'm getting wire with it.

Anyone use a torch they could recommend? From what I'm seeing, it looks like a lot of people use a chef's torch or a smaller butane refillable, kind of like a cigar lighter.

 

[Bubba]

This one's good enough, but you can get fancier one's.

Butane-Powered Soldering Irons by WELLER - Butane Torches and Soldering Irons by Zoro Tools Industrial Supplies

Home Depot has some pretty decent one's, if you have one near by.

Yeah, I'll just swing by Lowe's or Home Depot. These are really similar to what I was looking at earlier, just wasn't sure if they needed to reach a certain temp to properly oxidize the mesh

Looks like my aga will be here tomorrow, once I get a wick set up and running I'll post some pics here. Of course, that may be days in the making, but still...

 

[Flyer]

Watch lots of videos about eliminating the hotspots. If you vape with them, you'll instantly know why - nasty!

 

[Bubba]

Watch lots of videos about eliminating the hotspots. If you vape with them, you'll instantly know why - nasty!

That raises an interesting question. From what I'm seeing, eliminating hotspots is achieved primarily by making sure that the spacing of the wire (or ribbon) is equal from top to bottom. Also looks like a lot of people use toothpicks or jewelers screwdrivers.

Is any of what I just said right?

 

[Argusi]

Love this thread. Just ordered two AGA T2's and some things to make them run. Going to try 400 and 500 mesh and 30, 32 kanthal for use on my Vamo. I can tell, I'll probably end up getting a mechanical, but for now, fun is about to ensue in a few days! I've wrapped small transformers, motors and a couple pickups, so hopefully those couple of winds of coil won't kick my rear too badly. I cheated a bit and ordered a few pre-coiled wicks in case my kids won't leave me alone long enough to break out the blow torch, just to try these out.

What I've been gathering reading and watching dozens of videos, is that if you get it right, it's hard to beat, so hopefully the investment will be worth it. Thanks to everyone that has helped me, even without them knowing!

 

[flintlock62]

Does anyone know the size of the "filler screw" for the AGA? I want to get a miniature hex cap socket screw because the supplied Phillips head is a booger to work with. I know, just take it out. I don't want to do that because I can't lay it on its side without leaking.

 

[Bubba]

Does anyone know the size of the "filler screw" for the AGA? I want to get a miniature hex cap socket screw because the supplied Phillips head is a booger to work with. I know, just take it out. I don't want to do that because I can't lay it on its side without leaking.

saw a thread on another site that says they're size M3.

Here's the thread

found some on ebay for about 4 bucks with allen head rather than phillips

 

[flintlock62]

Thanks! I thought they were M3. I can get them cheaper from a RC Hobby Shop. They aren't SS, but I can live with that. I could have measured myself, but a friend borrowed my calipers, and forgot who they belong to.

saw a thread on another site that says they're size M3.

Here's the thread

found some on ebay for about 4 bucks with allen head rather than phillips

 

[Bubba]

Thanks! I thought they were M3. I can get them cheaper from a RC Hobby Shop. They aren't SS, but I can live with that. I could have measured myself, but a friend borrowed my calipers, and forgot who they belong to.

Here are some stainless M3's

and here are some chrome - although they look more like stainless...

 

[mrcoolbp]

That raises an interesting question. From what I'm seeing, eliminating hotspots is achieved primarily by making sure that the spacing of the wire (or ribbon) is equal from top to bottom. Also looks like a lot of people use toothpicks or jewelers screwdrivers.

Is any of what I just said right?

You are close, but eliminating hotspots is more complicated; still, it's not super difficult. Again like I said, when you setup the first time, try following eHumans tutorial step-by-step the first time. I had read though it beforehand but tried setting up "on my own" and it's different actually following it. I got hotspots (and thought I didn't) and after vaping a harsh metallic hit for a few hours I went back searching for better. His method is definitely not the only way, but it is super helpful (when I went back and setup following every detail I had an "aha!" moment or two). From what I understand, it's more about getting even contact between the wire and the wick, AND even tension throughout, so the resistance is the same along the entire coil.

You can use a toothpick, syringe needle, screwdriver, anything small enough to adjust coils. Also you can do it under power, which is actually recommended, as you can see how the changes affect the coil immediately, AND coils are more pliable when they are warm. Check the Zen video on the ZAP for more info on that part (great info that doesn't just apply to the ZAP) if you don't trust me (don't trust me).

 

[flintlock62]

Thanks for the link to the SS cap screws!

Here are some stainless M3's

and here are some chrome - although they look more like stainless...

 

[Bubba]

Ok so I got my aga yesterday and successfully built my first coil/wick. Or so I thought.

Here's what's going on:

Got the mesh rolled, wrapped the coil, immediately noticed a hotspot between top post and coil.

Fooled around with this for a while, then went back through ehumans post and pbusardos video. Figured out that I had the coil too tight around the wick, so rewrapped with new kanthal.

Worked out hotspots on coil until all were glowing evenly

Filled tank, hit button on device. Total fog machine (I hate saying fog machine)

Started at 2 ohms, then dropped to .8 - 1.0 (too low for vamo or evic to fire)

unscrewed atty, reattached to device, now ohms showing again around 1.7 - 2.0

Fired atty, ohms dropped again

That was last night. Finally went to bed

This morning, fired device without top cap on aga, small fire.

Anyone have any idea?