Katana by POC ~ Show and Tell :)

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loft

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I have mine but I'm having issues with it. For some reason I keep getting hot spots. When I made the first wick/coil I didn't hold the button down long enough to see them, or taste the harshness of it. It's not a wicking issue as I've tried making four wicks now. I think, anyways... but I've put it down for now and will revisit it tomorrow or the next day.
 

lorderos33

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Remember to clean only with water. Polycarbonate is notorious for frosting up due to chemical reactions.

Just an fyi so you all know what you are dealing with and don't accidentally damage your tanks.

The tanks on the Katana are not polycarbonate, they are in fact lexan. Peaceoffcake has always preferred it for it's optical clarity.

The tradeoff is that they are not as resilient as polycarbonate but slightly more chemical resistant and they do look a bit nicer than poly.

In case someone is wants to know, the tank can be replaced with 5/8" ID x 3/4" OD polycarbonate tube but the o-rings will need to be replaced with something thinner than is currently in place as that size tube is a pretty tight fit (about .02mm smaller than the 16mm dimension of the Katana)

Again, this is just a PSA for all the soon to be new Katana club members :)
 

lorderos33

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any idea what the difference in performance would be between these two?

Code:
*Mesh size refers to distance between wires.
                       Opening    Open
Mesh Size   Wire Dia.  Width      Area
325 × 325   0.0014"    0.0017"    30.5%
325 × 325   0.0011"    0.002"     41.0%

Yes, definitely. The .0011 wire dia. mesh will wick slightly faster than the .0014 wire and the TH will be very slightly stronger. It will also hold just a tad more juice in reserve for multiple hits. The difference will be almost negligible when vaping and probably completely undetectable by the person using it, but that is the difference between the 2. Also, there are different weave patterns in mesh that can determine how well they perform. The square weave mesh will wick faster than cross-hatch weave will, but if you need to bend a wick, the cross-hatch pattern is easier to work with because it remains more pliable even after oxidation.

Hope this helps :)
 

lorderos33

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I have mine but I'm having issues with it. For some reason I keep getting hot spots. When I made the first wick/coil I didn't hold the button down long enough to see them, or taste the harshness of it. It's not a wicking issue as I've tried making four wicks now. I think, anyways... but I've put it down for now and will revisit it tomorrow or the next day.

This is definitely an oxidation issue. The wick is not oxidized well enough and so the kanthal is shorting on the mesh creating hot spots.

If you drip juice on it and pulse it till is just glows, this will correct itself by building up more gunk on the coil and insulating it from the mesh. The better solution is to pull the wick and re-oxidize it.

Heat to red (with butane torch) and drop in water while still red hot. Dry the wick and repeat at least 2 more times (I do this 5 times). Then dry the wick and heat it again with the torch, pull from the flame and put a drop of juice on the wick.

Sorry for the long post, I kept thinking of more things to add while typing ;)

Hope this helps. If you do as I am instructing here, you will be well on your way to mastering the Genisis and will be a much happier vaper :)

Light the wick on fire with the torch (the juice will catch fire easily and the wick will act like a match) and let it burn out. Drip another drop or two of juice on the wick and light it again. Repeat at least 3 more times.

Now you will have a well oxidized wick... re-insert it into the Katana at this time.

To more easily wrap your coil, insert a needle or other thin metal rod (unbent paperclip, sewing needle, etc)into the center hole of the wick. Take the kanthal you are about to wrap as a coil and quickly run over it with a butane lighter. Do this quickly so that you do not overheat and weaken the wire. It can glow red, but not for more than a second at a time in the open air without it weakening significantly. This will take much of the springyness out of the wire and allow you to wrap it more easily.

Make a small hook on one end of the wire and attach it to the shorter electrode. Wrap it around the wick 4 times (4 on one side and 3 on the other) and attach the other end to the taller electrode. Make sure the coil is snug all around the wick and that there are not alot of gaps between the coil and mesh (this is very important for making a coil that performs really well and lasts a long time).

Now remove the pin from the wick, make sure the wick is good and wet with juice and fire the coil. If you see any hot spots right away, just move the coil that is hotter than the rest till it evens out. Make sure that if the wick dries out during this part that ou re-wet it. Once the coil is glowing good and even, fire it for a good 30 seconds, constantly dropping juice on it to keep it from burning.

You should have an almost completely broken in and evenly firing coil and a very well oxidized wick that should supply plenty of juce to the coil while you are vaping. Within 20 puffs you should realize the full flavor of your setup and should not have to do much else to it for a good month or 2 other than filling the tank.

If the coil gets all gunky with carbon because of the juice you use, no worries :) All you have to do is pull the top cap off and dry burn the coil. As you see it glowing good and hot, dunk it in water or run it under the sink quickly. the carbon gunk will fall right off and you will be on your way for another week or so.
 

erich

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In case someone is wants to know, the tank can be replaced with 5/8" ID x 3/4" OD polycarbonate tube but the o-rings will need to be replaced with something thinner than is currently in place as that size tube is a pretty tight fit (about .02mm smaller than the 16mm dimension of the Katana)

I can assure you that that is *not* the case on the hybrid mini... not sure on the Katana, but if it is the same diameter as the hybrid, even without o-rings it won't fit. I sanded the inside down with a grinding wheel on a dremel quite a bit to make it go on. It might not have looked completely terrible if someone with proper tools and skill had done it, but the fact remains that a 5/8" ID isn't going over those metal pieces...
 

erich

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Yes, definitely. The .0011 wire dia. mesh will wick slightly faster than the .0014 wire and the TH will be very slightly stronger. It will also hold just a tad more juice in reserve for multiple hits. The difference will be almost negligible when vaping and probably completely undetectable by the person using it, but that is the difference between the 2. Also, there are different weave patterns in mesh that can determine how well they perform. The square weave mesh will wick faster than cross-hatch weave will, but if you need to bend a wick, the cross-hatch pattern is easier to work with because it remains more pliable even after oxidation.

Hope this helps :)

Definitely will. Thanks! Ordering some today so it'll be here by round 3. I have a little bit left over from a scubagen tank, but pretty sure it's 400 anyway, and I'm liking thicker juices.

I don't expect to need to bend them much... on the mini, I was squeezing it flat a little so I could bend it forward to be as much between the pins as possible. With the design of the Katana, though, I don't expect to have such an issue.
 

RippleInStillWater

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This is definitely an oxidation issue. The wick is not oxidized well enough and so the kanthal is shorting on the mesh creating hot spots.

If you drip juice on it and pulse it till is just glows, this will correct itself by building up more gunk on the coil and insulating it from the mesh. The better solution is to pull the wick and re-oxidize it.

Heat to red (with butane torch) and drop in water while still red hot. Dry the wick and repeat at least 2 more times (I do this 5 times). Then dry the wick and heat it again with the torch, pull from the flame and put a drop of juice on the wick.

Sorry for the long post, I kept thinking of more things to add while typing ;)

Hope this helps. If you do as I am instructing here, you will be well on your way to mastering the Genisis and will be a much happier vaper :)

Light the wick on fire with the torch (the juice will catch fire easily and the wick will act like a match) and let it burn out. Drip another drop or two of juice on the wick and light it again. Repeat at least 3 more times.

Now you will have a well oxidized wick... re-insert it into the Katana at this time.

To more easily wrap your coil, insert a needle or other thin metal rod (unbent paperclip, sewing needle, etc)into the center hole of the wick. Take the kanthal you are about to wrap as a coil and quickly run over it with a butane lighter. Do this quickly so that you do not overheat and weaken the wire. It can glow red, but not for more than a second at a time in the open air without it weakening significantly. This will take much of the springyness out of the wire and allow you to wrap it more easily.

Make a small hook on one end of the wire and attach it to the shorter electrode. Wrap it around the wick 4 times (4 on one side and 3 on the other) and attach the other end to the taller electrode. Make sure the coil is snug all around the wick and that there are not alot of gaps between the coil and mesh (this is very important for making a coil that performs really well and lasts a long time).

Now remove the pin from the wick, make sure the wick is good and wet with juice and fire the coil. If you see any hot spots right away, just move the coil that is hotter than the rest till it evens out. Make sure that if the wick dries out during this part that ou re-wet it. Once the coil is glowing good and even, fire it for a good 30 seconds, constantly dropping juice on it to keep it from burning.

You should have an almost completely broken in and evenly firing coil and a very well oxidized wick that should supply plenty of juce to the coil while you are vaping. Within 20 puffs you should realize the full flavor of your setup and should not have to do much else to it for a good month or 2 other than filling the tank.

If the coil gets all gunky with carbon because of the juice you use, no worries :) All you have to do is pull the top cap off and dry burn the coil. As you see it glowing good and hot, dunk it in water or run it under the sink quickly. the carbon gunk will fall right off and you will be on your way for another week or so.

Man, I have a lot to learn :facepalm:

Do you have any links for videos doing this? Also, links for mesh and wire? I'm sorry to be quasi-lazy but this and the zen thread are so in and out with info vs. BS'ing........:)
 

lorderos33

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I can assure you that that is *not* the case on the hybrid mini... not sure on the Katana, but if it is the same diameter as the hybrid, even without o-rings it won't fit. I sanded the inside down with a grinding wheel on a dremel quite a bit to make it go on. It might not have looked completely terrible if someone with proper tools and skill had done it, but the fact remains that a 5/8" ID isn't going over those metal pieces...

I beg to differ. I have a 5/8" I.D. polycarb on my hybrid and a friend of mine has a 5/8" I/D polycarb tank on his Katana. I am 100% certain that they can be made to fit without sanding the insides down.
 

lorderos33

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Definitely will. Thanks! Ordering some today so it'll be here by round 3. I have a little bit left over from a scubagen tank, but pretty sure it's 400 anyway, and I'm liking thicker juices.

I don't expect to need to bend them much... on the mini, I was squeezing it flat a little so I could bend it forward to be as much between the pins as possible. With the design of the Katana, though, I don't expect to have such an issue.

Yes, with the Katana, the electrodes are so close to the wick that there is no need to bend it. This also helps it to wick faster and works very well. :)
 

lorderos33

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Man, I have a lot to learn :facepalm:

Do you have any links for videos doing this? Also, links for mesh and wire? I'm sorry to be quasi-lazy but this and the zen thread are so in and out with info vs. BS'ing........:)

I know that Scott has a good video on the line that shows the process on youtube. He does a good job. Almost exactly what I do, but he does the heat/quench cycles 3 times instead of 5 and the same for burning juice on the wick. He uses a very similar method to prepping the coil as well.

There are videos our there on YouTube of ooSturmoo making a mesh roll and coiling it too. His process is also very similar to mine.

For mesh and wire, I get mesh from The Mesh Co. The prices are very reasonable and they always send at least one extra sheet of mesh for free (The Mesh Company (Warrington) Ltd Super Fine 325 Mesh). The kanthal I use is 32g a Kanthal A-1 and can be found on ebay at (Resistance heating wire, Kanthal A-1 32 awg 75ft | eBay)

Happy Modding :)
 

Kami

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Man, I have a lot to learn :facepalm:

Do you have any links for videos doing this? Also, links for mesh and wire? I'm sorry to be quasi-lazy but this and the zen thread are so in and out with info vs. BS'ing........:)

Here is a video of the wick building process using most of the steps lord suggestions Rip;

This is Scott .... again..... it's a tutorial for building repairable attys.....it's a Line.... but that does not matter, wick preparation is the same.

lord suggests oxidizing the wick 5 times....scott says 3...... but dang, using a blowtorch is fun....i may do it 6 times.
the point is....make sure the wick is well insulated.

lord has a very good idea.......leaving the pin, paperclip, needle.... whatever you may use to roll your wick, in until AFTER you wrap your coils....sounds reasonable to me....would keep your wick rigid while firmly wrapping the coils....Thank you lord :) I will have to reinsert something in my wicks...already rolled them up using the "roll a joint" method :ohmy:




 
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