Kayfun LITE - Part 2

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Exchaner

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Yeah...the first thing I noticed is that your preferred resistance is about double what most people (in this thread) vape at on a kayfun.
Do you mind if I ask what device you're using to power your kayfun? And what voltage or wattage are you running it at?

I was hoping you won't ask that question, but I am still using an Ego-Twist until my iStick gets here ..... Vaping approximately 4 volts at 2.4 ohms. As for lowering my resistance, won't that make my vape warmer and therefore more potent? And finally, I am curious about the NR-R-NR coils. What do they accomplish, more precision perhaps?
 

ignotus

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Greetings everyone. I am a first time Kayfun user, and unlike many of you guys, I vape around 2.4 - 2.8 ohm. Built my very first device just now, and the throat hit and nic hit nearly knocked my socks off - even though I was vaping my usual 8mg at 2.4 ohm. Have any of you had to reduce your milligrams because of this RTA?

Yes my experience was similar. I vaped 6 mg on commercial coils, then had to start diluting that with 0 when I switched to rebuildables.
 

HBcorpse

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I was hoping you won't ask that question, but I am still using an Ego-Twist until my iStick gets here ..... Vaping approximately 4 volts at 2.4 ohms. As for lowering my resistance, won't that make my vape warmer and therefore more potent? And finally, I am curious about the NR-R-NR coils. What do they accomplish, more precision perhaps?

Hey don't worry about the eGo...most vapers started on one, or something similar!
4 volts @ 2.4 ohms...ah, memories. Hahaha!
I'm so excited for you to experience the leap in quality of vape, once we get you up and running with your Kayfun! Because you're going to love it! I was a carto diehard for so long myself, and then switched directly to Kayfuns.
Lowering your resistance won't necessarily make your vape warmer...a warm vape depends on a few other factors, as well as resistance. As far as potency, the answer is yes, but not because of the resistance. The Kayfun (or Kayfun style) produces and delivers a better vape, which means you'll get a better throat hit, and truer flavor profile(s) from your juice.
As far as the NR-R-NR wires go...well, from my experience, they are used for a totally different type of atomizer. As I said, I use them in my SOPHIA, which is a rebuildable cartomizer type device. The reason for the NR-R-NR wires, is that the NR (non-resistance) legs are pinched between the housing parts of the SOPHIA's tube, creating the electrical contact to provide power to the coil. If those legs weren't NR (non-resistance), the coil would short out.
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***DISCLAIMER FOR VETERAN USERS***
I am about to go off the Kayfun topic for a moment, so as to explain to our friend here, the best purpose (that I know of) for an NR-R-NR build. It is relevant to my explanation of the difference between these builds, and Kanthal builds. I know this is a Kayfun thread, but I wanted to clearly illustrate (as best I could) the usage of NR-R-NR builds, so as to better clarify the different usage between them and a Kanthal build.
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Here, you can see a SOPHIA build...it's in a little ceramic cup, inside the steel base. The coil legs go through tiny holes at the bottom of the cup, and get bent back upwards. One goes back up through the center of the cup, the other gets pinched between the cup and the walls of the base...I know it's not the clearest picture, but I can find more if you'd like!
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1422117643.811288.jpg
Here is where you can see one leg going back up the side of the cup, and one is just visible going into the center of the cup (bottom left of picture).
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1422117903.002171.jpg
Now here, you can see the inside of the SOPHIA base, and its center pin. That's the "hot lead" or point of power for the coil, which makes contact with the NR leg that goes up the center of the cup. The other NR leg, which gets pinched between the cup and the wall of the base, would be the "ground" for the coil.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1422118012.839847.jpg
Now, while there may be nothing wrong with using those NR-R-NR builds in a Kayfun, I've just never seen it done...although now I want to play with that!
A Kanthal build is made up of a length of R (resistance) wire only. It's legs are captured under the little screws on the deck of the Kayfun, which provide the electrical contacts for power to the coil.
If you're used to using pre-made coils, the good thing is...plenty of vendors make Kanthal coils!
Here is a vendor that makes some very good coils, and offers a range of resistances and coil sizes, perfect for the Kayfun! I've ordered from them many times.
http://signaturetips.com/signature-kanthal-rda-rebuildable-coils/signature-28awg-kanthal-coils.html
I recommend the: 28 Gauge 1.6ohm 2mm I/D 9.5 Wraps
The "I/D" refers to the Inner Diameter of the coil. That's important for things like wicking, and the overall size of the coil.
Also make sure to select the option for "OPPOSING LEGS (KAYFUN STYLE)"...that way the legs will point away from each other, ready to be mounted to your build deck!
Remember, when building, the height that the coil is from the air hole aka center pin, will make a difference in how warm your vape is, and the throat hit you'll feel...as well as how much vapor you'll produce!
And that's why the Kayfun is so great! It's essentially endlessly customizable!
 
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MattB101

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I use a laser micrometer to get a 1.4625mm gap. ;)



No shorts... it's good.

ROTFLMAO. You are so right, as long as it works who the heck cares. (I try not to cuss too much, it pisses off the mods)

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
 
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MattB101

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OOoo, err, ummm, not to speak of. Just within a half wavelength of excited deuterium fluoride gas. Uhh, maybe about, uh, 1900nm. :blink:




Oh... wait... NO... no tolerance for shorts at all. No shorts! Shorts are NOT tolerated!

Unless she looks really good in them, then they're encouraged.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
 

MattB101

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Greetings everyone. I am a first time Kayfun user, and unlike many of you guys, I vape around 2.4 - 2.8 ohm. Built my very first device just now, and the throat hit and nic hit nearly knocked my socks off - even though I was vaping my usual 8mg at 2.4 ohm. Have any of you had to reduce your milligrams because of this RTA? I am using a nano kit and pre-made coils - NR-R-NR 33 gauge Nichrome wire with 1mm inside diameter (at 2.4 ohms as I mentioned). The wicks are Japanese cotton.

View attachment 406312

Here are the complete specs: https://www.fasttech.com/p/1591702

Could these coils be the source of my problems, or could it be the cotton wicks, which I am using for the first time. I am wicking properly except when I take consecutive drags with little time in between. I need to add that up until this point, I have been using those dinky cartomizers; so this is a big change for me. Thanks in advance for your suggestions and opinions.

Nichrome tends to have flavor, I much prefer kanthal. The Kayfun seems to vape with more efficiency and lots of folks do have to cut the NIC a little bit. I was vaping 12 and cut it to 10 and that seemed to work well for me. YMMV.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
 

Exchaner

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Hey HB, Thanks man for taking the time for that great explanation. You're absolutely right, a lower resistance does not necessarily mean a harsher vape. Should have known that from the concept of heat flux discussed in the Steam Engine Calculator.... I will try using 28 gauge at 1.6 ohms as you suggested and see what happens. Thanks also for the explanation on NR-R-NR. The way you describe it, I can use them to rebuild the coils for my Kanger T3S I think. If you want a few samples, send me a PM and I'd be happy to send some over. Have 50 of them - more than I can use.
 
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KTMRider

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Tobeco is the V4 to get if you can't afford the real thing?

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

Yep. I have a FT "A", FC and Tobeco black. They're all very good but the Tobeco has the least issues.


They carry a few different ones I hear.

Only about 21 :blink:
 

Brewer26

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Hi all. Just setup my first Kayfun lite + (2nd batch). I used 28 guage with 9 loops. Came out to 2.0 ohms. The question I have is what does the diameter of the coil have to do with vape quality? The reason ask is I have no idea the size drill bit I used when wrapping but it looked somewhat large. Not really sure though. No burnt hits and no leaking so I guess it was fine. Just wondering.

Thanks guys/gals
 

Chromag9

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Well I just made the RBA/RTA leap with a cheap Kayfun Lite "styled" from FT. I have an MVP2 and I've been vaping with a Protank2 and a couple evods for the past year. Due to the inconsistencies I've had with the Protank2 (burnt taste, gurgling, flooding, cracking, popping) I decided to just jump into RTA's. I was so sick of paying for garbage premade coils that seemed to last anywhere from a few days to a week. I built my first setup tonight. I Used 28 gauge kanthol, 10 wraps around a 5/64 drill bit and organic cotton balls from Walgreens. I turned up the MVP2 to 11 watts and it's been working great so far (only a couple hours in).

I did have to use some adapter that came with my Tobeco ohm meter to get it to work properly with the MVP2. If I just connected it directly I got the ole "Non" on the screen. It wasn't making a connection. I remembered some adapter came with the meter so I tried that and it's working great now. It's ugly as all get out, but it works! I'm loving the KFL "style" so far and hope it keeps working this great.

And here's a pic...

kfl.jpg
 
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AMDTrucking

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I wish FT would identify the company of the clone that they are carrying.

If you must get it on Fast Tech, I would suggest getting either this one infinite-kayfun-v4 or hotcig-kayfun-v4 Those two seem to be OK. Otherwise, get ToBeCo clone on eBay. Even the most expensive clone by E.H.Pro is not as good as ToBeCo
 
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KTMRider

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Hi all. Just setup my first Kayfun lite + (2nd batch). I used 28 guage with 9 loops. Came out to 2.0 ohms. The question I have is what does the diameter of the coil have to do with vape quality? The reason ask is I have no idea the size drill bit I used when wrapping but it looked somewhat large. Not really sure though. No burnt hits and no leaking so I guess it was fine. Just wondering.

Thanks guys/gals

Bigger ID coils gives you more resistance, surface area and/or wicking. I think the KFL is very forgiving with builds. Try a few out and see what you like.


Well I just made the RBA/RTA leap with a cheap Kayfun Lite "styled" from FT. I have an MVP2 and I've been vaping with a Protank2 and a couple evods for the past year. Due to the inconsistencies I've had with the Protank2 (burnt taste, gurgling, flooding, cracking, popping) I decided to just jump into RTA's. I was so sick of paying for garbage premade coils that seemed to last anywhere from a few days to a week. I built my first setup tonight. I Used 28 gauge kanthol, 10 wraps around a 5/64 drill bit and organic cotton balls from Walgreens. I turned up the MVP2 to 11 watts and it's been working great so far (only a couple hours in).

I did have to use some adapter that came with my Tobeco ohm meter to get it to work properly with the MVP2. If I just connected it directly I got the ole "Non" on the screen. It wasn't making a connection. I remembered some adapter came with the meter so I tried that and it's working great now. It's ugly as all get out, but it works! I'm loving the KFL "style" so far and hope it keeps working this great.

The "non" issue is because the 510 pin is pushed down. You can wiggle it up about 1-2mm with a pick or small flat head screwdriver to make contact with the atomizer.


If you must get it on Fast Tech, I would suggest getting either this one infinite-kayfun-v4 or hotcig-kayfun-v4 Those two seem to be OK. Otherwise, get ToBeCo clone on eBay. Even the most expensive clone by E.H.Pro is not as good as ToBeCo

You're thinking v4's. The KFL+v2 from Ehpro is the best version. Infinite went back to a smaller air hole (1.5mm?). It whistles more than the Ehpro (2 x 2mm air holes) but draw is about the same.
 
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