Kayfun LITE - Part 2
- Thread starter Dusty_D
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I find if a wick is too tight in the coil it will cause the juice to make popping noises.
Agreed. It's a bit of a guzzler.
I don't know why...and still haven't figured that one out yet...
My mind seems to have stalled after "solving" the suggestion of the use of lower nicotine levels...
I rewicked and cut it a bit shorter and the gurgling issue has gone away. Back to a nice quiet vape. Thanks!
So I put my iStick 20 on the charger last night and this morning when I went for my first vape I got the message "Low Atomizer." I looked at the screen and it said 0.5 ohms!? 
I unscrewed it some and the resistance jumped to over 2 ohms. I screwed it back down a little and it went back down to 0.5. Unscrewed again just a hair and got it back to 1.6 ohms or so. Has anyone had this problem? Is it something I should be concerned about? When I plugged the KFL into my ohm reader it's reading a consistent 1.68 ohms.
EDIT: Now it's reading 0.0 ohms and when I hit the button it's saying "Atomizer Short". If I unscrew it just a hair it reads back at around 1.7 ohms.
I unscrewed it some and the resistance jumped to over 2 ohms. I screwed it back down a little and it went back down to 0.5. Unscrewed again just a hair and got it back to 1.6 ohms or so. Has anyone had this problem? Is it something I should be concerned about? When I plugged the KFL into my ohm reader it's reading a consistent 1.68 ohms.EDIT: Now it's reading 0.0 ohms and when I hit the button it's saying "Atomizer Short". If I unscrew it just a hair it reads back at around 1.7 ohms.
Last edited:
So I put my iStick 20 on the charger last night and this morning when I went for my first vape I got the message "Low Atomizer." I looked at the screen and it said 0.5 ohms!?
EDIT: Now it's reading 0.0 ohms and when I hit the button it's saying "Atomizer Short". If I unscrew it just a hair it reads back at around 1.7 ohms.
I would check the 510 connection. Might be the screw hitting the inside of the threaded part.
And tighten that 510 positive screw while being sure that the posi part of the deck (the part sitting on the insulator) stays straight. Also be sure that your coil legs are clear of the deck.
Your problem (jumping ohms) is common Chromag, and almost always a loose center screw.
Last edited:
Guessing your 510 in the iSick is shorted. I've read you can pry it up gently and some add an o ring under the + pin.
Would the ohm meter show a short if it was an issue with the 510 connector? I have the tobeco meter where the KFL screws into it. It doesn't look like it's touching the inside of the threaded piece or anything. Not sure about the deck - haven't disassembled it yet. When the juice in the tank runs low I'll take a closer look.
I sure hope it's not the 510 pin on the iStick. I've only had the thing for a couple weeks and I like it a lot. I've found that if I screw it down then back it out just a hair it reads at the correct 1.6-1.7 ohms and fires just fine.
Thanks for the help.
I sure hope it's not the 510 pin on the iStick. I've only had the thing for a couple weeks and I like it a lot. I've found that if I screw it down then back it out just a hair it reads at the correct 1.6-1.7 ohms and fires just fine.
Thanks for the help.
It is the iStick that has the problem, the 510 connector/pin on the KFL is too long and it compresses the iStick's 510 so much that it shorts out.
I would follow Woofer's instructions and put a #60 o-ring under the iStick's pin. You can pick up Eleaf's Bending Adapter for it or always use an Ego to 510 adapter. The threads are very poor on the 20W and will eventually strip out on you.
Same problem in this thread here.
Thread: Eleaf iStick shows short on kayfun and other tanks. Please help
And the ultimate fix is FDV 510 replacement or a different unit such as a 30W or 50W etc...
I would follow Woofer's instructions and put a #60 o-ring under the iStick's pin. You can pick up Eleaf's Bending Adapter for it or always use an Ego to 510 adapter. The threads are very poor on the 20W and will eventually strip out on you.
Same problem in this thread here.
Thread: Eleaf iStick shows short on kayfun and other tanks. Please help
And the ultimate fix is FDV 510 replacement or a different unit such as a 30W or 50W etc...
I'm actually using some adapter that came with it because it looks better. It lifts the KFL up off the top of the iStick. I posted a pic of it a few pages back.
I'll post it again...
You can't really see the adapter to well in that pic but you get the idea.
Last edited:
That does not look better with that adapter on it. It would look a lot better without it.
Just tried taking it off and screwing the KFL directly into the iStick and I get a "No Atomizer" message
I would say the pin on the iStick is pushed too far down. What you can do it take a little screwdriver and gently pry the center pin of the iStick up, work your way around the pin prying in a new location each time.
Then try the KFL on it and see if it works.
Then try the KFL on it and see if it works.
Worked perfectly! Slight pry all the way around a few times and it's making a connection. Also seems to be working fine when screwed down. No issue with a short or showing low resistance. Screwed directly into the iStick and it's showing 1.6 ohms. Maybe it was some funkiness with the adapter?
Thanks for the help!
EDIT: also as a followup to a previous post - I've just ordered my favorite juice in 6mg nic levels. Decided to step it down. I started at 18 (what I used with my Protank2) which was way too high. I dropped to 12 and it still seemed like a bit much. The KFL is delivering a lot of flavor but also nic levels.
Last edited:
You are most welcome!
One of your devices or the Ego adapter has a longer 510 connector than all the other ones do. It pushes the iSticks pin down too far and it stays there. I made a little round washer from the plastic of an expired credit card to put between the long device and the iStick. If the CC plastic is to thick, then the plastic from the lid of a margarine container works great as well.
I find 6mg perfect in the Kayfun but too much in my Origen Dripper, for that I use either 3mg or 0mg.
One of your devices or the Ego adapter has a longer 510 connector than all the other ones do. It pushes the iSticks pin down too far and it stays there. I made a little round washer from the plastic of an expired credit card to put between the long device and the iStick. If the CC plastic is to thick, then the plastic from the lid of a margarine container works great as well.
I find 6mg perfect in the Kayfun but too much in my Origen Dripper, for that I use either 3mg or 0mg.
For those thinking of getting a spare Kayfun, MFS has a sale at a very reasonable price. PLUS, as an ECF member you get an additional 10% off.
Last edited:
Ok so I'm not the only one who has seen that sale...
Do we know if it is a clone? Not that it matters a whole helluva lot to me, as it would rub shoulders with my collection of clones and authentics, but I always like to know for sure.
So I put my iStick 20 on the charger last night and this morning when I went for my first vape I got the message "Low Atomizer." I looked at the screen and it said 0.5 ohms!?
EDIT: Now it's reading 0.0 ohms and when I hit the button it's saying "Atomizer Short". If I unscrew it just a hair it reads back at around 1.7 ohms.
In my personal opinion, you may want to look into a Provari...
If having a regulated device that will work every time is important to you, it's definitely the way to go.
Yes, it is one of many great regulated mods out there, but it is one of few that have stood the test of time. The moment I decided it was the device for me? The day my friend dropped his while pulling it from his pocket, as I was backing my truck out of the driveway...and the two met. He wasn't even worried! He calmly walked over to the end of the driveway, and picked it up, dusted it off and took a puff! Other than a few minor cosmetic blemishes, it was perfectly fine!
Now, I had been using a SmokTech ZMAX back in those days, and a simple hip-height drop had caused the top cap to come loose. I was able to press it back in, but it was always loose. So needless to say, I was sold on Provari when I saw that even my truck didn't kill one.
It was a jump in price, from what I had thought of paying to replace the ZMAX, but luckily Provape offers blemished devices at a discount. And let me tell you, I bought one of those blemished devices...three years later, and I still can't find the blemish!!! No joke!
This wasn't meant to be a Provari commercial, I promise. I just saw a fellow vaper in need, and wanted to share my experience with a great device that would help solve the issue!
At $13.8, guess what, it's a clone, but a very nice one. I have a couple of them and very happy with their performance.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
