Feel free to try Rip's method.....but its completely different than a lot of us are doing over in the just hemp thread. I didn't listen to Rip's video (can't stand to hear him) so I don't know what he said, but I did see two major differences.
Before we get to the major differences....When making micro coils do yourself a favor and do what has been taught in this thread and many others....and that is squeeze the coil using some tweezers/etc and hit it with a butane torch. Rip's video could have been half the length if he would have used the technique.
1 - Don't leave a gap between the air hole and the coil. I have a Russian and 5/64" or 2mm drill bit fits perfect inside the air hole. I wrap the coil, then torch and squeeze, then put it back on the drill bit and insert the drill bit into the air hole, then make the coil connections. Leaving the drill bit in makes it much easier to make the coil connection and keep the coil centered over the air hole. After the coil connections are made I remove the drill bit and dry burn the coil and press down on the coil to further press the coils together and press against the air hole. Once that is to my liking (it might take two or three times) I put the drill bit back in while apply the wick.
2 - Wrap the coil fairly tightly similar to how Rip did it, but then fill the chimney tube to the top of the coil with loosely fluffed cotton/hemp, you don't want it packed tight but fill it up. As long as its not over packed it works just fine, it also helps with flooding from laying the atty on it side. Some will say that there Kayfun never floods.....but on a conventional Kayfun build it could very easily flood if the atty is laid so that one inlet opening is open to air and the other one is open to juice. I keep the drill bit in the coil until both stages of the wick is complete. Then I prime the wick in the chimney, put it back together and fill.
