Kayfun LITE

[Zbeast08]

I gotcha, then you would mount the coil with the legs at the bottom and the coils sitting tall, correct? Thanks


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[finagle69]

I gotcha, then you would mount the coil with the legs at the bottom and the coils sitting tall, correct? Thanks


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Yep. That's how I mount mine.

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[bsoplinger]

I gotcha, then you would mount the coil with the legs at the bottom and the coils sitting tall, correct? Thanks

Here's a link to my pictures in this thread. I mount my coil much higher than most do, I'm only offering them since they show the legs really well since the coil sits so high.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=12576881
Edit: looks like ECF lost my pics, reposting:

View attachment 317145

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[TheKiwi]

Here's how I do mine

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[Ladiekali]

I had mu first build opposite if yours, whats the difference?

 

[bsoplinger]

I had mu first build opposite if yours, whats the difference?

You can do it either way. It's just easier with the orientation shown in the last few pics because the legs of the coil wrap around the screws such that the act of tightening the screw draws the wire tight under the screw. You want the legs to wrap around the shaft of the screw in a clockwise direction because that's the direction that the screw head moves when you tighten it. If you try it in the opposite direction the wire has a tendency to move away from the shaft as you tighten.

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[UncleChuck]

I had a quick question on nano kits. The finish on the one I have doesn't match up as well as I'd like with the finish on the KFL; they are both a brushed finish, but the nano rings are more bright/shiny where as the Kayfun is more matte/satin finished by comparison. The nano rings are also thinner by a razor's edge margin, as in the outer diameter is a hair smaller than the base and top cap of the kayfun.

I'm not sure who made the kit I have, I got it locally and forgot to ask the brand, it was just the chimney cap and the rings, no tank or anything. The shop carries a lot of high-end stuff so I'm thinking it's not the cheap fast tech one, but I guess anything is possible.

I posted this same pic earlier, but it slightly shows the difference in color/finish and diameter if you look closely:



What different companies make the standard nano kits (not including different caps and tanks)? Any match up perfectly with the KFL+ finish and diameter?

 

[TheKiwi]

I had mu first build opposite if yours, whats the difference?

To be honest when I first got into rebuilding, pretty much every rebuild guide for the kayfun emphasized on making sure that the leads are both at the bottom, and I just stuck to it.

I have however since found that having the leads at the bottom almost certainly ensures shorter leads length between coil and posts. That's always a good thing; more consistent resistance and less hot legs.

In any case, it's just easier to build; you have the leads starting at a level parallel to how to want it to be (wrapped around the screw posts) eventually.


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[Bimini Twist]

...
I def wouldn't recommend it. as a general rule of thumb for rebuilding, there should only be 2 metal parts in contact with a coil, and they are the 2 leads. having the coil sit directly ON the deck can lead to all kinda issues, such as varying resistance. And I can almost guarantee you'll either experience:
1) uber long heating time because the positive block is conducting heat away from the coil
2) if you're patient enough and the coil does heat up, you'll melt the insulator. (i speak from painful experience hhahahhahaha)

I only use vertical chimney coils in my KFs, but I always press the coil down to the deck. I don't experience either of those issues. I tried it after seeing bapgood's comments to rip tripper's method 400 some odd pages back: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...tems/436118-kayfun-lite-504.html#post11262211

I also fill the chamber with cotton fluffs as shown, though I may try without that step on my next re-wick. I have not tried a twisted coil on a KF yet.

 

[TheKiwi]

Interesting. Then again, I've only done that once, and a melted insulator was enough to scare me off for good. I guess if it works, all the better! Although I don't see myself ever trying it again hahahaha
I've seen that build before: kinda makes it into a nice soupy carto. Doesn't stuffing that much cotton make it prone to potential wicking issues?

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[TheKiwi]

Oops double post

 

[Bimini Twist]

Perhaps, but I haven't had wicking problems, either. Most of my juices are 70/30 PG/VG, but I've also run quite a few tanks of Boba's.

I am also one of those lucky types when it comes to coils/meshes/wicks and non-whistlers.

ETA: Not stuffing the cotton, but lightly placing little fluffy puffs in there.

 

[ronpaek100]

[SvoëMesto EDU] - For our friends using the Kayfun 3.1 or Mini 2.1

The filling valve (only on Kayfun 3.1 and 2.1 Mini) is basically a tiny spring loaded ball, that gets pushed back, when juice flows through the valve and springs back in its original position, when no more pressure is applied and seals the system.
However, sometimes the ball can get stuck in a wrong position, which can cause, that the system is not sealed anymore and therefore starts to leak.

Here are 5 easy steps to fix that problem:

You'll need:
-Your Kayfun 3.1 or 2.1 Mini
-An empty bottle with a slim tip
-a tooth pick

1) Make sure the valve is clean and no dirt particles or fibrous material is is constricting the valve. Therefore follow the cleaning instruction shown in this video:
SvoeMesto Kayfun Fill Port Cleaning - YouTube

2) Reassemble you atomizer without a wick or juice.

3) Blow into the mouthpiece while holding your finger over the air hole in the base and the air flow adjustment screw. If the valve is still not sealed, you should be able to force air through it from the inside out.

4) Gently push the ball in the valve with the toothpick while continuously blowing into the mouthpiece as described in step 3. That way the ball will find back in it's correct position.

5) Repeat until the system is sealed.

Voila! Now you should be good to go again!

(Valve shown on the picture is not the actual Kayfun valve. The picture is for illustrating purposes only.)

 

[TheKiwi]

Whoa.... That I did not know....


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[ronpaek100]

SvoёMesto can you please cover a topic on the tiny ball inside the air flow control valve in the new KFL+ v1 and v2? A lot of people are trying to take out the ball, does the ball prevent whistling?
Like · Reply · 1 hr

SvoёMesto Yes, that is its purpose. Thank you for your imput. We'll revisit that topic.
Unlike · 1 · 9 mins

 

[finagle69]

So is it possible to just buy short chimney sections anywhere? Or do you have to buy a whole nano kit?

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[bsoplinger]

So is it possible to just buy short chimney sections anywhere? Or do you have to buy a whole nano kit?

If you don't need the top cap, FastTech has $5 nano kits which are just reduced height metal ring sections and the reduced height chimney cap. Granted it'll take a month to get it, but it's cheap. I'm sure you could get genuine parts but that'd be expensive. Perhaps a search of eBay offerings would be the way to go.

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[blueGrassTubb]

You probably need the whole nano kit. I've never seen the small chimney offered by itself.

 

[finagle69]

Problem is, I bought a nano kit (around $25?). The sleeves screw up nicely, but the chimney doesn't thread onto any of my 3 authentics and 1 R91. I'll have to send the kit back.

 

[76bridget]

Problem is, I bought a nano kit (around $25?). The sleeves screw up nicely, but the chimney doesn't thread onto any of my 3 authentics and 1 R91. I'll have to send the kit back.

Where did you get the nano kit? Curious because mine shipped today from Vivid Smoke.