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kathi17

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sandman97289

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Take it apart. You may have something blocking the airway. It could also be that the air channel in the centrepost is not lined up with the air hole. Putting a paperclip down the air hole, and then carefully turning the centrepost screw will confirm that for you.

As for the crazy resistance readings, check to make sure you have tightened down the screws on your coil.

Thanks. The issue was that the legs of the coils were too close to the deck. I just raised them a bit and presto!

I just got a new dna30 device and am now trying to figure out the best wick for VCV 100% VG juices. Tending to get a lot of dry hits @ 11watts even. Probably need to thin down the wick.
 

Dusty_D

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Thanks. The issue was that the legs of the coils were too close to the deck. I just raised them a bit and presto!

I just got a new dna30 device and am now trying to figure out the best wick for VCV 100% VG juices. Tending to get a lot of dry hits @ 11watts even. Probably need to thin down the wick.


Just so you know, and others mileage may vary, but I've not had much luck with high VG juices in the KFL (specially with the juices that I vape). I keep having to hit it without firing to get the juice to the wick, and then fire it. To me that does not make for an enjoyable experience.
 

sandman97289

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Just so you know, and others mileage may vary, but I've not had much luck with high VG juices in the KFL (specially with the juices that I vape). I keep having to hit it without firing to get the juice to the wick, and then fire it. To me that does not make for an enjoyable experience.

Having the same experience so far. Have you tried a wider coil?
 

Dusty_D

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I'm using 3/32 drillbit (2.3mm). I don't want to go bigger than that..

finagle69, I have 4 KFL's and only the one V2 with AFC. I don't want to have to mess around with what KFL should I use with what juice all the time. Easier for me to get juice in the 70/30 or 80/20 range that will work with all my KFL's. Not a cloud chaser, so the higher VG does nothing for me.
 

bsoplinger

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I use a 2mm coil and tighten the AFC for VG juices.
Tightening the air flow will really help with thick, viscous e-liquid. You'll be drawing harder which will lower the pressure in the chamber which will increase the juice flow. After you're about 1/3 of a tank empty, opening and closing the fill screw can also help because it'll relieve any negative pressure in the tank which will also help with juice flow. As soon as you unscrew enough to break the seal of the tiny o-ring you'll hear a tiny hiss as air flows into the tank if you indeed have reduced pressure. I tend to unscrew whenever it seems my Kayfun isn't feeding properly and often get the tiny hiss and then no more feed issues. I'm unsure why I end up with a pressure drop in the tank, perhaps going from environment to environment (like inside to outside), perhaps since a tankful can last me a full day a change in barometric pressure?

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finagle69

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I'm using 3/32 drillbit (2.3mm). I don't want to go bigger than that..

finagle69, I have 4 KFL's and only the one V2 with AFC. I don't want to have to mess around with what KFL should I use with what juice all the time. Easier for me to get juice in the 70/30 or 80/20 range that will work with all my KFL's. Not a cloud chaser, so the higher VG does nothing for me.

Like you, I have 2 OG klites. Those are dedicated ADV 80/20 or 70/30 vapes. My klite + v1 is the one I play with thicker juices with. Along with my r91. Its not difficult.

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vapdivrr

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Dual nanos in my kayfun lite. Wrapped to .5 ohms, ~30 watts. Chucks the vapor, and flavor is awesome!
whats the diameter of your nanos? I run some nanos from time to time in my drippers but they are really nanos in which I have to use a cotton cloud instead of actually wicking thru them. I have messed around for a build in the kayfun that uses a cotton bed instead of thru coil but because of the bottom air hole found it almost impossible. so are these nanos wicked?
 

vapdivrr

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OK, opening up a fresh discussion here. As you know (at least speaking for the Svoemesto brand), there is no finer threading that can be found. As a person who has been around a lot of machining, I can say the thread quality of Svoemesto Kayfuns is as good as it gets. There is one drawback with such high quality of threads. They work REAL good! You get maximum holding forces and taking them apart can be adventurous. A few weeks ago I told Bridget I would mess around with some experimentation because she came to me asking if there was something that could be done to make it easier to unscrew the Kayfun segments. At that time I told her I knew mineral oil would work. I suggested mineral oil only because I know humans can digest it safely in the event microscopic amounts end up in the juice. Preferably, it would be nice if e-liquid could be used for the same. So I saturated a q-tip and swabbed my threads before putting my Kayfun together (prior, I just smeared a little on the oring only). After a couple tanks it was time to take it apart to see if it was easier to unthread. I can answer in the affirmative for all the connections except for the lower SS segment to the deck. That was as difficult as ever. Not sure why (more heat down there maybe). But anyway, I tried something different this time. I just slopped the juice on the threads this time (instead of swabbing). So I'll see how that works when I take it apart next time.

As always, I would be interested in hearing other's testimonials and solutions to this problem.

hey bronze, it can be difficult for sure sometimes to undo the kayfun, I often wish the top and bottom were slightly knurled for a better grip. for some reason I find it slightly easier to undo the top first, once that's off, I go after the bottom.
 

Jerms

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OK, opening up a fresh discussion here. As you know (at least speaking for the Svoemesto brand), there is no finer threading that can be found. As a person who has been around a lot of machining, I can say the thread quality of Svoemesto Kayfuns is as good as it gets. There is one drawback with such high quality of threads. They work REAL good! You get maximum holding forces and taking them apart can be adventurous. A few weeks ago I told Bridget I would mess around with some experimentation because she came to me asking if there was something that could be done to make it easier to unscrew the Kayfun segments. At that time I told her I knew mineral oil would work. I suggested mineral oil only because I know humans can digest it safely in the event microscopic amounts end up in the juice. Preferably, it would be nice if e-liquid could be used for the same. So I saturated a q-tip and swabbed my threads before putting my Kayfun together (prior, I just smeared a little on the oring only). After a couple tanks it was time to take it apart to see if it was easier to unthread. I can answer in the affirmative for all the connections except for the lower SS segment to the deck. That was as difficult as ever. Not sure why (more heat down there maybe). But anyway, I tried something different this time. I just slopped the juice on the threads this time (instead of swabbing). So I'll see how that works when I take it apart next time.

As always, I would be interested in hearing other's testimonials and solutions to this problem.

I use straight VG (bought at Wal-Mart) on the orings and threads when putting my KFL together. I just put a few drops around the orings and go around it with a finger. VG is a good lube and no worries about safety.
 

Bronze

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I use straight VG (bought at Wal-Mart) on the orings and threads when putting my KFL together. I just put a few drops around the orings and go around it with a finger. VG is a good lube and no worries about safety.

I did the same thing except I'm using my standard 70/30. I'll know next time I take it apart. The VG is probably better. Hell, my arm pit stick has VG in it. Maybe I can smear that on it. :laugh:
 

finagle69

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Got my clear innards kits from FT the other day.

8eme5egy.jpg


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finagle69

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SKU or URL pls! I was JUST on FT last night looking for something like that. The only one I found was frosted.


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Its what you found. I'm using a clear tank section that I bought elsewhere. The barrel and chimney are frosted, but they clear up nicely when wet.

I have the full frosted setup going too, but its noticeably less see thru.

u8y5aga6.jpg


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Xaviour

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This has probably been answered before but there is over 1000 pages in this thread. How do you get the positive pin lined up with the air passage? If I get it lined up then the block is not tight. If I get it tight then its not lined up and the draw is tight. The air holes in the pin correspond with the slot where the screw driver fits. Hope im explaining this OK.
20140518_231015.jpg
 

vapdivrr

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This has probably been answered before but there is over 1000 pages in this thread. How do you get the positive pin lined up with the air passage? If I get it lined up then the block is not tight. If I get it tight then its not lined up and the draw is tight. The air holes in the pin correspond with the slot where the screw driver fits. Hope im explaining this OK.
View attachment 337214

that's odd, I have 4 kayfuns and everyone is perfectly lined up. are you saying that if you tighten the block by turning the 510 screw and then completely take out the airflow screw completely out, you cannot slide in some kind of needle all the way thu the hole in the 510 screw tube? and then if you adjust the 510 tube screw so you can slide in a thin needle, your positive block is loose? is your positive block damaged or is sitting away from base? if so maybe the thickness of the insulator is slightly different somehow or the 510 insulator is damaged
 
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