same juice in it that you always used? I know some of my strawberry juices just don't work to well at higher wattages. all my other juices work fantastic even up to 20 watts but a couple just don't.
- Status
same juice in it that you always used? I know some of my strawberry juices just don't work to well at higher wattages. all my other juices work fantastic even up to 20 watts but a couple just don't.
threads are all tight? I remember dropping one of my kayfuns once, it cross threaded the plastic tank section which messed with me until I realized the problem, other then that maybe its one of the orings? sometimes taking off all orings and checking them, cleaning them and flipping them around helps.
I guess that will be the next option. But getting no leaks so I am assuming the seals are good? I dropped the watts down to 10 instead of normal 15 watts that the other 2 work just fine at. So far it is not drying out after I cracked the top piece (then screwed back down tight) to allow some more air in
Cracking the top open did not work... its dry again....ugh
Cracking the top open did not work... its dry again....ugh
Last edited:
99 percent of the time the kayfuns are very easy but like you there have been times where I had to make like multiple builds to get it right and never knew what the hell it was once I finally did get it working, in the end its usually the amount of cotton
Last edited:
Yes I agree 99% time nothing to it.... trying one thing at a time so for future reference I will now what causes this....
When I'm troubleshooting something on my website, I have to make myself do this, so I know exactly what I did, if it causes an error -- or if there's an error, to fix just *one* thing at a time, so I know exactly what fixed it!
Andria
I know on my kayfuns the airflow works at any position but have heard of issues once this airflow control is moved. sometimes screwing and unscrewing the atty from the mod can turn this screw, just another possibility
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
I'm wondering if there's anything that can be done for the pitiful airflow in that cheapie kayfun lite clone I have. I also have a couple of the tobeco clones with the 2mm airflow, and I generally run them about half-way, closed or open, whichever way you'd describe it, but the kayfun lite has the standard airflow hole, and no way to adjust anything about it, and it's really tight, like there's almost no airflow at all. Naturally it causes a lot of burning, at a fairly low wattage.
Andria
Andria
Andria I have the same problem with some of my kfl+ clones I just found one on eBay made by J-Stream and it's just as airy as my Russian 91. It comes with a a pre-installed wick and a o-ring below the chimney and at first it seems like it won't screw all the way down but if you force it the threads will fix themselves to go down all the way I just remove that oring below the chimney. I also had to use a 1/16 drill bit to deepen the juice channels they are very shallow (I need to get a dremel but it worked for now) and this thing is vaping like a champ now with much better airflow then my other KFL + clone. V2 V3 etc etc
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
I'd agree, looks decently moist. The only suggestion I could offer, try a lower gauge wire (thicker) with more wraps so that you'll distribute the heat over a larger area. Alternatively same gauge but smaller diameter and more wraps.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
Same build on 3 kayfuns (just did them tonite) works great on two of them at 15 watts on dna30. I lowered the watts down to 10 on this one but as soon as the juice from setup is used up it burns... does not wick.
Just changed the chimmney and tank to my clear full size tank.... still does not wick.
Going to tear down center pin and all and recoil and rewick it .......... again
Just changed the chimmney and tank to my clear full size tank.... still does not wick.
Going to tear down center pin and all and recoil and rewick it .......... again
Not exactly sure what you mean about an o-ring below the chimney; this one has the usual o-rings.
Here are some pics of my problem child; maybe some of you kayfun experts can spot some obvious problem that I'm completely unaware of, being so new to these things.
Andria
For me your coil is way too high above the air hole... but I am only batting 67% two working great and one not....lol
I have mine stipped down... I dont see any issues putting it back together... glad I have lots of juice
I have mine stipped down... I dont see any issues putting it back together... glad I have lots of juice
Not exactly sure what you mean about an o-ring below the chimney; this one has the usual o-rings.
Here are some pics of my problem child; maybe some of you kayfun experts can spot some obvious problem that I'm completely unaware of, being so new to these things.
Andria
I don't set it quite that high on my others, that have better airflow; this was one possible way to help the airflow in this one, but it doesn't seem to be helping that much. Likewise the large diameter and spaced wraps, just trying to let the thing breathe. I have no earthly idea why it's such a tight draw, it's like a cartotank, I swear; I let the wick ends rest on the little ledges, and make sure they're all neatly placed before I screw on the chimney bottom, then do any slight adjusting and a couple more drops of juice before I screw the top on. I'm not *perfect* in knowing exactly the right amount everytime for the cotton, but I'm getting better at it, with practice. At least I'm getting more good hits, by far, than bad ones, with my other 2 with decent airflow. This one, I can sometimes get a decent taste from, but it's always very tight.
Andria
Andria
I just noticed the size of the airhole on that and it seems tiny by comparison to those I have. Other than drilling out the hole to a larger diameter I can offer just 1 suggestion and it may not apply to that model clone.
The center pin, the part that's the center of the 510 connector and who's other end holds the positive deck in place. It has the hole in the center up at the deck. It is solid at the bottom, where it's the center pin of the 510 connector. The way air gets into the center hole is a hole that goes outward, that should line up with the airhole in the base. If it doesn't line up airflow will suffer. Use something that will fit into the base airhole like a bent paper clip. What you're going to try is pushing on the paper clip while you make the center post turn, looking to see if you can find an orientation that indicates you've gotten the airhole in the base lined up with the outward hole in the center pin. Depending on design, this will help you get things lined up or it will fail and make the positive block become loose.
Sorry best I can offer for help.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
The center pin, the part that's the center of the 510 connector and who's other end holds the positive deck in place. It has the hole in the center up at the deck. It is solid at the bottom, where it's the center pin of the 510 connector. The way air gets into the center hole is a hole that goes outward, that should line up with the airhole in the base. If it doesn't line up airflow will suffer. Use something that will fit into the base airhole like a bent paper clip. What you're going to try is pushing on the paper clip while you make the center post turn, looking to see if you can find an orientation that indicates you've gotten the airhole in the base lined up with the outward hole in the center pin. Depending on design, this will help you get things lined up or it will fail and make the positive block become loose.
Sorry best I can offer for help.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
I have no way of knowing, or seeing inside that small a hole, so I turned on the water just barely, and held just the edge of the base, where the airhole is, under the trickling water, and water does flow out of the center hole when I do that.
Andria
- Status
Similar threads
