Inside the air hole? Run drill bit in and out a few times to clean it up... I have not had this issue drilling out my kayfuns
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Word, ill run it after, everything on there is stuck on so when I get some more time Ill drill further.
0.98 build with 28g Kanthal. Will post results.
0.98 build with 28g Kanthal. Will post results.
vape quality is good. filled with 3mg Velvet Cloud Strawb Gwab def a difference in airdraw.
did the same to all my funs. at first I could tell the difference but now, not so much. I know it has helped but may try a few other mods to open slightly more. I have heard that countersinking the top hole (right under coil) helps a little, also countersinking the hole in the main 510 pin. after that not sure if any other modifications can work
Cool! Any idea where that came from? I'd like to credit it.
24 gauge Ti being about 2.3 ohms / meter jibes with my measurements. That's the equivalent of 19 gauge Kanthal! 8-o
Remember I said we needed thinner?
So far so good with the last 3 builds vaping homebre nets. I'm using a 5/64" bit 28g Kanthal and a 1/4" stip of the cotton pads. I think the biggest issue was to much cotton, the burn spot was always inside the coil.
That said the KFL is a bit better than the Aerotank mega but not night and day. Biggest thing is saving on the price of coils, with nets you go thru them fast.
That said the KFL is a bit better than the Aerotank mega but not night and day. Biggest thing is saving on the price of coils, with nets you go thru them fast.
not sure. I saw it posted on the reddit thread on the subject: http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_..._now_is_titanium_resistance_wire_going_to_be/
Good to hear Regal! Generally for me, the amount of cotton is generally the culprit. I use WTA infused liquids so I don't have the same issue. I do have a favorite "atty gunker" that has me changing my cotton every 3 mls. I haven't tried it in a KFL because it is just easier to re-wick in my Reo. Yes, a bit of cotton goes a long way
This idea is not original with me (wish I could remember who posted the pic and description), I'm just sharing it:
Install your wick as usual and put on the chimney sleeve.
Take a wick-sized strip of cotton, form it into a ring and place it into the top of the chimney.
Arrange the cotton with a toothpick, lightly pushing it down so that it touches the shoulders of the wick and is clear of the chimney center.
Juice the cotton ring as you would a new wick.
Screw on the chimney hat, reinstall the tank and fill.
The benefit of this 'halo' as I'm calling it, is that it seems to reduce the amount of popping and spitting from the coil. I think it does it by acting as a reservoir to quickly replenish juice to the ends of the wick where they enter the coil.
Install your wick as usual and put on the chimney sleeve.
Take a wick-sized strip of cotton, form it into a ring and place it into the top of the chimney.
Arrange the cotton with a toothpick, lightly pushing it down so that it touches the shoulders of the wick and is clear of the chimney center.
Juice the cotton ring as you would a new wick.
Screw on the chimney hat, reinstall the tank and fill.
The benefit of this 'halo' as I'm calling it, is that it seems to reduce the amount of popping and spitting from the coil. I think it does it by acting as a reservoir to quickly replenish juice to the ends of the wick where they enter the coil.
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I'm sorry, but I'm having a hell of a time trying to visualize that. Any chance you could post a pictorial?
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I get it, and it is a variation of the pdib comb over, and the navy nest. Violates the SuperX rule of never use too much wick, and did not work well for me. I point the coil ends at the channels and use as little as wick as possible. But others have different requirements for clouds, flavor, sticky juices, different wick materials, etc. So, take my advice as just free advice.
I'm not much good when trying to take photos of small details, but I'll give it a go later when I get a chance.
Pretty simple really-- just a ring of wick material placed inside the chimney, hugging the inner wall, then poked down with a toothpick until it lightly contacts the real wick on both sides, at the part where it bends coming out of the coil. Must be thoroughly primed with juice.
I should probably mention that I have my AFC set fairly tight so the draw is similar to a carto. It feeds plenty of 65/35 juice but there's no gurgling.
I'm sharing this here for your info.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=12152622
I'm still new to this so I found this site to be very helpful while building coils.
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
Anyone know where to buy an extension kit for the EHPro KFL+v2? Tried searching the forum but came up blank.
Vaperev Shop - Accessories - SvoëMesto - Rebuildables
3 pages of extra parts, Long mode parts in stock.
I'm actually amused that folks would wanna go into long mod. I've seen a couple of those, and they were longer than some of my mechs in 18350 and even 18500 mode.
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