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Another cause of flooding/leaking through the airhole (I found out the hard way) is if you accidentally cover the air hole while taking a hit, it will flood the sh^t out of it, and it will leak for sure. Sometimes you dont even know your covering the hole - I know now when I do it cause I done it so many times, and I catch myself before flooding it.... but I thought I'd mention this and maybe something he's doing, maybe not. Hope we can help.....
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I think on mine, it's just condensation. Because it only seeps when I'm vaping it. It doesn't leak when it's sitting. The reason I think it's condensation is because after I take a drag, vapor comes out of the air hole for a bit.
Well, I have tried a higher voltage and it starts to taste burnt. Anyway, I just refilled it and I moved the wick closer to the juice channels to see if I can make it wick less and hopefully, no dry hits. And just to clarify, it's not leaking anymore with a new top o-ring but it's gurgling and you see the juice about to come out of the air hole but it doesn't. With the old o-ring, it will just leak out. Let's see what happens.
Thanks so much guys for posting suggestions and what possible issues I've been having.
dual micros 10/9 wrap 28g .78 ohms + cotton. really flavorful and strong TH.
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minimum order: $5.00 worth = 167 #8 o-rings
Shipping: $5.00
167 orings to your door $10.00, 6¢ each delivered.
Make sure you choose the silicon material.
dual micros 10/9 wrap 28g .78 ohms + cotton. really flavorful and strong TH.
Sick ! Are you running this on a mech or vv.....those coils look like the ideal placement for ergonomical wicks to hang down in the wetlands....impressive
Looks like the air intake is totally open inbetween the 2 coils, I can totally see the hole....would think it'd be airy hit-maybe the heat and vapor generated by the 2 are keeping up.....? I'm suprsied this works....great job!
Its like KFL supercharger day
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running on a mech! yeah the placement just makes so much sense. each coil has its own juice feed and keeps up. a bit tricky to mount. could be cleaner/symmetrical but hey it works!
I don't know if someone has mentioned this, but it is somewhat important to hit the fire button before the inhale and to release the button after you finish inhaling. I catch myself inhaling prior to firing and it does seem to draw in a little extra liquid and cause it to gurgle more than normal. This would be similar to taking a primer puff prior to firing.
It does when you leave it in your car on a 102º day and inside temperature is around 120º
I went into an appointment the other day. Got back in my car an hour later, when for a hit and there was juice running half way down my device. Maybe next time I'll turn it upside down.
Thanks!
The diameter of kanthal, which is it? 0,28 mm?
Thanks!!
+ 1 vapdyvr
Look for Kanthal wire A1 28 Gauge
Its .32004 mm if your asking
I doubt you'll find any locally, probably have to order....
Here's where I get mine, great deal :
Kanthal 28 Gauge AWG A1 Wire 25ft Roll 32004mm 5 27 Ohms ft Resistance | eBay
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Yep D, they are touching each other. In dual coils it's a non issue.
I've tried micro coils in my Nimbus and felt like they took too long to fire. Haven't tried cotton yet.
I agree with your "more wick area covered, more betta" statement though. I will probably try rebuilding with 0.8 ribbon wire before I try another microcoil but who knows.
I'm just glad everyone is trying (and showing) different builds on the KFL!
if doing a true micro coil there is no heat sink, the vapor is pretty much instant. the common diameter is 1/16 to wrap your coil around. using this diameter and wire gauges from 27g to 30g for vv devices and thicker gauges for mechanical mods(although you can use any gauges really for mechanicals) along with cotton, your vape will be instant unless you let say use a thicker gauge wire like 28 or 27, on a vv device, and do really high resistances like above 2.0. this would amount to 15 micro wraps or something close to that, with this amount of wraps the heat up time would be a lot more. for vv devices use 27 thru 30g wire for resistances at or below 1.7. for mechanical mods use 29g thru 26g and resistances from 1.1 to .6Ω. these are just my recommendations and are in no way the only set ups you can do, also please know every possible safety precautions if doing sub-ohm set-ups.
It does when you leave it in your car on a 102º day and inside temperature is around 120º
I went into an appointment the other day. Got back in my car an hour later, when for a hit and there was juice running half way down my device. Maybe next time I'll turn it upside down.
same here, I have left my device in a car and it also leaks for a while
this brings us to another issue player, if done correctly your set-up shouldn't taste burnt at that voltage, well tbh I don't use 30g wire on micro's so im not 100% sure but I know loads of people who do use 30g and resistances around 2.0 who don't have any burnt taste issues. like I said yesterday it is very possible that your wick is slightly under sized. with a proper micro & cotton set-up you should be able to push to 5 v without a burn taste. in the mean time just work with what you have, but I would recommend trying 28g wire. I believe the 28g wont burn as much and at the same time have more coverage on the wick, also the coil will last a lot longer without deforming. because the 28g is thicker the wire temp will be cooler at the point of contact with the cotton, this will reduce the possibilities of burn. also the thicker gauge wire will produce a better flavor. all in all I think you will have better success with 28g instead of 30g
dual micros 10/9 wrap 28g .78 ohms + cotton. really flavorful and strong TH.
love it. looks awesome my man. this is one build that you really don't want to use batterys smaller then 18650's
I guess now with the dna-20 that question is fairly legitimate because to my knowledge the dna-20 would be the only vv device that could possibly run resistances that low.
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