Kayfun LITE

[JD1]

........ We just need to get a subohm coil that he can use. He uses mechs and that's what he prefers. .....

I can totally understand that. It is different and any time there's a difference some will prefer it one way and some the other. Back when I was switching over, I remember wishing the vape was warmer and drier. You get that with sub ohm.

Yesterday, I tested my immortalizer clone with a .5 ohm ribbon coil. The vapor was warmer, (not hot) with intense flavor. If I could have tried that back when I was first switching over I'm pretty sure I would of jumped on that big time. Not anymore though. After 9 or 10 vapes, I pulled the ribbon, and put in a 32 ga, 1.4 ohm, single coil, duel wire wrapped side by side around a 5/64th bit. Awwww, much better lol.

The answer for him may well be the so called micro coil. According to it's pundits, a micro in the 1.3 range vapes similar to a larger coil in the .8 ohm range. They have to be well fed though.

Also, ribbon might be a good experiment for him. Search utube for 'rip trippers', scroll down and select his 'The Tin Man Coil' video.

 

[bustabo]

Well I have been battling the Kayfun for the past week, would work good for a bit then would just get dry hits.

I some how managed to get my wife's working perfectly. Same wick for the last 4 days nt a single dry hit.

I built hers on a 5/64 bit at 1ohm 28g kanthal with a cotton ball wick. Somehow I must have gotten the wick density perfect, something I'm having a hard time trying to master. So I tried to replicate it but with a .7ohm coil..... Couldn't get it to work. Dry hits constantly.

I then figured switching to cotton yarn to be able to replicate the wick density easier. I followed manjis you tube video using a 3/32 bit and used three small strands of yarn doubled over.

Did it exactly the same as him but I wanted lower ohms so I did like 5 wraps I think but with such a huge diameter coil it wasn't very long. Dry hits again

I figured that since the coil was so short the heat was concentrated on such a small portion of wick that it was just burning the juice almost instantly.

I now use a 5/64 bit, 28g at 1.4ohm and two small strands of yarn doubled over and pulled thru. Raised the coil so the bottom is just about even with the top of the terminal screws. I lay my wick just like it shows in the manual.

I slapped it together quick and had a ton of leakage put the air hole and I think the 4c oring was messed up so I got home today and took it apart and made sure it was seated correctly.

No leaks. No dry hits. Has been perfect and now this is easy to replicate. My only issue is its a little too cool of a Vape. I'm gonna rebuild it next time I have to fill the tank and ill take a couple of pics of how I set it up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[Bronze]

Well I have been battling the Kayfun for the past week, would work good for a bit then would just get dry hits.

I some how managed to get my wife's working perfectly. Same wick for the last 4 days nt a single dry hit.

I built hers on a 5/64 bit at 1ohm 28g kanthal with a cotton ball wick. Somehow I must have gotten the wick density perfect, something I'm having a hard time trying to master. So I tried to replicate it but with a .7ohm coil..... Couldn't get it to work. Dry hits constantly.

I then figured switching to cotton yarn to be able to replicate the wick density easier. I followed manjis you tube video using a 3/32 bit and used three small strands of yarn doubled over.

Did it exactly the same as him but I wanted lower ohms so I did like 5 wraps I think but with such a huge diameter coil it wasn't very long. Dry hits again

I figured that since the coil was so short the heat was concentrated on such a small portion of wick that it was just burning the juice almost instantly.

I now use a 5/64 bit, 28g at 1.4ohm and two small strands of yarn doubled over and pulled thru. Raised the coil so the bottom is just about even with the top of the terminal screws. I lay my wick just like it shows in the manual.

I slapped it together quick and had a ton of leakage put the air hole and I think the 4c oring was messed up so I got home today and took it apart and made sure it was seated correctly.

No leaks. No dry hits. Has been perfect and now this is easy to replicate. My only issue is its a little too cool of a Vape. I'm gonna rebuild it next time I have to fill the tank and ill take a couple of pics of how I set it up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

Good info. I am having trouble with Yeti's KFL as well. I get it to work fine at 1.8 ohms and above I go lower and it burns everything. I go 2mm ID (5/64ths)...similar to you. My next venture was to raise the coil off the airvent higher than it is. I get a funny whistling sound now (that's what is tipping me off). I'll try it bustabo.

 

[Dusty_D]

I have to take the time to tip my hat to those of you that experiment with different setups. You all make it easy for somebody like me that does not have the time to tweak as much as I would want.

Posting your working setups, along with hardware used is very helpful both to the advanced users, that are trying to diagnose an issue as well as the relative newbie that wants to get instant gratification.

Thank you!!

 

[The Yeti]

The answer for him may well be the so called micro coil. According to it's pundits, a micro in the 1.3 range vapes similar to a larger coil in the .8 ohm range. They have to be well fed though.

I'm using a .7 ohm micro right now on my DID.

A 1.3 ohm micro just doesn't trip my trigger...I crave the crazy vapor + flavor that comes when you get down around .8-.7 ohms. 20-25 watts is my sweet spot for sure.

 

[bustabo]

I think most users are having issues because of too low ohm coils that have not enough surface area. (Big ID coil with too few wraps)

It's not spreading the heat to a big enough part of the coil. Vapdivrr can pull off his .6 because he's using a tiny ID coil with 26g and a ton of wraps. It has such a big surface area.

So using something like 28g and a 3/32 or 5/64 ID and trying to build a sub ohm coil is just not really going to heat up a big enough part of the wick.. Dry hits?




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[Mozzer]

I'm also running sub-Ω micros in my KFL and Squape. 9 wraps of 26g nichrome around a 1/16" ID cotton wick @ 0.6Ω. I use the exact same build in my genesis atties, also with cotton wicks. All working flawlessly.

 

[The Yeti]

Good info. I am having trouble with Yeti's KFL as well. I get it to work fine at 1.8 ohms and above I go lower and it burns everything. I go 2mm ID (5/64ths)...similar to you. My next venture was to raise the coil off the airvent higher than it is. I get a funny whistling sound now (that's what is tipping me off). I'll try it bustabo.

Hey, I thought that whistling was normal! Not everybody's KFL whistles?????

 

[The Yeti]

I'm also running sub-Ω micros in my KFL and Squape. 9 wraps of 26g nichrome around a 1/16" ID cotton wick @ 0.6Ω. I use the exact same build in my genesis atties, also with cotton wicks. All working flawlessly.

This is exactly how I was doing my micros in the KFL, but obviously with less stellar results.

 

[Dusty_D]

Hey, I thought that whistling was normal! Not everybody's KFL whistles?????

 

[WattWick]

I think most users are having issues because of too low ohm coils that have not enough surface area. (Big ID coil with too few wraps)

It's not spreading the heat to a big enough part of the coil. Vapdivrr can pull off his .6 because he's using a tiny ID coil with 26g and a ton of wraps. It has such a big surface area.

So using something like 28g and a 3/32 or 5/64 ID and trying to build a sub ohm coil is just not really going to heat up a big enough part of the wick.. Dry hits?

My very first coil on mine was a (to me) standard issue .8 ohm coil with 28 awg. With the included driptip and its narrow opening, it was like sucking on a laser that tried to cut my tongue in half. It almost succeeded, too.

 

[Mozzer]

The legs are not pretty (only noticed in the photo) but it really works well. Maybe it's partly due to the perpendicular arrangement. My wicks are only long enough to reach the base where the funnel threads start. They are only thick enough to move freely inside the coil - just touching perhaps.





Squape is at an angle in order to follow the trench. The wicks on this one are a bit longer, but only as long as the trenches down the side.

 

[qorax]

The Behemoth√ Sorry, just passing by

 

[Bronze]

I think most users are having issues because of too low ohm coils that have not enough surface area. (Big ID coil with too few wraps)

It's not spreading the heat to a big enough part of the coil. Vapdivrr can pull off his .6 because he's using a tiny ID coil with 26g and a ton of wraps. It has such a big surface area.

So using something like 28g and a 3/32 or 5/64 ID and trying to build a sub ohm coil is just not really going to heat up a big enough part of the wick.. Dry hits?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

This is what I think too.

 

[Mozzer]

I think most users are having issues because of too low ohm coils that have not enough surface area. (Big ID coil with too few wraps)

It's not spreading the heat to a big enough part of the coil. Vapdivrr can pull off his .6 because he's using a tiny ID coil with 26g and a ton of wraps. It has such a big surface area.

So using something like 28g and a 3/32 or 5/64 ID and trying to build a sub ohm coil is just not really going to heat up a big enough part of the wick.. Dry hits?

Another really big factor, and something that many are probably prone to, is choking the wick. We may have it in our heads that we're building a really high-power coil, and so we should have as much wick as possible. This is not the case. The wick should only be thick enough so that it moves with minimal resistance inside the coil, while expanded with juice. So, don't just roll it tight in order to make it move freely, because it may unravel and expand making it too tight under actual operating conditions.

 

[Bronze]

Another really big factor, and something that many are probably prone to, is choking the wick. We may have it in our heads that we're building a really high-power coil, and so we should have as much wick as possible. This is not the case. The wick should only be thick enough so that it moves with minimal resistance inside the coil, while expanded with juice. So, don't just roll it tight in order to make it move freely, because it may unravel and expand making it too tight under actual operating conditions.

Also agree.

 

[Vedak]

BUild my KFL up with 26g 7 wrap @ ~.8 ohms with cotton. Oh soo good!

 

[Mozzer]

BUild my KFL up with 26g 7 wrap @ ~.8 ohms with cotton. Oh soo good!

Sweet. I would have expected a lot lower resistance with 7 wraps. Is it kanthal? What's the diameter? Glad it's working well

 

[Vedak]

Sweet. I would have expected a lot lower resistance with 7 wraps. Is it kanthal? What's the diameter? Glad it's working well

I was expecting lower as well. lol my poor building skills could have played a major role in that.

I used a 7/64 drill bit. Temco A-1 Kanthal

 

[Bronze]

BUild my KFL up with 26g 7 wrap @ ~.8 ohms with cotton. Oh soo good!

Vedak, what is then inside diameter of your coil and did you bunch the wraps together or spread them out?