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Rule62

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I haven't tried 28ga (cuz I don't have it). I'm using 30ga and yielding 1.8 ohms. Works fine. I'll give the 28 ga a spin whenever I get the wire.

Thanks

When I first got my kayfun #1, I used 30g, in order to get the number of wraps I wanted. They also came out about like yours; 1.7 or 1.8 ohms. They worked well on the Provari. About the same number of wraps with 28g gets me down to around 1.2.
 

evgeny131

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vapemail: some new juices (and old favorites....along with favorite gear)
qXhIgyD.jpg

G2Vapor Prime(new), The Standard, five pawns, Suicide Bunny(new), The Blueprint(new)
so far based on sampling both Suicide Bunny and The Blueprint are VERY good IMHO....
G2Vapor Prime- EXCELLENT but somewhat dangerous for plastic tanks.....(Banana, Pineapple)
iXKMXCD.jpg
 

donnah

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1.2 ohm micro coil, with 28g kanthal. It gives good range of adjustment, and provides similar vape to my usual .8 or .9 conventional coil genesis/mesh builds that I use on the mechanicals.

To build for a vv device, I shoot for 1.2Ω also... it allows the highest wattage while still remaining under the amp ceiling. With a 1.2Ω coil, you can go up to 4.1v and get 14watts... anything lower and you'll hit the 3.5amp ceiling before you get near 14 watts.

I would suspect the tightness of the center screw that goes in from the bottom towards the base of the positive terminal. Tighten that just a bit and recheck your resistance. Dont tighten this with a fully built kfl. Do it with the deck outside of the device and grab the deck with a thick set of pliers so that the base of the positive terminal doesnt rotate.

I was thinking this exact same thing. A few pages back I noticed that my original kfl seems to be um.. "less powerful or peppy" than the one I just got. When I first got my original kfl, the platform thing that the coil goes on.. it got knocked askew and I rightened it but never thought about tightening it at the 510 connection. I wonder if it's a bit loose and that could be causing it to be a bit wimpy. I would have never noticed it if I hadn't got another one. Or maybe it's just my imagination :glare:

and btw Dusty... I've never been topless while rewicking my coil LOL
 

evgeny131

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i think the kayfun 3.1 is the best one.....IMHO...
Upcoming Weekend Set-Ups:
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K-Lite : Poldiac Full Satin 350, K-Mini : Bagua 14500, K3.1-Delta : 69+Brass Kit 350, SQuape : King SS 350
Liquids of Choice in Photo Order:
3vaOfeN.jpg

5Pawns-Bowden's Mate 12mg, Suicide Bunny-Sucker Punch 6mg, The Blueprint-C.R.E.A.M, 5Pawns-Queenside 12mg
 

evgeny131

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I'm loving my Kayfun Lite and wanting another one. Not sure if I should try the Kayfun 3.1 this time. What do you think. Is it worth it to pay the extra $ and go for the Kayfun?


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I like my 3.1 a lot more than the lite...the airflow control makes a HUGE difference, at least for me....
 

Paul.K

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I'm loving my Kayfun Lite and wanting another one. Not sure if I should try the Kayfun 3.1 this time. What do you think. Is it worth it to pay the extra $ and go for the Kayfun?


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I loved the lite so much that I got the 3.1 as well. They both vape very well for me and choose the lite as my work device bc of the size. The 3.1 is nice bc of the air flow control but overall is not too important to me. I'm thinking about adding the mini to the arsenal. :vapor:
 

vapdivrr

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What is a good brand of cotton to use.... Any special kind?
I got "ready to sail" on both my Vela & Latina yesterday so now "THE STALKING BEGINS"
Ski Mask..... Check
Watch..... Check
Binoculars..... Check
Invisibility Cloke..... Check
Pen (incase of sig.)..... Check
LET THE STALKING COMMENCE :laugh:

I use cvs sterile cotton, its in the first aid section not the make-up section.
 

Rule62

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I'm loving my Kayfun Lite and wanting another one. Not sure if I should try the Kayfun 3.1 this time. What do you think. Is it worth it to pay the extra $ and go for the Kayfun?


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I guess it depends on how important the draw is to you. I'm not that particular about it, personally, as long as it's reasonable. At least not enough to warrant the extra money. The wick and coil set up is the same with either.
 

vapdivrr

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ran out of 26g wire, so while waiting did a 27g build on the k-lite. instead of doing this build for my mech, I did one for the provari. did a 10 wrap of 27g on a 16g blunt tip, this came out to 1.0 to 1.1 Ω. although the vapor production is close its the flavor that is definitely lacking. I don't know if its the difference in the gauge, or the added resistance, my guess is the latter or both. my opinion has always been that more resistance or thinner wire equals more heat per individual coil contact at the wick. my reasoning is that with a thicker wire, the thickness of the wire at the wick is spread out more where it touches the wick, this lowers the temp compared to a thinner wire. also in general it is known that more resistance equals more temp. with that said a lower resistance coils uses more power, so you would think that more power equals more heat? maybe the heat of a lower resistance coil is overall hotter but it is spread out along the total length of the coil making it actually cooler per linear area along the wick then a higher resistance coil. anyways I do believe that a slightly cooler temperature (if that's really whats happening) at wick contact makes for a better flavor. sound right?
 

vapdivrr

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I guess it depends on how important the draw is to you. I'm not that particular about it, personally, as long as it's reasonable. At least not enough to warrant the extra money. The wick and coil set up is the same with either.

although I never vaped a 3.1 and don't really know the actual difference in the draw, I love the draw on the lite and feel if I had the 3.1 I would adjust the draw the same as the lite anyways. I ultimately would opt for the smaller size of the lite.
 

Bronze

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ran out of 26g wire, so while waiting did a 27g build on the k-lite. instead of doing this build for my mech, I did one for the provari. did a 10 wrap of 27g on a 16g blunt tip, this came out to 1.0 to 1.1 Ω. although the vapor production is close its the flavor that is definitely lacking. I don't know if its the difference in the gauge, or the added resistance, my guess is the latter or both. my opinion has always been that more resistance or thinner wire equals more heat per individual coil contact at the wick. my reasoning is that with a thicker wire, the thickness of the wire at the wick is spread out more where it touches the wick, this lowers the temp compared to a thinner wire. also in general it is known that more resistance equals more temp. with that said a lower resistance coils uses more power, so you would think that more power equals more heat? maybe the heat of a lower resistance coil is overall hotter but it is spread out along the total length of the coil making it actually cooler per linear area along the wick then a higher resistance coil. anyways I do believe that a slightly cooler temperature (if that's really whats happening) at wick contact makes for a better flavor. sound right?

I would have paid for your theory. Too late now. :)

I kind of fell into the area theory. Lower gauge allows more area meaning more vape and more flavor. But seriously, if I were an outsider, I would place my money on what you say because you have a hell of a lot more experience using those thicker wires than I do.
 

vapdivrr

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I would have paid for your theory. Too late now. :)

I kind of fell into the area theory. Lower gauge allows more area meaning more vape and more flavor. But seriously, if I were an outsider, I would place my money on what you say because you have a hell of a lot more experience using those thicker wires than I do.

it is really just a theory because its kind of hard to prove it. to measure wire temp at the point of contact is probably close to impossible at this time. I want to buy a meat probe and do some tests, this might be possible to slide in a probe to measure the overall temp of different coils, but this wont be in real time, or with a wick. also don't know if one of those probes would measure temps that high. I think gdeal did or posted something about this subject last year and was very interesting.
 
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State O' Flux

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ran out of 26g wire, so while waiting did a 27g build on the k-lite. instead of doing this build for my mech, I did one for the provari. did a 10 wrap of 27g on a 16g blunt tip, this came out to 1.0 to 1.1 Ω. although the vapor production is close its the flavor that is definitely lacking.

I don't know if its the difference in the gauge, or the added resistance, my guess is the latter or both. my opinion has always been that more resistance or thinner wire equals more heat per individual coil contact at the wick. my reasoning is that with a thicker wire, the thickness of the wire at the wick is spread out more where it touches the wick, this lowers the temp compared to a thinner wire.

also in general it is known that more resistance equals more temp. with that said a lower resistance coils uses more power, so you would think that more power equals more heat? maybe the heat of a lower resistance coil is overall hotter but it is spread out along the total length of the coil making it actually cooler per linear area along the wick then a higher resistance coil.

anyways I do believe that a slightly cooler temperature (if that's really whats happening) at wick contact makes for a better flavor. sound right?

Might sound a bit stalker'ish, but lately, I've been reading a lot of your posts vapdivrr. I appreciate the continued experimentation... and the no BS, here it is, this is how it works... good or bad, take it or leave it. YMMV.

As to your questioning. I continuously wonder about the correct "balance" myself. Ignoring the separate but all important wicking issues for now, my thinking, and you can correct me at any point, is that more coil surface area means, potentially, that more juice can be vaporized... but if one can't find balance between surface area, desired heat - not too much or little and rapid heating to coil "operating temperature", then you have a problem.

I don't know if a cooler coil will produce better flavor. The question is, how cool is too cool? I've tried to look at this from a purely logical perspective and be as objective with my work as possible. I've read coil temps with a recording, laser aimed temperature sensing gun... but I can't get consistent, defining readings, other than roughly 1300 to 1600 degrees. I'm looking into buying a gun with different sensor parameters.

Lately, I've been having reasonably good success with larger diameter, but shorter coils... 28ga wrapped on a nearly 3mm shaft at 7 wraps with 1.5Ω average resistance. My logic is, a substantial surface area, modest resistance, not so long as to not easily fit inside a KF or clone chimney with plenty of room for wick to curve gently down to the deck - all to provide a good "balance" of surface area to - time to heat - to peak temperature itself.
 

vapdivrr

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Might sound a bit stalker'ish, but lately, I've been reading a lot of your posts vapdivrr. I appreciate the continued experimentation... and the no BS, here it is, this is how it works... good or bad, take it or leave it. YMMV.

As to your questioning. I continuously wonder about the correct "balance" myself. Ignoring the separate but all important wicking issues for now, my thinking, and you can correct me at any point, is that more coil surface area means, potentially, that more juice can be vaporized... but if one can't find balance between surface area, desired heat - not too much or little and rapid heating to coil "operating temperature", then you have a problem.

I don't know if a cooler coil will produce better flavor. The question is, how cool is too cool? I've tried to look at this from a purely logical perspective and be as objective with my work as possible. I've read coil temps with a recording, laser aimed temperature sensing gun... but I can't get consistent, defining readings, other than roughly 1300 to 1600 degrees. I'm looking into buying a gun with different sensor parameters.

Lately, I've been having reasonably good success with larger diameter, but shorter coils... 28ga wrapped on a nearly 3mm shaft at 7 wraps with 1.5Ω average resistance. My logic is, a substantial surface area, modest resistance, not so long as to not easily fit inside a KF or clone chimney with plenty of room for wick to curve gently down to the deck - all to provide a good "balance" of surface area to - time to heat - to peak temperature itself.

its funny, i was thinking of buying that laser gun to measure temps but just wasn't sure. I do agree with the balance theory. no matter the temps if the balance isn't there you wont get optimal performance. maybe one day there will be a device that provides us with all these proportions. one thing that needs to be included with this balance is airflow, without this there can be no balance. I have experimented with the nano coils in the kayfun, diameters of a 20g needle and as you put it, I didn't like the balance, I felt it was to hot or kind of harsh. I have tried up to a 5/64 drill bit, but at lower resistances then what you did. at lower resistances it seemed like there was insufficient wraps to provide the flavor. I am looking forward to my dna-20 futura mod to experiment on a wider plane. keep us informed on the temp reading if you do decide to try the different sensors.
 
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State O' Flux

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its funny, i was thinking of buying that laser gun to measure temps but just wasn't sure. I do agree with the balance theory. no matter the temps if the balance isn't there you wont get optimal performance. maybe one day there will be a device that provides us with all these proportions. one thing that needs to be included with this balance is airflow, without this there can be no balance. I have experimented with the nano coils in the kayfun, diameters of a 20g needle and as you put it, I didn't like the balance, I felt it was to hot or kind of harsh. I have tried up to a 5/64 drill bit, but at lower resistances then what you did. at lower resistances it seemed like there was insufficient wraps to provide the flavor. I am looking forward to my dna-20 futura mod to experiment on a wider plane. keep us informed on the temp reading if you do decide to try the different sensors.
A Futura eh? Lucky duck. I think, until something else comes along, that's going to be the "standard" of premium VV-VWs. :)

For what I'll spend on a Fluke VT02 infrared, I suppose I could not... and get a few futuras instead. I'm not sure I can write off a futura though. ;-)

I seldom have issues with air flow, in that most anything is too airy for my taste, so if there's an adjustment, I (usually) feel the need to reduce it - to balance between personal preference for good flavor, and adequate vapor production. I've gone so far as to fit restrictors into air ports... but never have I felt the need to increase an air port.

5/64" would be 1/32" under my max size to date... being closer to 7/64". I've not tried anything lower than 1.5Ω though because I didn't want to loose surface area to a lower wrap count. Perhaps I'll try a 5/64" (or around 2mm) and play musical coil count to see what happens.

Drives me crazy sometimes, but it keeps me off the streets at night. :p

Cheers,
SOF
 

Rule62

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One thing I think is important, to optimize any build, is in knowing what a particular juice is supposed to taste like. Juices, especially complex ones, have nuances that will appear at various levels of power. For example, an RY4 may taste very 'tobacco ey', or 'caramel ey', or 'vanilla ey', at various power levels. Depending on the power, one flavor will be dominant over another.
I've been DIYing all of my own juice for nearly 2 1/2 years. I haven't bought a single milliliter of vendor juice in that time. I make probably 15 or 20 recipes repeatedly. I know those juices inside and out; and what they do at various levels of power, and with different devices.
It's why I don't experiment with coil builds much. I don't do dual coils, dual wicks, U wicks, etc. I may briefly fool around with them, from time to time, but not often. I approach coil and wick building with the goal of knowing the flavor profile I'm trying to achieve. To get that particular juice to taste the best it possibly can, knowing beforehand what that taste is. Once I find it; that's THE set up, on that device, for that juice.
 

State O' Flux

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One thing I think is important, to optimize any build, is in knowing what a particular juice is supposed to taste like. Juices, especially complex ones, have nuances that will appear at various levels of power. For example, an RY4 may taste very 'tobacco ey', or 'caramel ey', or 'vanilla ey', at various power levels. Depending on the power, one flavor will be dominant over another.
I've been DIYing all of my own juice for nearly 2 1/2 years. I haven't bought a single milliliter of vendor juice in that time. I make probably 15 or 20 recipes repeatedly. I know those juices inside and out; and what they do at various levels of power, and with different devices.
It's why I don't experiment with coil builds much. I don't do dual coils, dual wicks, U wicks, etc. I may briefly fool around with them, from time to time, but not often. I approach coil and wick building with the goal of knowing the flavor profile I'm trying to achieve. To get that particular juice to taste the best it possibly can, knowing beforehand what that taste is. Once I find it; that's THE set up, on that device, for that juice.
Not being a juice DIY'er at this point (christ... another thing my wife would just love) I buy my 3 favorites from one well known vendor... and hope like hell they don't change their formula. I still buy others to try, but the top 3 remain just for the purposes you describe... I know what they are suppose to, under optimum conditions, taste like.
I try to tune my builds to that known taste... sometimes I get a surprise, pleasant or not and it tends to point me in a direction. That direction might be a slight wick density, air flow, coil wrap count change... or it might be, if the flavor isn't right, trashing the whole idea as... going down the wrong path, again. :)

Perhaps some day I'll make my own juice... but to be honest, I'm more a mechanic than a chemist.
 

Rule62

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Not being a juice DIY'er at this point (christ... another thing my wife would just love) I buy my 3 favorites from one well known vendor... and hope like hell they don't change their formula. I still buy others to try, but the top 3 remain just for the purposes you describe... I know what they are suppose to, under optimum conditions, taste like.
I try to tune my builds to that known taste... sometimes I get a surprise, pleasant or not and it tends to point me in a direction. That direction might be a slight wick density, air flow, coil wrap count change... or it might be, if the flavor isn't right, trashing the whole idea as... going down the wrong path, again. :)

Perhaps some day I'll make my own juice... but to be honest, I'm more a mechanic than a chemist.

That's the cool thing about vaping. So many different ways to approach it. I do the same thing with mixing. I'll have a goal in mind. Sometimes, I'll head down the wrong path, and have to go back. I've certainly made my share of 'dirty socks' and 'burning tires'.
 

vapdivrr

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A Futura eh? Lucky duck. I think, until something else comes along, that's going to be the "standard" of premium VV-VWs. :)

For what I'll spend on a Fluke VT02 infrared, I suppose I could not... and get a few futuras instead. I'm not sure I can write off a futura though. ;-)

I seldom have issues with air flow, in that most anything is too airy for my taste, so if there's an adjustment, I (usually) feel the need to reduce it - to balance between personal preference for good flavor, and adequate vapor production. I've gone so far as to fit restrictors into air ports... but never have I felt the need to increase an air port.

5/64" would be 1/32" under my max size to date... being closer to 7/64". I've not tried anything lower than 1.5Ω though because I didn't want to loose surface area to a lower wrap count. Perhaps I'll try a 5/64" (or around 2mm) and play musical coil count to see what happens.

Drives me crazy sometimes, but it keeps me off the streets at night. :p

Cheers,
SOF

maybe not to much with the kayfun, for I do find the airflow design and size adequate, but with genesis designs I find stock air hole size very inadequate for lower resistance coils. once air flow was increased in those attys so to was the flavor and performance imo. I know there is a lot if's or what's when it comes to coils, and really don't know precisely or in what exact balances make a perfect coil but there is one thing that seems to be consistant imo is whenever I use a thicker gauge wire at lower resistances the flavor seems to be increased. now I definitely haven't vaped every possible combination of gauges, resistances and coil diameters but from the ones that I have vaped, this seems to be true.
 
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