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vapdivrr

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I have a Wizard Apprenticed Evolved coming in soon I hope this DNA20 mod is good, you're making me worry now.

I do like the looks of the evolved mod and should be great. I purchased the futura, which also has the same chip in it but I guess I just got a lemon. they told me the first ones were kind of rushed and they will be replacing it with a new one, hopefully this will perform a lot better. mine just wasn't right from the start and finally died completely out. one thing that was wonky was at hi wattages you would get these low battery warnings even when the battery was fresh. I was using the recommended batterys and they were fairly new. through out the day I would have to remove & re install the battery to stop the warnings. when the battery was re installed the battery indicator read fully charged once again. also the check atomizer warning came on quite a lot, this also required the removal of the battery. I really thought this was going to replace my provaris but for the time being I am totally wrong.
 

bapgood

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I do like the looks of the evolved mod and should be great. I purchased the futura, which also has the same chip in it but I guess I just got a lemon. they told me the first ones were kind of rushed and they will be replacing it with a new one, hopefully this will perform a lot better. mine just wasn't right from the start and finally died completely out. one thing that was wonky was at hi wattages you would get these low battery warnings even when the battery was fresh. I was using the recommended batterys and they were fairly new. through out the day I would have to remove & re install the battery to stop the warnings. when the battery was re installed the battery indicator read fully charged once again. also the check atomizer warning came on quite a lot, this also required the removal of the battery. I really thought this was going to replace my provaris but for the time being I am totally wrong.


IMHO all the problems suggest an issue or issues with the mod and not the DNA. Sounds to me like a battery contact issue or similar.

Just out of curiosity what battery/batteries were you using?

From talking to you earlier it sounds like it was slapped together rather sloppy. I have built a fair share of DNA20 mods and the only issues I have had have been self inflicted or components other than the DNA.

I hope the futura people get you fixed up!
 

maf2k8

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I have a question regarding Micro coils on the KFL.

I have been trying all different types of builds on my KFL and i have found the perfect build ( well i think i have for me anyways )

but my question is about diameter.

Now i know 80% of people just use a random small screw driver or something of the sort. If i am correct a Micro coil is suppose to be 1.5mm in diameter or smaller, am i correct on this?

Well i have been playing with different diameters ( and some are well over 1.5mm so i guess you can't call them Micro coils anymore BUT they do hold the same properties as the coils are pressed together and touching each other and the coil glows from the inside out.

My question is this. What changes will one notice if he builds a Micro Coil on a KFL that has a diameter of say 1.4mm as opposed to say 2.0-2.2mm in diameter?

Other then the obvious ( OHMs will go up ) won't the larger diameter coil hold more juice and in turn you'll never get a dry hit? and say the larger diameter would be good for chain vapors since the diameter is larger then there is more cotton, more cotton means it can hold more liquid and also means more flavor?

The reason i ask this is because i make my Micro coils anywhere from 1.8mm to 2.8mm and i honestly have never had one leak or one dry hit yet.

I am just curious by building a smaller diameter coil, ( A REAL Micro coil ) other then being able to get more wraps in, what are the advantages over a smaller diameter coil?

My builds are usually 7-8 wraps, 28g, coils touching and pressed together and i get anywhere from 1-1.3 ohm.

I have also tried using 26g wire and adding more wraps and a bigger diameter but the vape is a little to warm for my liking.

BTW depending on the build, My KFLs sit onto my Nemesis or my Provari. I use cotton balls for all my builds.

Just curious what others think or what diameter other people build there coils at.
 

Bronze

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maf, I use diameter primarily for resistance control. If I want less, I make a tighter coil (and visa versa). Of course, the wire gauge has as much to do with resistance control than anything but they can be used in conjunction. For example, if I want to go subohm, I go from 30ga to 28 ga Kanthal, decrease the inside diameter of the coil from 2.0mm to 1.5mm and reduced the wraps from 10 to 8. That puts me about 0.9ohms which cuts my resistance in half or a little more. Then there is the whole thing about vape quality and area of wire. Wont get into that here.
 
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JuRuKi

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BigCypress

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Edson Arantes

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I am using a drill bit around 1.5 - 1.8mm and get 1.3 Ohms with 9 wraps. I mainly vape 80% VG and have to constantly dry pulls to get the wicks saturated. I may try a larger diameter and see if that helps. What % of VG are you running??

I have a question regarding Micro coils on the KFL.

I have been trying all different types of builds on my KFL and i have found the perfect build ( well i think i have for me anyways )

but my question is about diameter.

Now i know 80% of people just use a random small screw driver or something of the sort. If i am correct a Micro coil is suppose to be 1.5mm in diameter or smaller, am i correct on this?

Well i have been playing with different diameters ( and some are well over 1.5mm so i guess you can't call them Micro coils anymore BUT they do hold the same properties as the coils are pressed together and touching each other and the coil glows from the inside out.

My question is this. What changes will one notice if he builds a Micro Coil on a KFL that has a diameter of say 1.4mm as opposed to say 2.0-2.2mm in diameter?

Other then the obvious ( OHMs will go up ) won't the larger diameter coil hold more juice and in turn you'll never get a dry hit? and say the larger diameter would be good for chain vapors since the diameter is larger then there is more cotton, more cotton means it can hold more liquid and also means more flavor?

The reason i ask this is because i make my Micro coils anywhere from 1.8mm to 2.8mm and i honestly have never had one leak or one dry hit yet.

I am just curious by building a smaller diameter coil, ( A REAL Micro coil ) other then being able to get more wraps in, what are the advantages over a smaller diameter coil?

My builds are usually 7-8 wraps, 28g, coils touching and pressed together and i get anywhere from 1-1.3 ohm.

I have also tried using 26g wire and adding more wraps and a bigger diameter but the vape is a little to warm for my liking.

BTW depending on the build, My KFLs sit onto my Nemesis or my Provari. I use cotton balls for all my builds.

Just curious what others think or what diameter other people build there coils at.
 

Ben C.

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I am using a drill bit around 1.5 - 1.8mm and get 1.3 Ohms with 9 wraps. I mainly vape 80% VG and have to constantly dry pulls to get the wicks saturated. I may try a larger diameter and see if that helps. What % of VG are you running??
To jump in, I've been using a 5/64" bit (2mm) with 30g kanthal and 10 wraps for 2.2 ohm coils. No wicking issues with 80% VG liquids with cotton wicks (e.g. Mr. Good Vape Moon Sugar, which is 80% VG). Hell, I can still flood the bastads occasionally :) .

microcoil2.jpg
 
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nelsonm64

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I am using a drill bit around 1.5 - 1.8mm and get 1.3 Ohms with 9 wraps. I mainly vape 80% VG and have to constantly dry pulls to get the wicks saturated. I may try a larger diameter and see if that helps. What % of VG are you running??

i suggest you try less cotton, less is more ;) you should feel very little resistance when threading it through the coil.
 

bapgood

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Someone please help!
I stripped my fill screw! Anyone know of any good ways to remove the screw? Its badly stripped

A little bit of heat can help.

Also you can go to Harbor Freight and pick up a set of cheap left hand drill bits, if the threads aren't stuck the drilling (in reverse) with the LH drill bits usually spins the screw out quite easy.
 

turbocad6

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totally agree. since doing this I have had zero dry hits, not that I really had any before but on occasion with higher wattage builds the flavor was lacking, now the vape seems a little juicier imo. one thing that happened, which doesn't really bother me because I rarely keep in my wicks much more then 4 days but with my last build I had kept my wicks in for like a week, well I guess the hemp kind of got whimpy and maybe couldn't hold as much liquid as when new, but it started gurgling. I rewicked and all was good again


yeah I find the hemp is usually good for 4-5 days at least, sometimes up to a week, funny thing is my mini hasn't been rewicked in several weeks and it's still going strong but I don't use that one primarily anyway so sometimes I can go 3 weeks or more.

when I say dry hits I'm not talking about super dry burn up your wick type dry, that has been solved long ago with less wick density. to me anything less than a fully saturated wick doesn't give you full flavor. it does still vape and some may even think it's vaping fine, but I'm used to either a reo or a dripper and I want a fully saturated wick and coil, for me a dry hit is anything less than fully saturated. I'm sure for some they may not even consider this a dry hit and for some they may be able to vape and vape, thinking it's fine with a less than fully saturated wick and coil, I'm not necessarily talking about dry enough to burn up the wick, I guess I shouldn't say dry hits I should say drier hits as opposed to a fully saturated nice wet vape, anything less is not peak flavor in my book and is dry :)



IMHO all the problems suggest an issue or issues with the mod and not the DNA. Sounds to me like a battery contact issue or similar.

Just out of curiosity what battery/batteries were you using?

From talking to you earlier it sounds like it was slapped together rather sloppy. I have built a fair share of DNA20 mods and the only issues I have had have been self inflicted or components other than the DNA.

I hope the futura people get you fixed up!

yeah, def sounds like a threading or contact issue. the dna can draw up to 7 amps and is very sensitive to a less than perfect connection, it senses voltage drop and voltage sag... when a mech has a less than perfect connection you may not notice as readily, it will still vape but may give a little less power to the coil ultimately, but the dna senses the big voltage drops and it wreaks havoc with it's logic. this isn't really a flaw of the dna it's a flaw in the circuit. the nivel chip is similar, many guys have complained about there nivel giving them e3 and e5 fault codes blaming the mod when in reality it's just the chip sensing what it is designed to sense, both of these chips with good complete circuits perform awesomely... with a bad connection anywhere it will not perform well. my semovar can sense when the battey cap is less than fully snug and give an error code, tightening all the connections well makes it go away, some look at this as a flaw but it's not really, it's just that the chip is sensitive enough to see things in the circuit that you may not see. if the battery shows as dead right after a draw it's because the voltage dipped down below a certain threshold momentarily, the dna doesn't want to see that, it wants to see a rock solid connection to the battery and it wants to see a battery that doesn't sag lower than it should, the chip has no way of knowing if the problem is the battery itself or the circuit, feed the dna well and it will perform well, fed it with a less than rock solid circuit and it will fault and bug out occasionally

as far as coil diameter, whatever works for you works for you, but for me I run 1.5 and 1.4mm diameter micros all the time and find they give me the best taste... it's not that a larger coil doesn't also vape well but the smaller coils give peak flavor. some theorize in the microcoil thread that it's a matter of wicking, while it may seem that a larger diameter wick will hold more juice the theory is that only the part of the wick touching the coil itself is what dries and a drying wick will wick fluid from the adjacent more saturated part, a large diameter wick will only dry the outside perimeter of this wick leaving a wet core, this wet core actually prevents the wick from wicking as well where it is actually needed which is on it's perimeter contacting the coil. a 1.5 micro will dry all the way to the core, allowing better overall wicking... not looking to o too deep into theories here but suffice it to say that a 2.0mm coil does not wick better than a 1.5mm coil in my experience but a 1.5mm coil can't be wicked too dense or it will suck, a larger coil can deal with a bit higher wick density but over dense becomes critical at the smaller diameters... I'd never do a coil bigger than 1.5mm now personally, no benefit only drawbacks to me
 

kas122461

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To jump in, I've been using a 5/64" bit (2mm) with 30g kanthal and 10 wraps for 2.2 ohm coils. No wicking issues with 80% VG liquids with cotton wicks (e.g. Mr. Good Vape Moon Sugar, which is 80% VG). Hell, I can still flood the bastads occasionally :) .

microcoil2.jpg


When you first posted this image, like 200 pages back? I just liked the way it looked, so once I got mine, I build my coils just like yours. I have never had a reason to change it, wicks good, tastes good, don't fix what is not broken.
 
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