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vapdivrr

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there's this topcap: http://www.tampavapor.com/Kayfun-Easy-Fill-Top-Cap-RBLD1067

not for working on the deck, but EZ-fill without a tool or messing with the top-fill method.

one thing I love about the kayfun are all the aftermarket modifications by Science of vaping, Wolvesix, Tarsius, Orion, Hysteric Vape, etc. maybe someone will machine something like you're talking about...the SOV V2 is half-way there with the threaded chimney/topcap combo. I'm if imagining it correctly, he would just need to reverse thread that section and maybe extend it all the way down to the deck (replacing the bottom chimney piece), so you'd just need to twist off the tank and everything wouldnt come apart.
I tried that link but nothing showed, if its the same pics as in the next post below, I have seen them in the fogger thread. that is indeed awesome. I have to check out what your saying about the sov v2, it sounds cool. like I said the aqua tanks work in a way that one can do whatever they want to the wick and coil, without messing with the juice because the chimney stays attached to the top tank section and top cap by an oring on the chimney spout, its really convenient when testing different stuff, saves a ton of time. thanks
 

kas122461

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isn't it weird about avatars, the ones that have famous people as them. when they post or reply to posts, you really imagine them as that person no matter how much you know they are not.

I just always liked bones, and when I started this hobby, and saw my current avatar, it was just right, but I am not a doctor damn it! I am a Vaper!

KAS
 

dwcraig1

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Let me take a stab at this vacuum thing so maybe folks don't get so confused. Pressure differential is a better word for it. The pressure on the inside and the pressure on the outside are the same (atmospheric pressure) until something comes along and causes it to be not the same like sucking on it. When you take a drag the preasure drops on the inside causing some of the liquid the move to the inside to equalize the two pressures.
Sudden temperature or altitude changes will also make it change.
 

vapdivrr

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Ya.. couple of times with a couple of setups..


However, think Im narrowing it down, thanks to Diver. I was told 'less is more' w/cotton, so when I built my first and it had a 'cotton' taste, I reduced it. Too much it seems. I use NETs and it seems that with NETs you need a little more cotton than 'normal' in order for it not to gunk up quickly, stop wicking, and burn the cotton. I was using less than a 1/4 of an unrolled ball 'width', then right at around a 1/4, and now between a 1/4 and a 1/3 and also leaving the tails a little longer than I was before. This results in a 'gurgle' until about a 1/4 tank is gone, then it smooths out and, so far, lasts the rest of the tank. I dont might the gurgle even though I have to open the air all the way and turn up the volts (I'm a cooler, tighter draw, vaper) as it only for a bit (I chain vape), and also 'cause I am usually rushing around at the same time and need the extra nic hit :)


@ Diver - Thanks man! You're awesome! 2 tanks so far and no burning yet :)

thanks. a few days ago I ran like 6 different wicks with really one thing in mind, to try to achieve a dry hit. this was done by using not enough cotton, and using to much. in those specific tests(with my particular cotton, juice, and specific coil configurations) the only way I could achieve a dry hit was by using not enough cotton in the coil. my next dry hit test will be to focus on wick placement along with varying amounts of cotton. like placing a fat wick kind of in the juice channels, also making a regular sized wick barely down to the ledge, or a just enough cotton build along the ledge but to far from the juice channels. one way or another I would like to pin point exactly why a dry hit occurs. I also want to try to obtain dry hits from causing faulty orings in the device, or loosen up parts slightly just to see exactly how much of a dry hit one would get by loosing a slight amount of vacuum. I just see so many different fixes or answers to the question "why am I getting dry hits in my kayfun" that maybe I could narrow them down just a little more.
 

Midniteoyl

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thanks. a few days ago I ran like 6 different wicks with really one thing in mind, to try to achieve a dry hit. this was done by using not enough cotton, and using to much. in those specific tests(with my particular cotton, juice, and specific coil configurations) the only way I could achieve a dry hit was by using not enough cotton in the coil. my next dry hit test will be to focus on wick placement along with varying amounts of cotton. like placing a fat wick kind of in the juice channels, also making a regular sized wick barely down to the ledge, or a just enough cotton build along the ledge but to far from the juice channels. one way or another I would like to pin point exactly why a dry hit occurs. I also want to try to obtain dry hits from causing faulty orings in the device, or loosen up parts slightly just to see exactly how much of a dry hit one would get by loosing a slight amount of vacuum. I just see so many different fixes or answers to the question "why am I getting dry hits in my kayfun" that maybe I could narrow them down just a little more.

The experiment you did was the help I needed.. It kinda confirmed what I had held in my mind about how cotton should work, but I kept getting instructions that said otherwise.
 

kas122461

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'Dammit Jim! I'm a Doctor, not an escalator!' - My favorite. :)

He did so many quotes like that one, I don't know how many. I always liked Spock also, but he is used a lot more then bones, if I had the skills, I would photo shop a APV in his hand, but it looks close enough.
 

vapdivrr

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I also tend to believe that the term, "make sure your wick tails stay clear of the juice channels" is over stated. I think for the most part people are vaping these kayfuns between 8 to 12 watts(could be higher these days though) at these power levels you kind of could get away with a really loose, or looser kind of wick compared to someone vaping at 20 watts. imo, the higher your wattage, the denser your wick needs to be without it being to dense. that's why I hear a lot, I mean a lot of people saying their kayfuns work awesome but when I increase my power, I get dry hits. that has to be either the wick is not dense enough to keep up with the extra heat or maybe the wicks are to far away from the juice channels. I know my wicks are definitely on the thicker and denser side, I also run them sort of along the ledge with an angled coil. when I rip out my builds, I always make sure as to not disturb them in any way so I can see them as they really are. although when I initially saturate them in a new build and slightly push them away from the channels, I know as they really expand, they move almost on top of these channels, this I can see when I rebuild. I think there is a slight difference though in covering these channels, if a wick tail end is on top of these channels, and it expands outward somewhat then maybe it could block off this channel resulting in a dry hit, but if the wick is placed across this channel(with an angled wick tail) and then slightly covers it from expansion, then because of the grain of the cotton not being able to penetrate the channel, its an ok thing. if you wick tail is placed in such a mannor (to be as close as possible to the channel, but not blocking it off) it has to be more efficient because its right there getting this juice and receiving it faster, thus utilizing the intake juice times. I also guess its how you draw on the device as well, maybe if your a slow, steady, strong sucker-in- er, your wick could be placed farther away. if your a fast, shorter, not so strong sucker- in- er (lol) then your wick tails would benefit by being closer to the channels. to make a long story even longer, I think that if done right, it is better to be actually closer to the channels then farther away.
 

vapdivrr

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I just always liked bones, and when I started this hobby, and saw my current avatar, it was just right, but I am not a doctor damn it! I am a Vaper!

KAS

I am a BIG trek fan, love anything star trek and love the avatar. when I see your posts, I really think im talking to bones, its great!
 

vapdivrr

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Let me take a stab at this vacuum thing so maybe folks don't get so confused. Pressure differential is a better word for it. The pressure on the inside and the pressure on the outside are the same (atmospheric pressure) until something comes along and causes it to be not the same like sucking on it. When you take a drag the preasure drops on the inside causing some of the liquid the move to the inside to equalize the two pressures.
Sudden temperature or altitude changes will also make it change.
I think here, in the last few posts, the question is, will enlarging the channels cause more juice to come in? I think it will, but it depends on how you draw.
 

Midniteoyl

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He did so many quotes like that one, I don't know how many. I always liked Spock also, but he is used a lot more then bones, if I had the skills, I would photo shop a APV in his hand, but it looks close enough.

Looks like my kfl with nano on a VAMO (tank is red when filled with juice ;))

WP_20140606_001.jpg
 

Midniteoyl

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I also tend to believe that the term, "make sure your wick tails stay clear of the juice channels" is over stated. I think for the most part people are vaping these kayfuns between 8 to 12 watts(could be higher these days though) at these power levels you kind of could get away with a really loose, or looser kind of wick compared to someone vaping at 20 watts. imo, the higher your wattage, the denser your wick needs to be without it being to dense. that's why I hear a lot, I mean a lot of people saying their kayfuns work awesome but when I increase my power, I get dry hits. that has to be either the wick is not dense enough to keep up with the extra heat or maybe the wicks are to far away from the juice channels. I know my wicks are definitely on the thicker and denser side, I also run them sort of along the ledge with an angled coil. when I rip out my builds, I always make sure as to not disturb them in any way so I can see them as they really are. although when I initially saturate them in a new build and slightly push them away from the channels, I know as they really expand, they move almost on top of these channels, this I can see when I rebuild. I think there is a slight difference though in covering these channels, if a wick tail end is on top of these channels, and it expands outward somewhat then maybe it could block off this channel resulting in a dry hit, but if the wick is placed across this channel(with an angled wick tail) and then slightly covers it from expansion, then because of the grain of the cotton not being able to penetrate the channel, its an ok thing. if you wick tail is placed in such a mannor (to be as close as possible to the channel, but not blocking it off) it has to be more efficient because its right there getting this juice and receiving it faster, thus utilizing the intake juice times. I also guess its how you draw on the device as well, maybe if your a slow, steady, strong sucker-in- er, your wick could be placed farther away. if your a fast, shorter, not so strong sucker- in- er (lol) then your wick tails would benefit by being closer to the channels. to make a long story even longer, I think that if done right, it is better to be actually closer to the channels then farther away.

I also started putting my cotton 'ends' right on the channels w/o actually pushing them it. Just sit them on top loosely. I'm trying everything to get these things to wick correctly :)
 

Knifemaker

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I have been running the HCigar 3.1 for a couple of months now and have yet to get a dry hit. Not one! Tried quite a different builds on it, and every thing I try seems to just work. And work well. I just can't figure all the problems people are having.

I picked up a EHPro Light + for my Wife last month, and it is easier to flood right after filling. As well as it likes to flood if you do a draw without firing it. Something that Never Bothers the HCigar 3.1 And the draw is a LOT tighter. Too tight for my taste. But she likes it. It is a good looking unit though!

KnifeMaker
 

Aal_

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thanks. a few days ago I ran like 6 different wicks with really one thing in mind, to try to achieve a dry hit. this was done by using not enough cotton, and using to much. in those specific tests(with my particular cotton, juice, and specific coil configurations) the only way I could achieve a dry hit was by using not enough cotton in the coil. my next dry hit test will be to focus on wick placement along with varying amounts of cotton. like placing a fat wick kind of in the juice channels, also making a regular sized wick barely down to the ledge, or a just enough cotton build along the ledge but to far from the juice channels. one way or another I would like to pin point exactly why a dry hit occurs. I also want to try to obtain dry hits from causing faulty orings in the device, or loosen up parts slightly just to see exactly how much of a dry hit one would get by loosing a slight amount of vacuum. I just see so many different fixes or answers to the question "why am I getting dry hits in my kayfun" that maybe I could narrow them down just a little more.

You know what could help you in your experiments? Try getting one of those transparent plastic kits that show you whats hapening inside the chimney. It helped me a lot in seeing how the juice is filling up the chimney to know how to place my wicks.
 
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