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WharfRat1976

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10417676_822214387802787_8810546160108377170_n.jpg

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About # 2 picture, I had it wicked and wet and ready to go when I realized I forgot to "squeeze" it.
I almost just was going to just go with it, good thing I went back and did it as this one was in need of it.
10362619_822214934469399_9064907387091493945_n.jpg

The rayon in my hand is flat and the coil is 2 mm.
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That's about 10 mm sticking up.
I still need to vape it awhile but so far it's good.
Oh, this is a clone, the FT one that comes with a nano kit, note that the channels had some work done to them.
0.9Ω with 28 gauge nichrome, 8 1/2 wraps on 2 mm shaft @ 20 watts.
update... it didn't work out... dry after primer vaped off.. rewicking with rayon again...works good in every thing else I have

The perfect build and wick and the thing fails---What a POS...I think the deck height and overall tank makes this device worthless...
 

Rossum

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I fail to understand why people do that. I always wet my wick and get it where I want it before I screw the chimney on. I cut my wicks so they just touch the bottom and tack 'em to the sides of the base with a bit of e-liquid, then make sure the whole wick and coil assembly are wetted. I never have issues with such builds not wicking immediately.
 

MaxUT

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I always wet my wick and get it where I want it before I screw the chimney on. I cut my wicks so they just touch the bottom and tack 'em to the sides of the base with a bit of e-liquid, then make sure the whole wick and coil assembly are wetted.

That's what I do; it seems logical to position the wicks while you can see and control the placement. I saturate the wicks with juice and find that I don't have to take primer puffs when starting it up (when I did, the thing gurgled from too much juice).
 

vapdivrr

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The wicks have to be "tucked in" to some degree to clear the chimney threads otherwise, of course, the wicks will twist with the chimney screw down. I tuck them ever so gently, plumply, and try not to distort them in any way. I tuck them far enough to clear the threads for the chimney to come down as perfectly as possible. I do everything under magnification, so I can see what I am doing. My wicking became 100% better using magnification. Just a suggestion.
I couldn't do any builds without my trusty magnification visor. Truly the best tool I own for vape builds.
 

mgmrick

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The perfect build and wick and the thing fails---What a POS...I think the deck height and overall tank makes this device worthless...

I for one don't agree with that statement at all. The kayfun is the only device I use now except for my new reo. I don't understand the reo hype. I am trying to like it but keep grabbing the kayfun setups. I just rewicked 4 kayfuns with cotton no issues with any of them. And they are all clones from different companies... I do not favor one over the other. They all work the same... (Great)
 

AMDTrucking

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And your point is? After finding nirvana with Kayfuns, the next step is to buy junk attys, grind them with a dremel and wick them improperly? I hope not.

Tried a Confun?
Confun LE#2 - Tankerweiterung für Kayfun Lite / Lite Plus - InTaste
Confun Clear - InTaste

I guess you are right. I didn't know those things even existed. My point is: I want, the one I already have to work right instead of spending 48,90 EUR and throwing this one away. That's my point. I guess I'm cheap.
 

AMDTrucking

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One last comment: these post screws suck! They're not flat on the underside and the wire slides out from underneath as the screw is tightened. I found some M1.6 SS screws at McMaster-Carr to try, and think I'll also look for some tiny washers for just-in-case.

This might help:
18-8 Stainless Steel Machine Screw, Plain Finish, Cheese Head, Slotted Drive, Meets DIN 84, 4mm Length, Fully Threaded, M1.6-0.35 Metric Coarse Threads (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
10 excellent quality M1.6 - 0.35 4.0mm long Stainless Steel Kayfun screws for $4.35. I replaced all my clones with these.
 

Nomoreash

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You guys running 15-20 watts does that help with the wicking. My problem is not wicking fast enough and I run 9-10 watts, could that be the problem?

If it's not wicking fast enough at 9-10 watts going higher will only be worse, higher wattage needs faster juice flow to the coil. Without seeing your build it's hard to say but I would start there.

I do a 28ga, 8 wrap macro coil on a 5/64" bit with cotton just thick enough slide through the coil with little resistance, wet and cut the legs just long enough to lay on the deck against the wall in front of the channels then screw the chimney on. Comes out to 1.1-1.2 ohms and works great for me, I'm usually between 12-14 watts.
 

vapdivrr

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Has anyone made a coil building jig? I want to make one that represents the posts and air hole, with short pins at the terminal screw locations so that I can trim the legs and make the initial bend for wrapping around the screws.
I have something like that,. It's on a 2x4. I punched 2 holes in it, i then made a lenght of wire and inserted the wire into the 2 holes. This wire loop holds the coil. Perpendicular to that I have 2 pins in which I attach the coil leads to. I coil around those pins to get the shape. I can pre shape the coil so it just snaps around kayfun screws. I made this last year and have used it but it's more time consuming then just doing it regularly.
 

MaxUT

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Thanks! Think I will order the screws at McMaster-Carr first since I'm ordering silicone O-rings from there, and I prefer the Phillips head screws. If those don't do the trick then I'll order the ones you suggest.
 

nasca

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Does anyone have experience with the SOV glass kits, and know which clones they will work with? V2 Glass Kit – Science Of Vaping I have seen reports that the NANO kit does not work with the EHPRO KFL+V2.

I have the SOV V2. it's badass. I have an original kayfun, so I cant comment on the ehpro. I recommend the silicone o-rings over the stock for a little better fit, but doesnt matter much since the kit works so well already.
 
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