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TheKiwi

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Found this. Bored out to 1/8.
aqezenym.jpg



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regal55

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Regal, just a guess but if you're getting flavor but no visible vapor, maybe it's just cooking off the flavoring components of the juice but not vaporizing much of the PG and VG. And "no heat in the lungs"... sounds like it's running too cool. Is it gurgling?


No gurgling, very odd. I tore it down to try the ken gushi pads. they are convenient. But I'll probably find a way to screw it up and then these KLF's go to the classifieds and I buy a couple drippers.
 

regal55

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Another build. The cotton pads made things easier, I also go the flat botton screws which helped. The resistance came in at 2 ohms which may explain why I'm light on vapor? But no burnt flavor yet. My pads are from amazon and not Ken Gushi, they couldn't be split in half. Time will tell but the flavor as of now is fantastic.
 

bsoplinger

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Found this. Bored out to 1/8.
That pic really shows the limitations of drilling out the side airhole. The limiter on airflow in the Kayfun design is the center post and the hole in the side that connects to the side airhole. Both are narrower than your newly bored side airhole and will still limit the airflow.

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TheKiwi

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That pic really shows the limitations of drilling out the side airhole. The limiter on airflow in the Kayfun design is the center post and the hole in the side that connects to the side airhole. Both are narrower than your newly bored side airhole and will still limit the airflow.

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Oh yeah I got that off google. That was what I was saying previously. I doubt drilling it any bigger than 5/64 would do any good.


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baldrick999

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This 28.5mm ToBeCo Big Fun story is coming to the end.
I enlarged those channels even more. Only this time I put a 4mm thick nut M12 - 0.75mm to where the chimney goes and drilled the channels with 2.0 mm drill bit, then smoothed the ages with the Dremel.
Looks like it's a winner this time because I see huge air bubbles coming up after each draw I take and that is a good sign :)
The question is: Will it start leaking later on? So far it hasn't, but you never know...

2uwId9o.jpg

You shouldn't have a leaking problem when the tank is full. When you take a draw, the juice is sucked up those channels from the outer section causing the wells to fill with juice. The level of juice in the outer section will drop at the same time. The air bubble above the juice will thus be bigger but at a lower pressure. When your draw finishes and the mouthpiece is released, the [low pressure] air bubble will suck that juice from the wells back into the outer tank.

Try fitting a clear M-tank and chimney, than watch what happens in a mirror. It's quite interesting and demonstrates the engineering genius of SvoeMesto's design.

The problem will occur when the tank is emptier, typically a third full or less. As the device is raised and the draw is taken, one channel may be in the air bubble whilst the other is in liquid. If the partial vacuum is not maintained in the outer (juice) chamber then the juice wells won't get sucked back after the draw. After enough draws, the wells overfill and spill down the airflow input hole leading to leakage.

I'd be interested if you can keep us all posted as to how the device behaves over time with the larger channels.
 

regal55

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The pads are the answer for me, this is the most solid build I've had to date. I can hear the wick sucking up the juice which is a first. Only small issue is vapor production is slightly down from my aertanks but the flavor is much better. I imagine getting more vapor is a matter of fiddling with the air screw?

BTW here are the pads I got. I have amazon prime arrived in 2 days:
Amazon.com: Daisan Being Cotton Special 222 Sheets: Health & Personal Care
 
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AMDTrucking

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You shouldn't have a leaking problem when the tank is full. When you take a draw, the juice is sucked up those channels from the outer section causing the wells to fill with juice. The level of juice in the outer section will drop at the same time. The air bubble above the juice will thus be bigger but at a lower pressure. When your draw finishes and the mouthpiece is released, the [low pressure] air bubble will suck that juice from the wells back into the outer tank.

Try fitting a clear M-tank and chimney, than watch what happens in a mirror. It's quite interesting and demonstrates the engineering genius of SvoeMesto's design.

The problem will occur when the tank is emptier, typically a third full or less. As the device is raised and the draw is taken, one channel may be in the air bubble whilst the other is in liquid. If the partial vacuum is not maintained in the outer (juice) chamber then the juice wells won't get sucked back after the draw. After enough draws, the wells overfill and spill down the airflow input hole leading to leakage.

I'd be interested if you can keep us all posted as to how the device behaves over time with the larger channels.

Thank you for your very informative and comprehensive explanation. Based on your advice, I really did take a clear FastTech SKU:1570900 Kayfun 3.1 and watched what appends in the mirror. You are absolutely correct on how it works. Unless, of course you are a truck driver like me and going up and down at different altitudes (from 0.0 to 4600 feet above sea level) all day. Then you are screwed. Every tank leaks in my situation. I'm even thinking of installing access pressure purge valves in my tanks. Either manual purge valve or spring loaded ball one way valve. Like Kayfun 3.1 ES Fill Valve only backwards. I would appreciate you thoughts on that.

It has been over 24 hours since I enlarged my 28.5mm Kayfun juice flaw channels.
I've consumed about 75% of it's first refill and, so far did not run into any problems yet. Will keep you posted.

Happy Independence Day!!!

Mike.
 
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Rossum

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Unless, of course you are a truck driver like me and going up and down at different altitudes (from 0.0 to 4600 feet above sea level) all day. Then you are screwed. Every tank leaks in my situation.
If you were to keep it upside down during those altitude changes, that would allow it to equalize pressures w/o leaking.

But honestly, if I were doing those kinds of altitude changes all the time, I'd probably switch exclusively to bottom-feeders, which are relatively immune to pressure changes.
 

Aal_

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You shouldn't have a leaking problem when the tank is full. When you take a draw, the juice is sucked up those channels from the outer section causing the wells to fill with juice. The level of juice in the outer section will drop at the same time. The air bubble above the juice will thus be bigger but at a lower pressure. When your draw finishes and the mouthpiece is released, the [low pressure] air bubble will suck that juice from the wells back into the outer tank.

Try fitting a clear M-tank and chimney, than watch what happens in a mirror. It's quite interesting and demonstrates the engineering genius of SvoeMesto's design.

The problem will occur when the tank is emptier, typically a third full or less. As the device is raised and the draw is taken, one channel may be in the air bubble whilst the other is in liquid. If the partial vacuum is not maintained in the outer (juice) chamber then the juice wells won't get sucked back after the draw. After enough draws, the wells overfill and spill down the airflow input hole leading to leakage.

I'd be interested if you can keep us all posted as to how the device behaves over time with the larger channels.
When we see bubbles going up the outer tank, doesn't that introduce new air particles and restore the low pressure to previous pressure levels and that's why the liquid stays in the channels?

I'm not sure if you said the same thing but you didn't mention the air bubbles.

And that is why when u have a flood in the tank the flood remains there if you keep on vaping since pressure is always restored in the same way.
 

AMDTrucking

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When we see bubbles going up the outer tank, doesn't that introduce new air particles and restore the low pressure to previous pressure levels and that's why the liquid stays in the channels?

I'm not sure if you said the same thing but you didn't mention the air bubbles.

And that is why when u have a flood in the tank the flood remains there if you keep on vaping since pressure is always restored in the same way.

I'm sure you know what are you talking about. But I don't. :oops:
 

AMDTrucking

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If you were to keep it upside down during those altitude changes, that would allow it to equalize pressures w/o leaking.

But honestly, if I were doing those kinds of altitude changes all the time, I'd probably switch exclusively to bottom-feeders, which are relatively immune to pressure changes.

And switch from internal combustion engine to steam engine while I'm at it.
 

bsoplinger

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And switch from internal combustion engine to steam engine while I'm at it.
Lol. I don't think he was suggesting going back to a clearomizer but instead the Genesis style atomizer. They shouldn't be affected by altitude changes. Although they typically are affected by orientation changes. Read that as "they leak if you tilt too much or lay them down." ;)

Like a dripper.

Or he could have been suggesting true bottom feeders, like the Phidias or Reo.

Not sure which.

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Midniteoyl

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Lol. I don't think he was suggesting going back to a clearomizer but instead the Genesis style atomizer. They shouldn't be affected by altitude changes. Although they typically are affected by orientation changes. Read that as "they leak if you tilt too much or lay them down." ;)

Like a dripper.

Or he could have been suggesting true bottom feeders, like the Phidias or Reo.

Not sure which.

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I thought the REO..
 

Midniteoyl

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So anyways.. decided to try another build. This time back to angled, but, keeping the coils apart, not tight. I wanted to see if this 'spread out' the heat on the wick and reduced the tendency to burn. Also figured that since I'm using NETs, the extra space would allow extra time before the gunk clogged things up and caused burning. The coil came out alright, still heats from the center out. The pic looks like there might be a slight hot spot, but I didnt play with the coil to fix it. I left it the way it came off the mandrel.


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WP_20140704_026.jpg

WP_20140704_030.jpg
 

ricks

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My coils look like that but I find I get more flavor with the coils very close to the air hole. I also think that with the coils spaced apart, It works better.
So anyways.. decided to try another build. This time back to angled, but, keeping the coils apart, not tight. I wanted to see if this 'spread out' the heat on the wick and reduced the tendency to burn. Also figured that since I'm using NETs, the extra space would allow extra time before the gunk clogged things up and caused burning. The coil came out alright, still heats from the center out. The pic looks like there might be a slight hot spot, but I didnt play with the coil to fix it. I left it the way it came off the mandrel.


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AMDTrucking

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Lol. I don't think he was suggesting going back to a clearomizer but instead the Genesis style atomizer. They shouldn't be affected by altitude changes. Although they typically are affected by orientation changes. Read that as "they leak if you tilt too much or lay them down." ;)

Like a dripper.

Or he could have been suggesting true bottom feeders, like the Phidias or Reo.

Not sure which.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

I know. I have about 20 Genesis Atomizers built with SS Mash, SS Rope and combination of both utilizing NR-R-NR method and Flat Ribbon A1 Kanthal.
Let me clarify something here: I'm a truck driver, but not newbie vaper.

In fact here is a snap shot of my truck dash board. Taken with an iPhone couple of months ago.

wbY72kR.jpg
 
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