A Reo Grand is for sure is a great drip and drive device.....
A Genny? Gosh, no!Lol. I don't think he was suggesting going back to a clearomizer but instead the Genesis style atomizer.
Now you're talking! There are others as well. vaping one is like driving a manual transmission. It gives you total control over how much juice gets to your wick and when.Or he could have been suggesting true bottom feeders, like the Phidias or Reo.
I know. I have about 20 Genesis Atomizers built with SS Mash, SS Rope and combination of both utilizing NR-R-NR method and Flat Ribbon A1 Kanthal.
Let me clarify something here: I'm a truck driver, but not newbie vaper.
In fact here is a snap shot of my truck dash board. Taken with an iPhone couple of months ago.
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A Genny? Gosh, no!
Now you're talking! There are others as well. Vaping one is like driving a manual transmission. It gives you total control over how much juice gets to your wick and when.
Thank you for your very informative and comprehensive explanation. Based on your advice, I really did take a clear FastTech SKU:1570900 Kayfun 3.1 and watched what appends in the mirror. You are absolutely correct on how it works. Unless, of course you are a truck driver like me and going up and down at different altitudes (from 0.0 to 4600 feet above sea level) all day. Then you are screwed. Every tank leaks in my situation. I'm even thinking of installing access pressure purge valves in my tanks. Either manual purge valve or spring loaded ball one way valve. Like Kayfun 3.1 ES Fill Valve only backwards. I would appreciate you thoughts on that.
It has been over 24 hours since I enlarged my 28.5mm Kayfun juice flaw channels.
I've consumed about 75% of it's first refill and, so far did not run into any problems yet. Will keep you posted.
Happy Independence Day!!!
Mike.
Got ya on the blockage. On the first kayfun I used a 5/64, which worked really good. Just break down the coil first, then remove the 510 post and positive block. Also if you have an adjustable airflow screw, remove that. Then just drill main airhole till you reach 510 channel. This is what I did on my authentic. My next kayfun I did, I went to 3/32 which didn't seem any difference. Start with 5/64, that should do ya. I don't own a clone so I'm not sure if all things will be the same but the kayfun is definitely better with this modification. If you have a press then I'm sure you have some really good bits because that's what you need. Also give it a good wash, then reassemble.To answer your question, I spun the pin until I noticed a slight increase of airflow through the device, but its barely noticable. I can't imagine there being a block anywhere else. Got any ideas?
I'm gonna commit and drill it out when I get to my drill press at my other house. What bit did you use?
how is performance now?
A Genny? Gosh, no!
Now you're talking! There are others as well. Vaping one is like driving a manual transmission. It gives you total control over how much juice gets to your wick and when.
Actually I have, and I find them just as boring as any other automatic. I've also seen how much they cost to fix when they break.You obviously haven't driven dual clutch automatic transmission...
No, I haven't. Looks as over-complicated as a DCT.Have you tried this Genny? [AGA T6]
Actually I have, and I find them just as boring as any other automatic. I've also seen how much they cost to fix when they break.
No, I haven't. Looks as over-complicated as a DCT.![]()
You need a GP Spheroid or Heron. Altitude changes? Nope.
So anyways.. decided to try another build. This time back to angled, but, keeping the coils apart, not tight. I wanted to see if this 'spread out' the heat on the wick and reduced the tendency to burn. Also figured that since I'm using NETs, the extra space would allow extra time before the gunk clogged things up and caused burning. The coil came out alright, still heats from the center out. The pic looks like there might be a slight hot spot, but I didnt play with the coil to fix it. I left it the way it came off the mandrel.
View attachment 353136
do you like your coil that high? I've been playing around with height and I think I prefer it about 1mm from airhole to bottom edge of coil. higher seems like more airflow, but muted flavor. lower seems to be more flavor, but less airflow. I'm still testing and parsing the difference, but that's conclusion I'm reaching.
In fact here is a snap shot of my truck dash board. Taken with an iPhone couple of months ago.
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That's a tough one. Rising altitude has lower air pressure so the air bubble willl expand, pushing juice out. Just like the bubbles that appear and expand when you open a bottle of soda. A valve like you're proposing would probably stop the kayfun working properly as the tank wouldn't be able to suck back juice from the wells (possibly leading to flooding itself). Each draw would lower the pressure of the (increasingly large) air bubble until either the kayfun seals failed, or (probably more likely) the partial vacuum would be strong enough to stop any more juice going up the channels leading to perpetual nasty dry hits.Unless, of course you are a truck driver like me and going up and down at different altitudes (from 0.0 to 4600 feet above sea level) all day. Then you are screwed. Every tank leaks in my situation. I'm even thinking of installing access pressure purge valves in my tanks. Either manual purge valve or spring loaded ball one way valve. Like Kayfun 3.1 ES Fill Valve only backwards. I would appreciate you thoughts on that.