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TheKiwi

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I figure you are talking about the pic I posted... yeah, I was surprised they didn't even put a Flathead slot in them... how hard would that be?!

I bought those thinking it would be a great idea. NOPE. Threw them away once I realize what a terrible replacement it was.

I find the flat cheesehead screws to be the single best option. I can even capture Mundy Magic wires with them




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AMDTrucking

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I use these screws for my Kayfuns, Foggers and modified Squape R. I think they are great.

M1.6 - 3mm SS Screws

41WdRBaTykL._SY100_.jpg
 
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JimmyDB

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I use these screws for my Kayfuns, Foggers and modified Squape R. I think they are great.

M1.6 - 3mm SS Screws

41WdRBaTykL._SY100_.jpg

I'm glad I saw the screw post, I have been keeping a window open at FatDaddyVapes with 'enhancement' parts I have been looking at.

I'm liking those screws AMD... Since this got me looking, I'll throw these ones out there...


18-8 Stainless Steel Metric Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw
M1.6 Size, 3mm Length, .35mm Pitch
$10.69 / 100pk





or should you think you need 316 versus '18-8'


Metric Cheese Head Slotted Machine Screw
316 Stainless Steel, M1.6 Size, 3mm Length, .35mm Pitch
$9.29 / 50pk





Now to start seeing if I have these part numbers in a box somewhere around here...
 

UKPaul

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Not sure why you hold off on the build. The kfl+ in stock form is outstanding. Build it as is and enjoy, then tweak. I own a few nano kits, and find that they hold too little juice. And the avid kit I looked at is not only too small, but looks like a leaker. You will find out soon enough.

If you want a shorter topper, look at the short tanks from SvoeMesto. I like them well enough. If you vape tank crackers, get a glass kit from science of vaping. The top cap threads onto the chimney, holding the Pyrex (not Quartz) tank in place. Works very well, does not leak, and is fairly durable.

I also find that the shorter chimney on a nano kit vapers too hot for me. One of my setups right now is a pico kit from mod factory via cloud9. I fit it with a Pyrex wider bore tip from spectrum tanks. Nice setup on an 18350 mod. Very pocketable and a nice vape. I will try to post a picture tomorrow.

In anticipation of you getting your KFL in service, welcome to the club.


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Thanks for the advice guys.

I will put a build in the stock Kayfun before trying any of the accesories so I have a baseline to compare with. :)

I went with the Avid Vaper quartz kit because the DX top cap screws onto the chimney, I didn't want to rely on the o'rings to hold it together but will have to wait and see.

I buy a lot from Cloud9 so will refresh my memory on their accesories along with science of vaping's.

I will try and post some pics later.
 

horton

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Lol! I have the same screws and same o-rings on my original KFL from September, 2013.

Same here..... I can understand how damage to the O-rings would occur, but I'm trying to see the same with the screws. Is the screw attrition due to getting lost or do they get "stripped" from over torquing? Maybe I should make this a poll?? :D
 

JimmyDB

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Same here..... I can understand how damage to the O-rings would occur, but I'm trying to see the same with the screws. Is the screw attrition due to getting lost or do they get "stripped" from over torquing? Maybe I should make this a poll?? :D

Someone could damage the head of the screw, lose one or more, or perhaps they just want to only need a single type of tool for all of their attys, they may even want one that is knurled for tool-less use or perhaps a larger head for thicker coil wire . There may be some that prefer to use a different metal, but I think that's quite small in comparison to lost screws or driver type.

i was initially interested in going tool-less via knurled heads.
 

tchavei

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Same here..... I can understand how damage to the O-rings would occur, but I'm trying to see the same with the screws. Is the screw attrition due to getting lost or do they get "stripped" from over torquing? Maybe I should make this a poll?? :D
Most problems with screws come from the fact that people use the wrong type of screwdriver. We have Philips screws and JIS (Japanese industry standard) they look the same but the angles of the point do not match perfectly. That's why you sometimes get the feeling the screwdriver sits perfectly in the screw head and sometimes it feels just ok. What's worse is that most of the time the user also doesn't know what type of Philips or JIS screwdriver he has so it becomes a lottery if you get a good grip or not.

When in doubt, I try several screwdrivers without too much pressure until I find the "exact" match.

Sometimes it's also a size problem. With Philips screws, people tend to use undersized points which aggravates the head stripping.

My two cents


Regards
Tony

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AMDTrucking

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I'm glad I saw the screw post, I have been keeping a window open at FatDaddyVapes with 'enhancement' parts I have been looking at.

I'm liking those screws AMD... Since this got me looking, I'll throw these ones out there...


18-8 Stainless Steel Metric Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw
M1.6 Size, 3mm Length, .35mm Pitch
$10.69 / 100pk





or should you think you need 316 versus '18-8'


Metric Cheese Head Slotted Machine Screw
316 Stainless Steel, M1.6 Size, 3mm Length, .35mm Pitch
$9.29 / 50pk





Now to start seeing if I have these part numbers in a box somewhere around here...

Good stuff, I bookmarked it.
 
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