Kayfun v5: Does yours leak?

[KODIAK (TM)]

My authentic leaks so bad I had to put it up. Changed o-rings twice using spare Svoemesto o-ring kits supplied specifically for this tank. It always leaks through the air slots. Waiting on some generic o-rings from fasttech. Maybe I'll fare better with those.

I've got three Kayfun 5's... an authentic ($120), an SKX clone from fasttech and a Kayfun v5 mini by SKX as well. The authentic is useless. The $20 SKX clone is ok but leaked a tad overnight once. The $20 "mini" hasn't leaked a drop.

Yes, my o-rings get a good lube and i know how to build/wick.

The authentic really wobbles when the juice control is unscrewed 2 full turns. I suspect the vacuum seal get's broken because of this and it leaks. The SKX has just a little wobble and the mini has no wobble at all (hence it never leaks).

This is the most fickle Kayfun version I've ever owned (Skipped version 4). These I suspect are the culprits (below). 7, 8, 9 are only 1.0mm o-rings. I wonder if 1.5mm might help?

 

[DaveP]

Check out Busardo's Kayfun 5 video on YouTube. He demonstrates the juice control and remarked that the manufacturer told him that 2 turns is max on juice feed. He demonstrates a "turn" as a 180 degrees in the video.

I vape at 10 watts. Mine is set around a half turn and feeds juice fine. That's also where he says that MTL vapers should start out and adjust to suit their vaping level.

 

[KODIAK (TM)]

He demonstrates the juice control and remarked that the manufacturer told him that 2 turns is max on juice feed.

That's what I do Dave-o. One revolution of the svoemesto logo. 11 watts. I've even cranked it down further on the authentic but eventually it still leaked.

The buzz is there are some cheap o-rings in some of these. I think it's hit and miss. I'm going to beef a few of them up.

I really want this tank to work out. In light of pending FDA gloom we need an RTA where spare parts are plentiful and a good inventory can be maintained.

 

[Eskie]

I think that's the first time I've heard about such severe leaking on an authentic. I had a clone from FT that leaked no matter what I did or how many times I reassembled it with new o rings. I hope you get it worked out. It's a lot of money for what is sup[posed to be a very reliable tank. Good luck.

 

[mrjohs]

If you paid $130 (is it?) then you probably could file a complaint to them and maybe get a replacement. It does not seem like your problem is widespread, so perhaps you got a dud?

 

[Maestro]

Unless you have a faulty tank, you have an air leak. Unless you lay it on its side, the juice simply cannot flow. Somewhere in the top section, air is getting in.

 

[Heartsdelight]

I've only used my SKX clone & I do sometimes notice slight seeping from the afc holes then I rewick I use rayon & all is well again.

 

[KODIAK (TM)]

Again, I don't think it's the tanks. Everything seems to be machined correctly. (I actually can't tell the difference between the SKX clone and the authentic).

I've replaced every single o-ring. Twice. Even the tiny hidden one tucked in the top cap (#4 in the above pic). Suspected it wasn't holding air. Things will be fine for a day or so then all of a sudden... with mod in hand my fingers get sticky and it starts oozing out.

I truly wish it was pilot error folks because that's easy to fix.

I've only used my SKX clone & I do sometimes notice slight seeping from the afc holes then I rewick I use rayon & all is well again.

Yes, that's me. But I use cotton. Of the 100's of builds I've made in my day, some pretty ugly to be sure but I've never had these kinds of problems.

 

[Heartsdelight]

Again, I don't think it's the tanks. Everything seems to be machined correctly. (I actually can't tell the difference between the SKX clone and the authentic).

I've replaced every single o-ring. Twice. Even the tiny hidden one tucked in the top cap (#4 in the above pic). Suspected it wasn't holding air. Things will be fine for a day or so then all of a sudden... with mod in hand my fingers get sticky and it starts oozing out.

I truly wish it was pilot error folks because that's easy to fix.

Maybe @dwcraig1 can answer he was very knowledgeable about the orings in the Kayfun clone thread.

 

[Dubminer]

Where did you get the o ring sizes from in the photo? I use these sizes. For #8 and#11 i use 11x1 instead of 10 x 1.

 

[Two_Bears]

My authentic leaks so bad I had to put it up. Changed o-rings twice using spare Svoemesto o-ring kits supplied specifically for this tank. It always leaks through the air slots. Waiting on some generic o-rings from Fasttech. Maybe I'll fare better with those.

I've got three Kayfun 5's... an authentic ($120), an SKX clone from fasttech and a Kayfun v5 mini by SKX as well. The authentic is useless. The $20 SKX clone is ok but leaked a tad overnight once. The $20 "mini" hasn't leaked a drop.

Yes, my o-rings get a good lube and i know how to build/wick.

The authentic really wobbles when the juice control is unscrewed 2 full turns. I suspect the vacuum seal get's broken because of this and it leaks. The SKX has just a little wobble and the mini has no wobble at all (hence it never leaks).

This is the most fickle Kayfun version I've ever owned (Skipped version 4). These I suspect are the culprits (below). 7, 8, 9 are only 1.0mm o-rings. I wonder if 1.5mm might help?

View attachment 619913

Same thing happened with my Kayfun Mini V3.

I had to turn the Juice flow off or The Juice woukd leak out the airflow over night.

My leak was caussd by a weak O Ring on tge drip tip.

 

[Two_Bears]

Check out Busardo's Kayfun 5 video on YouTube. He demonstrates the juice control and remarked that the manufacturer told him that 2 turns is max on juice feed. He demonstrates a "turn" as a 180 degrees in the video.

I vape at 10 watts. Mine is set around a half turn and feeds juice fine. That's also where he says that MTL vapers should start out and adjust to suit their vaping level.

On the Kayfun Mini V3 i opened the Juice flow 180-270 degrees.

 

[Two_Bears]

If you paid $130 (is it?) then you probably could file a complaint to them and maybe get a replacement. It does not seem like your problem is widespread, so perhaps you got a dud?

Very same problem happened witv my Kayfun Mini V3.

 

[Two_Bears]

I think that's the first time I've heard about such severe leaking on an authentic. I had a clone from FT that leaked no matter what I did or how many times I reassembled it with new o rings. I hope you get it worked out. It's a lot of money for what is sup[posed to be a very reliable tank. Good luck.

Happened with my authentic Kayfun Mini V3.

 

[DaveP]

The juice feed is kind of strange to me. You have an o-ring that's supposed to seal against the tank section and the instructions say to loosen the tank to adjust juice feed. The o-ring that the tank seats against obviously has enough softness to maintain a seal. The top cap provides the pressure as you screw the cap back onto the chimney top. I guess a top cap that isn't tightly screwed on could contribute to leaks.

I'm still on day one of using my Tobeco K5. Learning is progressing slowly. I opened it up yesterday and took it apart, then dunked the parts in a bowl of very warm water with a couple of squirts of Palmolive dish liquid. I stirred it once in a while during the evening and left it overnight to soak. I'm still getting low flavor with a taste of machine oil even though there was almost no scent of oil out of the package.

It will break in and fly right soon enough. It's going to get a dish soap bath in the ultrasonic cleaner tonight and several times in the AM.

 

[Dubminer]

The juice feed is kind of strange to me. You have an o-ring that's supposed to seal against the tank section and the instructions say to loosen the tank to adjust juice feed. The o-ring that the tank seats against obviously has enough softness to maintain a seal. The top cap provides the pressure as you screw the cap back onto the chimney top. I guess a top cap that isn't tightly screwed on could contribute to leaks.

I'm still on day one of using my Tobeco K5. Learning is progressing slowly. I opened it up yesterday and took it apart, then dunked the parts in a bowl of very warm water with a couple of squirts of Palmolive dish liquid. I stirred it once in a while during the evening and left it overnight to soak. I'm still getting low flavor with a taste of machine oil even though there was almost no scent of oil out of the package.

It will break in and fly right soon enough. It's going to get a dish soap bath in the ultrasonic cleaner tonight and several times in the AM.

@Dave.On all six of my Tobeco's i just soak in a little warm water and dawn for 20 minutes.Next toothbrush and a lot of dawn and a little water.Sud it up with a good scrubbing then a good rinsing.Never had any machine oil problem at all.Stick with it,this really is a great RTA.

 

[DaveP]

@Dave.On all six of my Tobeco's i just soak in a little warm water and dawn for 20 minutes.Next toothbrush and a lot of dawn and a little water.Sud it up with a good scrubbing then a good rinsing.Never had any machine oil problem at all.Stick with it,this really is a great RTA.

I'm committed to making it work. I just dropped it into the ultrasonic, o-rings and all with a squirt of Palmolive. Palmolive has worked well for me with Kayfuns. I'll get it straightened out with the UC and dish soap.

Once I have it free of oil it will be fine. I'm beginning to understand how the parts interact and it's much simpler than the K4.

 

[CrazyCory564]

I had leaking and gurgling issues until I raised the coil up more than normal, and started using a bit longer cotton tails. Ever since then, I haven't had any leaking for the most part. I have my juice control opened the full 2 turns (1 turn being a full 360 degree rotation) plus an extra 8th of a turn just to be sure it's all the way open

 

[Alien Traveler]

I have only clones ($15 and $25). They are of excellent machining (I wonder if German-Turkish workers can do as well as Chinese). And yes, they can leak badly. Very sensitive to wicking. I hate taking tank apart for rewicking, but sometimes I do have to. Never replaced any O-rings. As I found out with proper wicking they do not leak at all.

 

[KODIAK (TM)]

Where did you get the o ring sizes from in the photo? I use these sizes. For #8 and#11 i use 11x1 instead of 10 x 1.

Those you show are "Inside" diameter. My diagram depicts OD.

They're both the same size.

I hate taking tank apart for rewicking, but sometimes I do have to. Never replaced any O-rings. As I found out with proper wicking they do not leak at all.

I've heard this before (proper wicking) and never understood why this particular RTA should be so fickle. After all, no 2 builds are exactly alike. I've tried many tanks and never had so many issues. My K3 never leaked a drop but that was a bottom-filler.