Killer 705 atty

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finagle69

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Generally speaking from a physics perspective, using the method of pressing the cap on with the holes closed will impart a positive pressure in the tank. As soon as you open the feed holes, the pressure will equalize. This has to happen due to open channels. The fact that you start drawing on it creates a negative pressure on the inside of the Killer by the feed holes. juice gets sucked in due to this, but also air goes into the tank. This is why you see bubbles. It's all because the pressure has to equalize.

So realistically, the only "benefit" to using the push-in cap method of filling is to build a positive pressure which forces juice in when you open the holes. This could lead to initial flooding it there's too much pressure built up. An example of this would be if the end caps take up a lot of space in the tank. The more space the caps displace, the more pressure will build up when it's pressed in. Something like an IBTank, though, won't build as much pressure as the caps are thin.

Now, if you use a fill hole, firstly, you should definitely close the feed holes. Most likely, the needle will be coated with a little juice which almost perfectly plugs up that hole so no air can escape. With a top fill hole screw; If the feed holes are open, juice will force itself into the atty and flood it. Again this is due to the tank wanting to have equalized pressure.

This is the good thing about the Rapid Tank. Its fill hole is at the bottom. So turning it upside down, the feed holes can be open. When you inject juice, air will go into the feed holes (equalizing pressure), but nothing will happen otherwise. When you plug the hole and get ready to vape, it'll be fine as you again have equal pressure in the tank.

I'm not a physicist, but an electrical engineer, which required way too many physics classes for my liking. :)
 
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tmcase

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I was one of em having vacuum problems (vapor-lock) & as odd as it seems, I've found that if I close the feed assy, cap the tank, then open the feed assy (by twisting) after everything is back together, then I see air bubbles & have no probs w/vapor-lock. I don't understand why, but so far it has worked every time. Quirky.

That's the way it's recommended to fill but some tanks orings are so tight that you can't open the juice control so I open mine to where I want it and then snap the cap on. Works for me. <shrug>
 

finagle69

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That's the way it's recommended to fill but some tanks orings are so tight that you can't open the juice control so I open mine to where I want it and then snap the cap on. Works for me. <shrug>

I hear you. I have a Phiniac and some IBTanks. The are murder trying to turn or move anything. If it works for you, then don't change a thing! :)
 

Mozzie

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Thanks a lot for that explanation Finagle - phew, 1140 posts later :thumbs:

That's the way it's recommended to fill but some tanks orings are so tight that you can't open the juice control so I open mine to where I want it and then snap the cap on. Works for me. <shrug>

Presumably if you have the Killer upside down with the bottom cap off - with juice holes open but the base cap covering them - and then snap the cap back on, the pressure is created. Then putting the Killer back on the mod and sliding the tank down - uncovering the holes - will have the same effect as opening juice control by unscrewing it?

Or, thinking about it, if you use the fill hole but slide the tank up over the holes before you fill, then put the fill hole screw back in and slide the tank back down, that should prevent it flooding - right??
 

Yail Bloor

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Most likely, the needle will be coated with a little juice which almost perfectly plugs up that hole so no air can escape. With a top fill hole screw; If the feed holes are open, juice will force itself into the atty and flood it.
I'm afraid I have to disagree with this; whatever tiny amount of juice coating the needle (none in my case as I wipe my needle before insertion -eww that sounds dirty) would easily be displaced by the air wanting to find an escape, and even if not, the pressure would equalize once the needle is removed and before the fill screw is replaced. Sorry I should have specified that the leaking actually occurs after the needle is removed and just after the fill screw is replaced, regardless if the screw is replaced immediately or a few minutes after the fill. I suppose it is possible that the fill screw itself is building enough positive pressure to cause leakage, but I would find that hard to imagine due to its incredibly tiny size.
 
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Yail Bloor

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Your guess is as good as mine, in fact you seem to have a better grasp of the principals involved here then I do. I'm just sure it has nothing to do with the needle itself. I wouldn't rule out the sudden weight increase caused by adding more juice though. Think of it this way: the wick is already saturated and suddenly more weight is added causing a slight flood and some leakage. Once the leakage stops and the excess juice is vaped off, the wick can now handle the weight of a full tank of juice. How the fill screw comes into play there is beyond me.. I dunno, just thinking out loud here really.
 
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finagle69

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I'm afraid I have to disagree with this; whatever tiny amount of juice coating the needle (none in my case as I wipe my needle before insertion -eww that sounds dirty) would easily be displaced by the air wanting to find an escape, and even if not, the pressure would equalize once the needle is removed and before the fill screw is replaced. Sorry I should have specified that the leaking actually occurs after the needle is removed and just after the fill screw is replaced, regardless if the screw is replaced immediately or a few minutes after the fill. I suppose it is possible that the fill screw itself is building enough positive pressure to cause leakage, but I would find that hard to imagine due to its incredibly tiny size.

You're right. I should have clarified that I use larger needles due to thicker juice. When I (used to) fill an AGR tank with the fill hole, I'd constantly flood due to too much pressure as the needle/juice was creating a seal. Just speaking from my experience. :)

The reason you're flooding by leaving the fill hole out is again due to pressure:

If the tank is sealed, it has its air and wants to try to keep it that way, right? So that's why you can leave it on its side or whatnot and things will generally be just fine.

When you vent the tank to air, that liquid can freely flow because there's an alternate source of air for the tank.

Think if it like a can of soda (or beer). If you pop the top and turn it upside down, liquid flows out in a somewhat controlled flow. If you introduce another hole (like with a key, party time!), then the liquid flows out much more rapidly. Make sense?
 

Yail Bloor

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So for that to be the case then the flood actually occurred while the screw was out, and the leak only showing once the screw was replaced was coincidental... Yeah I can see that. Could it not also be possible though that the alternate air source allowed by removing the screw caused the chamber of the Killer to flood and the leak was caused by the tiny bit of pressure built by replacing the screw? I'm with you on the flooding, but the actual leak (for the record were talking a few drops here, nothing huge) seems to be directly associated with the screw being replaced. I haven't the foggiest what the actual cause is, but the screw going back in seems to play a part somehow.
 
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Yail Bloor

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Im going to test this right now. I am half way through a tank, I just removed the fill screw, and I will let it sit a few minutes. Then I will fill it with a thin syringe and let it sit a few more minutes. Then I'll put the screw back in and let it sit a while longer still. I'll report back with when the leak occurs.
 

finagle69

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So for that to be the case then the flood actually occurred while the screw was out, and the leak only showing once the screw was replaced was coincidental... Yeah I can see that. Could it not also be possible though that the alternate air source allowed by removing the screw caused the chamber of the Killer to flood and the leak was caused by the tiny bit of pressure built by replacing the screw? I'm with you on the flooding, but the actual leak (for the record were talking a few drops here, nothing huge) seems to be directly associated with the screw being replaced. I haven't the foggiest what the actual cause is, but the screw going back in seems to play a part somehow.

Yes I think so. If it's already flowing into the chamber due to having that screw out, then you place the screw in, that will force a little more thru as well. So in that case, I'd say the screw aides in even more leaking out.
 

GB023

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Hi guys
I know I am late to the convo, but I have been using the Killer for 3 weeks and it is an amazing vape. I did have problems at first and almost gave up. Now I am using a 22mm tank from Vaperfexion, specially o-rings (soft buna silicone blend) and glass tank. I found with this set up, adjusting juice flow is a snap and filling the tank was much easier and faster just sliding the tank up, covering fill holes (dripping mode) and sliding tank off of bottom cap over a straight drip tip and filling directly. For me it was also very important to keep good air flow, pulling to hard will also contribute to flooding. What worked for me was closing the juice flow to half way, which exposed more of the air hole on the 510 connector, this created a very smooth draw and no flooding at all. After three years vaping and three weeks with the Killer, it is one of the best vapes I have experienced and NOW easy to set up and maintain.
 

chadsmo

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Anyone know which vendor have stock for the killer that provide international shipping? Seem to be sold out everywhere.. Or I may try my luck in the classified. Is the replacement cup easily available ?


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Three websites I'm aware of them carry them, just check them every day. I didn't order one last month then when I wanted one they were gone everywhere. I got lucky with the site in Ireland last week. Their price was a tiny bit high but I didn't real care lol. And yes the ceramic cups are readily available. I have 5 of them right now for my Dripper Pro and ill share my rebuilds of them with the Killer until I get around to ordering more of them.

http://www.greekvapes.eu/
http://www.houseofmods.co.uk/
http://www.e-smokeireland.eu/Default.asp

Shipping from each of those sites is about 10$
 

kimochi-ii

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Three websites I'm aware of them carry them, just check them every day. I didn't order one last month then when I wanted one they were gone everywhere. I got lucky with the site in Ireland last week. Their price was a tiny bit high but I didn't real care lol. And yes the ceramic cups are readily available. I have 5 of them right now for my Dripper Pro and ill share my rebuilds of them with the Killer until I get around to ordering more of them.

GREEK-VAPES
http://www.houseofmods.co.uk/
e-smokeireland

Shipping from each of those sites is about 10$

Thanks for the info, where do you order the ceramic cup by the way? I'll definitely check those site everyday :D
 
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