Let's talk hardware

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Chakris

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1. Any conductive positive nipple will do. It just needs to be something solid for the positive end of the bat to make contact with. The green stuff is most likely high-temp silicone gasket compound. All you need is something to isolate the connector. A thin rubber disc, cut to size and glued in place would do as well. The clear glue is likely silicone to keep everything in place and insulated.

2. Cutting the tube proved to be unnecessary for me. I pulled apart my Vamo and there is a press-fit ring which holds the two body pieces together. The ring contains the red paper isolator. I just popped the ring out and no cutting necessary.
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3. No modifications to the connector. The metal (of the top bracket piece) is only 1mm thick around the connector. tanks should sit flush without any gaps. I don't know how this will affect airflow-dependent devices. Some modification may be in store.

4. I don't know the gauge wire, but we're only talking about a maximum of 5 amps (which you would never get to). You don't need thick wire for that. I'm probably going to use 14 gauge wire and no-lead solder.

Thanks, XFoo. This looks pretty straight forward, however, I still have a couple more questions:
1. Would that nipple be available at say, something like a Radio Shack/electric supply store? Or would I have to salvage it from an old battery? I take it one of those magnetic nipples would not be advisable to use, or would they be ok?
and how is it connected to the base, clue? You're saying the nipple would also need to be insulated from the base, right?
(Don't want a self-inflicting taser! "Hey, bro, check out my new mod," - ZzzzxxZZxxzz!! :shock: LOL)

2. Ok, no cutting - that's good - mine looks to be the same. Can I ask how you popped the ring out?

3. Some modification, or maybe an adaptor? Kanger T3's/eVods will probably need a 510/ego510 anyway.

4. 14 gauge and no-lead solder sound about right.

Thanks again for the info. Definitely something to ticker with.

Just pulled the trigger on a black blem Provari. Nervous about the expense, but a little tired of cheap Chinese stuff that doesn't hold up.

Congrats, Ice. Definitely like to see pics when it get there. :)

We got an echo in this thread.

Congrats Ice. You wont regret it. Give her a name. Mine is named Ida. :)

Thought about naming my Odysseys, but Ody-G and Ody-SS don't have that ring to 'em. :blink:
Have to work on that...

Thanks guys. Just trying to be more like GT ;)

We'll have to call you Ice-chimp then. ;)

You got it!

Can't wait to see...
 
No fancy talk from me like Vamos or Provaris...but I just came by to say I have fallen in love with my large Vivi Nova. I used to hate it and complained about a hard draw. It was just the head on it at the time. And now I realize I overstated my vaping consumption. I vape about a large Vivi Nova tank full a day. I can fill it in the morning and I don't have to mess with anything all day long. Just vape away! :)

Life has been keeping me busy lately...but I think I'm gonna try rewicking a Vivi Nova head this weekend. :unsure:
 

XfooYen

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Thanks, XFoo. This looks pretty straight forward, however, I still have a couple more questions:
1. Would that nipple be available at say, something like a Radio Shack/electric supply store? Or would I have to salvage it from an old battery? I take it one of those magnetic nipples would not be advisable to use, or would they be ok?
and how is it connected to the base, clue? You're saying the nipple would also need to be insulated from the base, right?
(Don't want a self-inflicting taser! "Hey, bro, check out my new mod," - ZzzzxxZZxxzz!! :shock: LOL)

2. Ok, no cutting - that's good - mine looks to be the same. Can I ask how you popped the ring out?

3. Some modification, or maybe an adaptor? Kanger T3's/eVods will probably need a 510/ego510 anyway.

4. 14 gauge and no-lead solder sound about right.

1. Any new or salvaged conductive piece of metal will do as long as its center is raised to meet the positive end of the battery. A magnet would do but its overkill, plus you need to solder the wire to it. It's best to get something you can solder from under the contact. The battery should not make direct contact with solder or the wire but preferably with the contact piece it is connected to. From the pics it looks as though the base is first coated with an insulator (liquid electrical tape would do this) and the wired connector is laid on top and then allowed to dry. Then, clear silicone is layered around the outer edges of the connector to further isolate its center portion. The positive connector must be insulated from any contact with the body or it will cause a short.

2. If when you pull the two body pieces apart, the ring remains in the logic board side, use pliers. If the ring is in the battery side, you can tap it loose with anything blunt that fits through the tube. I used the blunt end of a 3/4in drill bit. Smacked it a few times and it poped right out.

3. Anything with skirting will need an adapter. I was referring to carto tanks and Vivi Novas which require airflow from the connector. If they sit flush on the top of the piece, there may be insufficient airflow. A well placed hole (or 2) in the Vamo's top along the side could provide airflow to the drip well and would be virtually invisible. If it's necessary, that's what I would do.

4. No lead solder has a higher melting point than regular electrical solder (by a little). It has a small amount of silver in it which is very conductive. 14AWG electrical wire has a maximum current transmission of roughly 6 amps and adds 2.5ohms/1000ft of resistance. It's the minimum spec I would use in a boosted circuit with high drain bats. If you wanted to go a little safer, you could do 12AWG wire which rates at 9.3 amps and 1.6 ohms/1000ft. With the thicker wire you could run into space issues. I'll try both and report.
 

speedydave

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So I have a bit of a dilemma. A coworker is asking me to pick up an e-cig kit for his father-in-law. My coworker has no interest in learning about them and says he trusts my judgement. He only has two real requests: it should be as simple as possible, and he'd like it to taste like a Marlboro (I know, I know...). I think an eGo kit would make the most sense, but I don't know what juice delivery system would be best. I started with a 5V mod and dual coil cartos, so I'm at a bit of a loss here.

Juice is a whole different story... :blink:
 

speedydave

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Looking over the menu system for the Provari. Funny that I never thought of it before I bought one. Somebody tell me that it's not as tiresome as it looks.

I thought the same thing, but you get used to it pretty quickly. The only thing that sucks is if you miss the function you want and have to go through everything back to the function you intended.
 

XfooYen

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So I have a bit of a dilemma. A coworker is asking me to pick up an e-cig kit for his father-in-law. My coworker has no interest in learning about them and says he trusts my judgement. He only has two real requests: it should be as simple as possible, and he'd like it to taste like a Marlboro (I know, I know...). I think an eGo kit would make the most sense, but I don't know what juice delivery system would be best. I started with a 5V mod and dual coil cartos, so I'm at a bit of a loss here.

Juice is a whole different story... :blink:

Get two eGo twist batteries and a few Kanger Evod clearo tanks in the same color as the bat. It's super easy, variable voltage, and aesthetically sound. Later on, if he takes to vaping, he can explore different options. The "tasting like a Marlboro" thing is a common request of newcomers and is often a passing phase. I know of no juice that tastes like a cig, but there are ones out there that come pretty close. Bronze and gt would probably have good suggestions for the juice.
 

smitighe

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Get two eGo twist batteries and a few Kanger Evod clearo tanks in the same color as the bat. It's super easy, variable voltage, and aesthetically sound. Later on, if he takes to vaping, he can explore different options. The "tasting like a Marlboro" thing is a common request of newcomers and is often a passing phase. I know of no juice that tastes like a cig, but there are ones out there that come pretty close. Bronze and gt would probably have good suggestions for the juice.

On the juice bit I was the same way. Wanted something that tasted like a Marlboro. I think Dark Horse and Huntsman are a great fit. They are my go to juices when I want a "Marlboro" taste. Ego's are great devices. I still use 3 of em.

And X you really like those evods huh? Better than T3's? I been eyeballing them.


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