Looking for new experience

[Edwin Betz]

What is the difference between regular mods and mechanical mods. What are some pros and cons. I am still wet behind the eard when it comes to vaping, but after learning to build RTA, rda, and RDTA I am looking to try some new things. I am learning to make my own juice now with a 25% success on flavor. Now i am looking into mechanical mods. Any info or advice for the newbe???

 

[Zaryk]

Best thing to do when looking to get into mechs is to do your research. I would start here.

(8) A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[stols001]

Mechs are a different vape, that's for sure. Sounds like you are building your skills steadily, and that is great. I would never discourage someone from trying a mech if they desire and it's not so much that the learning curve is steep, (although there is a lot to learn) it's more that you really need to learn what you are doing first, as a mistake can be far costlier than in a regulated mod, where there are some basic protections that (usually) will kick in if an error is made, a mech doesn't have any of the same protections.

I'd say the first thing to know about a mechanical mod is that (especially at first) you don't want to go pushing any safety limits. You'll need to know your battery, that it is authentic and the specs of the battery. Then you will use Ohm's laws to calculate what types of build is "safe" for the battery. I would err on the side of caution and maybe build higher than "the lowest calculated amount you can go." You may (eventually) enjoy lower resistance builds, but I'd probably start around 0.4ish, depending on your typical vaping style and the battery and mod you choose, as a) your ohm's meter may well "calculate" to a degree, but it's not always completely accurate. You may find you eventually prefer a lower vape (IDK exactly how you vape) but getting some experience at more reasonable builds is probably a good idea at first.

As far as the rest of it, you need to keep your batteries and wraps (and builds) in great shape, as neglecting any of those areas may wind you up in trouble. If you plan to bring your mech out and about, you will need to find a way to transport it safely, whether that means removing the battery or what.

Finally you will need to keep your mech clean and check the contacts regularly to make sure no arcing is going on between the mech and your battery.

But, most of all, keep asking about what doesn't make sense to you. A successful mech user is someone who comes and asks ALL of these questions, prior to trying to vape one. So, you are already successful, simply by coming and asking about what skills you need to acquire and etc.

Best of luck and welcome to ECF,. I'm sure you'll get much more specific advice from more experienced mech users and I would heed it. That will give you your greatest chance of success.


Anna

 

[Br0k3nW1ngz]

id suggest a single battery mech to start on, i started on a pulse bf mod as 1 cell either 18650 or 20700 and got to try squonking at same time, found out i love to use mechs and building for them is fun and relaxing to me, i could always suggest a few builds for single or dual but id suggest single on a 1 battery

 

[Baditude]

I've used both mechs and regulated. I like both, but prefer regulated.

I like to change my vape on the fly. For example, I like a milder/weaker vape earlier in the day. Sometimes I want a stronger vape later in the day. I simply reset the wattage setting "on the fly". Can't do that with a mech. It's output is "fixed".

A mech's performance will decline gradually as you use the battery. A fully charged battery will give a stronger vape, and as the battery is drained the vape will become weaker. There is no regulating chip to keep the strength of your vape the same like a regulated mod has.

And of course with a mech you have to stay on your toes concerning safety practices. A mech is far less forgiving for careless mistakes. A regulated mod will have protection circuitry built-in to help you avoid a short-circuit, avoid using a too low coil resistance, accidentally over-discharging the battery (prolonged pressure on the fire button can over-discharge the battery causing it to go into thermal runaway; a regulated mod will have an auto timer to shut the power off after several seconds).

 

[Edwin Betz]

I really like the feedback from you guys. I really like the flavor I get from my RDA and RDTA builds. I also like to make big clouds, so I usually push my coils with 90/10 mix when possible. I usually clean and re-wick my builds daily (every other day at the very least). I just found a flavor that really surprised me. Vanilla is the flavor, but it tastes like roasted marshmallows! Unfortunately it is very dark and very sweet with high VG, so I only vape about 5-6ml before I have to clean my coils. But the flavor and clouds are very worth it! I am using a .45 ohm coil on 55w and it's awesome. I am really excited about getting a mech mod, but am educating myself first, as from what I hear they can be dangerous if not used correctly.

 

[Baditude]

I am really excited about getting a mech mod, but am educating myself first, as from what I hear they can be dangerous if not used correctly.

My hat is off to you for having the forethought to educate yourself before diving into the deep end of the pool. Maybe I can help with that:

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod
Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations for a Mechanical Mod

 

[Edwin Betz]

Mechs are a different vape, that's for sure. Sounds like you are building your skills steadily, and that is great. I would never discourage someone from trying a mech if they desire and it's not so much that the learning curve is steep, (although there is a lot to learn) it's more that you really need to learn what you are doing first, as a mistake can be far costlier than in a regulated mod, where there are some basic protections that (usually) will kick in if an error is made, a mech doesn't have any of the same protections.

I'd say the first thing to know about a mechanical mod is that (especially at first) you don't want to go pushing any safety limits. You'll need to know your battery, that it is authentic and the specs of the battery. Then you will use Ohm's laws to calculate what types of build is "safe" for the battery. I would err on the side of caution and maybe build higher than "the lowest calculated amount you can go." You may (eventually) enjoy lower resistance builds, but I'd probably start around 0.4ish, depending on your typical vaping style and the battery and mod you choose, as a) your ohm's meter may well "calculate" to a degree, but it's not always completely accurate. You may find you eventually prefer a lower vape (IDK exactly how you vape) but getting some experience at more reasonable builds is probably a good idea at first.

As far as the rest of it, you need to keep your batteries and wraps (and builds) in great shape, as neglecting any of those areas may wind you up in trouble. If you plan to bring your mech out and about, you will need to find a way to transport it safely, whether that means removing the battery or what.

Finally you will need to keep your mech clean and check the contacts regularly to make sure no arcing is going on between the mech and your battery.

But, most of all, keep asking about what doesn't make sense to you. A successful mech user is someone who comes and asks ALL of these questions, prior to trying to vape one. So, you are already successful, simply by coming and asking about what skills you need to acquire and etc.

Best of luck and welcome to ECF,. I'm sure you'll get much more specific advice from more experienced mech users and I would heed it. That will give you your greatest chance of success.


Anna

I finally ordered my first Mech Mod. It is an Ijoy RDTA Mod with a matching Ijoy Limitless RDTA tank. Think what you will, but I got it in Purple, my favorite color! I am both excited and nervous at the same time. I do have one question, do I need to have an ohm meter for my coils or can I continue using my box mods to measure the resistance?

 

[entropy1049]

View attachment 740375
I finally ordered my first Mech Mod. It is an Ijoy RDTA Mod with a matching Ijoy Limitless RDTA tank. Think what you will, but I got it in Purple, my favorite color! I am both excited and nervous at the same time. I do have one question, do I need to have an ohm meter for my coils or can I continue using my box mods to measure the resistance? View attachment 740375 View attachment 740375

I’m not familiar with this mod, but someone will jump in.

Your box mod is fine for obtaining a resistance reading as long as you’re not building at the margin of your cells CDR. If you’re building at ~0.45, and your cells are rated for higher current, say at least 20 amps, your safety factor is sufficient for a potentially 0.1 ohm margin of error.

Don’t be afraid of your mech, but respect the differences in its operation compared to a regulated mod. YOU are the single greatest safety factor in the use of any mod. Continue to research, learn, watch tutorial videos, and keep battery safety your top priority and you’re gonna love mechs.

 

[Zaryk]

An ohm meter isn't required if you have a mod that reads resistance accurately. In fact, a nice ohm meter is likely to cost more than an older mod that reads resistance well.

 

[Baditude]

View attachment 740375
I finally ordered my first Mech Mod. I do have one question, do I need to have an ohm meter for my coils or can I continue using my box mods to measure the resistance?

You could use the ohm meter on one of your regulated mods. However, I still think its an excellent idea to have a dedicated ohm reader, if only to be used as a second or third "opinion" on your coil resistance. When we are measuring coils less than an ohm, few resistance meters are dependably accurate or precise at that resistance. Unless you have a several hundred dollar plus Fluke digital multimeter.

However, I'm concerned about the type of mech you've chosen.
You have purchased what is known as a "HYBRID" mechanical mod. Also known more accurately as a direct battery or faux hybrid mod. It has no center pin in the 510 connector. These can be extremely dangerous in the hands of a novice or uninformed user. We generally don't recommend novices to use hybrid top mechanical mods.

The tank that comes with your mod has the appropriate extended center pin necessary to be used on a hybrid mech, but be aware that you can't put just any other juice attachment onto your mech. Every juice attachment used on a direct battery mod MUST have an extended center pin or you run a high risk of explosion.

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

• Covers the differences between a mechanical vs. regulated mod, essential safety accessories, optional safety accessories to add layers of safety to your mech, routine maintanance, use of proper batteries, proper ventilation, low resistance vaping, and faux hybrid mods.

 

[Edwin Betz]

You could use the ohm meter on one of your regulated mods. However, I still think its an excellent idea to have a dedicated ohm reader, if only to be used as a second or third "opinion" on your coil resistance. When we are measuring coils less than an ohm, few resistance meters are dependably accurate or precise at that resistance. Unless you have a several hundred dollar plus Fluke digital multimeter.

However, I'm concerned about the type of mech you've chosen.
You have purchased what is known as a "HYBRID" mechanical mod. Also known more accurately as a direct battery or faux hybrid mod. It has no center pin in the 510 connector. These can be extremely dangerous in the hands of a novice or uninformed user. We generally don't recommend novices to mechanical mods to use these.

The tank that comes with your mod has the appropriate extended center pin necessary to be used on a hybrid mech, but be aware that you can't put just any other juice attachment onto your mech. Every juice attachment used on a direct battery mod MUST have an extended center pin or you run a high risk of explosion.

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

• Covers the differences between a mechanical vs. regulated mod, essential safety accessories, optional safety accessories to add layers of safety to your mech, routine maintanance, use of proper batteries, proper ventilation, low resistance vaping, and faux hybrid mods.

Thank you, Baditude. As I am still a little nervous about using a Mech mod, I WILL make sure to learn safety protocol, first. I most likely won't get it to a few weeks, as it is coming from overseas, I will make sure to educate myself further. Thank you for the info and links.

Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk

 

[Zaryk]

Thank you, Baditude. As I am still a little nervous about using a Mech mod, I WILL make sure to learn safety protocol, first. I most likely won't get it to a few weeks, as it is coming from overseas, I will make sure to educate myself further. Thank you for the info and links.

Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk

The biggest mistake I see new mech users do with hybrid top caps is to over tighten the tank and dent the battery. You want it to be snug but not tight, you can feel when the 510 touches the battery if you screw it down slowly.

Just be careful, do your homework (ohms law, proper mech care, battery care, ect) and you should be fine.

 

[gpjoe]

That's a great mod. I owned two of the original (non-IJoy) Limitless mods, and have used the IJoy RDTAs as well. They are easy to build and fill, and vape nicely without a lot of fuss.

Most concerns have already been covered by others, so I will add that your .45-ohm load will draw 9.33 amps and produce 39.2 watts assuming a full battery charge of 4.2 volts. So, right off the bat you will need to expect a cooler vape than you are getting at 55-watts on your regulated mod with the same build. To get the same wattage on a mech you will need to build at .32-ohms which will draw a hair over 13-amps.

Good news is that you will be well within the amperage limits of any name-brand 20-amp battery.

As Baditude suggests, I would consider getting a dedicated ohmmeter, and make sure to check your build with the cap installed on the atomizer.

Being nervous is OK, but being informed is better.

 

[Edwin Betz]

You could use the ohm meter on one of your regulated mods. However, I still think its an excellent idea to have a dedicated ohm reader, if only to be used as a second or third "opinion" on your coil resistance. When we are measuring coils less than an ohm, few resistance meters are dependably accurate or precise at that resistance. Unless you have a several hundred dollar plus Fluke digital multimeter.

However, I'm concerned about the type of mech you've chosen.
You have purchased what is known as a "HYBRID" mechanical mod. Also known more accurately as a direct battery or faux hybrid mod. It has no center pin in the 510 connector. These can be extremely dangerous in the hands of a novice or uninformed user. We generally don't recommend novices to use hybrid top mechanical mods.

The tank that comes with your mod has the appropriate extended center pin necessary to be used on a hybrid mech, but be aware that you can't put just any other juice attachment onto your mech. Every juice attachment used on a direct battery mod MUST have an extended center pin or you run a high risk of explosion.

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

• Covers the differences between a mechanical vs. regulated mod, essential safety accessories, optional safety accessories to add layers of safety to your mech, routine maintanance, use of proper batteries, proper ventilation, low resistance vaping, and faux hybrid mods.

I have some rdta tanks that I can unscrew th center pin to extend it. Would these be safe to use on this hybrid mod? How can I tell when ordering online if a tank has an extended center pin?

 

[Baditude]

@Edwin Betz Theoretically, yes you could try that. Would it be safe? That depends upon how well the center pin stays fixed in the place you adjusted it to. Sometimes one has to over-tighten the juice attachment into the 510 threading of the hybrid to make it sit flush on top of the mod, which in turn can crush the positive battery contacts (not a good thing at all). In turn, that over-tightening could force the center pin of the juice attachment to be flush with the 510 connector, which can lead to a short circuit in a hybrid top mod (not a good thing).

Personally, I think a direct battery mod is a very poor, unnecessary mechanical design. Using one just adds additional things to check on your setup every day. I would never buy or use one myself, and would never suggest anyone buy or use one. Whatever improvement in voltage drop because of the lack of an insulated center pin is negligible when factoring in the increased risk of danger. There allegedly have been more mod explosions when using a direct battery mech than any other e-cigarette. I've seen the damage these mods can do. It's just not worth the risk to me.

Is that fear mongering? I'll leave that for others to decide.

To answer your last question, when ordering an atomizer online, hopefully there is a pic or illustration showing the 510 connector already with an extended center pin.

 

[Edwin Betz]

@Edwin Betz Theoretically, yes you could try that. Would it be safe? That depends upon how well the center pin stays fixed in the place you adjusted it to. Sometimes one has to over-tighten the juice attachment into the 510 threading of the hybrid to make it sit flush on top of the mod, which in turn can crush the positive battery contacts (not a good thing at all). In turn, that over-tightening could force the center pin of the juice attachment to be flush with the 510 connector, which can lead to a short circuit (not a good thing).

Personally, I think a direct battery mod is a very poor, unnecessary mechanical design. Using one just adds additional things to check on your setup every day. I would never buy or use one myself, and would never suggest anyone buy or use one. Whatever improvement in voltage drop because of the lack of an insulated center pin is negligible when factoring in the increased risk of danger. There allegedly have been more mod explosions when using a direct battery mech than any other e-cigarette. I've seen the damage these mods can do. It's just not worth the risk to me.

Is that fear mongering? I'll leave that for others to decide.

To answer your last question, when ordering an atomizer online, hopefully there is a pic or illustration showing the 510 connector already with an extended center pin.

Is there anything I can get to insulate the center pin for this mod?

Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk

 

[Baditude]

Is there anything I can get to insulate the center pin for this mod?

You're missing the point. There is NO center pin in a direct battery mod.

Some mechs come with two different top caps which can be removeable: a normal top with a center pin and a hybrid top without a center pin.

 

[Edwin Betz]

Is there a Mech mod you could recommend for my first Mech mod? I am really nervous about this one at this point.

Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk

 

[Baditude]

Is there a Mech mod you could recommend for my first Mech mod? I am really nervous about this one at this point.

Well, my priorities when choosing a mech may be different from yours and others. Safety considerations are my first priority, and I haven't found an ideal candidate yet. I'll share what I look for and why:

1. First of all, I look for a sturdy stainless steel 510 connector with an insulated center pin. The reason should be obvious from our recent posts.

2. Next, I look for what I consider to be adequate vent holes. If a mech has no vent holes, the accumulating gas from a venting battery turns a metal tube mech into a pipe bomb. I'm disappointed at how many tube mechs have no vent holes at all. If they do, they are usually located in the bottom of the mech (often in the bottom fire button). The problem with this, is batteries are designed to vent from their top. If the battery itself blocks the pathway to the bottom vent hole(s), then I consider that inadequate venting.

Above is a mech which has a single vent hole in the bottom fire button. You're looking from the bottom up. Notice there is no room for any gas to escape past the tight quarters of the battery down to the vent hole. It is essentially an enclosed metal tube and therefore has inadequate venting.

IMHO, the ideal location for ventilation is in the top of the mod, where the top of the battery is and where the gas will begin to accumulate. Any gas created can easily escape. Mech Mods with top venting holes?

3. Finally, a locking fire button or recessed fire button. If you carry your mod in a pocket or purse, you need to be able to disable the fire button so that it doesn't accidentally become depressed and over-discharge the battery in your pocket. I had a battery in a mech whose fire button got depressed in a pants pocket and then exploded; luckily the gas vented from the top ventilation design and the mod itself didn't explode.

.

Recessed bottom fire button (top), maybe not as safe as a locking button, but much safer than a protruding button (below).

4. A nice feature I've recently seen with many new mods is a non-conductive (plastic or silicone) sleeve for the battery compartment. This can prevent a battery from shorting out should it have undetected nicks or tears in the insulating sleeve which can short out the battery.

5. There are a few unregulated mods that use some form of protection circuitry similar to a regulated mod. So technically, its not a true mech. Unfortunately, the ones I'm aware of are made by SMOK, and I'm not a fan of SMOK because of their poor quality and lack of customer support. Therefore, I can't recommend them.

It wouldn't add that much to the final parts cost of the mod to include the above "features" I described. Adding them would only add more "hands on" man hours to the manufacturing cost.