WHO ARE YOU
I am actually understanding this or my mind has had a minute breakthrough in understanding the logics of math.
I feel so good, I get it, I finally get- it has to be that rare breakthrough in my brain that letting this information seep through which I am sure will pass. I know its been explained before, maybe finally I took the time to understand it.
lol..for me it was alot of blah blah blah too...until I saw it charted out and all in relation to each other..
Turns out there are only 3 real math problems that you need to get.. Wattage = voltage
2/resistance
and for amps.... voltage/resistance
and max drain on your batteries is mAh *C rating/1000 (typical C rating on Lion batteries is between 1C and 2C or most battery sites will just tell you what the max drain is)
those 3 things and you can kinda figure out how hard you're being on your batteries with what atty and configuration and how safe it really is on your batteries..
Short story there is in reality a 1.5Ω atty on a single high mAh 3.7 battery is actually safer and less stressfull on your batteries than stacked batteries in several ways..
EDIT: example 1.5Ω atty on a 3.7V 17670 (1800mAh) battery Vs. Stacked LiFePo 3.0V CR123a (750mAh) batteries with a 4.5Ω atty...
1.5Ω on the 3.7V battery....
9.1W of heat = 3.7 (squared)/1.5
Amps of draw on battery = 2.5A = 3.7/1.5
Max drain rate of battery = 2.7A = 1800 (mAh) * 1.5 (C rating of ultrafires)/1000
now the tenergy batteries and 4.5Ω atty
8W of heat = 6 (squared)/ 4.5
amps drawn on batteries = 1.33A =6/4.5
Max drain rate of battery (per manufacturer) = <.55A (ut oh...way less than the 1.33 needed= possible battery damage..LiFePo are safe chemistry though...but on regular Lion this is what trips the PCB in protected batteries and causes them to not work(over discharge protection)...or on unprotected batteries this overdischarge is what can cause the batteries to go pop..