Mine gurggles too. Music, ya, Sweet music I must say! I wouldnt care if it growled or whistled I still love it! And I have had no problems at all!Music to my ears. When you don't hear it it's time to top off.![]()
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Mine gurggles too. Music, ya, Sweet music I must say! I wouldnt care if it growled or whistled I still love it! And I have had no problems at all!Music to my ears. When you don't hear it it's time to top off.![]()
In high drain applications (near 2C), AW 10440 cells provide significantly more runtime before dropping appreciably in output voltage compared to Ultrafire cells. Here are specific results I obtained with each battery using my Arcmania Extreme III.
I have tested both cells in my Extreme III (like the LF2X but with a Rebel 100), and the AW cells do fare better than Ultrafires: they maintain high mode (100% output) down to 3.70-3.74V open circuit compared to 3.9V for the Ultrafires. This translates to a runtime of 12:46 at 100% before the flashlight first gives a low voltage warning. This cell began at 4.18V and was discharged in twelve - 1 minute intervals and one - 46 second interval. The light will continue running at 100%, but begins giving regular warnings, so realistically it would probably be better to switch to a lower level that doesn't pull the cell voltage down as much. The Ultrafire cells only gave about 7 minutes on high for comparison.
The USB has to be in just right to connect. As soon as I pick it up the red light goes off and I have to put pressure on it a certain way to get USB power.
No matter which battery I use I still get the red flashing light. It will not produce any vapor. I only had it for 2-3 weeks....It was working perfectly until the other day. I dont know why its doing this. I tried cleaning it and letting it dry out over night. The USB works perfectly and charges my battery fine. I just dont know whats wrong with it. I'm going to trade it in for something else....I hope. either a 801....or a janty dura C....
feel free to open the stick body by clicking it open (upper grey body part and black part underneath can click open if you do it carefully using your fingernails a bit in the front part (ato mouthpiece side), then a bit at then end (Led side), then again a bit in the front part, then the end part again, you will see slowly it will open until it clicks open)
You must be sure to put the nuclear material back in it's proper spot when you reassemble the unit or:
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Yup, it can be opened. Here's how Ludo described it to me in an email: