Merlin by Augvape and Roxy

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DebbieNY

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@DebbieNY , the very first page of this thread has roxys wicking pictures with rayon.
Definitely snap a pic of what you have and we can see if we have any help to offer!

Just took a look and it appears as though she didn't thin out the tails of the rayon at all (just blunt cut the rayon), is this correct? Everything I've read tells you to cut the upper half of the rayon shorter or at an angle and to leave longer tails at the juice channels. Could that be the problem?
 
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dshuld

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Nah, just effin' lazy. LOL! With rayon, I've learned that it lasts longer than cotton, so I wouldn't have to rewick as often, and it doesn't burn in the same way that cotton does. I'm relatively new to building/wicking, so my skills probably suck (I'm using the restrictor in the Merlin, BTW). I built/wicked a Serpent Mini (got that before the Merlin) and it doesn't leak at all, despite not having a JFC. :::shrug:::



I recall someone saying that if you turn the AFC to the closed position, the draw should feel restricted. If it's not and it's airy, then that is a symptom of the defect, but I can't find the post(s) right now. Is this true?
Lol ok. Best I can say then is fold the rayon over the side of the base. Cut it around the second thread being careful not to cut the oring (don't ask why I'm mentioning this ;-) ). Fluff it up really well after that and then tuck it in around the inside cup. If the rayon is blocking the cup put your finger on top and use tweezers or what ever you have there to push that up.

See if that helps you any and we'll go from there.
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juicynoos

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I recall someone saying that if you turn the AFC to the closed position, the draw should feel restricted. If it's not and it's airy, then that is a symptom of the defect,

@TrollDragon and @ricks might be able to help you with this. Regarding wicking and coil diameter I am only just getting myself familiar with the Merlin since they arrived only yesterday. The only issue I have found is kinda opposite to yours...if you have too much cotton too deep into the juice wells you won't see bubbles and are on the way to dry hit City!
I'm using some 3 mm ID Clapton and Tidal wires in mine with plenty of fluffy cotton. Works well so far.
The afc seems a bit loose on the 2 I got which are from STS and from the 1st batch, but there is no issue thus far.
 
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MMW

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Just took a look and it appears as though she didn't thin out the tails of the rayon at all (just blunt cut the rayon), is this correct? Everything I've read tells you to cut the upper half of the rayon shorter or at an angle and to leave longer tails at the juice channels. Could that be the problem?
Hi Debbie. She doesn't thin the tails. She uses 3-3.5mm coils and 70vg.
 
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TrollDragon

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Just took a look and it appears as though she didn't thin out the tails of the rayon at all (just blunt cut the rayon), is this correct? Everything I've read tells you to cut the upper half of the rayon shorter or at an angle and to leave longer tails at the juice channels. Could that be the problem?
I have the notch coil in mine and wick with Rayon.
I pull the whole strand of Sally's through and cut it off parallel with the outside edge of the base. Fluff out on both sides into a bow tie shape and cut the top 1/2 of each side off level with the coil. Bend and tuck the remaining half of the wick down into the juice cup, don't pack it in but leave any excess in the deck channel.

I make sure the juice hole is not covered like @dshuld does, prime and put the tank back on.

There is a lot of Rayon used with the notch coils so you must trim and adjust accordingly.

I use a 50/50 juice with one and an 80/20 VG/PG juice with the other. I don't close off the JFC while filling either tank. Just take the top off, fill and put the top back on. This is not the cause of the seeping on my stainless Merlin, it starts seeping only after moving the JFC around.
 

DebbieNY

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@TrollDragon and @ricks might be able to help you with this. Regarding wicking and coil diameter I am only just getting myself familiar with the Merlin since they arrived only yesterday. The only issue I have found is kinda opposite to yours...if you have too much cotton too deep into the juice wells you won't see bubbles and are on the way to dry hit City!
I'm using some 3 mm ID Clapton and Tidal wires in mine with plenty of fluffy cotton. Works well so far.
The afc seems a bit loose on the 2 I got which are from STS and from the 1st batch, but there is no issue thus far.

I put a ready-made SS Clapton in mine which had either a 3.5 or 4.0mm interior diameter. Don't have the exact ohms (somewhere in the 0.2-0.3+ range)/wire thickness info (it's either 26/32 or 24/32 AWG), as I'm at work right now. BTW, I am using one upper wire hole on one side of the deck and the lower wire hole on the other side of the deck, so my coil is basically centered on the posts.
 

Jim-

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With a couple of quick modifications I've have found this to be an excellent MTL tank. I am partial to a very tight draw and was able to obtain it by placing a 1/4" 2.0mm 26 Guage coil inside the airflow insert plug then screwing it into the deck. I then took a thick piece a clear tape and placed it over the base of the tank. Used an exacto knife to cut a hole around the 510 post and trimmed the tape flush with outer wall of the base. The tape further restricts air flowing out of the base of the air flow control ring and can fill some of the gap between the mod some folks have had (I've actually gone to 2 layers of tape for durability and gap reduction). The draw and flavor now are superior to any of my kayfuns or squapes I normally use. Just passing this along to the MTL folks who may have found it still too airy with the MTL insert already in.


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MMW

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With a couple of quick modifications I've have found this to be an excellent MTL tank. I am partial to a very tight draw and was able to obtain it by placing a 1/4" 2.0mm 26 Guage coil inside the airflow insert plug then screwing Into the deck. I then took a thick piece a clear tape and placed it over the base of the tank. Used an exacto knife to cut a hole around the 510 post and trimmed the tape flush with outter wall of the base. The tape further restricts air flowing out of the base of the air flow control ring and can fill some of the gap between the mod some folks have had. The draw and flavor now are superior to any of my kayfuns or squapes I normally use. Just passing this along to the MTL folks who may have found it still too airy with the MTL insert already in.


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Nice work Jim! So the afc is totally closed?
 

Jim-

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Nice work Jim! So the afc is totally closed?

Been fine tuning it a bit and actually leaving about an 1/8" open on the AFC ring.


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Oh forgot to add, I'm using a Kayfun mini V3 drip tip as well.
 

ccwaters

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Yeah, I do expect quality when I spend money. That you don't does not excuse any manufacturer from shipping quality merchandise.

We all do, and "most" of us know how to go about getting issues fixed the correct way.


And it is his fault how? Because he was born there? Doesn't excuse poor quality.

My reference had absolutely NOTHING to do with quality, and everything to do with cost, guess you missed that.


Ah, I see. If he had a better attitude, then you'd support him. Doesn't matter where it was bought, why should the retailer pay the costs? Should they inspect every package to see if it can ship or be binned? Contact Roxy? Why?

Personally I'd tell him to ^%&^ off. The retail vendor typically has an easier time dealing with issues, especially if it is quality control issue on a larger scale, many here who had issues, including myself had a stand up vendor take care of the issues.


Mine was replaced when I received a bad one. Your recall is incomplete.
I don't doubt yours was replaced, others weren't so lucky.


Again, why would I contact someone who does not make the device nor sell it. Where is Roxy? How do you contact her since you think that is a support avenue?

Well a simple polite post here that you need some assistance dealing with an issue with the Merlin probably would have been a great start. Since you seemingly don't even have a clue who Roxynoodle is her name is on the bottom of the Merlin. While she is not a paid employee of Augvape she is a rather key element of the support side. Again a simple polite question could have easily led you to this path.



A shining example of "You don't like what I like so you are foolish". You have no point except, well, none that I can find.

Not even worth the effort......

I was trying to stay out of this and read along without taking further part

suuurrrrreeee....



Felt it was important to share the smoking gun, i got a response to my ticket at FastTech, the first response out of anyone i reported the issue to btw...AugVape will talk to FastTech, but not me....

DfQsCsJ.jpg


Apparently AugVape doesnt class the long pin as a feature as they told FastTech they want proof of the defect before rma'ing it....

OMG, Smoking gun, really??

Just WOW... Seems I got the SAME smoking gun nearly a year ago on something entirely different. OHHH, wait, If I dig back through my FT tickets I have a few of these "smoking guns"

How could this be? I'd never have even considered they might just send out a canned cut & paste response. I'm sooo let down by FT CSR :facepalm:

UPtAR4u.jpg
 
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RandyF

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Just got my Merlin the other day, been using strictly STm's for a while now. After a couple days with it, I have to say, it is a pretty good RTA.

As someone said earlier in this thread, adjustable juice flow needs to disappear, just adds a complexity to the tank that isn't really necessary. I am a M2L guy and this one is a bit on the airy side. Even with the AF ring fully closed it is still a bit airy, but right about at where I personally like it, but fully closed it should have next to zero AF. Having said that, this is probably the smoothest airflow I have experienced with an RTA. Not even a hint of a whistle to be heard.

As far as wicking, I did it the same as I would my STm and I have had zero problems. Just enough wick to get to the bottom of the channel and cover the holes, been wicking great and no leaks (even after top filling). Like I said though, I am a M2L vaper using SS with TC, so I'm not heating juice off the wick like others might.

I have found it a bit challenging to get the top cap off to refill without unscrewing the entire top piece. The knurling for the top cap is a bit thin, and the piece that holds the glass in place is even thinner. would be nice if they were the same width and both had knurling. Would be great to see the juice flow ring go away and moved to the ring below the top cap, that hold the glass in place.

The deck.....perfection, and the addition of the insert to restrict the airflow, brilliant. You should make a 2mm, 1.5mm and 1mm inset as well. I think that would be an easy fix the "too airy" comments. I would have no problem paying a few bucks for a set of inserts.

All in all, good RTA, may replace my STm's. I don't fully trust it yet, not enough time with it, but definitely a nice piece of work.
 

tmcase

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With a couple of quick modifications I've have found this to be an excellent MTL tank. I am partial to a very tight draw and was able to obtain it by placing a 1/4" 2.0mm 26 Guage coil inside the airflow insert plug then screwing Into the deck. I then took a thick piece a clear tape and placed it over the base of the tank. Used an exacto knife to cut a hole around the 510 post and trimmed the tape flush with outter wall of the base. The tape further restricts air flowing out of the base of the air flow control ring and can fill some of the gap between the mod some folks have had. The draw and flavor now are superior to any of my kayfuns or squapes I normally use. Just passing this along to the MTL folks who may have found it still too airy with the MTL insert already in.


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I've thought about doing something like what you did, putting a coil in the reducer but was afraid that it might fall out and not be able to get it out again. I take it that it is a very tight fit?
 
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dshuld

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Just got my Merlin the other day, been using strictly STm's for a while now. After a couple days with it, I have to say, it is a pretty good RTA.

As someone said earlier in this thread, adjustable juice flow needs to disappear, just adds a complexity to the tank that isn't really necessary. I am a M2L guy and this one is a bit on the airy side. Even with the AF ring fully closed it is still a bit airy, but right about at where I personally like it, but fully closed it should have next to zero AF. Having said that, this is probably the smoothest airflow I have experienced with an RTA. Not even a hint of a whistle to be heard.

As far as wicking, I did it the same as I would my STm and I have had zero problems. Just enough wick to get to the bottom of the channel and cover the holes, been wicking great and no leaks (even after top filling). Like I said though, I am a M2L vaper using SS with TC, so I'm not heating juice off the wick like others might.

I have found it a bit challenging to get the top cap off to refill without unscrewing the entire top piece. The knurling for the top cap is a bit thin, and the piece that holds the glass in place is even thinner. would be nice if they were the same width and both had knurling. Would be great to see the juice flow ring go away and moved to the ring below the top cap, that hold the glass in place.

The deck.....perfection, and the addition of the insert to restrict the airflow, brilliant. You should make a 2mm, 1.5mm and 1mm inset as well. I think that would be an easy fix the "too airy" comments. I would have no problem paying a few bucks for a set of inserts.

All in all, good RTA, may replace my STm's. I don't fully trust it yet, not enough time with it, but definitely a nice piece of work.
Easiest way I've found to get the top off when refilling is just hold the glass rather then the thin ring. I use thumb and pointer with pressure from the top going over the edge in a manner to grip the knurling and top of the top at the same time.

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tmcase

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I have found it a bit challenging to get the top cap off to refill without unscrewing the entire top piece. The knurling for the top cap is a bit thin, and the piece that holds the glass in place is even thinner.

I had this problem with my first Merlin. What I did was screw the ring that holds the tank really tight and then when I refill, I only snug the top cap down. This has worked just fine on all 5 of mine.

You should make a 2mm, 1.5mm and 1mm inset as well. I think that would be an easy fix the "too airy" comments. I would have no problem paying a few bucks for a set of inserts.

Excellent idea. I would pay for that also. :)
 
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MMW

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Easiest way I've found to get the top off when refilling is just hold the glass rather then the thin ring. I use thumb and pointer with pressure from the top going over the edge in a manner to grip the knurling and top of the top at the same time.

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Elegant and sophisticated.... graceful even.

6za93l.jpg
 
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