Microcoil and cotton balls on Penelope

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yankeebobo

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Looks good Bo, I've been running the Ody same way now for 3 days and it's working like clockwork. Not a single dry hit, thick clouds and heaps of flavor. I'm so impressed I opened it up today on day 3 to check what the cotton looks like and it's not even showing signs of being burnt. Looks just like it did when I set it up.

PS I too caught the negative under the ring, makes for a much more secure connection


Exactly. Ody and penny can have neg wire easily between silica or cotton yarn and the metal channel. With micro and cotton, this method just is a lot more secure for my taste than under the housing.
 

yankeebobo

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O k. I got the dual going on ithaka. Flavor is amazing. But.... I can't vape it. I am not enjoying it one bit. And it's a refresher as to why I dislike parallel coils. (I actually had a feeling that if I didn't like dual in parallel, the wicking material wouldn't matter). The air path is clear and travels up between the coils. So ithaka will remain a dual coil on cotton yarn with the X formation.

With that said, it would be damn easy to swap out the cotton.
 

fright88

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O k. I got the dual going on ithaka. Flavor is amazing. But.... I can't vape it. I am not enjoying it one bit. And it's a refresher as to why I dislike parallel coils. (I actually had a feeling that if I didn't like dual in parallel, the wicking material wouldn't matter). The air path is clear and travels up between the coils. So ithaka will remain a dual coil on cotton yarn with the X formation.

With that said, it would be damn easy to swap out the cotton.

are the spaced coils durable enough to thread the yarn through them? I've been toying with dual cotton in parallel but was afraid I would dislike it.
 

yankeebobo

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Yes you could thread some cotton yarn through the coil. It doesn't change the fact for ME that I dislike the parallel. But I'm fairness to my taste I didn't care for parallel from the second day of ithaka. I've latched on to the X and the airflow hits the coils straight on. Only parallel I do is triple cotton yarn but it's so fat it closes that sharpness.
 

LongDraw

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I know I am pretty far behind, so forgive my ignorance. I would love to start trapping my negative wire for my ody, really frustrating when I get the occasional wandering ohms.

When you trap the negative wire to you do it between the ring and base? Or, do you trap in in the threads with the ring? Wondered if it was trapped in the threads if this could affect the threads in time. I'd be doing this on gg bases and 510 bases.
 

fright88

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I know I am pretty far behind, so forgive my ignorance. I would love to start trapping my negative wire for my ody, really frustrating when I get the occasional wandering ohms.

When you trap the negative wire to you do it between the ring and base? Or, do you trap in in the threads with the ring? Wondered if it was trapped in the threads if this could affect the threads in time. I'd be doing this on gg bases and 510 bases.

Between the base and the ring. I like to do 1 complete wrap around the ceramic housing although it isn't required.
 

yankeebobo

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I have 3 methods.
1. Just cut and let the wick hold it against the metal channel.
2. Run the wire down to the base of the rebuildable and make a SHARP turn under the rebuildable. Cut to trim and use a screwdriver to crease the wire. Almost hooking against the base.
3. What I find most secure, especially for cotton and micros to be able to remove the cotton without disrupting, trap between ring and base. But I like the NR to be in the thinner side.

I do not go in the threads. Not me. I don't know if anyone else does. But damage to thread can't occur at all if you don't even push that envelope.
 

LongDraw

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Thanks guys. That's what I was thinking, thought it was in a thread sometime ago where I saw it get trapped in the threads and figured that would not be good long term.

I may have to fuse a wire or two with some 32 gauge, thinking 30 gauge may be a little to thick for nr wire and trapping between the ring and base. Ever any leaking?

If this works for me would definitely be willing to give cotton a try since it would be easy to pull the wick and dry burn rather than completely rebuild.

Between the base and the ring. I like to do 1 complete wrap around the ceramic housing although it isn't required.

I have 3 methods.
1. Just cut and let the wick hold it against the metal channel.
2. Run the wire down to the base of the rebuildable and make a SHARP turn under the rebuildable. Cut to trim and use a screwdriver to crease the wire. Almost hooking against the base.
3. What I find most secure, especially for cotton and micros to be able to remove the cotton without disrupting, trap between ring and base. But I like the NR to be in the thinner side.

I do not go in the threads. Not me. I don't know if anyone else does. But damage to thread can't occur at all if you don't even push that envelope.
 

dspin

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Delish. Ody drip. 1.5ohms. Ran out of time to tackle the dual in ithaka.

tupemagu.jpg




Excellent series of pics Yankee - I just sent those out to several people who wanted pics of microcoils for GG atties
 

Sad Society

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I've tried my hand at micro coils on the Penelope, and with using cotton (from cotton balls). The problem I have is the cotton doesn't last very long, maybe a week at most. Also it takes too long for the coil to heat up. Is there any solution for this?

I'm using a Vamo V2 with the Penelope and I like using 32g because it heats up faster. I have 30g, and 28g that doesn't see much action because of the problem of having the coils taking too long to heat up.

I can get around the cotton not lasting long, but the coils for 30g and 28g (especially 28g) not heating up fast enough bugs me. Could it be the mod I'm using?
 

Aal_

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I've tried my hand at micro coils on the Penelope, and with using cotton (from cotton balls). The problem I have is the cotton doesn't last very long, maybe a week at most. Also it takes too long for the coil to heat up. Is there any solution for this?

I'm using a Vamo V2 with the Penelope and I like using 32g because it heats up faster. I have 30g, and 28g that doesn't see much action because of the problem of having the coils taking too long to heat up.

I can get around the cotton not lasting long, but the coils for 30g and 28g (especially 28g) not heating up fast enough bugs me. Could it be the mod I'm using?

It might be something wrong with your coil build. remove the cotton and fire the coil. Do you see it lighting up in the middle first then to the 2 sides? If yes then your microcoil is fine. If no you need to make it tighter.

Now regarding the diameter of the microcoil, you did not specify the size and the number of wraps you did. For example right now, I am running a microcoil in my ithaka 28 guage, with 1.4mm diameter, that gave me 1.5 ohms with 11 wraps. Running it on Vamo at 10 watts with no problem in heating time. When you go smaller diameter you have more wraps. When you have more wraps you have bigger surface of contact and faster heat up time since in a microcoil, coils heat each other.

32 gauge wire is an overkill. You wouldn't have good results unless you make diameter 1mm to have enough wraps with low resistance.

Regarding cotton. It all depends on the liquid. Also if there are gaps in the coil, you will have more gunk stuck in between the wraps.
 

fright88

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this is the coil i am running. It is black because of liquid, but flavor is full and cotton still going strong. I have coiled it yesterday.







BTW I was expecting some flooding or gurgling because it is very small. But it is a perfect vape with lots of airflow :D:D

Are you putting something in the other channel?
 

Aal_

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Are you putting something in the other channel?

It doesn't show but in the other channel, remaining of the cotton from the first channel overlaps to the other channel. I was meaning to put strand in each channel, but with the coil diameter cotton had to be very light, and it was a pain to divide it into 2. so it just covers 2 channels after the top. Just did it to block the channel from flooding. Wicking is a beast with cotton. And by the way you can overlay cotton on both channels (if thin of course) and the the screwing of the mouthpiece clean it for you :D
 
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